The #Winelover Group chose Romania as the venue for its 14th Anniversary Celebration and the single strongest, most organized community in the group -- Romania Winelovers -- made the arrangements that ensured the highest degree of success for the event. Under the leadership of the late Razvan Stonescu, this group put together a stellar program focused on the region and wines of Dealu Mare, one of the most-celebrated of the Romanian wine regions.
And like Pheidippides -- who, after the victory at Marathon, undertook the run to share the news with the people of Athens -- Razvan left us at his high point. I intend to honor Razvan and his team, and the producers who shared their time with us, by reporting as extensively as possible on our experiences during the course of the celebration.
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| The late Razvan Stonescu and his indomitable spouse (Source: Iulian Grigorescu) |
One of the events that was organized was a tasting of Feteascǎ Neagrǎ wines from Dealu Mare producers that we would not be able to visit during our time there. I will report on the wines and the tasting but begin herein with a description of the physical characteristics of the Dealu Mare wine region and a briefing on the variety.
The Dealu Mare Wine Region
The chart below is a representation of the region.
The chart shows the region extending over two political jurisdictions (Prahova and Buzāu) and having eight sub-regions. The physical dimensions are shown in the blue oblong. The grape growers -- along with their approximate physical locations -- are identified on the chart.
Based on archaeological evidence, grapes have been grown in the Dealu Mare region deep in prehistory. The first written reference to grapes and wines of the region can be traced back to the 14th and 15th centuries.
According to SERVE, Dealu Mare is one of the warmest wine-growing regions in Romania with a prominent continental influence characterized by:
- hot, dry summers
- long autumns
- Short, cold winters
- Day-night temperature differences which allow sugar accumulation without significant acid loss.
The chart below spells out the distribution of soils across the region.
The dominant soils are clayey-calcareous with marl, löess and gravel inclusions. These soils provide good drainage and balanced water-retention capacity, characteristics that are essential for successful cultivation of the Feteascǎ Neagrä variety (SERVE).
Feteascǎ Neagrǎ Variety
Feteascǎ Neagrǎ (translates to Black Maiden) is a thick-skinned, dark-purple grape variety which is believed to have originated in historic Moldavia but is today broadly planted in Romania with over 3400 ha of vineyard land dedicated to its support. Synonyms for the variety include: Schwarze Madchentraube, Poama Fata nera, Pasǎreascǎ nera, Coada radunicii, Fetyaska (Azerbaijan), Fetiaska neagra (Serbia) Fekete léanuke (Hungary), and Fetaska neagra (Bulgaria).
The variety is recognizable by its compact, cylindrical-spherical clusters; medium-to-large spherical berries; and dark purple skin. It is a late-ripener and, over a long growing season, can accumulate high sugar levels -- 230 to 240 g/l -- while retaining high levels of acidity.
The vine is vigorous but has low productivity -- on the order of 30%. It is resistant to frost, drought, and rot but is extremely susceptible to powdery mildew. Strategies employed to combat the threat include directing shoots and aerating rows. Roses are planted at the end of rows as an early warning system.
The soil types described in the section above are essential for Feteascǎ Neagrǎ cultivation (SERVE):
- The variety is sensitive to excess production and canopy humidity
- The wines cam become diluted in compact or overly fertile soils
- Concentrates polyphenols and develops a solid tannin structure in well-drained soils.
One of the key characteristics of the variety is its "plasticity." "It does not impose a uniform identity, but amplifies that of its place." While the generic profile is of a balanced, medium-to-full-bodied wine with fine tannins and aromas and flavors of plums, blackberries, blueberries, vanilla and coffee, "Banat carries a freshness that southern Mutenian examples rarely achieve ... Transylvania ... Feateascǎ Neagrǎ produces wines with livelier acidity and more clearly defined fruit."
Feteascǎ Neagrǎ requires (SERVE):
- Maturity of the plantation
- Strict yield control
- Careful canopy management
- Precise interventions at key moments of the season.
"In favorable years, Feteascǎ Neagrǎ from Dealu Mare develops high color density, structure, and real aging potential."
I will next turn to the producers and the wines.
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