In my most recent post on the life of the famed Sangiovese expert Giulio Gambelli, I tagged Montalcino’s Il Colle as one of the Brunello producers— joining estates such as Case Basse, Cerbaiona, and Poggio di Sotto — fortunate enough to gain access to, and incorporate, his thoughts and practices into their winemaking efforts.
Il Colle was founded in 1972 with Notary Alberti Carli’s purchase of the medieval house and 11 ha of land that had once been a part of the Conti Costanti Colle al Matrichese property (The property was split back in the 18th century as a result of family inheritance and divisions.).
Upon purchase, Carli immediately planted 3 ha of Brunello and 2 ha of olive groves, producing the first vintage of Brunello in 1978. The estate has since grown to 8 ha of vines with the purchase of the 5-ha Localita Podernova dei Campi in Castelnuova dell’Abate. The vineyards are farmed organically.
Alberto died in 2001 and his daughter Caterina has been managing the property ever since.
The estate produces a Rosso and a Brunello, blends of grapes grown in both locations. The Brunello is a made from a careful selection of the best bunches from both vineyards. The fruit from the original vineyard (480 m elevation) provides elegance, freshness, floral notes, and minerality while the southeastern fruit (230 m) provides structure, power, and color.
Giulio Gambelli has guided the family’s winemaking efforts since 1981. According to Caterina:
Giulio Gambelli has been the guide and inspiration behind the vines I produce. The simplicity and naturalness of his way of living and working have always accompanied me along with the belief that making a good wine requires a few simple rules: hard work in the vineyard, time, passion, and cleanliness.
The “Gambellian” winemaking practices employed by the estate include indigenous yeasts, long maceration on the skins, aging in Slavonian botti, and no filtering. Kerin O’Keefe has described the resulting wine as “... graceful yet structured Brunellos” and a “ pure unfiltered expression of Sangiovese.”
2014 Il Colle Brunello di Montalcino
The 2014 growing season was very rainy across the entire peninsula of Italy and, according to Il Colle, slowed down the ripening until mid-June. Mild temperatures in July and August, and sunny skies in late September and early October, ensured high-quality fruit and "beautiful days of harvest."
The wine was fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged for 48 months in 30- and 50-hL, fine-grained Slavonian oak barrels.
Popped and poured. Concentrated florality, ripe blackberries, oiliness, and intense spice notes initially. Elegant, sensuous, complex. Interweaving of spice and elegant yet concentrated fruit along with talcum powder and dried herbs.
Low-intensity dark fruit on palate initially along with bright acidity. Medium weight. Balanced. With time, earthy/woody character and tannins which evolve through structured to chalky coating to a silky state. Fruit gains intensity on the palate as it attains a sour cherry character. Bitter note leads into a spicy finish. A lovely wine.
No comments:
Post a Comment