Kékfrankos versus Blaufränkisch at the Austro-Hungarian Tasting

The Second Flight at the Austro-Hungarian wine tasting was titled Hungarian Kékfrankos and Austrian Blaufränkisch and was designed to illustrate the "differences in terroir, climate and vinification" inherent in the offered wines.  Blaufränkisch and Kékfrankos are the respective names given to the same grape variety in Austria and Hungary, respectively (The same varietal is called Lemberger in Germany).

The wines tasted in this flight were: Heiman Estate - Baranya-völgyi Kékfrankos 2007; Gábor Karner Vitéxföld Kékfrankos 2007, Mátra; Ráspi Esatet - Gneis Kékfrankos 2007; Imre Kaló - Kékfrankos 2002; Weingut Krutzler Blaufränkisch Perwolff 2008, Südburgenland; Weingut Albert Gesselmann Blaufrnkisch Hochberc 2007, Mittelburgenland; Weingut Esterhazy Blaufränkisch Föllig 2008, Burgenland; Weingut Prieler Blaufränkisch Goldberg 1999, Burgenland.

Both Hungary and Austria have continental climates (hot summers, cold winters) and both have areas of the country where this climate is moderated by proximity to Lake Neusiedl.  The wines, with the exception of the 2008 Weingut Kutzler (95% Blaufränkisch, 5% Caberrnet Sauvignon), were all 100% varietal and all were made from grapes sourced from single-vineyard sites.  The Hungarian wines were from older vines (average age 47.5 years) than were the Austrian wines (average age 17 years).  While the soils in both sets of vineyards appear to have substantive limestone content, the soil in the Hungarian vineyards appear to have a high clay content while the Austrian soil seems to have more rock.

Hand picking of grapes was practiced at all of the wineries but there were clear differences in the fermentation and maturation processes both within and between countries.  No specific trends could be pinpointed for fermentation with the process occurring variously in concrete tanks, open vats, closed vats, and temperature-controlled, stainless steel tanks among others.  As regards maturation, the Hungarian wineries utilized Hungarian oak casks of varying sizes while two of the Austrian wineries used small oak barrels and a third split the juice between large oak casks and steel vats.  The wines were aged longer in Hungary (an average of 36 months) than in Austria (an average of 15 months).

2007 was a hot, dry year and the Hungarian grapes ripened fully, as can be seen by the average 14% abv and dark fruit aromas and flavors in the wine.  The Austrian Weingut Albert Gesellman was also from the 2007 vintage and also registered alcohol levels of 14%.   2008 was a late-ripening vintage and, combined with younger vines, resulted in slightly higher acidity in the Austrian wines from that vintage. The presence of oak was more evident in the Esterhazy and Prieler wines from Austria than in any of the other wines.  Those two wines were aged in small oak barrels (100% new in the Esterhazy case) while the others were aged in large oak casks. The relative performance of both the aged Blaufränkisch and Kékfrankos wines attest to the ageability of wines made from this varietal.

This flight was designed to highlight the effect of differences in climate, terroir, and vinification on the same varietal as produced in the two countries.  As far as I know, the climate is broadly similar in Hungary and Austria and, as such, would not be a major differentiating factor.  As a matter of fact, 2007 was a hot year and that fact is reflected in the complete ripening of the varietal in both countries and alcohol levels of 14% in the finished wine. There were no consistently different vinification practices between the estates from the two countries. In the aging of the wines, two of the Austrian producers stand out as using small oak barrels for maturation and aging and those wines do reflect a more tightly wound access to oak.

Austro-Hungarian Tasting and the Wines of Wachau

At the recent Austro-Hungarian wine tasting, held in London at the residence of the Austrian Ambassador, three wines from the Austrian specific wine growing area of Wachau were featured: Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Weissenkirchen 2009; Weingut Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg 2007; and Domäne Wachau Riesling Smaragd Singerriedl 2002.  In this post I will examine both the region and the wines presented at the tasting.

The Wachau specific wine growing area falls within the broader wine growing area of Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) and, at 1350 hectares, is the third smallest of the eight specific wine growing areas that comprise this region.  Wachau is a narrow valley which runs along the Danube River for 20.5 miles from Krems in the north to Melk in the South.  The spectacular views of its steep hillside terraces running away from the banks of the river have earned it designation as a World Heritage site.

The Wachau climate is continental (hot, dry summers and cold winters), moderated somewhat by the Danube, warm Pannonian winds from the east, and cool winds from the Weinviertel (an area located in the northeast of Lower Austria).  The climatic conditions result in a diurnal shift which aids ripening during the daytime hours while allowing for acidity- and flavor-retention during the cooler nighttime hours.

The characteristic Wachau vineyard sits on one of the steep terraced slopes which line the Danube as it wends its way through the valley.  The soil on the slopes are loess (an Aeolian sediment formed by the accumulation of wind-blown silt and sand and clay that are loosely cemented by calcium carbonate) and gneiss (a banded metamorphic rock with the same composition as granite) while the flatlands are comprised of sand, gravel, and loess.

The primary grape varieties in the region are Riesling and Grüner Veltliner.  While the remainder of Austria hews to a German-like quality wine classification scheme, Wachau retains its traditional scheme which is based on grape ripeness and alcohol levels: Steinfelder -- 11% abv (consumed locally); Federspiel -- 11-12.5% abv (exported); and Smaragd -- 12.5% abv (made from the ripest, highest quality grapes).

Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Weissenkircher 2009

According to information provided at the tasting, Domäne Wachau is the largest cooperative in the valley with its 600 members farming slightly less than 500 of the region's 1300 hectares.  The focus in the cooperative is on quality with members being paid against that benchmark rather than on quantity.  The wine presented at the tasting was 100% Grüner Veltliner sourced from a number of villages in the Weissenkirchen parish.  Weissenkirchen wines are generally deep in structure and exhibit both marked minerality and exceptional balance.  This wine has a floral note to accompany its fresh crispness and medium plus acidity.  It is 12.5% abv and has 2.3g/l of residual sugar.

Weingut Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg 2007

The Knoll estate is located in the village of Unterloiben but its vineyards are spread over a number of famous sites to include Loibenberg, the source of the grapes for this wine.  The grapes for this wine were picked later than were the grapes for the preceding wine and that fact is reflected in its designation (Smaragd) and alcohol level (13.5%). Residual sugar is 2.5 g/l.  This wine exhibited a floral note, vegetality, crisp acidity, and a metallic minerality.  This wine will age well.

Domäne Wachau Riesling Smaragd 2002


This was the second of two Domäne Wachau offerings at the tasting.  The grapes for this wine were sourced from Singerriedel, a sheltered vineyard east of the town of Spitz.  The wines from this vineyard are usually concentrated due to the enhanced ripening afforded by heat retained by the rocky terraces.  This wine had 13% abv and 2.1 g/l of residual sugar.  On the nose it had notes of petrol and tropical fruits.  It was very dry on the palate in relation to the promise of the nose.  Medium plus acidity and minerality.  Long, green finish.

Austro-Hungarian tasting and the wines from Somló, Hungary

At the recent Austro-Hungarian tasting held in London at the residence of the Austrian Ambassador, three wines from the Somló wine region of Hungary were featured: Somló Abbey Winery Olaszrizling 2009: Domaine Kreinbacher Kőkonyha 2008; and Hóllovar Estate Hárslevelű 2009. In this post I examine both the region and the wines presented at the tasting.

The Somló wine region is, at 900 hectares, one of the smallest wine regions in Hungary. The region has historically been structured around the land on the slopes of the extinct volcano Somló-hegy but has recently been extended to incorporate the land and vines on two nearby hills. The region’s climate is continental and diverse with hot and humid summers, dry autumns, rainy springs and cold winters. The soil is basalt, clay and sand with increasing percentages of basalt as elevation is increased.

The wines from Somló are exclusively white and are made from Hárslevelű, Furmint, Juhfark (the most recognized wine from the region), Welschrizling, Traminer, Chardonnay, and Olaszrizling. The wines of the region are acidic and exhibit an earthiness due to the minerals in the soil. These wines require long aging in wooden casks and, given their robustness, have somewhat fallen out of favor.

Somló Abbey Winery Olaszrizling 2009

Somló Abbey’s 3-hectare vineyard is home to 15,000 vines of all allowed varietals and yields an average of 5,000 bottles annually. The vineyard is located on basalt-covered soil at 230 meters above sea level. The winery pursues low yields and practices minimal intervention in both the viticultural and vinicultural aspects of winemaking. The grapes are hand-harvested and only free-run juice is used in the wines. The wine is fermented in 500 liter used Hungarian oak barrels. No artificial yeasts are used during the fermentation process.

This particular vintage is 100% Olaszrizling and is 13.5% alcohol by volume. The wine was medium pale yellow in color and had notes of apple and other tropical fruits such as banana and papaya. A definite earthiness on the palate. 5g/l of residual sugar.

Domaine Kreinbacher Kőkonyha 2008

This winery was established in 2002 and has 33 hectares of vines. Annual production from this organically farmed vineyard is 9000 cases annually. The wines are fermented and aged in Hungarian oak barrels of between 500 and 2000 liters in volume. This is the only winery in the region that makes blended wine and this particular entry is made from equal parts Furmint, Hárslevelű, and Olaszrizling. The soil in the vineyards is basalt and the Olaszrizling vines are planted on southeast-facing slopes, the Furmint vines on south-facing slopes and the Hárslevelű vines on southwest-facing slopes. All of the varietals are planted between 250 and 280 meters above sea level.

The wine registers at 14% alcohol by volume. It is pale yellow in color and has a slight florality. It is light-bodied with a lot of acidity. It has a greenish/bitter note on the palate and intense minerality. A long finish.

Hóllovar Estate Hárslevelű 2009

This estate is comprised of a single 4-hectare, south/southeast-facing plot located at the foot of the basalt strips on Somló Hill. The estate name derives from the protected birds’ nests hidden among the basalt rocks. Varietals planted on the plot include Furmint, Olaszrizling, Hárslevelű, Juhfark, and Sauvignon Blanc. The vineyard sits between 215 and 270 meters above sea level.

At 14%, the wine is high in alcohol but exhibits good balance. The wine is light bodied with notes of pine and exotic fruits.

Austro-Hungarian Seminar: Tasting and Lunch

The Austro-Hungarian Tasting Seminar, held on Tuesday, October 12, 2010, at the residence of the Austrian Ambassador to the United Kingdom, started at around 10:00 am as scheduled.  The seminar was held in a room above and to the left of the foyer and reception area and was set up such that the attendees faced the seminar panelists who were seated in a continuous line at tables arrayed across the front of the room.  A screen for projection of presentation material was above and to the right of the 

panelists’ location.

The Chair of the event was Elizabeth Gabay MW and she made a brief statement before introducing the Ambassador, His Excellency Mr. Emil Brix.  Mr. Brix welcomed us to his residence and the event and wished us the best as we embarked on this very important initial joint marketing effort for the wines of Austria and Hungary.After Mr. Brix’s welcome, Elizabeth explained the process and then turned it over to the panelists.

The tasting itself was organized into three flights.  The first flight -- Indigenous white varieties from Somló and Wachau -- showcased the native white varietals from these two important Austrian wine regions.  The second flight -- Hungarian Kékfrankos and Austrian Blaufränkisch -- sought to compare and contrast the wines made from this varietal (different in name only) in Hungary and Austria.  Flight three highlighted the taste and production methods of the Tokaji and Ruster Ausbruch sweet wines.

Each flight tasting was led by a team comprised of two high-ranking winery representatives, each of whom focused on a particular perspective.  In flight three, for example, Heidi Schröck of 

Weingut Schröck led the session on Ruster Ausbruch while Péter Molnár of Patricus Winery focused on Tokaji.  The wines for each flight were poured prior to the beginning of the flight session which allowed for short breaks between sessions.  Questions were fielded at the end of a flight session.

It was very obvious that each of the panelists attached great significance to these proceedings.  They each stepped out of their winery shoes and focused on the bigger picture of regional/country wines and the going-forward possibilities for co-operation between the wineries of the two countries.  They were earnest and focused and brought along a lot of supporting props (The attendees were bombarded with soil, leaf, and varietal samples.).

The audience, which seemed to be comprised primarily of wine professionals doing business in wines from one or the other of these two countries, was engaged and asked piercing questions whenever the opportunity arose.


At the end of the seminar, we migrated to the Empress Maria Theresia Room which had been set up for a buffet lunch.  The room itself was divided into two sections with the larger of the two serving as the eating space and the smaller as the serving station.  The luncheon was sponsored by the Esterhazy Foundation, one of the supporters of the International Masters of Wine.  The Esterhazy Winery had flown its Chef over to London to oversee preparation of the lunch.  A fine array of wines accompanied the luncheon.

The Hungarian Ambassador joined the group at lunch and made a small speech thanking attendees for participation.  The head of the International Masters of Wine organization also spoke at htis time and was especially grateful to the Esterhazy Foundation for all that they had done to help make the event a success.