Erbamat: Franciacorta's climate-change mitigator

I have previously written a post on the Franciocorta wine region and a series of posts comparing the wines from Champagne, Prosecco, Franciacorta, and Cava:

Part I -- Origins
Part II -- Regulatory histories
Part III -- Macro-Level characteristics

Part IV -- Production zones

Part V -- The vineyards
Part VI -- Fermentation and aging
Part VII -- Wine styles
Part VIII -- The nonconformists
Part IX -- Production levels and markets

Part X -- The Future

This demonstrated interest garnered me an invitation to a recent tasting of a selection of the region's wines held at the Miami Culinary Institute.

It had been a while since I had visited the detailed characteristics of the Franciacorta wine so I was rather surprised when Mr Silvano Brescianini, the President of the Franciacorta Consorzio, mentioned a grape called Erbamat as one of the constituent varieties. To the best of my knowledge, the mix was Chardonnay, Pinot Nero, and Pinot Bianco but, according to Mr. Brescianini, Erbamat could contribute as much as 10% of a blend. Some research was in order.

That research has revealed that Erbamat is a high-acid, late-ripening white grape that is native to the region and with a history that stretches back to circa 1500. The cultivar had slipped into obscurity until a recent study by a university professor highlighted its characteristics.

When compared to Champagne, Franciacorta is riper, fuller, and rounder, the result of a warmer growing environment -- and the resultant riper fruit (Champagne has about 1000 growing degree days while Franciacorta experiences approximately 1500). Further, climate change is causing the region's grapes to ripen earlier. In the 1980s, for example, Chardonnay was picked in early September; today, the warmer parts of the zone begin picking that variety in late July.

Erbamat is seen as potentially mitigating the ripeness and climate effects of the region. Its primary characteristics are as follows (Aldo Fiordelli, Decanter, 3/21/17):

• Pale straw color with greenish tinge
• Thin skin
• Compact bunches
• Late ripening (20 - 30 days after other varieties)
• Higher levels of malic acid (produces lean-bodied, high-acid wines)
• Low sugar production (low alcohol wines).

The thin skin and tight bunches render the grapes subject to disease pressure but that risk is more than offset by the freshness, white florality, and chalky minerality which this wine brings to the blend. The variety is allowed in all of the Franciacorta styles with the exception of Satén.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme