Dinner at Pesca, a highly recommended seafood restaurant in Amsterdam

My friend Erik Dorr, an Amsterdam native now living in the wilds of suburban Atlanta, had given me the names of three restaurants I should try while in Amsterdam. Of the three, I tried Pesca first, a self-identified "restaurant by Pescatarians, for Pescatarians." As detailed on the establishment's website, "... don't expect a traditional restaurant. We've changed the old rules: no menus or fancy tablecloths. It's all about the experience at the fish market." Now if you have never been to the restaurant, you would not know that this is a statement that is actually operationalized. But don't let me get ahead of myself; let's continue with the web-site statement: "As a guest, you're part of our concept and you get to pick your own fish and dishes." Truer words have never been spoken; but they are meaningless to the first time buyer.

When I arrived at the restaurant, the hostess asked if I had been there before. I said no. She then launched into a fuller description of what the website had alluded to. But first she gave me an unopened can of sardines on which she had written three numbers. My seat number, she said, and you will have to show this to the market folks so that they know where to deliver the food and wine items. I still don't get why the numbers were written on a can of sardines rather than a card of some type. I vaguely remember hearing her say that I could return the unopened can at the end of the night or I could keep it and pay an additional 5 euros. To that end it must be some type of charity initiative.

As she explained it, I would first go to one of the two "fish markets" that were situated against the wall opposite her and each of which was manned by a fishmonger? I would make my selections of the seafood items I wanted to consume that night, after which i would be taken to the wine market to make my selection. Notice there is no beer market. Or Gin market. I had to sit and wait as both of the fish market stations were serving other guests.

When one of the slots opened up I went over and begun a dialogue with my person. Arrayed behind him was a wide selection of seafood. As he explained it, I would select the items I wanted to eat, how I wanted it prepared (from a menu of preparation choices), and the sides. He would then weigh out the portions -- for pricing purposes --  and take this material to the chef to be prepared. I selected Oysters and Hamachi for cold appetizers, mussels and shrimp as the second course, and a Seabreem as my fish dish. I ordered asparagus and French Fries as my sides.

It was rather nerve-wracking, honestly. I don't normally make these kind of decisions when I go to a restaurant. I am normally choosing between completed dishes rather than from the raw materials up. If things went awry here it was all on me.

After the Fish Station I was taken over to the Wine Market. The wines were arranged vertically against a wall with the prices clearly marked next to each. I selected a Meursault. Did I mention that this is currently my go-to white wine? The wine person placed the bottle into a bucket of ice, pulled a glass from the rack, and walked me to my table.

The restaurant had a lively vibe with, as the web site had indicated, nary a tablecloth in sight. The block-like tables were close together so you had a sense of shared seating without it actually being shared. Enthusiastic pescatarians were everywhere.

The cold appetizers arrived and, to the best of my knowledge, this was the first time I was eating Dutch and Irish Oysters. They were delicious. The Hamachi was drizzled with a Rotterdam Soy Sauce. Heavenly. Hamachi with Meursault? To die for.

The warm appetizers were Gambas and Mussels. The shrimps were lightly barbecued and served with salsa verde and spring onions. The Mussels were prepared Asian-style with homemade Sambal, ginger, and lime leaves. Again, the Meursault was an enhancing agent.

By this time I was beginning to question my choices. I had eaten a whole lot and still had not gotten to the fish dish. When the fish arrived I knew that I would only be consuming a part of it. It looked beautiful, laying there waiting for me to attack; but I was saying no mas, no mas. Well I did mas, but not too much. The fish was cooked in a Puttanesca Sauce along with anchovies, olives, and capers. And, I had French Fries and Asparagus as sides. Too much.

The dishes were immaculate but there is a shortcomings to the first visit. You are not sure as to what things will look like on the other side so you run the risk of over- (or under-) ordering. I am much better positioned now to order more effectively the next time around. And there will be a next time.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Co-Inoculation as a risk-mitigation strategy in malolactic fermentation

I have previously discussed the malolactic fermentation (MLF) of wine both as a 'natural" occurrence and being induced through inoculation. In that treatment I discussed MLF as occurring after alcoholic fermentation (AF) in a sequential process. The gap between the conclusion of AF and the initiation of MLF is a risky period as no sulfur can be applied to the wine due to its toxic effect on the bacteria that facilitate the latter. During this time, the wine is exposed to the potential of oxidation and attack by spoilage organisms. While inoculation reduces the duration of the gap, it does not completely eliminate the risk.

Under the "right" circumstances, the lactic acid bacteria (LAB) can themselves pose a risk to wine quality. In a normal AF, all of the fermented sugars are consumed by the yeasts, with residual sugars coming in at < 2g/l. Also, the fermented sugars will have been fully consumed prior to the full depletion of the malic acid. In cases of stuck or sluggish fermentations, however, the malic acid may be fully depleted while fermentable sugars are still available. LABs are heterofermentative and while they preferentially consume malic and citric acids, they "possess the metabolic machinery to utilize glucose and fructose for the production of energy." The by-product of such energy production is acetic acid, an undesirable characteristic in wine.

Co-inocualtion, an emerging approach,  has been employed as a strategy to minimize the identified risks. The figure below shows MLF considerations and the options in the inoculation space.

Co-inoculation involves introducing selected LAB into the wine within 12 to 48 hours of its inoculation with AF yeasts. If the LAB is introduced earlier than 12 hours post yeast inoculation, 99% of the viable cells would be killed off by free sulfites. In the early stages of AF, however, the yeasts produce compounds which detoxify the free sulfites, rendering the environment more hospitable for the LAB. 

Advantages of Co-inoculation

Following are some of the benefits associated with co-inoculation:

• Better control over the winemaking process in terms of time management
• Shorter AF-MLF cycle
• Bacteria are introduced into a low-ethanol, high-nutrient environment with the lowest pH the wine will probably experience
• Bacterial activity is suppressed during active fermentation but cells acclimatize their membranes to the rising alcohol during this time
• Microbiological activity of both the yeasts and the bacteria work to limit  development of contaminating organisms 
• As yeasts begin to die at the end of AF, they release nutrients into the wine just as malic bacterial production begins to transition from lag to log phase
• When MLF occurs under the reductive conditions of AF, lower levels of diacetyl and higher levels of fruity esters manifest in the wine. 

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Château Léoville Las Cases vertical tasting: 1975 - 2005 (selected vintages)

With the Léoville Las Cases background in the rearview mirror, I now turn to the actual tasting of the wines. The event was held on May 10th at Vineyard Wine Company (Lake Mary FL) and the participants are pictured below.

The wines included in the tasting are shown in the table below.  Petit Verdot was totally eliminated from the Grand Vin blend by at least 1996. Petit Verdot was a part of the blend for the Clos du Marquis wines tasted. The wines were tasted youngest to oldest overall and within flights.

Table 1. Léoville Las Cases tasting lineup by variety and estate

Year	Leoville	Marquis	Cabernet Sauvignon (%)	Merlot (%)	Petit Verdot (%)	Cabernet Franc (%)
2005	X		88	7		5
		X	50	37	1	12
2004	X		76	13		11
2000	X		77	9		14
		X	68	24	5	3
1998	X		76	15		9
1996	X		70	14		16
1994	X		60	24	4	12
1990	X		43	29	7	21
1986	X		66	19	5	11
1983	X		73	11	5	11
1978	X		55	19	3	23
1975	X		60	30	3	7

The 2000s Flight

2005 Léoville Las Cases

Ideal conditions in this year resulted in highly concentrated and perfectly balanced grapes.

This wine still needs time. A mix of black and red fruit on the nose along with tobacco, limestone, cassis, and mushroom. Forest floor, black and red fruit, mineral, and leather on the palate. Tannic monster. — Author

Not ready. Lots of tart cherries and you can tell the fruit is not quite developed yet and will get better with 10 years or more — Brian

2005 Clos du Marquis

Black and red fruit on the nose along with tobacco and graphite.  Nose carries through to the palate. The volume of Merlot versus the percentage in the Grand Vin is evident herein. Silky, integrated tannins. Balanced with a lengthy finish. — Author

Medium fruit and a little quick on the palate, slightly green notes, tannic, needs more time — Brian

2004 Léoville Las Cases*

The Grand Vin grapes were perfectly balanced and beautifully fresh.

This wine had a somewhat Pauillac nose with pencil shavings, black and red fruit, earth and spice prominent. Graphite and pencil shavings on the palate. Still somewhat tannic. — Author

For me the best wine of the flight, perfume on the nose, rose petals and potpourri, rocky tannins with cherries — Brian

2000 Léoville Las Cases

Excellent conditions allowed the harvesting of perfectly balanced grapes rich in phenolic compounds.

Concentrated intense dark fruit along with cedar wood, leather, and graphite on the nose.Dark fruits, currants, spice, and minerality on the palate. Full-bodied with grippy tannins and a lengthy finish. — Author

Luxardo cherries, balanced, tobacco notes and graphite – showing Pauillac almost, one of the better 2000 wines I have had this year — Brian

2000 Clos du Marquis

Dried fruits, cedar, mocha, graphite, and cassis on the nose. Sour cherries on the palate and a lengthy finish. — Author.

Still a great wine but with a shorter finish than the Leoville. A very balanced wine with less fruit than the Leoville — Brian

The 1990s Flight

1998 Léoville Las Cases

Early bud break and flowering with a hot, dry August favoring good ripening.

Bright black fruit, cassis, and pencil shavings on the nose along with vanilla, spice, truffle, leather and tobacco. Full-bodied on the palate with red cherries and charcoal. Soft tannins and a lengthy finish. — Author

Fruit was mediocre, a lot of tannins with a chemical nose — Brian

1996 Léoville Las Cases

Grapes, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, of extraordinary concentration. Perfectly balanced and highly aromatic.

Olives, tar, cedar, violets, dark fruits, cedar box and leather on the nose. Medium weight on the palate. Savory. Balanced. Smooth long finish. — Author

It’s a 1996!  Exactly what I thought it would be – excellent, thyme and sage notes blended with great cherry fruit and pencil lead. Tannin and acid matching and balanced. — Brian

1994 Léoville Las Cases

Rains and cool September temperatures disrupted the ideal conditions experienced until then.

Dry red and black fruit, cigar box, cedar, leather, and bell pepper on the nose. Creamy on the palate but with a hole in the middle. Fine tannins and a lengthy finish --- Author

Very short wine, still a very clean wine but fruit was less pronounced. Easy to drink but not complex — Brian

1990 Léoville Las Cases*

Perfectly ripe grapes.

Pencil lead, leather, and blackberry on the nose. Tertiary-rich. Elegant and balanced -- Author

Long lasting on palate with a perfect finish. This fruit was shocking as it was more ripe strawberry then cherry.  Fantastic wine which shows that these wines need all the age they can get — Brian

The 1980s Flight

1986 Léoville Las Cases*

Cabernet Sauvignon exceptionally ripe and concentrated.

Blackcurrants, leather, cassis, graphite, and rose petals on the nose. Balanced, persistent, and savory on the palate. Unresolved tannins with lengthy finish -- Author

While an integrated wine, the fruit is declining. Almost a sour fruit at this time — Brian

1983 Léoville Las Cases

Cool and wet spring followed by a hot and stormy July and August. Wet in the first half of September, hot and dry from the 17th on.

Missing fruit. Pencil shavings, cigar box, cassis, and barnyard on the nose. Medium weight with integrated tannins -- Author

All tertiary flavors at this point. Lots of tannin and acid. Very different from the other 1983s I have had this year — Brian

The 1970s Flight

1978 Léoville Las Cases*

Very dry August and September, following a wet winter and spring, allowed for good ripening.

Tertiary characteristics. Almost elegant. Red fruit along with medicinal character -- Author

Wow, what a wine for the age. Fantastic start and has a cola taste about 5 seconds in and has length, light tannin, and acid – my #1 — Brian

1975 Léoville Las Cases

Despite spring frosts, good growing conditions helped the grapes ripen properly.

Red and black fruits, forest floor, pencil lead, tobacco and leather on the nose. Red fruits and a savoriness on the palate. Balanced with resolved tannins and a lengthy finish -- Author

While it had more tannin and acid than the 1978, it was still light. Sweet tart flavor, with sour cherries but not a complex wine and past its time — Brian

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The asterisks associated with selected wines above indicates the wines of the flights. When evaluated against each other, the 1990 Grand Vin was adjudged the wine of the night.

Overall the wines showed very well with the Clos du Marquis holding its own. These wines show better with the passage of time and are consistent in the representation of non-fruit characters such as pencil lead/graphite, leather, cassis and tobacco. 

The full lineup is shown below.

We will continue our exploration of the Léoville wines with an upcoming tasting of the Barton wines.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme