Showing posts with label Maremma. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Maremma. Show all posts

Saturday, August 27, 2022

A tasting of selected Carpineto Tuscan wines

Kissimmee's Vintage Vino recently hosted a tasting of selected Carpineto wines and, while I was unable to attend in person, I bought the particular wines to taste at my leisure.

The Carpineto winery was founded in 1967 in Chianti Classico by Giovanni Carlo Sacchet and Antonio Carlo Zaccheo and has subsequently expanded to include holdings in other major Tuscan wine producing regions. The company "prides itself on its sustainable, carbon neutral farming techniques and ... aromatic, ageworthy, approachable ... wines."

Fruit for its wines are sourced from "500 ha of sustainably farmed land spread among 5 carbon neutral estates ..." The locations and characteristics of those estates are illustrated in the chart below.


The wines included in the tasting were as follows:
  • Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2016
  • Brunello di Montalcino 2016
  • Chianti Classico Riserva 2016
  • Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2015
  • Farnito Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
  • Molin Vecchio IGT 2012.
The Brunello di Montalcino was vinified with frequent pump-overs during a 15-day maceration period. The wine was aged in Slavonian oak for 3 years and an additional 6 months in bottle. This wine is complex on the nose with notes of violets, berries, and black pepper. Balanced on the palate with tar, curry, spice, and mint flavors accompanied by a stony minerality. A long, sweet finish.

The Vino Nobile de Montepulciano Riserva is primarily Sangiovese along with Canaiolo and other authorized varietals. The skin and must was macerated for 10 - 15 days with frequent pump-overs. The majority of the wine was aged for 2 years in 5500 L Slavonian oak barrels with a small component aged in French oak barrels. The wine was further aged in bottle for 6 - 8 months prior to release on the market.

Tobacco on the nose along with dark fruits, baking spices, rust, and mint. Black fruits, black pepper, and a savoriness. Great acid levels.


The grapes for the Gran Selezione were sourced from a 2-ha plot on the Dudda estate. Grapes were hand-selected and then vinified by indigenous yeasts in small stainless steel tanks. The wine was aged in French oak for 18 months. Red fruit, baking spices, licorice, and baked almonds on the nose. Balanced red fruit on the palate.


The Chianti Classico Riserva is primarily Sangiovese with contributions from Canaiolo and other red varieties. The wine is vinified with medium-duration maceration and then aged in Slavonian and French oak barrels for 12+ months. The wine is transferred into stainless steel tanks prior to bottling. 

Rich and layered on the nose, with notes of raspberry, vanilla, ripe fruit, and currants. Soft, full, round mouthfeel. A creaminess accompanies bright acidity and chewy tannins. Flavors of cherry, raspberry, and coal. A long, slightly bitter finish. Bright future. One of my favorites of the wines in this group.


The Farnito is made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes sourced from the Gaville and Montepulciano estates. The grapes were fermented in stainless steel tanks with 10 - 15 days of maceration and periodic pump-overs. The wines experienced full malolactic fermentation  before aging for 12 months in used French and American oak barriques. The wine spends an additional 8 months in bottle before it is released on the market. 

Elegant on the nose with aromas of violets, dark fruits, baking spices, mint, and a creaminess. Broad-based on the palate with black fruit flavors and tar preceding a green, herby finish.


Unlike the other wines, the Molin Vecchio is IGT; but it does not allow that fact to get in its way. Grapes are sourced from a Montepulciano vineyard that was planted in 1995 at 4464 vines/ha. Planted varieties include Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Colorino, and Merlot, all on 420A rootstock.

The wine is a blend of 80% Sangiovese clone A548, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon clone CL15, and 10% Syrah clone 470. The grapes were subjected to small-lot fermentation using indigenous yeasts. The must was macerated for 15 days with frequent aeration, pump-overs, and punch-downs. After malolactic fermentation the wine was aged in new French and American oak barrels for 12 months. The wine was racked and bottled unfiltered and then aged for an additional 4-5 months.

Black fruit, smoke, bacon fat, nutmeg, vanilla, and currants on the nose. Nose transits to the palate. Great weight with silky tannins and a long, rich finish.


Overall, a good lineup. I was especially pleased with the Chianti Classico Riserva and the Molin Vecchio.


©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Friday, May 13, 2011

Bolgheri DOC, home of the Super Tuscans

After our fabulous night at Enotecha Pinchiorri, we rendezvoused at our hotel's breakfast room to reflect on the brilliance of the previous night and to fortify ourselves with a solid food base before venturing out on a day of tastings.  Our entire day was going to be spent in Bolgheri.

Bolgheri, situated south of Livonia on the Ligurian coast, is part of the Maremma sub-region of the broader Tuscany wine region.  The Maremma sub-region is warmer overall than the rest of Tuscany resulting in a

                                    Source: http://www.wine-toscana.com/tuscany.htm

two-week-earlier harvest start than its regional counterparts.  Bolgheri (click here for a map of the DOC) experiences sunny, dry, and moderately windy conditions which allow the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes to ripen fully but with its exuberance restrained by the moderating influence of cool Mediterranean breezes.  The topography slopes gently from the base of the eastern hills to the sea and the highest-quality vineyards are concentrated in the foothills running between Bolgheri and Castagneto.  The hills protect the vineyards from the cold northern winter winds.  The vineyards are bathed in cool winds from the sea during the summertime and this, combined with a significant diurnal shift, causes  slow maturation of grape quality components and retention of high acidity.  There are approximately 1600 hectares under vine in the Bolgheri DOC today.

There is significant soil variation in the Bolgheri DOC: alluvial soils with round pebbles (ancient riverine deeposits); Aeolian sands, limestone, and clay (marine origin), and volcanic rock from the hills to the east.  The oldest alluvial deposits are found in the Hill zone, the area in which the pebbly, iron-rich Sassicaia vineyard is located.  The Intermediate zone has younger alluvial soils while the area closer to the sea consists of an alluvial-deposit and marine-deposit mix.

The first Bordeaux-style vineyards were planted in Bolgheri in 1944 by Marquis Mario Incisa della Rochetta who favored the wines of the Medoc and saw some similarity between the gravelly soils of the Medoc and Bolgheri.  After a period of experimentation, including maturing the wine in barriques in the French manner, the wine, the precursor of today's Sassicaia, was introduced to the market in 1968.  The wine flew below the radar until Hugh Johnson of Decanter arranged a tasting which featured Cabernet-based wines from France, the U.S, and Italy.  The relatively unknown Sassicaia stunned by besting the more established competitors.  Fame and fortune followed thereafter; as did other producers who jumped in to produce what was now being called "Super Tuscans."

These Super Tuscans, even though of high quality, and carrying hefty price tags, did not merit any higher than an IGT (table wine) designation in the Italian regulatory scheme because they were made from non-region-typical grapes.  This state of affairs was maintained until 1994 when a Bolgheri DOC was granted for non-traditional grapes and a Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC was granted for wines grown in the Sassicaia vineyard.  The following are included in the Bolgheri DOC:

  • Bianco
    • 20 - 70% of each of the following: TrebbianoToscana, Vermentino, or Sauvignon Blanc
    • Up to 30% of other authorized varietals
    • Released the Spring following harvest
    • Yields of 100 quintals/hectare allowed
  • Vermentino
    • 85% Vermentino
    • Released the Spring following harvest
    • Yields of 100 quintals/hectare allowed
  • Sauvignon Blanc
    • 85% Sauvignon Blanc
    • Released the Spring following harvest
    • Yields of 100 quintals/hectare allowed
  • Rosato
    • Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, other approved varietals
    • Released the Spring following harvest
    • 11.5% minimum alcohol
  • Rosso and Rosso Superiore
    • 10 - 80% Cabernet Sauvignon
    • Up to 70% Merlot
    • Up to 70% Sangiovese
    • Up to 30% of other authorized varietals
    • Rosso aged a minimum of 10 months; Superiore a minimum of 24 months, 12 in wood and 6 in bottle
    • Yields of 90 quintals/hectare for Rosso and 80 quintals/hectare for Superiore
    • 11.5% minimum alcohol for Rosso, 12.5% for Superiore
  • Sassicaia
    • Produced in Sassicaia subzone
    • Aged for 2 years, 18 months in barrique
    • Yields of 60 quintals/hectare allowed
    • 12% minimum alcohol
Some of the most acclaimed wines from Bolgheri include Sassicaia (Tenuta San Guido), Ornellaia (Tenuta dell'Ornellaia), Masseto (Tenuta dell'Ornellaia), and Messorio (Le Macchiole).