I am in the process of providing a comprehensive review of the Sangiovese variety and, to date, have written on the clones, and viticulture (broader Tuscany in the 14th century; Chianti, 15th to 19th century; Chianti, 20th century to present). As noted by BKwine, “Sangiovese is an impressionable grape variety that easily takes on characters from the specific soil or terroir ...” so, at this time, I will double back and examine the physical aspects (climate, soils, aspect, elevation, etc.) of the Sangiovese terroirs.
In my discourses on Sangiovese viticulture, I concentrated mostly on the experiences in Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino. In this phase of the effort, I will expand the coverage to sample all of the major Sangiovese growing areas within Italy.
 |
| Red ovals indicate regions wherein Sangiovese grapes are grown and wine produced (modification of a nicks.com.au map) |
The primary Sangiovese wines in Tuscany are Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Chianti Classico DOCG, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, Chianti DOCG, Morellino di Scansano DOCG, and Montecucco DOC(G). In this post I will be covering Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Morelino di Scansano, and Montecucco.
 |
| Major Sangiovese-based wines in Tuscany (modification of a Winefolly map) |
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG
As shown in the map above, this region lies northeast of its fellow traveller Brunello di Montalcino. This region utilizes a Sangiovese variant called Prugnolo Gentile as the core of its wine, which is composed of > 70% Sangiovese, < 30% other approved red varieties, and < 5% of white varieties.
The region lies on a hilly ridge lying between Val di Chiana and Val d'Orcia with elevations ranging between 250 and 600 meters.
 |
| Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG |
The climate is warm and more continental than its compatriots. It experiences significant rainfall with November being the month with the highest levels. Annual rainfall clocks in at 730 mm.
Unlike Montalcino and Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile de Montepulciano allowed a regional zonation study by the famed cartographer Alessandro Masnaghetti. The map is shown above. The zonation study identified 36 crus (11 in the north, 13 in the south, 2 shared between the north and south, 6 in the east, and 6 in the west) with primarily Pliocene soils in the north and south, Pleistocene soils in the east, and a mix of Pliocene, Pleistocene, and Mesozoic soils in the west. Elevations were from 250 to 430 m in the north, 270 to 420 m in the south, 260 to 330 m in the east and from 470 to 600 m in the west.
Chiara Giorleo (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano -- Toscana: a focus on the soil composition) differentiates between Pliocene and Pleistocene soils and their effects on the wine made from grapes grown thereon. Pliocene soils are marine sands and clays and are "thin, more mineral and calcareous, composed of calcareous sands." Sangiovese from these soils tend to be "more concentrated, with a deep color and a marked tannic structure ... in addition to red fruits it offers floral notes." Pleistocene soils are fluvial-lacustrine sands and clays and are deep soils with "more siliceous sands with calcium carbonate." Sangiovese from these soils are "less concentrated, with 'smoother' and silky tannins and hints that turn more easily towards riper red fruit, citrus and spices." The soils distribution are shown in the geological map below.
 |
| Montepulciano soils distribution (Source: chiaragiorleo.com) |
The best vineyard areas are at 300m on southeast facing slopes on clay and sandy soils in the towns of Argiano, Caggiole, Canneto, Casalte, and Valiano.
Winemag describes the region's wines as having elegance and acidity along with body, tannin and structure. BBR cite them as having the richness of Brunello di Montalcino along with the perfume of Chianti Classico. These wines, further, are medium- to full-bodied with firm tannins, lively acidity accompanying fleshy strawberry and cherry fruit and hints of tea leaves.
Montecucco DOC and Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG
Montecucco is located on the south slopes of Mt Amiata, separated from the vines of Montalcino by the peaks of that long-dormant volcano. The region — located fully within the Maremma DOC, and sited between 50 and 500 m — attained DOC status in 1998 and gained a Sangiovese-focused DOCG in 2011.
 |
| Montecucco DOC and DOCG (Source: consorziomontecuccio.it) |
Montecucco’s climate is typically Mediterranean with year-round drying, cleaning breezes blowing in from the Tyrrenhian Sea. These breezes, plus the altitude (for more elevated vineyards) serve as moderating forces against the summer heat while the mountainous peaks protect against winds from the north in colder months.
The soils are comprised of fertile clay along the Ombrone and Orcia rivers and poorer soils — with lots of stone, volcanic elements, and lava — at higher altitudes. Fractured sandstone can be found in areas approaching the sea.
Campinuovi is a 7-ha estate located at elevations ranging between 350 and 465 meters. The soils in this small estate are rather varied (campinuovi.com):
- Sandstone-derived coarse-textured soils rich in organic matter
- Sandy clay soils formed on fluvial gravel and iron-rich conglomerates
- Sandy clay soils formed in fluvial gravel and calcareous conglomerates
- Silty clay soils
- Marl-derived clay soils.
The estate also benefits from the water flowing deep underground in transit between the mountains and the plain. Vine roots are able to access these water resources year-round.
The best wines from the region are produced in seven key villages: Cinigiani, Civiletta Paganino, Campagnatico, Castei del Piano, Roccalbegna, Arcidosso, and Seggiano. The Sangiovese wines are produced from the same Sangiovese type as in Brunello di Montalcino -- Sangiovese grosso -- and are configured as shown in the table below.
Table 1. Montecucco Wines.
Type | Montecucco DOC | Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG | |
Rosato | > 60% Sangiovese and/or Ciliegiolo | ||
Rosso | Composition | > 60% Sangiovese + OANRG | > 90% Sangiovese + OANRG; 13% abv |
Aging | 17 months | 18 mos of which > 12 mos in barrel | |
Rosso Riserva | Composition | Same as Rosso | Same as Rosso |
Aging | 18 mos in barrel, 6 mos in bottle | 34 mos of which > 24 mos in barrel; 6 months in bottle; 13.5% abv |
The wines from this region have been described as having "more pronounced flavors of black cherry and plum than in Montalcino" and being "deep structured wines offering excellent fruit and spice."
Morellino di Scansano DOCG
With the Tyrrhenian Sea in close proximity to its south, and bordered to its north by Montecucco, the subject zone falls fully within Maremma DOC. Vineyards are sited on southwest-facing slopes at elevations ranging between 300 and 500 m on the coastal range hugging the towns of Scansano and Maglione. The production zone encompasses the municipality of Scansano and parts of the municipalities of Grosseto, Magliano in Toscana, Campagnatico, Roccabegna, Semproniano, and Manciano. Sangiovese is called Morellino -- little dark one -- in this area.
The climate is Mediterranean with plenty of warm sunshine and refreshing sea breezes and is moderated by the winds blowing in off the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Albegna River. Diurnal temperature swings during the summer and autumn promote ripening and acid retention.
As noted above, "the vineyards are located on the hills and foothills which slope south from the north and the east towards the plain of Albinia and westward to the Tyrrhenian coast and the plain of Grosseto." The location affords protection from cold north winds while providing access to the temperate breezes from the sea.
The former swampland has two main types of soil: (i) relatively uniform sandstone in the western portion and (ii) limestone and clay to the east. Given its origins, it is rich in marine sediments. It is also relatively shallow, allowing the irregular emergence of rocky substrates. The soil in the hills is or volcanic origin.
This southernmost of the Sangiovese DOCGs is associated with ripe fruit and rounder and more savory wines than its more northerly brethren. The wines have a "lively freshness and crisp character" accompanying notes of cherry, pomegranate, plum, leather, cedar, and spice. The wines are not as full-bodied and tannic as Brunello and Vino Nobile; rather, they are "fragrant and graceful."
*******************************************************************************************************
I will continue this series on the physical aspects of Tuscan Sangiovese terroirs with an exploration into the Montalcino case.
No comments:
Post a Comment