Cress Restaurant (DeLand, FL) is back (and is serving lunch to boot)

Cress Restaurant is back. Long one of the leading restaurants in the Greater Orlando area, this creation of Chef Hari Pulapaka, and his wife Jenneffer, had been withdrawn from daily operations and, instead, presented as a special-events/limited-operations entity. This "retreat" was driven by the growth in civic and charitable causes to which the owners had became devoted while still holding down full-time jobs (he as a Math Professor at Stetson, she as a Podiatrist).

But buttressed by a brand new team, Cress has resumed normal dinner operations (Tuesday through Saturday) and has expanded to now include lunch service (Tuesday through Friday). The new members of the team are:

• Tom Brandt, General Manager and Co-Owner
• Suran Brandt, Manager
• Sam Bove, Executive Sous Chef

I had not dined at the restaurant since its return to full service but corrected that by making a reservation for the first day of its lunch service. The city was in the midst of a road-beautification project on the day of my visit so we had to park some distance away from the destination and lug our wine bags back. Our pain was diminished significantly by Suran's warm welcome. There were some changes to the decor but overall it was the same inviting space that I had come to know and love.

We were shown to our seats and presented with the lunch menu. I loved it at first sight: substantial offerings in categories titled Soups, Salads, Appetizers/Sharing Plates, Sandwiches, Signature Mains, and Sweet Plates. I sat back and popped a cork. It was going to be a long day.

I started out with the Bell & Evans Chicken and Andouille Gumbo: chunks of chicken and sausage in a thick, rich, spicy sauce. A slightly rustic taste with a note of acidity. Parlo went for the North African Lentil Stew for her soup course. I tasted and it was awesome.

Bell & Evans Chicken and Andouille Gumbo
with steamed rice and parsley

North African Lentil Stew with harissa toast.
mint, lemon

Parlo and I shared the Signature Escargot. This dish has always been one of my favorites on the dinner menu and it did not disappoint this time. Mushroom as a through line.

Signature Escargot with clarified butter, garlic,
mushrooms, and grilled bread

I have had Pork Belly at Cress before but not suited up in this manner. I do not like bread getting between me and my pork belly so I disrobed it to reveal the thick juicy slab of PB nestled within. It went well with the accompanying fire-roasted vegetables. Substantial and tasty.

Berkshire Pork Belly Banh Mi with sauce
 Manchurian, house slaw, spiced peanuts,
cilantro, mint

For my main dish I had the Tikka Masala curry but also snared some of Saru's Creole Shrimp and Cress Grits. The Tikka Masala is a Cress staple and was just as good as ever. The Shrimp and Grits did not disappoint.

Tikka Masala Curry with Tofu and vegetables,
steamed basmati rice, garlic naan, cilantro

At the end of the service Chef Hari came over and spent some time with us. He was in a very relaxed mood and seemed especially pleased with the current state of affairs. As we lauded him on the dishes, he again stressed the importance of spices in his cuisine (the through line, he said).

Chef Hari

The team

Orange Infused Vanilla Bean Créme Brûlée with fresh berries,
strawberries

We also got to spend some quality time with Suran once her duties were complete. We sat around talking and drinking and then took the party over to The Elusive Grape. Just like we always do.

I am wishing this incarnation of Cress Restaurant all the best. They have all of the ingredients in place to be successful. Tom brings significant restaurant management experience to the table, as does Suran. This frees up Chef Hari to focus on the menu and training the Sous Chefs and Jenneffer to focus on the wines and wine pairings. It also allows them to travel to civic/charitable commitments knowing that things will continue apace on the home front.

If you have not visited the restaurant, now is as good a time as any. If you have visited previously, try lunch. Please note that this is not an unbiased review of this restaurant: I like the people and I like the food.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Chef Hari Pulapaka's (Cress Restaurant, Deland) book launch and signing event at the Elusive Grape

Greater Orlando is blessed with a vibrant and growing foodie scene that is being fueled by innovative, young (and some not so young) chefs such as Kevin Fonzo (K Restaurant), Scott Hunnell (Victoria & Albert's), James Petrakis (Ravenous Pig), Norman Van Aken (Norman's), Brandon McGlamery (Luma on Park), Henry Salgado (Txokos Basque Kitchen), Hari Pulapaka (Cress Restaurant), and Dustin Haney (Scratch). These chefs understand their role in growing the culture in the city and work cooperatively in many areas to keep the ball moving forward.

I love the food that these gentlemen prepare and admire the effort that they are putting in. This admiration and, in the case of Chef Hari, friendship, prompted my attendance at the launch party and signing event for his first book.

In emails, and in person, Chef Hari frequently mentioned writing a book but I would smile and nod knowingly because this guy does not have time for any other activities. He is, as he says, "the hardest working man not in show business." He is a Math professor at Stetson University in Deland, a full-time chef, and he and his wife are continuously initiating and managing myriad charity events. Where would he find time to write a book? Smile and nod.

So I was pleasantly surprised when I received the announcement email regarding completion of the book and an upcoming signing ceremony to be held at the Elusive Grape. Cress would be closed for the evening to allow Hari to give his full attention to the persons who showed their support by purchasing the book.

Subsequent Hari emails notified recipients that the event was sold out. In order to gain a close-in parking, we arrived way before the scheduled start time and that strategy was rewarded with a spot just outside the Elusive Grape back door. We parked and walked through the establishment to the front where attendees were being registered. Names were checked off on a list after which you were presented with a copy of the book, a T-shirt, and a glass of wine.

After registration, I re-entered the building, found a nice spot, and settled in for the long haul. As I looked around the crowded room, filled with smiling well-wishers, each with one or more of Hari's books clutched tightly under their arms, I thought how fitting it was that this milestone in Hari's life was being celebrated here at the Elusive Grape. Because these two entrepreneurs, and their respective establishments, are the culturotainment lifeblood/infrastructure of the city. They have taught the residents what to expect and demand -- in terms of high-quality food, wine, and social atmosphere -- and they have ensured that they themselves deliver to this self-defined bar.

After a while I began thumbing through the book. It was titled Dreaming in Spice. I would later get to know that 200 copies had been printed on this first run. That it had been printed locally. That the design and layout were all done by Hari. And that all the pictures were taken by Jenneffer and two other individuals. The book was primarily intended to share Hari's recipes with readers but presents them within the context of his evolving life journey, a journey which began, as detailed in the book, in the city of Bombay (now Mumbai). The book also has a section on wines (written by Jenneffer) and many of the recipes are accompanied by a banner on the bottom with suggested wine pairings.

After Harry had made the initial rounds, and signed most of the books in the room, he welcomed the attendees and thanked them for their support. He encouraged us to socialize and to partake of the hor d'oeuvres which would be passed around, recipes for which could be found in the book.

Hari exhorting, Jenneffer adoring

And fun was being had by all

It had been cold in the greater Orlando area for a while and this was the first nice evening (by Orlando standards) in a long time. So they took the party outside. Because that's what it had now become. A party. A chance for Hari and Jenneffer to sit back and enjoy themselves without having to worry about whether this plate was hot enough or if that customer was still gluten-free, etc.

Hari and Dustin Haney (Scratch)

Bram and Geraldine Fowler (longtime Orlando Chefs)

Two of my favorite chefs in town

Sposa, Fred, and the boys from Scratch

As per usual, the 4 of us were the last to leave the building

A great night was had by all. Friendships restored and/or re-invigorated. The cameraderie of Deland residents was on full display as well as their responsiveness to, and support of, the Pulapakas. I plan on reviewing the book on this site sometime in the future.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

James Beard Nominees Charity Dinner at Cress Restaurant: The Spinoff

In an earlier post on the Cress Restaurant James Beard Nominees Charity Dinner, I had described how my wife became caught up in a bidding war to secure two tickets to dine with Chef Hari Pulapaka of said restaurant.  Bill Budzinski, owner of Elusive Grape, had spiced the offer up by promising that Chef Hari and his wife Jenneffer would join the lucky "winners" for dinner.  Further, Bill and his wife would also join the party and he would supply the wine.  Hence a three-way bidding war.  One of the wiser combatants called a truce just as things were about to really go off the deep end and proposed that the three parties split the current bid amount equally -- that's how bad it had gotten -- and would all participate in the dinner.  I jumped at that deal on behalf of my wife before she had a chance to do any alpha-dog stuff.

The dinner was set for Sunday, November 27th.  One of the winning bidders could not make the date but gave us permission to press on.  So we did.  Eight of us in a downtown Deland restaurant that was closed to members of the public.  As I stepped into the restaurant I noted that it had been set up such that the focus was on a centrally located, tastefully appointed table.  The lighting in the restaurant was somewhat restrained.  The wines for the night were arrayed on the bar to the southern side of the restaurant. Napkins were carefully draped across every place setting and folded, sealed menus nestled comfortably on them.

We were the first to arrive, followed in rapid succession by our fellow diners.  We greeted each other with a sense of anticipation.  We were going in and we were going in together. I was ready.  I had eaten lightly during the course of the day because Chef had promised us a meal fit for a Rajah.

We were welcomed to the event by Jenneffer who thanked us for our contributions to the success of the original charity dinner and reminded us that the charities which had benefited from the event were The Taste of Orlando and Second Harvest Food Bank. We toasted ourselves with a bottle of Ca'del Bosco Brut Rosé and then followed up with a wonderful 1992 Bollinger.

There were no servers or other help around.  The Chef was doing all the cooking, plating, and serving.  He appeared unflustered as he brought out the Amuse Bouche: Two types of Croquettes (Applewood Bacon and Vegetarian), a Blooming Onion Pakora, Cranberry Compote, and South Indian Coconut and Ghost Chile Sauce.  The Onion Pakora was bound together with chick-pea flour and had a distinct ginger flavor.  I tried the Croquettes with both of the sauces and felt that the latter provided a better textural contrast.  This was very flavorful all around with a definite undercurrent of exotic Indian spices.  The Bollinger paired very nicely with this course.

The second course was a visually pleasing salad constructed with Smoked Heirloom Tomatoes, Roasted Grapes, Seasonal Local Lettuce, Sesame Sherry Vinaigrette, Chèvre, and Toasted Walnuts.  A distinctive smoked-herring and walnut flavor accompanied the crisp lettuce onto the palate.  The wines presented were a 1968 Vina Valoria Rioja and a 2007 Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay.  Unfortunately the Vina Valoria was corked but the crisp acidity of the chardonnay carried the day.

Had I mentioned that this was going to be a seven-course meal?  That was big enough but, within the courses, the chef presented options from which we could choose.  For example, the options for the second course were: i) Cast Iron Roasted Grimaud Farms Duck Breast; ii) Pan Roasted Breast of Ashley Farms Chicken; or iii) Butternut Squash Ravioli.  Each of option was presented with a black habanero reduction and, additionally for the third option, Point Reyes Bleu Alfredo.  I opted for the Duck Breast and was treated to an explosion of flavor tinged with spiciness.  A mixture of crispy, crunchy texture close to the skin and softer moistness as you moved towards the center. Wonderful.  This course was paired with a Two Hands 2003 Lily's Garden McLaren Vale Shiraz.

The third course was Linguini with San Marzano Vodka Sauce and Parmeggiano Reggiano.  The pasta had great consistency with hints of pine nuts, lemon zest, and pesto.  Low-grade spiciness.  Paired with a 1997 Don Melchor Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.

As was the case for the second course, the fourth course provided options: i) Kurobuta Pork Cheek Tikka Masala; ii) Cape Canaveral Wild Shrimp Tikka Masala; or iii) Vegetarian Kofta Tikka Masala.  Each of these dishes was offered with Poblano and Grilled Garlic Naan.  I went for the Pork Cheeks.  Its soft texture allowed it to become fully engaged with the Tikka Masala in a mutually beneficial relationship.  A Tikka-Masala-dunked Naan is a special experience when delivered with this level of care and expertise.  Excellent.  Paired with a 2009 Zind Humbrecht Gewurtztraminer.

For the fifth course the chef asked us to choose between a Darling Downs Wagyu Ribeye and an Exotic Mushroom and Pistou Napolean, both prepared with a Smoked Onion Velouche and Truffled Porcini Foam.  You have probably noticed my penchant for meat. This course was paired with the 2003 Lokoya Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. An excellent steak which I only succeeded in polishing off today.

Following a cheese selection, our final course was Dark Chocolate Pots de Créme, Grilled Figs, and Salted Caramel Sauce.

This meal had unfolded in a somewhat surreal setting: the restaurant was empty -- save for us --and downtown Deland was empty -- save for us.  It was as though we were alone in the world, eating in a vacuum.  But this was of no account to us.  Chef had gone from strength to strength as we moved through the courses.  The pace had been somewhat languid with Chef spending a fair amount of time at the table shooting the breeze.  Our conversation was animated and far-ranging (as it is won't to be in Jenneffer's presence) and it was now midnight (The dinner had originally been scheduled form 6:00 to 11:00 pm).  I had to give up.  I was begging for mercy and aluminum foil.

This was a rich, opulent, and decadent meal fit for a Rajah.  And us.

Central Florida James Beard Nominees Charity Dinner at Cress Restaurant

The patrons of Deland's Cress Restaurant were tickled pink that their hometown restaurant was hosting the inaugural Central Florida James Beard Nominees Charity Dinner and this delight was manifested in the turnout and their enthusiastic embrace of all aspects of the evening's event. 

The event featured a 7-course meal prepared by an all-star cast of Orlando chefs to include Scott Hunnell of Victoria and Albert's, James and Julie Petrakas of The Ravenous Pig, Kevin Fonzo of K Restaurant and Wine Bar, and Chef Hari Pulapaka of Cress Restaurant.  All proceeds from the event benefitted The Coalition for the Homeless of Central Florida and Second Harvest Food Bank of Central Florida.

The event was slated to begin at 6:30 pm and most people arrived on time.  The doors were closed, however, as management and staff continued with their last minute preparations.  When the door was finally opened, it was only long enough to allow one couple through.  Once that couple was placed in pre-assigned seats, another couple was let in, and so on until all seats were filled.  The table settings were gorgeous and menu presentation impeccable.  Once you arrived at your seat, a member of the wait staff came over and introduced him/herself and offered a flute of Heidsick Monopole Blue Top Brut champagne.

Once everyone was seated, the chefs came out of the kitchen to be introduced to the attendees.  Chef Hari opened the proceedings by thanking his fellow chefs and remarking on how impresesed he was with them.  They had shown up two to three hours earlier and had immediately gone about setting up their material.  Things had run so smoothly that they were now helping him in his set up.  Each chef then introduced him/herself and acknowledged the underlying purpose of the evening and how happy they were to be able to participate in this worthy cause.  Chef Hunnell talked about these chefs being at the vanguard of a food and dining movement in Orlando which is aimed at providing residents and guests with an attractive culinary scene.  Chef Petrakis also referenced this culianry movement but expanded its reach all across Florida.  At the conclusion of their comments, the chefs exited stage left and the serious examination of their handiwork commenced.

 T

The first course was an Amuse Bouche composition with contributions from a majority of the chefs: Applewood Smoked Bison with an Apple-Walnut Salad from Chef Hunnell; Blue Fin Tuna and Scallop Tartare with Caviar and Hazelnut from Chef Petrakis; Pickled Deep Creek Ranch Pickled Beef Tongue Reuben with House Kraut, Caraway Gribiche, and Toasted Pumpernickel from Chef Fonzo; and Pasture Prime Farm Milk Fed Ranger Chicken Bisteya with Tikka Masala Ice Cream and Preserved Lemon from Chef Pulapaka.  This was paired with the Heidsick champagne referenced earlier.  

The second course was a Chef Hunnel creation and featured Spanish Octopus, Summer Tomatoes, Arbequina Olive Oil.  It was paired with a 2010 Legado del Condo Albarino Rias Baixas, a Spanish white wine.

The third course, offered by Chef Pulapaka, was a Roasted Local Snowy Grouper, Local Shellfish "Cioppino", and Summer Truffles.  It was paired with a 2006 Domaine GuffensHeynen Macon Pierreclos.

The Intermezzo was Blackberry Blood Orange with an Habanero gel.

Course 4: Oxtail Tortellini, Butter-Poached Maine Lobster, Sunchokes, Lobster Mushrooms.  A Chef James Petrakis offering paired with 2007 Jose Maria da Fonseca Domini Plus Douro, Portugal.

Course 5: From Chef Fonzo, a Braised Lake Meadow Naturals Goat Rib, Goat Belly Confit, House-Made Goat Cheese Pudding, Succotash of Sweet Corn and Summer Beans.  Paired with 2004 E&E "Black Pepper" Shiraz, Barossa Valley, Australia

The sixth course was a cheese composition: Artisanal Cheeses and Accoutrements.  Paired with 2008 Benton Lane First Class Pinot Noir, Oregon

Course seven was a dessert course from Chef Julie Petrakas.  It was a Fig Duo: Creme Caramel, Black Mission Fig Compote, Dark Choclate-Brown Turkey Fig Tartlet, Fig-Cardamon Sorbet.  Paired with Taylor Fladgate Tawny Port 40-Year Old, Portugal



By this time I was truly tuckered out (To be truthful, I had blown my wad long before this.).  This had been a truly formidable array of dishes offered up by chefs at the top of their game.  Two of the dishes/pairings which stood out for me were courses four and five.  Course four was special because I did not initially get the rationale of the pairing given the white sauce-red wine combo.  Hidden under all the white, though, was the oxtail tortellini and the lobster mushrooms and they were more than adequate to support the Portuguese red.  On course five, I have eaten goat in the past but in more of a comfort-food style (Curried goat, for example).  This was my first encounter with this gourmet-style presentation of goat and ... I liked it.  All of the pairings worked well in my estimation with the exception of the Black Pepper Shiraz which had a brackish taste and added nothing to the dish.

Midway during the meal, Bill Budzinski of the Elusive Grape announced an upcoming live auction of seats  at their restaurants donated by the participating chefs.  This announcement lent a further dash of excitement and anticipation to the evening's proceedings.  After the meal was completed, Bill proceeded with the auction.  The first offering seemed to take everyone by surprise because, before you knew what was happening, my table mates had "won" at the opening price.  This did not happen again as people warmed to the proceedings.  The most hotly contested offering of the evening was two seats at Cress Restaurant.  The author's wife became involved in a bidding war with two other tables which was only terminated by having all six of us agree to a joint dinner which would also be attended by Chef and his wife and Bill and his wife.  A welcome relief.

Post the auction, all of the chefs and the kitchen staff were brought out to take a bow.  Chef Pulapaka thanked them for their support and thanked the attendees for thier participation.  The chefs were all very gracious in their concluding remarks.

All-in-all a very successful evening: the event raised $13,500 for charity; the guests had an enervating evening where they went away satisfied and with a feeling of having done something good; the participating chefs seemed to have had a good time; Chef Pulapaka represented his abode and his constituents admirably; and the small kitchen did not in any way restrain the artistry and creative forces of these dynamic chefs.