In mid-November 2013, Wine Spectator delighted the hearts of all Spanish wine lovers (as well as the hearts of retailers who had the wine in stock) by naming the Cune Imperial Gran Reserva 2004 as its Wine of the Year. In speaking about the award in The European (Rioja's Cune Imperial is named wine of the year, 19 Novenber, 2013, www.the-european.eu), Maria Umatia, Marketing Director at CVNE, saw the award as being " ... not only good for Cune but for the region of Rioja and Spain as well." I checked in with a few members of the Rioja wine industry to see if they shared her sentiments and received valuable input from Manuel Muga, Manager at Bodegas Muga, Rodolfo Bastida, Director General, Bodegas Ramón Bilbao, and Amaya Cebrian, PR Manager, Bodegas LAN.
As is to be expected, the respondents heard the news of the award in a variety of ways. For example, Rodolfo heard about it through Twitter while Amaya read it when it was first published by Wine Spectator. If these respondents are representative of broad Rioja sentiments, then the euphoria that was experienced by Cune is pervasive. The overwhelming feeling is that this was a great recognition and vindication of Rioja -- specifically - and Spanish wine -- in general -- quality.
Riojan winemakers were going about their under-appreciated way, making what they had to feel was under-appreciated wine, when the Wine Spectator bolt from the blue struck. Maria, in my conversation with her, as well as in the European piece, admitted to surprise at the news. Our respondents were similarly -- pleasantly -- surprised. While surprised, Rodolfo had been noticing a trend towards the classic wine style, with better scores being awarded of late. Amaya expresed similar sentiments while noting that the classics from Rioja, and their quality-price relations, are "more and more valued by these experts."
I asked the respondents whether Cune's award would impact their operations in any way. Rodolfo saw no change in his future as a result of the award but hoped that, in the long term, they would be the beneficiaries of additional press attention. Amaya saw no impact on operations but hoped that the award would help bring attention to Bodegas LANs Gran Reserva. Manuel felt that giving the award to Cune made it easier for WS to place the Muga Reserva Seleccion Especial 2009 onto the Highly Recommended Wines list in the September 2013 issue of the magazine.
None of the respondents foresaw any change in the way they operate as a result of the award. Manuel saw it as being more motivational than anything else. "We will keep on doing what we do at the moment but with a little more motivation as we feel the international recognition for the region."
I queried the respondents as to whether this award placed any pressure on them; either as individuals or for their enterprise asa whole. No one felt that the award brought additional pressure beyond their normal goals and operating parameters. Rather than bringing pressure, the award, Manuel reiterated, was a "great recognition of the long background and the big quality of the wines" that Rioja has been producing for so many years. Amaya thought that some owners might say to their winemakers "I want one of those" but, she understated, "... this is not so easy ..."
The bottom line here is that everyone appears to be happy. "If not me, then let it be someone from my region. If not someone from my region, then let it be a Spanish wine." Each of the respondents had reached out to Cune to congratulate them on the award. Amaya and Rafael had sent congrats through Social Media and Rafael had supplemented this with a call to the winemaker. Manuel has spoken to various levels in Cune and has congratulated the Cune President "who we, of course, know well and appreciate."
In my conversations with Maria about how the award had been received in Rioja, Maria had said: "If I were in their place, I would be proud of a Rioja wine being top wine. I think that they feel that way." She had her colleagues pegged perfectly.
©Wine -- Mise en abyme
Showing posts with label Imperial Rioja Gran Reserva 2004. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Imperial Rioja Gran Reserva 2004. Show all posts
Wednesday, December 11, 2013
Tuesday, December 3, 2013
Cune's perspective on its Imperial Rioja Gran Reserva 2004 being named WS Wine of the Year
In mid-November 2013, Wine Spectator delighted the hearts of all Spanish wine lovers (as well as the hearts of retailers who had the wine in stock) by naming the Cune Imperial Gran Reserva 2004 as its Wine of the Year. Having just returned from a trip to Rioja -- a trip during which I visited and toured the Cune facilities in Haro -- I was curious as to whether the winery had perceived this wine as extraordinary prior to the acclaim and also wondered about their response to the news. In order to satisfy this curiosity I gained the approval of Maria Urrutia Ybarra to submit a number of questions for her e-mailed response. First, some background on Cune's Imperial.
As noted in a prior post, Imperial is one of many Cune labels but, according to Maria, it "has always been our flagship wine. It is a wine we only produce in vintages which are classified as excellent." The wine was first introduced in the 1920s and got its name after a special production for the English market in a bottle called the Imperial pint (approximately 1/2 liter). Grapes for the wine are sourced from Cune's 28-ha Villaba vineyard in Rioja Alta as well as selected vineyards in the neighboring communes of Briones and Montalvo. The Villaba vineyard is planted to 85% Tempranillo plus Graciano and Mazuelo. The rootstock is Richter-110 and the vines are hung on wires in rows that run northeast to southwest. The layout (i) maximizes the vines' exposure to sunlight, (ii) enables manual access to each vine, and (iii) positions the vines favorably vis a vis the strong, frequent north winds. Average vine age is 25+ years and average yield is 5000 kg/ha. Imperial wines are aged in American and French (30% today) oak barrels of approximately two years of age for a period of between 2 and 3 years. The Imperial blend is traditionally 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo.
Following are the questions to, and responses from, Maria. The material has been edited for clarity and flow.
From Cune's perspective, what are the outstanding characteristics of the Imperial Gran Reserva 2004?
Really the 2004 is as unique as the rest of Gran Reserva vintages. From generation to generation we have striven to make the best wine possible in each and every harvest.
What was special about 2004 as a vintage year?
The year 2004 was excellent with rain, cold and a hot summer. Let us say that it had all of the key factors to give birth to excellent quality grapes and, therefore, excellent wine.
How did the team feel about the Gran Reserva 2004 at the time of bottling? Was there any inkling at the time that the wine would attain these heights?
With all the wines we produce we always strive for the best quality and bet for an excellent result.
Was there any special processing or aging of this wine as opposed to previous or following vintages?
No.
How and when did you first know that the wine had been so honored?
We heard the news on Friday around 5 o'clock Spanish time. We were thrilled. We could not believe it. A friend from the U.S. called to inform us. He had seen it on TV.
What was your initial reaction?
Shock. Happiness. Joy. Amazement. Thrilled. Really no words can explain.
How was the information shared with staff and what was their reaction?
The information was shared straight away. This award is not only for a wine but for a whole tradition of producing wine where everyone has a hand in it. The reaction was joy.
Did your group celebrate? How?
It was Friday afternoon and most people had gone for the day. I did celebrate with my family, my dad, actual Chairman of CVNE, and my brothers. Our winemaking team was having lunch together to celebrate the end of harvest and they did a double celebration.
What was your perception of the worldwide response?
Amazing. In a few hours we had responses from everywhere. It was amazing how quickly this good news had spread.
Has things changed for the company since the announcement? How so?
Things have not changed. Now we have to focus on the fact that the award is not only great news for CVNE but for all the wines of Rioja. We have to try to communicate our history and our brand and make our wines known worldwide.
What do you see as the going-forward impact of this award on CVNE? On Rioja as a whole?
As I said before, from one generation to another, we have always worried about producing the best wine. The new generation added another concern to this (very short) list; to make our wines known across the world.
This is the first time that a Spanish winery has received this award. It is very unique. I think this recognition puts Spanish wines at a very top level worldwide.
CVNEs crest is, essentially, Spain's flag. Not an aristocrat's shield. Or a single person's signature. We are Spain's ambassador. And Imperial is the wine from Spain.
How did your fellow Rioja wine companies react to the announcement?
If I were in their place I would be proud of a Rioja wine being top wine. I think that they feel that way. This award helps Rioja, not just a winery.
Is CVNE going to be doing anything differently after receiving this award?
Different? Not really. We cannot relax. Now we have to continue producing excellent wines. We are a family business. My great grandparents left us a great legacy and we have to keep it and pass it on to the new generation.
**************************************************************************************************
Summarizing, Maria feels that the 2004 Imperial Gran Reserva is just as good as every Reserva they have ever made because their creed is to make the best wines possible every time. As a matter of fact, this recognition is really just the world catching up with what has been going on in Rioja for a very long time. She views the recognition as reflecting positively on Cune, of course, but also placing Rioja and Spain in the world's spotlight. While thrilled with the recognition of the great job that they have been doing, they will continue to function in the way that they always have, with the additional goal of making Cune wines known the world over.
I would like to express my gratitude to Maria and the Cune organization for being responsive to my request -- and in such a timely fashion -- especially given the end of harvest conditions as well as the hubbub around the Wine of the Year recognition.
I have solicited responses from selected Haro producers as to the meaning of the award from their perspectives and hope to report on that in the near future.
©Wine -- Mise en abyme
As noted in a prior post, Imperial is one of many Cune labels but, according to Maria, it "has always been our flagship wine. It is a wine we only produce in vintages which are classified as excellent." The wine was first introduced in the 1920s and got its name after a special production for the English market in a bottle called the Imperial pint (approximately 1/2 liter). Grapes for the wine are sourced from Cune's 28-ha Villaba vineyard in Rioja Alta as well as selected vineyards in the neighboring communes of Briones and Montalvo. The Villaba vineyard is planted to 85% Tempranillo plus Graciano and Mazuelo. The rootstock is Richter-110 and the vines are hung on wires in rows that run northeast to southwest. The layout (i) maximizes the vines' exposure to sunlight, (ii) enables manual access to each vine, and (iii) positions the vines favorably vis a vis the strong, frequent north winds. Average vine age is 25+ years and average yield is 5000 kg/ha. Imperial wines are aged in American and French (30% today) oak barrels of approximately two years of age for a period of between 2 and 3 years. The Imperial blend is traditionally 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo.
Following are the questions to, and responses from, Maria. The material has been edited for clarity and flow.
From Cune's perspective, what are the outstanding characteristics of the Imperial Gran Reserva 2004?
Really the 2004 is as unique as the rest of Gran Reserva vintages. From generation to generation we have striven to make the best wine possible in each and every harvest.
What was special about 2004 as a vintage year?
The year 2004 was excellent with rain, cold and a hot summer. Let us say that it had all of the key factors to give birth to excellent quality grapes and, therefore, excellent wine.
How did the team feel about the Gran Reserva 2004 at the time of bottling? Was there any inkling at the time that the wine would attain these heights?
With all the wines we produce we always strive for the best quality and bet for an excellent result.
Was there any special processing or aging of this wine as opposed to previous or following vintages?
No.
How and when did you first know that the wine had been so honored?
We heard the news on Friday around 5 o'clock Spanish time. We were thrilled. We could not believe it. A friend from the U.S. called to inform us. He had seen it on TV.
What was your initial reaction?
Shock. Happiness. Joy. Amazement. Thrilled. Really no words can explain.
How was the information shared with staff and what was their reaction?
The information was shared straight away. This award is not only for a wine but for a whole tradition of producing wine where everyone has a hand in it. The reaction was joy.
Did your group celebrate? How?
It was Friday afternoon and most people had gone for the day. I did celebrate with my family, my dad, actual Chairman of CVNE, and my brothers. Our winemaking team was having lunch together to celebrate the end of harvest and they did a double celebration.
What was your perception of the worldwide response?
Amazing. In a few hours we had responses from everywhere. It was amazing how quickly this good news had spread.
Has things changed for the company since the announcement? How so?
Things have not changed. Now we have to focus on the fact that the award is not only great news for CVNE but for all the wines of Rioja. We have to try to communicate our history and our brand and make our wines known worldwide.
What do you see as the going-forward impact of this award on CVNE? On Rioja as a whole?
As I said before, from one generation to another, we have always worried about producing the best wine. The new generation added another concern to this (very short) list; to make our wines known across the world.
This is the first time that a Spanish winery has received this award. It is very unique. I think this recognition puts Spanish wines at a very top level worldwide.
CVNEs crest is, essentially, Spain's flag. Not an aristocrat's shield. Or a single person's signature. We are Spain's ambassador. And Imperial is the wine from Spain.
How did your fellow Rioja wine companies react to the announcement?
If I were in their place I would be proud of a Rioja wine being top wine. I think that they feel that way. This award helps Rioja, not just a winery.
Is CVNE going to be doing anything differently after receiving this award?
Different? Not really. We cannot relax. Now we have to continue producing excellent wines. We are a family business. My great grandparents left us a great legacy and we have to keep it and pass it on to the new generation.
Summarizing, Maria feels that the 2004 Imperial Gran Reserva is just as good as every Reserva they have ever made because their creed is to make the best wines possible every time. As a matter of fact, this recognition is really just the world catching up with what has been going on in Rioja for a very long time. She views the recognition as reflecting positively on Cune, of course, but also placing Rioja and Spain in the world's spotlight. While thrilled with the recognition of the great job that they have been doing, they will continue to function in the way that they always have, with the additional goal of making Cune wines known the world over.
I would like to express my gratitude to Maria and the Cune organization for being responsive to my request -- and in such a timely fashion -- especially given the end of harvest conditions as well as the hubbub around the Wine of the Year recognition.
I have solicited responses from selected Haro producers as to the meaning of the award from their perspectives and hope to report on that in the near future.
©Wine -- Mise en abyme
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