The wines of Chianti Rufina DOCG and its Terraelectae schema

Chianti Rufina DOCG, as a subzone of Chianti DOCG, is qualified to produce any of the wines allowed in the appelation.

 

Screenshot from consorziovini.it

The purpose herein is not to explore those broader wines. Rather, it is to explore the wines that are unique to Chianti Rufina.  A wine is a Chianti Rufina DOCG on the basis of the physical environment and its adherence to/attainment of the specified production disciplines. I have reported on the physical environment in a previous post and will cover the built environment, the production requirements, and the wines herein.

Chianti DOCG is an appellation built on a Sangiovese foundation; and the same holds true for Chianti Rufina DOCG. The fundamental wine of the region is some mix of Sangiovese (> 70%), approved varieties (< 30%), white grapes (< 10%), and Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc (< 15%). A listing of the varieties grown in the appellation is shown below.

There are a total of 22 producers of Chianti Rufino DOCG wines and, according to the Consorzio, 20 of those are members of the association. The map below shows the producers and their distribution across the region.

Chianti Rufino map with producers

While ownerships have changed over time (for the most part), a fair number of these locations have been in the grape-growing business for a minute. For example, grapes have been grown at the Selvapiano location since 1826, at Colognole since 1892, at I Veroni since 1585, etc. Notwithstanding the traditional ages of these estates, they are not hidebound, as almost 50% of the producers are either certified organic or are farming according to organic principles. It should be noted that many of these estates are large, with vineyard space accounting for relatively small shares of the surface area.

The table below illustrates the scope of Chianti Rufina DOCG wines.

Beginning with the 2018 vintage, the Chianti Rufino producers introduced a new tier of wine with the nomenclature Terraelectae, a collective mark of the Consorzia and the associated wine. The wine — requirements illustrated in the table above — was created to "eloquently express the finest qualities of Sangiovese in Tuscany.”

The producers had been exploring ways to achieve a more precise representation of their territorial uniqueness and decided that the way forward was to select their finest quality vineyards exclusively dedicated to Sangiovese — one cru per winery — to produce a wine named after that vineyard. The initial vintage was 2018 with ten participating producers. An additional two producers opted to wait until the 2019 or 2020 vintages to provide their offerings.

Writing in Decanter (Chianti Rufina ups its game with Terraelectae, 11/30/22). Michael Apstein stated that all of the 2018s showed very well. Those initial wines are illustrated below.

Apstein: “If the wines remain high-quality and a unique expression of Sangiovese reflecting the distinctive terroir of Chianti Rufina, the Terraelectae moniker on the label will be useful to customers.”

Writing in Terroir Sense Wine Review (The Magnificent 2019 Chianti Rufina Terraelectae Wine, 4/20/23), Ian D’Agata writes thusly about the sophomore edition of the wines: “I have no recollection of having ever, and I mean ever, tasted a similarly impressive set of new wines such as these 2019 Chianti Rufina Terraelectae wines.”

This is a forceful validation of the Chianti Rufina top-end wine direction from a force within the industry.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Sangiovese terroirs: Chianti Rufina

Chianti DOCG is a large wine zone spreading, as it does, over 15,000 ha and seven subzones in the heart of Tuscany. With a zone of this size, quality is bound to vary between producers and subzones and producers will engage in both intra- and inter-zone competition. For Chianti producers, this competition will extend to include Chianti Classico. 

Such is the case for the producers in Chianti Rufina, the smallest (12,453 ha) of the Chianti subzones.

Map of Chianti wine region with Chianti Rufina
enclosed within the red circle (Map sourced from
chianti.chianti.net)

Chianti Rufina detail with districts indicated
by orange circles (Source: chiantirufina.com)

Chianti Rufina is a source of well-regarded, high-altitude Sangiovese wines which punch above their weight in the market. According to Ian D'Agata, the region's wines:

... range from the sleek, steely, mineral and highly perfumed to the slightly plumper and richer; but to be clear, for the most part, Rufina's are Chiantis that are generally much more penetrating and lifted than any other Chianti or Chianti Classico wine.

Chianti Rufina has taken a step to stay abreast of Chianti Classico's top-level wine initiative (Gran Selezione) by introducing its own elevated-quality wine, Terraelectae. The high regard in which this region is held, and its fledgling initiative, dictate a deep dive on my part. I begin herein with the physical characteristics of the subregion.

History

Vine cultivation and wine-making in what is today’s Chianti Rufina region stretches back to Etruscan times. More recently, land records from 1401 attest to the presence of vineyards at Nipozzano. A document dating to the 15th century — the Statutes of the County of Turicchi, as approved by Messer Leonardo Salutati, the Bishop of Fiesole — records the penalties to be assessed in the event of vineyard fires.

The further history of vine growing in Chianti Rufina most likely mirrors the history of the broader Chianti as I have described it here (broader Tuscany in the 14th century), here (Chianti, 15th to 19th century) and here (Chianti, 20th century).

The first demarcation of the area occurred in the 18th century when Cosimo III, Grand Duke of Tuscany, issued an edict on September 24, 1716, which declared the boundaries of four areas in Tuscany — Chianti, Pomino, Carmagno, and Val d’Arno di Sopra — in which the production and trade of wine "… was subject to regulation and control by the authorities.”

The demarcation of Chianti Rufino was further enshrined in a 1932 Italian Ministerial Decree which established the territorial limits of Chianti and defined the various sub-regions, inclusive of Rufino. Chianti Rufino attained DOC status in 1967 and DOCG status in 1984.

Climate

Chianti Rufino experiences hot summers, with average temperatures ranging between 22℃ and 23℃, and cold and moderately rainy winters. The average winter temperature ranges between 4℃ and 6℃. The average annual rainfall is between 900 and 1150 mm with a summer minimum, the main maximum in autumn, and a secondary maximum between winter and spring. Snowfall is relatively rare.

The region has a temperate sub-coastal climate, according to the Koeppin classification system (revised by Pinna for the Italian area):

• Average annual temperature between 10℃ and 14.4℃
• Average of the coldest month ranges between 4℃ and 5.9℃
• Three months (June, July, August) with average temperature > 20℃
• Annual temperature range: 16℃ - 19℃. 

The characteristic climate of Chianti Rufina is the result of a combination of factors (Consorzio):

• Latitudinal factors
• Orographic factors (slope, exposure, position)
• The Mediterranean — source of masses of humid and mild air in all seasons 
• The Atlantic Ocean — source of moist air masses and relatively mild (polar maritime) air that is colder than the Mediterranean with resulting perturbations causing frontal and vortex systems that are particularly frequent from autumn to spring
• The Eurasian landmass — source of continental polar air masses, particularly cold and dry in the winter
• The Arctic — source of cold air masses all seasons
• The subtropical belt — source of torrid air masses which heat up and gain humidity as they pass over the Mediterranean.

As a part of its zonation study, the Consorzio arrived at the following conclusions vis a vis the Chianti Rufina climate:

• … climate that in general can be defined as a warm temperate climate with a dry, hot summer
• … conclude that the agroclimatic characteristics of the wine-growing area of Chianti Rufina make it a territory suited for quality viticulture
• … the analysis of climatic resources shows excellent levers of radiative and thermal resources and rainfall , which are placed on values similar to those found in the best wine-growing areas in Italy and worldwide
• Furthermore, the risk analysis of critical meteorological events for wine production (low winter temperatures, late frosts, high summer temperatures, precipitation in the pre-harvest period, drought) shows that the risk levels do not appear particularly relevant or in any case they are placed such as not to jeopardize viticulture.

Geology and Soils

The Chianti Rufina zonation study sought to identify the physical characteristics of the subregion and map those to vineyard characteristics in order to determine the optimal locations for allowed varieties. I have reported on the climatic findings of the study in a previous section and turn now to the terrestrial aspects.

The chart below shows the elevations within the Chianti Rufina area. As a result of the region’s location on the slopes of the Tuscan-Romagnola Apennines, growing zone elevations can reach as high as 700 m.

Altitude ranges in Chianti Rufina (Source: chiantirufina.com)

The results of the geological and soil aspects of the zonation study are presented in the chart below.

Key elements of the physical environment have been curated from the writings of Ian D’Agata and Chateau Monty:

• The average elevation across the growing zone is 350 m
• Altitude helps with the moderation of summer heat as well as facilitating thermal excursions — aids acid and aroma retention in as well as extending the ripening period
• Proximity to Arno and Sieve Rivers aids in moderation of summer heat
• Soils of limestone (in the area extending south to Dicomano); sand, galestro-albarese, marl, and marly clays in the south; marly silt and chaotic soils west of Pontassieve and Tigliano; and differential soils in Molino del Piano and Santa Brigida.

I will explore the built environment and the wines of Chianti Rufina in future posts.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Il Guercio and Uno from the Tenuta di Carleone estate (Radda in Chianti, Chianti Classico, Tuscany)

Tenuta Carleone di Castiglione, located in Chianti Classico's Radda in Chianti, is the fruit of the vision of an Austrian entrepreneur - Karl Egger -- and the winemaking skills and regional knowledge of an English expat -- Sean O' Callaghan.

Egger and his family were regular visitors to Chianti and eventually decided to start a winery. Towards that end he bought a 100-ha property comprised of wooded hills, small rivers, and fertile plains. For the winemaking effort he was put in touch with Sean O'Callaghan, who was, at the time, working with another producer in the area. The winery was launched in 2012.

The focus is Sangiovese and 7 ha of the estate has been set aside for growth of the variety. The vineyards sit on a mix of limestone, sandstone, and compacted shale soils. 

Sean's farming philosophy revolves around organic and biodynamic principles with most of the property organic; or in the process of being so. As regards winemaking, he is non-interventionist, opts for long macerations, and eschews fining and filtration.

The estate produces three 100% Sangiovese wines (Uno, Il Guercio, and Chianti Classico); one Sangiovese dominant wine (Due; 95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot); a Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend (Il Randagio); a 100% Alicante Bouschet (Tinto); and a Sangiovese Rosato.

I recently tasted the 2020 Il Guercio as well as the 2019 Uno. 

The Il Guercio is made from Sangiovese grapes sourced from the 700-m asl Mello vineyard in Gaiole in Chianti. Grapes are late-picked and fermented in steel and cement tanks with 20% whole bunches. The wine is macerated for 4 months and aged in steel and cement tanks for 12 months.

The wine had a complex nose with lifted aromatics. Beeswax, red and black pepper, green herbs, dark cherry, baking spices, and ginger. An altogether pleasing nose. Red cherries and a biting acidity courses down the spine of the palate to a spicy, persistent finish. Medium weight and whole-palate-engaging. Non-aggressive tannins. Youthful but not unpleasantly so. Boatloads of post-tannin promise.

The 2019 Uno showed very sweet red fruit, beeswax, lifted aromatics, forest floor, depth, vanilla, sawdust, fresh wood chips, red pepper, and a savoriness. Elegant. Acidity and red fruit on the palate. Broad. Persistent. Metallic, with green tannins. Long, woody finish.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Chianti Classico's Bibbiano: The longest-standing monument to the Sangiogenius of Giulio Gambelli

Vigna del Capannino, the primary Cru vineyard of Chianti Classico’s Bibbiano estate, is planted to Montalcino-origin Sangiovese grosso vines acquired in the 1950s with the assistance of the Sangiovese master Giulio Gambelli. 

The Bibbiano property dates back to 1089 but grape growing only came to the fore with its acquisition by the Marzi brothers in 1865. The Gambelli-Marzi relationship began in 1942 while the former was employed at the Enopolio in Poggibonsi. Gambelli was invited to go hunting at the estate with then owner Pier Tommasi Marzi, beginning a relationship that would redound to the benefit of the estate for many a year thereafter. Nesto and di Savino stipulate that Gambelli considered the Marzi relationship as the most consequential of his career.

Bibbiano has had two significant transformations in the post-war period, the first significantly influenced by Gambelli, the second led by Stefano Porciani.

Post-WWII, Marzi and his son-in-law Alfred Merroccheri embarked on a project to rebuild the vineyards and winery. They joined the Consorzi in 1948 and, between 1950 and 1970:

• Constructued a large wine cellar
• Planted 20 ha of specialized vineyards
• Planted 10 ha of olive groves
• Totally modernized the equipment.

Gambelli provided assistance while still employed at the Enopolio and Bibbiano subsequently became his first client when he left to become a consultant. He contributed to Bibbiano in terms of decisions on new systems, aging methods, and wine style and bouquet (He was also been responsible for procuring the Sangiovese grosso cuttings from Sant'Angelo Scala in Montalcino for the 1950s planting of the Capannino vineyard.). Gambelli's wine style called for traditional Chianti Classicos fermented in glass-lined, non-temperature-controlled cement vats and aged in Slavonian botti.

By 1999 Bibbiano was being managed by Tommaso and Federico Marzi and the vineyards were, according to Nesto and di Savino (Chianti Classico):

• Old and in need of replanting
• Many of the vines had died
• Some were so old that their production was too low from an economic point of view
• Others had been poorly trained and were too old to withstand the stress of retraining
• The remaining vines were so weak that they needed to be green-harvested twice so that the fruit could mature

The brothers called on Stefano Porciani for assistance in revamping the estate. Stefano had been the Technical Director of the Chianti Classico Consorzio from 1992 to 2001 and had managed the operation of the Consorzio's Chianti Classico 2000 project. With his base of knowledge accumulated from that project, he began replanting vineyards, with the Bibbiano Capannino vineyard the first in line.

Capinnino was not dissimilar to many Montalcino vineyards in terms of temperature (14 - 15.3 ℃), average rainfall (60 - 70 cm), exposure (southerly), and soil (clay-dominant), so the previously planted Sangiovese grosso was a good fit for the replantation. In 2009 the vineyard was planted with "the organic genetic material that Gambelli had selected in Montalcino." The rootstocks utilized were the clay-philic 775 and 779 Paulsen. Vine density was updated to 5000 vines/ha, the rest of the estate replanted, and an underground drainage system installed to round out the vineyard modernization. The entire project was completed in 2012. The current-day estate is illustrated in the chart below.

I recently tasted the 2016 vintages of the estate’s Gran Selezione wines made with grapes sourced from its two cru vineyards: Vigne de Montornello and Vigna del Capannino. Both of these wines are fermented over 33  days in cement vats, with délestage, aged for 12 months in French oak barrels, 12 months in Slavonian oak barrels, and 6 months in bottle. These wines still adhere to the Gambelli principles except that the cement vats are now temperature controlled and French oak barrels precede Slavonian oak barrels in the aging schema.

I tasted the two wines with the Orlando BBF tasting group and then at home the following evening.

The 2016 Montornello Gran Selezione showed sweet plum, wax, and a clayey note on the nose. Sour cherry on the palate, along with a balsamic note. Saline with a metallic note. Aggressive tannins. Long, sour, chalky finish.

The 2016 Vigna del Capannino Gran Selezione was elegant on the nose with sweet fruit, prominent hymenaea courbaril, which faded into the background with residence, richness, and neutral shoe polish. A full, round mouthfeel. Balanced. Silkier tannins than encountered in the Montornello. Juicy. Blackpepper-driven finish.

The cuttings for the Capannino vineyards were secured from Sant'Angelo in Montalcino, the subzone which Kerin O'Keefe identifies as the hottest and driest of the Montalcino subzones. In their book Chianti Classico, Nesto and di Savino identifies the west and southwest portions of Chianti Classico as being the warmest in that region and the Bibbiano location in Castellina places it squarely into warmer territory. These wines were good but did not exhibit head-turning complexity.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

The physical aspects of Sangiovese terroir: Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

Brunello di Montalcino, as is the case for fellow DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, falls fully within the boundary of Chianti’s Colle Sensei DOCG. That is not all that the two regions share; they are also both sources of high-quality Sangiovese wines. I have previously described the physical characteristics of  Vino Nobile de Montepulciano and will conduct a similar exploration of Brunello di Montalcino in this post.

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG’s wine production zone is largely coincident with the borders of the commune of the same name. The region extends over 2450 ha of a square-based hill whose lowest point is 150 m, rising to 630 m at its peak.

The climate is Mediterranean with moderating effects from the sea (40 km away), the surrounding rivers, elevation, and Mt Amiata to the southwest. The climate zones run from north to south. (According to Monty Waldin (Brunello: The many crus of Montalcino, Decanter, 3/19/15), 30 - 35% of Brunello is sourced from the cooler grounds north of the town (yielding paler Brunellos) with the remainder from the warmer south (darker colored, more overtly fruity, savory wines)). Precipitation occurs mostly in the spring and late autumn with average annual rainfall of 700 mm. There is potential for snow at elevations above 400 m. Steady winds allow for the growth of healthy vines while the presence of Mt Amiata to the southwest provides a barrier against storms and hail.

Landscape and Soils

The continued eastward movement of the Northern Apennines has resulted in the creation of a number of long (up to 200 km), narrow (up to 25 km wide), NE – SW-oriented structural depressions on the western side of the mountains in the Tuscany region. These depressions are bounded by normal faults along the margins and subdivided into basins by transfer zones/faults.

Source: Brogi, et al., 2013, Figure 1.

The Siena-Radacofani is one such basin (Past works have referred to them as two separate basins but recent scholarship have "highlighted a common structural evolution, with tectonic features extending from one basin to the other" (Martini and Aldinucci, November 2017).). It is bordered to its left by the pre-Neogene (pre-23 million years ago (mya)) bedrock of the Montalcino Ridge and the Neogene-Quaternary (23 mya to present) magmatic rocks of Mt. Amiata, and to its right by the pre-Neogene bedrock of Mt Cetona and the Cetona Ridge. 

The pre-Neogene rocks of the basin are primarily composed of two superimposed thrust units (Martini, et al.):

·       Tuscan Unit

o   Lower portions range in age from Triassic (252.2 mya) to Oligocene (33.9 mya)

o   Exposed rock consists primarily of shelf components and turbiditic, poorly cemented sandstones (Macigno)

·       Ligurides

o   Range in age from Cretaceous (146.5 mya) to Eocene (33.8 mya)

o   Consists primarily of basinal silaceous limestone and argillaceous limestone (marlstone).

Source: Martini, et al.

The Siena-Radicofani Basin began to form on the pre-Neogene substrates during the middle Miocene and “a thick sedimentary pile accumulated mainly during the early Pliocene." The turbiditic sandstone associated with the Tuscan Unit of pre-Neogene rocks appears to be the major contributor of sand for the basin. Other substrate rocks contributed pebbles, limestone cobbles, metamorphic detritus, and some sand.

The basin emerged toward the end of the Early Pliocene and, after a general uplift, no younger sedimentary record is apparent. Magmatism has affected the southern portion since the early Pliocene and volcanic eruptions occurred during the Pleistocene (1.8 mya – 10,000 years ago). The chart below shows the impact of post-Paleogene depositional activity on the Siena sub-basin and surrounds, to include, specifically, Montalcino.

The following charts display the soils composition in Colli Senesi and its major sub-zones. While Colli Senesi and Nobile di Montepulciano are dominated by marine sands, Brunello di Montalcino shows conglomerates as the major soil type while Chianti Classico shows marly limestone and marls and turbidites.

Source: Table 1, Bonini and Sani 2002

In an effort to gain an even finer definition of Brunello wines, a sub-zoning proposal (spearheaded by wine writer and educator Kerin O'Keefe) -- with the nomenclature and relative characteristics indicated in the chart below -- has been advanced.

But all hands are not on board with this proposal. According to Waldin, "Vineyards zoned in less highly regarded spots may be penalized by the media and then by the marketplace." In a blog post, Stefano Cinelli Colombini, owner and winemaker at Fattori dei Barbi, states that sub-zoning only works on paper, given the diversity in Montalcino vineyards. In a response to one of the comments on his post he notes that, in mapped areas, soil and geography stays constant but weather and things associated with humans are changeable. "You cannot make a reliable map of quality areas," he says. 

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Il Colle Brunello di Montalcino: Another Giulio Gambelli production

In my most recent post on the life of the famed Sangiovese expert Giulio Gambelli, I tagged Montalcino’s Il Colle as one of the Brunello producers— joining estates such as Case Basse, Cerbaiona, and Poggio di Sotto — fortunate enough to gain access to, and incorporate, his thoughts and practices into their winemaking efforts. 

Il Colle was founded in 1972 with Notary Alberti Carli’s purchase of the medieval house and 11 ha of land that had once been a part of the Conti Costanti Colle al Matrichese property (The property was split back in the 18th century as a result of family inheritance and divisions.). 

Upon purchase, Carli immediately planted 3 ha of Brunello and 2 ha of olive groves, producing the first vintage of Brunello in 1978. The estate has since grown to 8 ha of vines with the purchase of the 5-ha Localita Podernova dei Campi in Castelnuova dell’Abate. The vineyards are farmed organically. 

Alberto died in 2001 and his daughter Caterina has been managing the property ever since. 

The estate produces a Rosso and a Brunello, blends of grapes grown in both locations. The Brunello is a made from a careful selection of the best bunches from both vineyards. The fruit from the original vineyard (480 m elevation) provides elegance, freshness, floral notes, and minerality while the southeastern fruit (230 m) provides structure, power, and color.

Giulio Gambelli has guided the family’s winemaking efforts since 1981. According to Caterina:

Giulio Gambelli has been the guide and inspiration behind the vines I produce. The simplicity and naturalness of his way of living and working have always accompanied me along with the belief that making a good wine requires a few simple rules: hard work in the vineyard, time, passion, and cleanliness.

The “Gambellian” winemaking practices employed by the estate include indigenous yeasts, long maceration on the skins, aging in Slavonian botti, and no filtering. Kerin O’Keefe has described the resulting wine as “... graceful yet structured Brunellos” and a “ pure unfiltered expression of Sangiovese.”

2014 Il Colle Brunello di Montalcino

The 2014 growing season was very rainy across the entire peninsula of Italy and, according to Il Colle, slowed down the ripening until mid-June. Mild temperatures in July and August, and sunny skies in late September and early October, ensured high-quality fruit and "beautiful days of harvest." 

The wine was fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged for 48 months in 30- and 50-hL, fine-grained Slavonian oak barrels.

Popped and poured. Concentrated florality, ripe blackberries, oiliness, and intense spice notes initially. Elegant, sensuous, complex. Interweaving of spice and elegant yet concentrated fruit along with talcum powder and dried herbs.  

Low-intensity dark fruit on palate initially along with bright acidity. Medium weight. Balanced. With time, earthy/woody character and tannins which evolve through structured to chalky coating to a silky state. Fruit gains intensity on the palate as it attains a sour cherry character. Bitter note leads into a spicy finish. A lovely wine.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Giulio Gambelli and Tuscan Sangiovese: The view from Chianti Classico

I have long been beguiled by the life and work of Giulio Gambelli, the noted Sangiovese expert, but have only been able to capture snippets through writings on the websites of the wineries with which he was associated and an abbreviated treatment by Kerin O’Keefe in her Brunello di Montalcino. 

I have now been able to add to that meager knowledge base with information provided in a more robust treatment of Gambelli’s life and work in Nesto and di Savino’s Chianti Classico. Bill Nesto actually met and tasted with Gambelli in the 1990s and wrote an article about him back in 1999. The information on Gambelli provided in this post is drawn largely from the Nesto and di Savino characterization of this Tuscan treasure.

Nesto first met Gambelli in the Lilliano cellar in the fall of 1994. His nickname was Bicchierino, a name that he secretly detested. According to Nesto and di Savino, Bicchierino — little glass — had become associated with the family 150 years prior as a result of  his great-grandfather selling wine in little glasses in a family-owned Trattoria. The name was passed on to Gambelli by his great-grandfather.

Giulio was born in 1925 in Poggibonsi (Siena) where his family owned a tobacco and small-goods store. At 14 years of age, he signed on as a cellar worker at the Poggibonsi facility of the Enopolio of the Siena and Grosetto farm consortium. At that time, and during the subsequent war period, the Enopolio was one of the largest vinification and wine-storage facilities in Italy and its wines were considered the best in Chianti. Giulio’s initial work was confined to “menial jobs” and tasting the wines as they were moved from barrel to barrel.

On the left, a youthful Giulio (source: Screen grab
from i-wine review YouTube video); on the right, a 
more mature Giulio (source: igrandvini.it)

Tancredi Biondi Santi (Yes, that Tancredi Biondi Santi) served two stints as the Enopolio's Consulting Oenologist while Giulio was employed therein. The figure below shows the heft that Tancredi Biondi Santi brought to the Enopolio and what training with him meant for Giulio.

Not only did he learn about Sangiovese from a noteworthy oenologist, he also developed relationships with producers who would become consulting clients during his stint at the Enopolio and after he left in 1965 to go help with the family store. Giulio had become friendly with a number of producers and gave them free consulting advice as a favor. Giulio sold the store in 1972 and turned to freelance consulting to wineries on a full-time basis.

 

At this time Chianto Classico was "shifting from a pale, light, slightly fizzy wine in a fiasco to a more structured wine in a bottle." With the Biondi Santi training, Gambelli knew how to make such a wine and assisted a number of producers who were beginning to bottle their own wines. During the 1970s and 80s he developed as many as 80 clients and worked out of three offices in the Poggibonsi area. A partial list of his clients is provided in Table 1 below.

Table 1. Partial list of Gambelli clients (Source: Nesto and di Savino; author)

Clients from Enopolio Stint	Later Additions	Other Important Chianti Classico Clients	Late-Career Additions	Selected Montalcino Clients	Consorzio Clients
Brandini Marcolini (Rencine)	Lilliano	Ormanni	Rignana	Soldera (Case Basse)	Chianti Classico
Marzi (Bibbiano)	Pagliarese	Rodano	Porta di Vertine	Poggio di Sotto	Brunello di Montalcino
Gaggelli (Santedame)	San Felice	Straccali		Il Colle	San Gimignano
Lucherini (Villarosa)	Cacchiano	Lo Spugnaccio		Cerbaiona
	Fonterutoli	Villa a Sesta
	Manetti (Monvertine)	Colle ai Lecci

Giulio never had a payment structure and never billed a single client for work done. Nesto and di Savino point out that a number of his clients angsted as to how/how much/ when to pay him and his wife was always imploring him to seek payment for his services. 

Giulio would generally begin work in Montalcino, with each visit lasting approximately 30 minutes. After completing his rounds in Montalcino, he would drop in -- unannounced -- on his clients in Chianti Classico.

The below chart illustrates Gambelli's philosophy and techniques for producing high-quality Sangiovese wines. 

As shown, he was partial to oxygen contact during all phases of the production process. As Nesto and di Savino note, "these techniques ... can produce greater amounts of volatile acidity" but this did not much bother him as the resulting volatile smell, in his estimation, "was accompanied by a more supple taste and increased roundness." Fully developed, healthy skins and clean conditions, coupled with a vigorous and long maceration in air, produced the kind of structured wine that he appreciated. And that structure would allow the wine to age even in reduced-acidity conditions.

Giuliano Gambelli passed away on January 3, 2012, at the age of 86.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

The physical aspects of Sangiovese terroir: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Montecucco, and Morellino di Scansano

I am in the process of providing a comprehensive review of the Sangiovese variety and, to date, have written on the clones, and viticulture (broader Tuscany in the 14th century; Chianti, 15th to 19th century; Chianti, 20th century to present). As noted by BKwine, “Sangiovese is an impressionable grape variety that easily takes on characters from the specific soil or terroir ...” so, at this time, I will double back and examine the physical aspects (climate, soils, aspect, elevation, etc.) of the Sangiovese terroirs. 

In my discourses on Sangiovese viticulture, I concentrated mostly on the experiences in Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino. In this phase of the effort, I will expand the coverage to sample all of the major Sangiovese growing areas within Italy. 

Red ovals indicate regions
wherein Sangiovese grapes are 
grown and wine produced
(modification of a nicks.com.au
map)

Again, as per BKwine re Sangiovese, "... it is in Tuscany that it is most prominent and gets to (sic) most distinguished expression. This is where conditions are right to make really great and excellent wines ..." As such, I will begin this journey in Tuscany.

The primary Sangiovese wines in Tuscany are Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Chianti Classico DOCG, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, Chianti DOCG, Morellino di Scansano DOCG, and Montecucco DOC(G). In this post I will be covering Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Morelino di Scansano, and Montecucco.

Major Sangiovese-based wines in 
Tuscany (modification of a Winefolly
map)

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG

As shown in the map above, this region lies northeast of its fellow traveller Brunello di Montalcino. This region utilizes a Sangiovese variant called Prugnolo Gentile as the core of its wine, which is composed of > 70% Sangiovese, < 30% other approved red varieties, and < 5% of white varieties.

The region lies on a hilly ridge lying between Val di Chiana and Val d'Orcia with elevations ranging between 250 and 600 meters. 

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG

The climate is warm and more continental than its compatriots. It experiences significant rainfall with November being the month with the highest levels. Annual rainfall clocks in at 730 mm.

Unlike Montalcino and Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile de Montepulciano allowed a regional zonation study by the famed cartographer Alessandro Masnaghetti. The map is shown above. The zonation study identified 36 crus (11 in the north, 13 in the south, 2 shared between the north and south, 6 in the east, and 6 in the west) with primarily Pliocene soils in the north and south, Pleistocene soils in the east, and a mix of Pliocene, Pleistocene, and Mesozoic soils in the west. Elevations were from 250 to 430 m in the north, 270 to 420 m in the south, 260 to 330 m in the east and from 470 to 600 m in the west.

Chiara Giorleo (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano -- Toscana: a focus on the soil composition) differentiates between Pliocene and Pleistocene soils and their effects on the wine made from grapes grown thereon. Pliocene soils are marine sands and clays and are "thin, more mineral and calcareous, composed of calcareous sands." Sangiovese from these soils tend to be "more concentrated, with a deep color and a marked tannic structure ... in addition to red fruits it offers floral notes." Pleistocene soils are fluvial-lacustrine sands and clays and are deep soils with "more siliceous sands with calcium carbonate." Sangiovese from these soils are "less concentrated, with 'smoother' and silky tannins and hints that turn more easily towards riper red fruit, citrus and spices." The soils distribution are shown in the geological map below.

Montepulciano soils distribution
(Source: chiaragiorleo.com)

The best vineyard areas are at 300m on southeast facing slopes on clay and sandy soils in the towns of Argiano, Caggiole, Canneto, Casalte, and Valiano. 

Winemag describes the region's wines as having elegance and acidity along with body, tannin and structure. BBR cite them as having the richness of Brunello di Montalcino along with the perfume of Chianti Classico. These wines, further, are medium- to full-bodied with firm tannins, lively acidity accompanying fleshy strawberry and cherry fruit and hints of tea leaves.

Montecucco DOC and Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG

Montecucco is located on the south slopes of Mt Amiata, separated from the vines of Montalcino by the peaks of that long-dormant volcano. The region — located fully within the Maremma DOC, and sited between 50 and 500 m — attained DOC status in 1998 and gained a Sangiovese-focused DOCG in 2011.

Montecucco DOC and DOCG 
(Source: consorziomontecuccio.it)

Montecucco’s climate is typically Mediterranean with year-round drying, cleaning breezes blowing in from the Tyrrenhian Sea. These breezes, plus the altitude (for more elevated vineyards) serve as moderating forces against the summer heat while the mountainous peaks protect against winds from the north in colder months.

The soils are comprised of fertile clay along the Ombrone and Orcia rivers and poorer soils — with lots of stone, volcanic elements, and lava — at higher altitudes. Fractured sandstone can be found in areas approaching the sea. 

Campinuovi is a 7-ha estate located at elevations ranging between 350 and 465 meters. The soils in this small estate are rather varied (campinuovi.com):

• Sandstone-derived coarse-textured soils rich in organic matter
• Sandy clay soils formed on fluvial gravel and iron-rich conglomerates
• Sandy clay soils formed in fluvial gravel and calcareous conglomerates
• Silty clay soils
• Marl-derived clay soils.

The estate also benefits from the water flowing deep underground in transit between the mountains and the plain. Vine roots are able to access these water resources year-round.

The best wines from the region are produced in seven key villages: Cinigiani, Civiletta Paganino, Campagnatico, Castei del Piano, Roccalbegna, Arcidosso, and Seggiano. The Sangiovese wines are produced from the same Sangiovese type as in Brunello di Montalcino -- Sangiovese grosso -- and are configured as shown in the table below.

Table 1. Montecucco Wines.

Type		Montecucco DOC	Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG
Rosato		> 60% Sangiovese and/or Ciliegiolo
Rosso	Composition	> 60% Sangiovese + OANRG	> 90% Sangiovese + OANRG; 13% abv
	Aging	17 months	18 mos of which > 12 mos in barrel
Rosso Riserva	Composition	Same as Rosso	Same as Rosso
	Aging	18 mos in barrel, 6 mos in bottle	34 mos of which > 24 mos in barrel; 6 months in bottle; 13.5% abv

The wines from this region have been described as having "more pronounced flavors of black cherry and plum than in Montalcino" and being "deep structured wines offering excellent fruit and spice."

Morellino di Scansano DOCG

With the Tyrrhenian Sea in close proximity to its south, and bordered to its north by Montecucco, the subject zone falls fully within Maremma DOC. Vineyards are sited on southwest-facing slopes at elevations ranging between 300 and 500 m on the coastal range hugging the towns of Scansano and Maglione. The production zone encompasses the municipality of Scansano and parts of the municipalities of Grosseto, Magliano in Toscana, Campagnatico, Roccabegna, Semproniano, and Manciano. Sangiovese is called Morellino -- little dark one -- in this area.

The climate is Mediterranean with plenty of warm sunshine and refreshing sea breezes and is moderated by the winds blowing in off the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Albegna River. Diurnal temperature swings during the summer and autumn promote ripening and acid retention.

As noted above, "the vineyards are located on the hills and foothills which slope south from the north and the east towards the plain of Albinia and westward to the Tyrrhenian coast and the plain of Grosseto." The location affords protection from cold north winds while providing access to the temperate breezes from the sea.

The former swampland has two main types of soil: (i) relatively uniform sandstone in the western portion and (ii) limestone and clay to the east. Given its origins, it is rich in marine sediments. It is also relatively shallow, allowing the irregular emergence of rocky substrates. The soil in the hills is or volcanic origin.

This southernmost of the Sangiovese DOCGs is associated with ripe fruit and rounder and more savory wines than its more northerly brethren. The wines have a "lively freshness and crisp character" accompanying notes of cherry, pomegranate, plum, leather, cedar, and spice. The wines are not as full-bodied and tannic as Brunello and Vino Nobile; rather, they are "fragrant and graceful."

*******************************************************************************************************

I will continue this series on the physical aspects of Tuscan Sangiovese terroirs with an exploration into the Montalcino case.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme