The wines of Hidden Bench Estate Winery (Beamsville, Ontario, Canada)

Hidden Bench Estate Winery pursues terroir-driven wines and, as such, farms organically and adheres to a strict non-interventionist policy in the cellar.

Grapes are picked by hand (as late as possible) and placed into 10 kg containers for transport to the winery. The white grapes are sorted and then whole-bunch-pressed before being placed in stainless steel tanks for fermentation. Sulphur is added to the tanks to combat oxidation.

The red grapes are bunch-sorted  and then de-stemmed before a berry-level sorting. Pinot Noir grapes are cold-soaked for 8 to 10 days for additional extraction. The red grapes are fermented with indigenous yeasts in oak and stainless steel fermenters.

Each vineyard block is fermented and aged individually. The red wines are aged in oak (20 - 30% new) and blended at the end of the aging period. The blended wine is then placed into stainless steel tanks in order to facilitate integration.

The estate produces two Rieslings: Roman's Block and Felseck Vineyard. We tasted the 2014 edition of the former and it was austere with notes of petrol and citrus and a distinct mineral character. Bright, sharp, and saline on the palate with a lengthy lime finish. The 2015 Felseck Vineyard showed tropical fruit notes (papaya), pimento, and a hint of petrol. More ample on the palate than the Roman's block. These Rieslings were lighter-bodied and less concentrated than your average Mosel Riesling.

The 2016 Nuit Blanche is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc (94%) and Semillon (6%) made with grapes sourced from the Rosomel Vineyard. Intended as a Bourdeaux-type white, the wine is aged in 13% new oak. Mushroom, white flower, pear, apple, and beeswax on the nose. Pear and apple characteristics carry through to the palate. Rich and mineral.

We tasted two Chardonnays: Tête de Cuvée and the Estate. The latter is made from grapes drawn from all three vineyards with 7% of the resulting wine aged in concrete egg and the remainder aged in 17% new oak. Aging extends over 9 months. Apple, pear, clay, mineral notes on the nose and rich, ripe fruit on the palate. The Tête de Cuvée is made from the 10 best barrels drawn from the Rosomel Vineyard. Oily and non-aromatic. Great weight on the palate.

The first red wine tasted was the 2016 Estate Pinot Noir. This is a blend of grapes from all three vineyards. The wine was aged in 27% new French oak and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Pinot fruit and spice on the nose, red berries and spice on the palate. Light-bodied.

The 2015 Rosomel Vineyard Pinot Noir was aged in 20% new French oak. Rich cherries and berries on the nose along with spice. Good concentration.

The 2014 Locust Lane Pinot Noir was deeper and richer than the preceding two. Dark berries, plum, earth, floral notes and spice on the nose. Intense dark cherry and anise on the palate. Concentrated.

The 2013 Terroir Caché is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is aged in 20% new French oak for 20 months and is then bottled unfined and unfiltered. Blackberries, plum, cassis on the nose and dark fruit on the palate. Light-bodied and not as structured as I would have liked.

Overall I found the wines of this estate to be of high quality. So much so that I bought an assorted case to take back to the US. I am especially enamored of the Chardonnays.

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