The wines of Poderi Aldo Conterno at the Wine Watch White Truffle Dinner

I visited Poderi Aldo Conterno in Bussia in 2012 as a member of a Decanter Reader Team and was enthralled by its origin story, its holdings and practices, and its wines. The focus of our tasting on that trip was the estate's 2009 vintage. The Wine Watch White Truffle  Dinner, held at the new Wine Watch Wine Bar, offered me an opportunity to relive the tasting portion of my prior experience, this time with a focus on the 2013 vintage, and with Franco Conterno, eldest of the trio of brothers managing the estate, as the headliner, instead of Giacomo. I report on the tasting in this post.

The evening began with copiuos amounts of Lo Sparviere Franciacorta being poured in the bar area for attendees' pleasure. After the passage of some time, Andrew invited us to take our seats at the table set up in the southwestern corner of the bar.

All of the wines had been pre-poured and stationed at each attendee's position. Andrew introduced Franco and then turned the floor over to him. He also advised us to begin tasting the wines.

Franco gave a short presentation that was affected by the noise from the other sections of the bar. I was seated at the far end of the table and could not hear much. After I protested about the noise, Andrew walked over and asked them to tone it down (which, in fairness to them, is not what you expect to hear when you go to a bar. Andrew communicated with me by email as to how he expects to address this issue going forward.).

I began tasting the wines during Franco's presentation. First up was the 2013 Bussiador Chardonnay. I asked Franco about the 2013 vintage for this wine and he characterized it as a classic vintage for Chardonnay. It was cold with a lot of sun in the summer (great for ripeness and polyphenols, he said). There was enough water in the summer and September and October were pretty good. This produced a balanced wine with elegance.

The Chardonnay grapes are grown on 35- to 40-year old vines resident on 2.56 ha of the Chastain vineyard and, while the winery has the capacity for 30,000 bottles, they only vinify 6000 bottles.  The wine is placed in stainless steel tanks until the initiation of alcoholic fermentation when they are transferred to 100% new oak barriques for its completion and for malolactic fermentation.

A nuttiness on the nose. Beautiful feel on the palate. Walnut character and a slight salinity. Beautiful weight on the palate. Balanced and elegant with a lengthy finish. This is an absolutely beautiful representation of Chardonnay.

Two dishes book-ended Franco's presentation: A White Truffle dish done pancake style followed by a Ravioli with Herb Ricotta and Quail Egg. Both of these dishes were of extremely high quality.

The next wine tasted was the 2014 Conca Tre Pile Barbera d'Alba DOC. Grapes for this wine are sourced from Conca Tre Pile, "a hilly area in Bussia Soprano whose main vines are Barbera," said vines being a maximum of 45-years old. The wine is vinified in stainless steel and its first aging period is within those vats. It is transferred into oak casks for the final months of aging.

Red fruit on the nose with bright red fruit on the palate. An easy drinking wine with good concentration. Medium finish.

Next up was the 2013 Langhe Rosso. This is a blend of Freisa, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot sourced from various vineyards in Bussia. Like the Conca Tre Pile, this wine is vinified in stainless steel and then aged in a mix of stainless steel and oak casks.

Easy drinking. Bright, intense red fruit.

At this time the third dish was served, a pleasantly earthy, salty, almost-transparent Veal Carpaccio.

I next tasted the 2011 and 2013 Il Favot Langhe Nebbiolo DOC.  The grapes for this wine are sourced from 20-year-old vines from a number of vineyards in Bussia.  After hand harvesting, the crushed grapes are allowed to stay in contact with the skins in stainless steel tanks in order to increase the color and tannin levels in the finished wine. Vinification occurs in the stainless steel tanks where the wine remains for 6 months post-vinification.  The wines are transferred to 100% new oak barriques at the end of that six month period and will mature therein for another 18 months after which they are bottled.

The 2011 showed violets, tar, olives, earth and baking spices on the nose. Medium body with a definite savoriness on the palate. Medium finish  Similar characteristics on the 2013 though weightier and less developed.

Franco Conterno

The 2013 Barolo Bussia is made with grapes from 15- to 20-year-old vines drawn from a number of vineyards in Bussia. The grapes are fermented in stainless steel tanks and then transferred to oak casks for aging. A bit of a plum note to accompany tar, roses and licorice. Concentrated with a great mouthfeel. Beautiful wine.

The 2012 Colonello Barolo DOCG was made from grapes grown in the highest position in the namesake vineyard.  Bright red fruit, herbs, tar, and spices on the nose. Powerful red fruit. Textured.

The Granbussia Riserva DOCG is the flagship wine of the estate.  The 4950-bottle production is made from grapes drawn from the Cicala (15%), Colonello (15%), and Romirasco (70%) vineyards. These grapes are co-fermented in wood with 60 days of skin contact and spend another 32 months maturing prior to bottling.  The wine is stored for another 12 to 18 months after bottling.  We tasted the 1999 edition of this wine.

On the nose tar, roses, herbs and an earthiness.  Started off slightly tired on the palate but took wing after some time in the glass. Powerful, richness, and tar.  Long finish.

All in all, a pretty good tasting. I had not been to a Wine Watch tasting in a long while so I was excited to revisit as well as to meet one of my New York City tasting pals there. Andrew has been doing these events for a while and, as such, he knows his customer base and the producers that pass through. I privately gave him some of my thoughts on the event and he was gracious enough to respond in a detailed fashion.

Looking forward to future tastings at, and visits to, the brand new Wine Bar.


©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Tour and tasting at Poderi Aldo Conterno: Decanter's Great Piedmont Reader Weekend

We had just spent 5 hours with one of the most enthralling wine producers -- Angelo Gaja -- in the world and were now on our way to a tour and tasting with Gianfranco Conterno of Poderi Aldo Conterno.  His was going to be a tough job.  We were sated -- both gastronomically and mentally -- and our best bet would probably have been a crowning siesta.  But no.  We had a schedule and we were going to stick to it.  Gianfranco would have the task of bringing us along and keeping us focused on the present.

Poderi Aldo Conterno was founded when Aldo Conterno parted ways with his brother Giacomo shortly after the former's return from a 5-year stint in the US.  His time overseas had expanded Aldo's mindset while his brother, who had never spent any extended time away from the Langhe, remained loyal to the traditions of the region. Under the direction of the father, the brothers split the equipment and inventory, with Giovanni retaining ownership of the historical family cantina while Aldo went off and created today's Poderi Aldo Conterno.  Aldo focused on making wines which, while not modern, were less tannic and backward than was traditional.  He came to be known fondly as "the King of Barolo." Aldo Conterno died on May 30, 2012, leaving the winery to his sons Franco, Stefano, and Giacomo.

Poderi Aldo Conterno is located in Bussia, a village in Monforte d'Alba.  It is surrounded by 25 ha of vineyards at 400 meters altitude and with a south southwest aspect.  The soil is comprised of alternating layers of compact gray sand and white and blueish calcareous marls.

Used with Decanter's permission

In addition to the vineyard surrounding the Cantina, the Conterno family own three cru vineyards in Bussia: Romirasco, Cicala, and Colonello.  Romirasco -- located at 410 meters altitude on Soprano Hill -- has a SSW exposure and a clayey calcareous soil which is rich in calcium carbonate and iron.  The Nebbiolo vines in this vineyard are 50- to 55-years old.  The Cicala vineyard is located on concave slopes with southeast exposures. The soil profile is similar to Romirasco's except that it is browner in color.  The vines here are 50-years old.  The vines at the Colonello Vineyard are 35- to 40-years old.  All of these vineyards are farmed organically.

Giacomo with Decanter's brain trust (used with Decanter's permission)

Aldo Conterno has a 7000 square meter cellar with room for 1 million bottles.  They produced 250,000 bottles during the 1970s but but has reduced that number to 80,000 bottles today.  According to Giacomo, small production levels is the price that they have paid for going organic.  Alcoholic fermentation (with indigenous yeasts) occurs in stainless steel tanks (with the exception of the Granbussia which is fermented in large Slavonian oak casks) while the resulting wines are aged in large Slavonian oak casks -- Barolos -- or French oak barriques -- all other wines.  The Conterno wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered.

At the conclusion of the cellar tour we settled in for a tasting of the Conterno offerings. First up was the 2009 Bussiador Chardonnay Langhe B. DOC.  According to Giacomo, they were the first to think that Chardonnay would have the chance to flourish in Barolo. In his view, Chardonnay grown here expresses the minerality of the area.  The Chardonnay grapes are grown on 35- to 40-year old vines resident on 2.56 ha of the Chastain vineyard and, while the winery has the capacity for 30,000 bottles, they only vinify 6000 bottles.  The wine is placed in stainless steel tanks until the initiation of alcoholic fermentation when they are transferred to 100% new oak barriques for its completion and for malolactic fermentation.

On the nose minerality, sweet white flower, apple pear, rusticity, vanilla, and a hint of pineapple.  On the palate, clean, grapefruit, minerality, long finish with some heat. According to Giacomo, this wine should live on for 9 or 10 years.

The second wine tasted was the 2009 Il Favot Langhe Nebbiolo DOC.  The grapes for this wine are sourced from 20-year-old vines from a number of vineyards in Bussia.  After hand harvesting, the crushed grapes are allowed to stay in contact with the skins in stainless steel tanks in order to increase the color and tannin levels in the finished wine. Vinification occurs in the stainless steel tanks where the wine will remain for 6 months post-vinification.  The wines are transferred to 100% new oak barriques at the end of that six month period and will mature therein for another 18 months after which they are bottled.

On the nose violets, deep plum, sweet vanilla, turpentine.  On the palate spicy, rustic, fresh, plum, slight green characteristic.  Balanced.  Giacomo saw this wine as being ready in 3 to 4 years but with the stuffing to last up to 10 years.

The 2008 Colonello Barolo DOCG was made from grapes grown in the highest position in the namesake vineyard.  Giacomo saw this as being a classic vintage with harvest ending in the first week of November.  The must stayed in contact with the skin for 30 days.  After vinification the wine was racked a number of times before being transferred to large Slavonian oak casks for 29 months of aging.

Violets, plum, tar, and a hint of phenolics on the nose confirmed on the palate along with a spiciness.

The 2008 Cicala Barolo DOCG is treated in the same manner as was the Colonello. Violets, plum and tar on the nose with spice, freshness, coating minerality, and a blackpepper finish.  5500 bottles of this wine were produced.

The grapes for the 2008 Romirasco Barolo DOCG is sourced from the 3.8 ha vineyard of the same name.  This wine is aged an additional 2 months in oak casks relative to the wines from the other cru vineyards.  Dark cherry, licorice, and tar on the nose with an elegant long spicy finish.

The Granbussia Riserva DOCG is the flagship wine of the estate.  The 4950-bottle production is made from grapes drawn from the Cicala (15%), Colonello (15%), and Romirasco (70%) vineyards.  These grapes are co-fermented in wood with 60 days of skin contact and spends another 32 months maturing prior to bottling.  The wine is stored for another 12 to 18 months after bottling.  This wine was first introduced in 2005 and that was the vintage that we tasted.

On the nose tar, roses, violets, plum and figs.  On the palate richness, tar, graphite, freshness and elegance.  Long finish with some heat.

At the outset I said that we had presented Giacomo with a tall order given what had preceded him.  He came through.  The winery has a story to tell, having, as it does, such a storied pedigree and such excellent wines.  Giacomo himself was earnest and passionate and served as an excellent counterpoint to the whirlwind that had gone before.  Wonderful capper to a wonderful day.


©Wine -- Mise en abyme