Mapping the sparkling wines of Italy: Mount Etna's Murgo Winery

Writing in a 2019 Forbes article, the wine writer Tom Hyland noted that Sicily produces some fine examples of sparkling wine but, in his estimation, "the finest sparkling wines from Sicily ... are produced by Murgo."

Murgo is the Mt.-Etna-based agricultural estate founded in 1981 on family historical property by the diplomat Baron Emanuele Scammacca del Murgo. I recently spoke to one of his eight sons -- Michele -- about the estate and its sparkling wines. I report on that InstagramLive Chat in this post.

The author and Michele Scammacca
in an InstagramLive Chat

According to Michele, the family can trace its history on the property back to 1860 but the first still wine was not bottled there until 1982 and the first sparkling wine in 1989. Given his father's diplomatic responsibilities, the family resided away from the estate. Michele was the first member of his immediate family to come back to Sicily when he came to the island after finishing school. Today, four of the eight brothers work in the family enterprise which encompasses wine, olive oil, a hotel, and a restaurant.

The 35-ha Tenuta San Michele estate is located at 500 m up on the eastern side of Mt Etna. This area, due to the high levels of rainfall, is well-suited to the growth of grapes for the production of sparkling wine; red wines from this area are less concentrated than red wines from other parts of the mountain. The estate is planted 50% red grapes and 50% white, with Catarratto and Carricante plantings making up the white contingent.

Michele sees Nerello Mascalese as a great grape for sparkling wine production as it can be aged on its lees for a long time. Nerello Mascalese as a sparkling wine is not very interesting if not aged on the lees for a certain period. Given the early drinking requirements of sparkling wines produced using the Charmat method, Nerello Mascalse is not a good fit for this process. In Michele's view, there are too many Charmats in the market for Murgo to compete successfully in that space. They cannot compete, for example, with the ubiquity and low cost of Prosecco.

In response to one of my questions, Michele expressed some reservations as to the use of Carricante in a sparkling wine. In his view, Carricante is a light wine with not enough concentration to meet the requirements of a sparkling wine. Nerello Mascalese has more structure and thus is better suited. In addition, Murgo, as an estate, does not have a lot of Carricante.

Murgo its constantly improving both its product and marketing. When they first started, there was no market for sparkling wine from Etna; now (prior to the lockdown), they are selling 100,000 bottles annually.

In the early days, sparkling wines were only used for special events and celebrations. Now it is being used as an aperitivo. Another of the myths that Murgo's success has debunked is that you can only make Metodo Classico sparkling wines in the north of Italy. Nerello has great compatibility for sparkling wine due, in great part, to its acidity. Some producers in the south have attempted to use Chardonnay in this role but, when picked early, it produces a wine that is soft and round. And softness covers everything -- including terroir -- in a sparkling wine.

Etna is a unique terroir for growing sparkling wine grapes, endowed as it is with volcanic soil plus high elevation. The soil gives high minerality to the wines. There is no limestone in the Etna soils so the wines are lighter, but with great acidity

Murgo produces four sparkling wines: Brut, Brut Rosé, Extra Brut, and Extra Brut Rosé. Grapes for these wines are a combination of estate and purchased fruit. All grapes are hand-picked two weeks prior to maturity (at this time the acidity is high and potential alcohol between 11.2 and 11.5) and transported to the winery where they are pressed (gently) and fermented in stainless steel tanks. The base wines reside in the SS tanks for 7 to 8 months before being placed in bottles for secondary fermentation.

Th Brut wines spend between 1.5 and 2.5 years on the lees while the Extra Brut spends between 7 and 8 years and the Extra Brut Rosé approximately 4 years. The Brut and Brut Rosé are dosed at 4 g/L while the Extra Brut wines are zero dosage.

The Murgo Brut can be drunk in every situation, says Michele. It has the biggest market position of the Murgo wines because of its price and its fruitiness. Italians, according to Michele, prefer fruitiness in their sparkling wines.

The Brut Rosé is very fruity. It can be used as an aperitif but its good structure means that it can also be used with food. Tuna tartare with Brut Rosé is a great pairing.

The Extra Brut presents delicate sensations of evolution, a nice perlage, good balancing with the acidity the softness and the minerality coming from the terroir. Here you can feel the potential of the Nerello Mascalese sparkling wine.

The Murgo wines are more like Trento DOC and Alta Langa DOC sparkling wines, and less like Franciacorta, due to its acidity. Michele personally prefers wines with more acidity.

The vintages that he likes: 2017 for the Brut and Brut Rosé; 2011 for the Extra Brut; and 2014 for the Extra Brut Rosé.


©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Mapping the Sparkling wines of Italy: Sicilia

Sicily is both Italy's southernmost region and the largest island in the Mediterranean. "Blessed with consistently bright sunshine and reliably moderate rainfall, Sicily's classic Mediterranean climate is ideally suited to the production of wine grapes. The warm, dry climate means that mildews and rots are kept to a minimum, particularly in well-ventilated areas that benefit from coastal breezes. This low disease pressure means that chemical sprays are hardly needed, so much Sicilian wine is produced from organic grapes" (wine-searcher.com).

According to Nesto and di Savino (The World of Sicilian Wine), the island is 15% flat, 60% hilly, and 25% mountainous, a situation resulting from the slow contraction of the vast ocean lying between the land masses of Africa and Eurasia. This contraction, especially over the past 50 years, has pushed up the cretaceous limestone seabed -- formed by a mixture of mud, skeletons, and shells of marine organisms deposited over eons -- to form the mountains and hills that we see today. The below figure summarizes the distribution of parent rock and soils on the island.

Sicily's modern quality wine industry was launched in the 1960s, precipitated by events such as the consulting work of Ezio Rivello, the contributions of Diego Planeta, the rise of family wineries, the influence of Giacomo Tachis (the enologist who had risen to fame through his work with Antinori properties), investments from the North, the rise of Etna, and appellation status for the broader region.

The figure below shows the DOC sparkling wines of Sicily.

In a May 22, 2019, Forbes article on Italian sparkling wines, Tom Hyland stated thusly:

Given that the climate of Sicily is warm, you wouldn't expect sparkling wine to be produced here, but there are some very fine examples. A few producers in the Etna zone are crafting some beautifully rendered metodo classico cuvées, including Planeta, Terraze dell'Etna and Murgo. The wines vary from Planeta's 100% Carricante version to several offerings each from the latter two producers. Terraze dell'Etna produces two offerings of Brut made entirely from Chardonnay, with one being aged on its lees for 50 months, and they also produce two different Rosé Brut, again with one being aged for 50 months on the lees; the rosés are made from 90% Pinot Nero and 10% Nerello Mascalese. ... The finest sparkling wines from Sicily in my mind are produced by Murgo.

Murgo is the Mt.-Etna-based agricultural estate founded in 1981 on family historical property by the diplomat Baron Emanuele Scarammacca del Murgo. I recently spoke to one of his eight sons -- Michele -- about the estate and its sparkling wines and teh entirety of that conversation can be found here.

During a tasting with Salvo Foti, noted Etnean Enologist, I was treated to a 2014 Vinudilice Metodo Classico. This was a stunning sparkling wine but, unfortunately it is not made every year. This wine is made with grapes sourced from Vigna Bosco, a vineyard nestled within the depths of a holly oak forest 1300 meters up on Mt. Etna. The vineyard lays claim to being the highest in Europe. The varieties planted here are Alicante, Grecanico, Minella, and some other unidentified varieties. This is the best sparkling wine I have tasted on the mountain to date: Fresh and attention-grabbing with a mouth-filling mousse and great persistence.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Mapping the Sparkling Wines of Italy: Basilicata and Calabria

The relative paucity of sparkling wine DOCs in the respective regions argues for combining Basilicata and Calabria into a single post.

Basilicata is 47% mountain, 45% hills and 8% flat lands. It is home to a total of four DOCs and is best known for its red wines made from Aglianico, a thick-skinned, high-acid grape which flourishes in the area around Mount Vulture. The Aglianico del Vulture wine was granted DOC status in 1971.

Vineyards in the Aglianico del Vulture region enjoy more sunshine hours than any other region in the world, with the best sites located on southeast slopes at elevations ranging between 300 and 500 m (the DOC laws stipulate altitudes between 200 and 700 m). Temperatures are lower at higher altitudes and this prevents grape sugar levels from rising too quickly.

Calabria was decimated by Phylloxera in the late 19th century and has not fully recovered. The region is less than 10% flat and this mountainous character has led to fragmented land ownership and widely dispersed vineyard zones.

The climate is warm and dry and the soils in the hills are of volcanic origin.

The sparkling wine map of the two zones is presented below.

The maps show only four, widely dispersed DOC zones in Basilicata and a greater number of (still widely dispersed) DOC zones in Calabria. Each of the two regions have two sparkling wine zones with the Calabrian Terre di Cosenza DOC occupying most of the upper half of the region.

The DOC sparkling wines in the two regions are stipulated metodo classico. In the case of Basilicata, the sparkling wines are both varietal, with the Matera Spumante made from Malvasia. The Aglianico del Vultura Spumante is a red sparkler made from grapes harvested earlier in the season to retain the acidity and freshness. This wine is made in both dry and sweet styles.


©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Mapping the Sparkling Wines of Italy: Puglia

The Salento Peninsula of Puglia is the heel of the thigh-high boot that one can envision when looking at a map of peninsular Italy. Puglia can be divided into north and south by an imaginary line running between Brindisi, on the Adriatic Sea, and Taranto, on its namesake gulf (which separates the heel of the boot from its platform).

The northern and southern portions of the region are culturally, geographically, and climatically different. The north is less flat, has a more temperate climate (it can be cool in some parts of the Murge plateau), and is more aligned with the customs and winemaking processes of central Italy. The south, on the other hand, is flatter, has a Mediterranean climate, and "retains a strong connection with its Greco-Roman past."

Overall, the region can be characterized as having a Mediterranean climate with cooling sea breezes.

Puglia is a major contributor to the Italian agricultural economy with olive trees, wheat fields, and vineyards adorning its surface. It is responsible for 50% of Italy's olive oil production and is second only to Veneto in wine production; that wine has been mostly red and has garnered a reputation for poor quality, suitable only for blending with wines from the regions to its north. As the world has pursued wines of quality, Puglian winemakers have sought to improve the quality of its red wines through technology advancements, yield reduction, and increased attention to indigenous varieties.

While red wine are oh so dominant in the region, two whites merit mention (especially seeing as how we are writing about the sparkling wines of the region): (i) Bombino Bianco is a versatile, high-acid grape with a lean bouquet which "yields excellent classic method sparkling wines;" (ii) Verdeca, an indigenous variety which produces full-bodied wines that had been used primarily in the making of Vermouth, has now been getting a second look as the source of quality white wines.

The sparkling wine map of Puglia is presented below.

Some observations:

• Fully 75% of the sparkling wine appellations are in the region's more southerly provinces
• The most intense sparkling wine label versatility occurs in three proximate DOCs: Brindisi, Squinzano, and Salice Salento
• Those three DOCs have similar varietal sparkling wine labels but Brindisi and Squinzano have higher varietal content requirements than does Salice Salento
• The Chardonnay grape is the most ubiquitous sparkling wine component.

Puglia is truly red wine country.


©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Sparkling wines of Piemonte: Villa Sparina Metodo Classico Blanc de Blanc (Gavi DOCG)

In that I am currently writing a series on Italian sparkling wines, I want to taste as broad a range of those wines as possible but it is especially tough to acquire them in Central Florida. As I was calling around yesterday, I found that Tim's Wine Market (Downtown) had bottles of Villa Sparina Metodo Classico Blanc de Blanc in stock; I hightailed it over there immediately to acquire a bottle for tasting purposes.

Villa Sparina is produced at the Villa Sparina Resort and Winery, located in Monterotondo, the heart of Piemonte's Gavi DOCG. The facility was founded by the Moccagatta family in the 1970s. The location of the DOCG and the winery are shown in the following two slides.

The estate sits on 100 ha, 70 of which are dedicated to grapes for the production of Gavi and Barbera.

Monterotondo is a cru for the Cortese grape of Gavi, the grape that is the basis for the Villa Sparina Metodo Classico Brut. The grapes are grown in vineyards resident at 250 - 300m altitude with mainly south and southwest exposures and soils of clay and marl. The vines are trained Guyot and are planted 4000 vines/ha density.

The grapes for the base wine are fermented in stainless steel tanks over a 3-week period. Second fermentation is carried out in bottles with the wine spending 36 months on its lees.

The wine had an initial breadfruit nose upon opening which gave way to a sweet white flower/fruit, citrus, citrus skin, pineapple and a steadily increasing pepper spice. Peach on the palate with a lemony-lime acidity. Medium weight, not as crisp as I prefer. Sparing, emaciated bubbles. Mineral persistence -- chalky clay -- on the palate. Short finish. The taste profile falls somewhere between a Franciacorta and a Prosecco; shaded towards the Prosecco end of the spectrum.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Mapping the DOC sparkling wines of Abruzzo and Molise

In my quest to map the sparkling DOC(G) wines of Italy I have completed overviews of the sparkling wines of North and Central Italy and will now turn to the southern sparklers, beginning with the wines of Abruzzo and Molise.

Why do you treat these two regions together you ask? First, they were a single political unit from the time of the Kingdom of Naples, only splitting into two with the carving out of the province of Campobasso in 1963 to form the region of Molise. Second, they only have three (Abruzzo) and one (Molise) DOC sparkling-wine zones.

Both regions are mountainous, with mountain regions accounting for 65% of available lands and serving to keep rainstorms and inclement weather from the west at bay. Storms from the east do bring significant rainfall to the regions from time to time. The climate is temperate in areas facing the Adriatic Sea and continental in the areas facing the Apennines.

While Abruzzo is known for its red wines from the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo cultivar, Molise is "the most obscure of the Italian wine regions." In discussing the regions in two separate Vinous articles, Ian D'Agata made the following observations:

• They produce too many inexpensive wines that are little or no better than generic bulk wine and should not be bottled
• The bad white wines are insipid, tart, thin, ... fruit-challenged
• The less successful reds are downright caricatural, overly smoky, overly ripe, and overly oaked
• 75% of Abruzzo wine is made by 40 different Coops.

Ian sees some hope on the horizon though:

• A new generation of viticulturists and winemakers are joining the family wineries and improving the quality of those wines
• Many Abruzzo estates are seeking vineyards higher up in the mountains in an effort to improve grape quality.

The key to "vinous bliss," as he sees it, is to know who are the best producers in each of the regions.

The chart below shows the sparkling wine zones in Abruzzo (topmost figure) and Molise.

Some observations:

• Limited number of DOC sparkling wine zones in each of the regions
• Very little overlap in the indigenous grapes utilized in the production of sparkling wines in the two regions
• Primarily cuvées in Abruzzo while Molise permits a broad array of varietal sparkling wines.

Not much to see here. My next stop on this journey will be in Campania.


©Wine -- Mise en abyme

An overview of the sparkling wines of Northern Italy

Over the last few months I have been engaged in a project to map all of the DOC(G) sparkling wines of Italy. To date I have published posts on the sparkling wines of 12 of the 20 Italian regions. I have decided to pause at this time and take a look back at the grouping of wines that fall into the regions comprising Northern Italy.

The map below captures all of the DOC(G) wine zones in Northern Italy. Sparkling wine zones in Northern Italy range from one in Valle d'Aosta to 25 in Veneto. Most of the zones are DOC with a total of 14 DOCG zones. Piemonte and Veneto have the greatest number of DOCG sparkling wine zones with six and five, respectively.

The spreadsheet below shows the grape varieties used in sparkling wines segmented by region. A total of 99 varieties are employed in sparkling wine production in Northern Italy, ranging from a low of one in Valle d'Aosta to 49 in Emilia Romagna. The average is 12.375 varieties per region.



International varieties are the most broadly distributed across the regions with Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Nero, and Pinot Grigio each being used in six of the eight regions and Merlot in five. This fact highlights the fact that producers largely utilize regional indigenous varieties in making sparkling wines in their individual regions.

Following is a brief summary of the sparkling wines of each of the Northern Italian regions.

Piemonte Sparkling Wines
While the region is best known for its Nebbiolo grapes, and the resulting Barolo and Barbaresco wines, the below map shows that many of the appellations provide frameworks for the production of sparkling wine.

In most of the cases, the dominant DOC variety serves as the source material. If the producer does desire to do so, he/she could also utilize the much more forgiving Piemonte DOC for sparkling wine production. The map shows the designation under which sparkling wine is produced in each region and specifies the mix of allowed varieties and their relative proportions. The map also illustrates which wines are made via the Charmat Method and which use the traditional Champagne Method.

Asti DOCG is by far the largest sparkling wine appellation in Piemonte with 9700 ha under vine in 52 municipalities stretching across the provinces of Alessandria, Asti, and Cuneo. Most Asti production is via the Charmat method but, as the map shows, there is a designation for Asti Metodo Classico. The Moscato Bianco grape is used as the raw material for the Asti wine.

Alta Langa -- DOC in 2002, DOCG in 2011 -- is the new kid on the sparkling-wine block but the combination of its terroir, traditional Champagne varieties, traditional production method, skilled growers, and savvy producers bode well for the future. The Alta Langa DOCG is spread over 142 communes in the provinces of Alessandria, Asti, and Cuneo. Given the geographic scope of the region, one encounters a variety of climates, exposures, elevations and soil types. In general, the soil is a mildly fertile calcareous clay marl.

Vineyards are required to be planted at 250 m and above on the region's steep, terraced hillsides. Allowed varieties are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and other non-aromatic grapes. Planting density is a minimum of 4000 vines/ha with the vines trained using the low espalier system and pruned traditional Guyot and spurred cordon. The maximum allowed yield is 11,000 kg/ha.

The Alta Langa producers -- 27 currently -- do not grow enough fruit to meet their needs but that gap is bridged with fruit from 80 growers who own their land and are guaranteed producer-payment for their grapes and labor.

Trentino-Alto Adige Sparkling Wines
The map below shows the sparkling wine regions of Trentino-Alto Adige.

Alto Adige DOC
I have written about the broader Alto Adige DOC elsewhere.

According to suedtirolersekt.it, "As a result of its overall climatic conditions, the abundance of microclimates, and the composition of the soils between the Alpine mountain landscape and Mediterranean valley soils, Alto Adige is virtually ideal for the production of sparkling wines." The key characteristics (as identified by the source) are as follows:

• Locations from 500 to 1000 m
• Abundant sun during the day
• Cool temperatures during the night
• Warm soils rich in minerals
• Base wine varieties (Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay) with an affinity for the characteristic soils.

Trento DOC
Trento DOC is the specific appellation for sparkling wine produced in the Trento portion of Trento-Alto Adige. As is the case in Alto Adige, the wine is made using the Metodo Classico.

According to Kerin O'Keefe, the sparkling wines of this region show "pronounced aromatics, elegance, and bright acidity." Two producers that she recommends are Ferrari (2010 Perlé Nero Extra Brut Riserva) and Rotari (2011 Flavio Brut Riserva).

Approximately 7,500,000 bottles of sparkling wine are produced in this region annually.

Delle Venezie DOC
This region specializes in the production of Pinot Grigio in an area spanning the totality of Friuli-Venezia Guilia, Veneto, and the Trento province of the autonomous Trento-Alto Adige region. The raisons d'etre of this expansive region are (i) proximity and (ii) pedi-climatic affinity. The wide plain between the Adriatic Sea and the Po River has been "developed over centuries by deposition of both calcareous and coarse material and gravel and sand" and also has good drainage capability.

The proximity to the Alps results in a cool and windy climate which contributes to high acid retention in the grapes, a characteristic of the wines. Water is limited but is sufficient for a regular ripening of the grapes.

The sparkling wines must be tank-fermented and must contain no more than 32 g/L of residual sugar.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia Sparkling Wines
Friuli-Venezia Giulia, the most north-eastern of the Italian wine regions, is bounded by Austria to the north, the Gulf of Trieste to the South, Slovenia to the east, and the wine region of Veneto to the west. The region's location, as well as its history, has endowed it with a richness of diverse cultural influences.

Prosecco DOC

The Prosecco DOC was first awarded in 1969 and was restricted to wines produced in the Conegliano-Valdiobbadene region.  Growers felt that the brand was under attack by "imitators" using just the grape variety and moved to isolate those competitors by changing both the rules and the venue of the game.  Prosecco growers agitated for, and gained regulatory acceptance of: (i) extension of the Prosecco DOC to cover all of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia and approximately two-thirds of Veneto; (ii) promotion of the original Prosecco DOC to DOCG status; (iii) changing the name of the source grape from Prosecco to Glera; and (iv) restricting the use of the name Prosecco only to Glera sparkling wines produced within the delimited zones.  The growers felt that these actions would serve to protect their territory, the brand, and the quality of Prosecco.  The regulations authorizing these actions came into law in 2009.

Prosecco is primarily made from the Glera (formerly Prosecco; also known as Prosecco Bianco and Proseko Sciprina) grape variety, a native of northeast Italy which has been used to produce wines since Roman times.  This late-ripening, thick-skinned variety has greenish-yellow berries which evolve to a yellow-gold color as the grapes ripen.  The grapes are high in acid and have a white peach aromatic profile, qualities which render them eminently suitable for the production of sparkling wines.

In addition to Glera, Prosecco wines can contain as much as 15% of other grape varieties.  The most oft-used supplements are Verdiso, Branchetta, Perera, Glera Lunga, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio, and Chardonnay.

Prosecco DOC wines are authorized for production in Friuli-Venezia-Giulia and Veneto (provinces of Treviso, Belluna, Padova, Venezia, and Vicenzia).  Within the broader Prosecco DOC, there are two sub-zones: DOC Treviso Prosecco and Prosecco di Trieste. These sub-zones cover Prosecco made within these two provinces and wines made therein can so indicate on their labels.  Prosecco wines made in other provinces cannot carry the province name on the labels.

Valle d'Aosta Sparkling Wine
Valle d'Aosta (Vallée d"Aoste in French), is a semi-autonomous region in northwest Italy which is bounded to the north, west, and south by the Alps and shares borders with both France and Switzerland.

DOC sparkling wine production is only allowed in the Morgex and La Salle subzone and, as such, is made from 100% Prié Blanc. Hundreds of tiny old vineyard plot -- a total of 70 ha -- dot the two communes and provide fruit to the five growers and the Coop.

Two of the most notable sparkling wine producers in the region are Caves Mont Blanc and Ermes Pavese. Caves Mont Blanc is a Coop that controls 18 ha through its 80 grower-owners. It is the foremost producer of Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle. It produces a Brut and Extra Brut with the difference being a 15-month bottle aging for the former and 17 months of the latter. Ermes Pavese produces between 700 and 1200 bottles of its zero dosage sparkler only in riper years. According to Madrose, this sparkling wine is "as unusual as it is delicious, ... at once rich and quite dry, speaking clearly of its Alpine origin, with delicate smokiness and lemon curd on the nose and full earthy minerality on the palate."

These are small-production wines that are difficult to obtain outside the market.

Lombardia Sparkling Wines
As shown in the chart below, there are eight DOC(G) sparkling wine appellations in Lombardia.

Two of these appellations (Franciacorta DOCG and Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico) are (i) sparkling-wine specific and (ii) utilize the Champagne method in the production process. In addition, Oltrepò Pavese DOC and Sangue di Giuda DOC are Charmat, with the remaining appellations accomodating either the Charmat or Metodo Classico methods.

With the exception of Riviera del Garda Classico DOC and Sangue di Giuda DOC, all appellations provide for a white sparkling wine. With the exception of Lugana DOC, Sangue di Giuda DOC, and Terre del Colleoni, all regions provide for the production of a Rosé. With the exception of Franciacorta, Lugana, and Riviera del Garda Classico, all regions allow for the production of varietal sparkling wines. Sangue di Giuda DOC is the only region that specifies a red sweet sparkling wine.

Franciacorta, Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico, and Terre del Colleoni allow for the production of vintage-dated sparklers while, in addition, Franciacorta and Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico allow for production of Riservas. Vintage-dated and Riserva sparkling wines are required to spend more time on the lees.

A total of 25 varieties are authorized for sparkling wine production across the region; many of these varieties are utilized in one or two applications. The almost ubiquitous varieties are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Banco, and Pinot Grigio.

Veneto Sparkling Wines
Veneto is the ancestral home of Prosecco, the Italian sparkler of the day, but it is also home to wide range of other, mostly unheralded sparkling wines.

The two charts following map the distribution of sparkling wines in Veneto. Of 14 DOCGs, five produce sparkling wines (and three of those are sweet); of 29 DOCs, 20 produce one or more sparkling wines.

There are two sparkling-wine-only appellations: Lissini Durello and Vigneti della Serenissima DOCs. The dominant method of sparkling-wine production is Charmat. A total of four appellations are shared with neighboring regions: Garda and Lugana DOCs with Lombardia; Prosecco DOC with Friuli-Venezia Giulia; and Delle Venezie DOC with Trento and Friuli-Venezia Giulia.

Emilia-Romagna Sparkling Wines
With 136,000 acres under vine, Emilia-Romagna is the second-largest wine-producing region in Italy after Veneto. The largest wine-producing areas in the region are found in the alluvial plains but the wines from the foothills are attracting attention.

Of the 21 official Emilia-Romagna appellations (2 DOCGs, 19 DOCs), 10 (one DOCG and nine DOCs) provide at least one label under which sparkling wine can be produced. In a number of cases -- Colli di Parma DOC and Colli Piacentini DOC, for example -- the availability of varietal-specific labels provides the producer with the potential to offer between four and six separate sparkling wines.

The biggest concentration of sparkling wine production occurs in the area between Reggio Emilio in the northwest and Bologna, with the Lambrusco zone around Modena serving as the beating heart of this geographic range.

In terms of production methods, 10 of the available labels are Charmat-only while two follow the Champenoise method. All of the other labels allow for the use of both methods based on the producer's preference.

Liguria Sparkling Wines
As shown in the chart below, sparkling wine is produced in the Val Polcèvera and Golfo del Tigullio - Portofino DOCs.

In both of these DOCs, Bianchetto Genovese and Vermentino are featured players while a variety called Albarola is additionally given prominence in Val Polcèvera DOC. It should be noted that a 2009 DNA study has concluded that Albarola and Bianchetto Genovese are genetically identical.

Abissi Sparkling Wine
Bisson Winery has been aging its Metodo Classico wines in 60 meters of water off the coast of Portofino since 2005. The wines -- there are three of them: Spumante Classico, Spumante Riserva, and Spumante Rosé -- are fermented traditionally to produce the base wines and are then bottled and lowered into the sea in July so that the second fermentation can be completed in the anaerobic conditions below the surface of the water.

The Spumante Classico and Riserva are blends of Bianchetto Genovese, Vermentino, and a third cultivar called Cimixià. The Rosé is a blend of Granaccia and Ciliegiolo.

The innovative method of aging is the brainchild of Pierluigi Lugano, the enterprise's winemaker. "When the wine bottles are picked up, they are enriched with incrustations (sic), seaweeds (and sometimes shellfishes, too) ... For health and sanitary reasons, bottles are then dried and wrapped under a protective, clear film, which also serves the purpose of preserving the natural ornament made by the sea,"

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

The DOC sparkling wines of Italy's Lazio region

Lazio, the second most populous (5.9 million people) and second largest economy (170 Billion Euro GDP) of Italy's 20 regions, boasts Rome -- Italy's largest city -- as its capital, the same role it fulfills for the country as a whole. Rome is the center of Italian political -- seat of Government and Parliament -- and religious -- home of the Vatican -- life.

The economy of Lazio spans agriculture (wine grapes, fruits, vegetables, olives), craft, animal husbandry, fishing, and a limited industrial sector but fully 73% of its working population is employed in the services sector supporting government offices and corporate HQs. Tourism associated with the Roman and Etruscan (along the Northern Tuscany border) civilizations is also an important contributor to the economy of the region.

Lazio is comprised of mountains (26.1%), hills (54%), and plains (19.9%) and is, according to Vinous' Ian D'Agata, uniquely suited to viticulture:

• Mild climate
• Rich and varied geological mix of soils (well-drained volcanic soils prevalent)
• Marine breezes
• Adequate rainfall
• Pronounced diurnal temperature shifts
• Plethora of high-quality native grape varieties.

But, until recently, the region has only been known for light white wines suited to immediate consumption. Quality-focused winemakers have, within the last two decades, sought to improve the image of the wines by pursuing a lighter, crisper style. The main grape varieties planted in the region are Malvasia (30%) and Trebbiano (28%).

The chart below shows the DOC regions which specify requirements for the production of sparkling wines within their appellations.

Some observations:

• Nine of the 30 DOC(G) regions have specifications for the production of sparkling wine
• There is only one case (Circeo DOC and Chardonnay) where an international variety is included in the specifications; otherwise, all indigenous varieties 
• There is some clustering of production in the regions to the southeast of Rome
• For the most part, the specifications do not call for dominant-variety blends
• The Trebbiano variety is the most widely utilized variety in Lazio sparkling wines.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Mapping the DOC sparkling wines of Le Marche (Italy)

The rugged environment of Le Marche provides a landscape that is less suitable for agricultural pursuits than is the case in neighboring Tuscany, Umbria, and Abruzzo, for example. The Apennine range forms the internal border of the region and descends almost to the Adriatic Sea, with arable land and living spaces confined to the river valleys and the coastline. The climate in the region is temperate, with a continental feel inland and Mediterranean along the coast.

At 878,000 hl of wine produced in 2018, Le Marche ranked 13th among Italian regions. Its calcareous soils provide optimal residence for Sangiovese, Trebbiano, Verdicchio, and Montelpuciano, among other varieties.

Given the length of its coastline, seafood is a key part of the Marchian diet. And the diet elevates the importance of white wine in the region, with the Verdecchios from Castelli di Jesi and Matelica having pride of place. Wine from the Pecorino grape is also growing in stature.

Below is a map of the sparkling wines of Le Marche.

Some observations:

• Most of these wines are, given their 85% minimums, in effect, varietal sparkling wines
• Most of the wines are made from indigenous rather than international varieties. The varieties of note are Aleatico, Biancame, Verdicchio, Maceratino, Passerina, and Vernaccia Nera
• Most DOCs allow both Metodo Classico and Charmat production
• A total of three red sparkling wines are produced in the region: Pergola DOC Spumante; San Ginesio DOC Spumante; and Vernaccia di Serrapetrona DOC Spumante.

Now let us turn to some of the most noteworthy sparkling wines from the region.

Vernaccia di Serrapetrona DOCG
This wine has been described as an "idiosyncratic sparkling red wine produced from the local Vernaccia Nera." This territory was granted DOC status in 1971 and elevated to DOCG in 2003. It is one of the smallest classified zones in Italy with only 20 ha of vineyards and 5000 cases produced. Vineyards must be sited between 450 and 600 m elevation.

Other than the fact that it is a sparkling red wine, Vernaccia di Serrapetrona is also unique in its production method: three fermentations. The first fermentation involves up to 60% of the handpicked grapes. The remaining 40% is dried on straw mats and added to the wine in the following January for the second fermentation. After resting for a few months, the wine is placed into pressurized containers where it is fermented using the Charmat method.

The result of this process is "an intensely aromatic wine displaying a raspberry red color, aromas of strawberries and cranberries, a hint of spice, firm tannins and bright acidity,"

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC and Verdecchio di Matelica DOC
These are the two DOCs that are the temples to Verdicchio, with the former being more revered than the latter. The sparkling wines from both regions require a minimum of 85% of the Verdicchio grape and can be made using either the Metodo Classico or Charmat methods.

The grapes for Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi are grown in the hilly areas around the town of Jesi, an area endowed with calcareous clay and limestone-rich soils. The area is blessed with a relatively dry maritime climate with persistent gentle onshore (morning) and offshore (afternoon) winds providing defenses against fungal diseases such as grey rot and mildew.

The Verdicchio di Matelica vineyards are located further inland in more of a continental climate but with soils akin to its compatriot. Vineyard orientation in Matelica is east-to-west, a situation unique to that DOC. A total of 740 ha of vineyards are planted at 400m - 500m elevation.

In his Forbes article on Italian sparkling wines, Tom Hyland identified the Colonnara Tradition Brut as one of the best examples of Verdicchio sparkling wine that he has tasted. The wine, he says, "... offers subdued herbal notes in the finish, along with bright pear and melon fruit."

In that same article, Hyland spoke favorably of a number of Verdicchio/Chardonnay cuvées:

• Poderi Mattioli Dosaggio Zero -- vintage-dated blend that is aged 48 months on its lees
• Umani-Ronchi Extra Brut millesimato -- 65% Verdicchio, 35% Chardonnay
• Umani-Ronchi La Hoz -- 80% Verdicchio, 20% Chardonnay. The Verdicchio is aged in steel while the Chardonnay is aged in mid-sized oak barrels. The wines are aged on lees for 48 months.

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Sparkling wines are produced in nine of the 20 Le Marche DOC(G) regions but, given its ubiquity and regional importance, the one that you encounter in the wild will most probably be Verdicchio-based.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

The DOC sparkling wines of Umbria, Italy

Umbria, one of the smallest of the Italian regions, lies almost dead center on the peninsula and is the only region that does not border on a body of water or a country.

Italian regions map with Umbria as the beating heart of the boot
(Source:sottasoprainc.blogspot.com)

Umbria lies in the cultural and vinous shadows of its northwestern neighbor Tuscany but is renowned in its own right for its lush, rolling hills, its hilltop villages (Assisi, Perugia, Orvieto, Spoleto, Todi, Spello, Gubbio), and unique historic towns.

Assissi

Author and spouse in Umbria

Grapegrowing at Carmine Estate

Looking down on the great Umbrian Valley from the hills 

above Cannara

Umbria's main business activity is agriculture, with olive oil, truffles, sunflowers, and wine grapes as the primary offerings.

The Umbrian climate is continental; cold, rainy winters and dry summers. This climate is modified by the waters of Lake Trasimeno in the area west of Perugia.

Geologic processes through the ages have resulted in the following soils distribution in Umbria:

• Alluvial sediments and debris along major river valleys
• Gravels, sands, and clays deposited during the Pliocene and early Pleistocene
• Marly deposits during the Oligocene - Miocene
• Stratigraphic Umbria-Marche deposits from the Jurassic-Miocene
• In the southwest, volcanic deposits from the eruptions of the Vulsino volcano.

This distribution is illustrated graphically in the figure below.

Schematic geologic map of Umbria.
Blue = Limestone; Gold = Sandstone rocks;
 Yellow = Inter-mountain basins; and
Purple = Volcanic complexes (Source:
Andrea Moti, researchgate.net)

Between 600,000 and 800,000 hl of wine is produced annually, a total that is 1/3 of Tuscany's production and places the region 14th or 15th of the 20 Italian regions. The region is known for its white wines (18% of its wines are from the Orvieto DOC) from the Trebbiano and Grechetto varieties but its only two DOCGs (Sagrantino di Montefalco and Torgianno Rosso Riserva) are red wines made from the Sagrantino and Sangoiovese varieties, respectively. Sangiovese represents 22% of the vine plantings while Trebbiano and Grechetto come in at 17% and 13%, respectively. Most of the vineyards are planted on terraces that have been cut into the hillsides.

As shown in the chart below, Umbria has six sparkling wine DOCs distributed over its surface area.

A few observations:

• None of the major Umbria DOC/DOCGs (Sagrantino de Montefalco DOCG, Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG, and Orvieto DOC) produce any sparkling wine
• A small number of varieties (six) have been formally designated by name for the production of sparkling wine. Only Valle d'Aosta (one) and Liguria (three) have fewer identified sparkling-wine-designated varieties
• A preponderance of the international varieties have been designated as raw material for sparkling wine production in Umbria. Only Spoleto DOC -- of the six sparkling wine DOCs identified in the chart above -- does not specify, by name, one of the international varieties for use in the production of its sparkling wine.
• Three of the sparkling wine DOCs are located in the north of the region, one in the middle, and two in the south.
• Two Metodo-Classico-only DOCs and one Charmat-only DOC. The remaining four DOCs allow a mix of both production methods
• The Spoleto DOC wine could have been designated a varietal sparkling wine.

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In this post I have continued on my path to identify and map each sparkling wine DOC/DOCG in Italy. To date I have completed the mapping of Northern Italy as well as Toscana and Umbria (herein) of Central Italy. My next effort will identify the sparkling wines of Marche.


©Wine -- Mise en abyme

The DOC sparkling wines of Toscana, Italy

As aptly described on tripadvisor.com, "The achingly beautiful Tuscany region of Italy is a touchstone of art, food, and culture. Made up of stunning countrysides and distinguished cities, Tuscany is the perfect escape for gastronomes, cognoscenti, and fans of the Italian Renaissance." The characteristic Tuscan landscape is a blend of gently rolling hills (66.5% of the region's 22,985 sq. km) leading to steep-peaked mountains (25%) and plains (8.5%).

But Tuscany is also a wine powerhouse, ranking sixth among Italian regions in overall wine production and third in terms of DOP wine production. It is renowned for its red wines with Sangiovese ruling the roost in Chianti, Montalcino and Montepulciano, and Bordeaux varietals prominent in the Maremma region (especially Bolgheri and Suvereto) as well as having some presence in Chianti and Montalcino.

Climate and soil composition in Tuscany is location-dependent. For example, Chianti-based producers operate in a continental climate with galestro and albarese soils while their coastal counterparts operate in temperate climates with stone- and rock-imbued clay soils.

Tuscany's focus on Sangiovese and red wines is reflected in the relative paucity of sparkling wines in the region. As shown in the following chart, a total of six DOCs offer approximately 11 labels to the market.

The Pomino DOC is Metodo-Classico-only. Four of the remaining sparkling DOCs are Charmat while sparkling wines made in the Maremma Toscana DOC could utilize either the Charmat or Metodo Classico processes.

The dominant variety used in these sparkling wines is Trebbiano Toscana; Pomino DOC (Metodo Classico) makes use of the classic Italian version of the Champagne varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Nero).

Toscana sparkling wines live in the deep, dark shadows of their red, still counterparts. There are no indications that this will change anytime soon.


©Wine -- Mise en abyme

The DOC sparkling wines of Liguria, Italy

The world of Italian sparkling wine is vast. And I have been capturing it graphically, one region at a time. To date I have mapped Piemonte, Valle d'Aosta, Lombardia, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Trentino-Alto Adige, Veneto, and Emilia-Romagna. In this post I present a picture of Ligurian sparkling wines.

As shown in the map below, Liguria, the third smallest of the Italian regions, hugs the coast of the Gulf of Genoa and the Ligurian Sea in a thin semi-circle that runs from France to Tuscany. Squeezed between the Maritime Alps, the Ligurian Apennines, and the sea, this relatively skinny region is sized at 5422 km2 and is home to a population numbering 1.567 million.

The region is characterized by mountainous hinterlands and a lengthy coastline which is itself separated into the Riviera di Ponente and Riviera di Levante by the capital city of Genoa. The cliffs of the former fall to the sea whiole the latter is noted for its bays and beaches.

Liguria has a relatively warm climate given its northerly location. There is some agricultural activity in the region -- mainly flowers, olive trees, and vineyards -- but the bulk of economic activity is attributable to tourism and shipping through the ports.

The region supports about 6000 ha of vineyards, of which 500 ha is DOC. Vineyards are small and non-contiguous with most of the wine produced by artisans who grow, tend, and harvest the grapes heroically on steep limestone slopes. Annual wine production is approximately 280,000 hL, of which 75% is white. Only Valle d'Aosta produces less wine than does Liguria.

As shown in the chart below, sparkling wine is produced in the Val Polcèvera and Golfo del Tigullio - Portofino DOCs.

In both of these DOCs, Bianchetto Genovese and Vermentino are featured players while a variety called Albarola is additionally given prominence in Val Polcèvera DOC. It should be noted that a 2009 DNA study has concluded that Albarola and Bianchetto Genovese are genetically identical.

As was the case in Valle d'Aosta, neither Chardonnay, Pinot Nero, or Pinot Bianco feature in the production of sparkling wine in Liguria.

Abissi Sparkling Wine
Bisson Winery has been aging its Metodo Classico wines in 60 meters of water off the coast of Portofino since 2005. The wines -- there are three of them: Spumante Classico, Spumante Riserva, and Spumante Rosé -- are fermented traditionally to produce the base wines and are then bottled and lowered into the sea in July so that the second fermentation can be completed in the anaerobic conditions below the surface of the water.

The Spumante Classico and Riserva are blends of Bianchetto Genovese, Vermentino, and a third cultivar called Cimixià. The Rosé is a blend of Granaccia and Ciliegiolo.

The innovative method of aging is the brainchild of Pierluigi Lugano, the enterprise's winemaker. "When the wine bottles are picked up, they are enriched with incrustations (sic), seaweeds (and sometimes shellfishes, too) ... For health and sanitary reasons, bottles are then dried and wrapped under a protective, clear film, which also serves the purpose of preserving the natural ornament made by the sea,"

Source: Cellartracker.com

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

The DOC sparkling wine of Valle d'Aosta

Valle d'Aosta (Vallée d"Aoste in French), is a semi-autonomous region in northwest Italy which is bounded to the north, west, and south by the Alps and shares borders with both France and Switzerland. Reflecting its location, and its cultural history and linkages, it is officially bi-lingual. It was inhabited by an ancient people called the Salassi before it was annexed by the Romans in 25 BC. In more recent times, it was helmed  by the French House of Savoy before joining the Kingdom of Italy in 1861. I continue my survey of Italian Sparkling Wine with a discourse on the sparkling wine of Valle d'Aosta.

Valle d'Aosta DOC
According to Ian D'Agata (writing in Vinous), "Valle d'Aosta is the dwarf, size-wise, among Italy's 20 regions, but it's a giant when it comes to quality. Thirteen unique native grape varieties and a half dozen international grapes, the region's complex geology and alpine climate, and the area's many passionate, talented producers combine to produce a selection of white, red, sparkling and sweet wines of remarkably high quality in all but the most difficult vintages."

The climate is continental, with long, cold winters and short, hot summers. There are some moderating influences to the general climate which aid in fruit development. First, Valle d'Aosta is known for its mountains -- Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa, and the Matterhorn, among others -- and, while they limit the area available for grape growing, they protect the valley from the coldest winds and provide ample sun exposure for the high-flying vineyards. The mountains also provide a rain-shadow effect, thus keeping excess moisture away from the vineyards. Second, the valley follows the course of the Dora Baltea River and its water flow keeps the air moving and clouds at bay. Grapevines are grown between 300 - 1300 meters, with elevations above 1600 meters being considered Tundra and unsuitable for grape growing. There is significant diurnal temeprature variation in the region..

The Valle d'Aosta geography is simple: high, steep slopes rising from the river valleys. Vineyard soils are composed of rocky, gritty mixtures of primarily sand and broken rocks at the higher levels and alluvial sediments of clay and gravel further down the slopes.

The principal wine-growing areas are found along the eastern bank of the Dora Baltea River with a total of 253 ha (625 acres) devoted to vineyards. The highest vineyards are located in the foothills of Mont Blanc at 1300 meters elevation, the highest vineyards in Europe. The vines are trained on low pergolas (Pergola bassa) in trellised arbors with stone columns surrounded by stone walls. This arrangement helps to protect the vines from wind and heavy snowfall but also allows the vines to benefit from heat accumulated in the ground during the course of the day, thus mitigating the diurnal flux.

The wines have never attained the highest quality (Diego Meraviglia), being low in tannin, body, and color as a result of the poor soil. Ripeness and alcohol levels are adequate however, due to ready access to sunlight. The Donnas sub-region was first awarded DOC status in 1971, followed closely by Enfer d' Arvier. Awarding of additional DOCs was halted until 1986 when the decision was made to consolidate all of the region's quality wines under a single DOC -- Valle d"Aosta.

The wines in the region are primarily varietal and, keeping with the bi-lingual character of the region, are labeled Valle d"Aosta/Vallée d'Aoste plus the name of the varietal (85% of the varietal required). The wines are mostly blends of fruit from all over the region. The region has seven subgroups, each of which is allowed to place its name on the label. The varieties grown in the area and the wines of the subzones are shown in the tables below.

White Grapes	Red Grapes
Chardonnay	Cornalin
Gewurtztraminer	Fumin
Müller-Thurgau	Gamaret
Petite Arvine	Gamay
Pinot Bianco	Mayolet
Pinot Grigio	Merlot
Prié Blanc	Picotendro (Nebbiolo)
	Petit Rouge
	Pinot Nero
	Syrah
	Vien de Nus
	Vuilleoman

Table 2. Varieties grown in Valle d'Aoste

Subzone	Style	Varieties	Aging
Arnand-Montjovet	Red	Picotendro (Min.70%), Dolcetto, Pinot Nero, Neyret, Freisa, Vien de Nus	5 months; 12 most for Superiore
Blanc de Morgex et La Salle	White	Prié Blanc	5 months
Chambave	Red	Min 70% Petit Rouge, Dolcetto, Gamay, Fumin, Pinot Noir	5 months
	White (Dry, Sweet)	Moscato Bianco
Donnaz	Red	Picotendro (min 85%), Petit Rouge, Fumin, Freisa, Neyret	24 months; Superiore 36 mos
Enfer d’ Arvier	Red	Petit Rouge (85%), Vien de Nus, Neyret, Dolcetta, Pinot Noir, Gamay	5 mos
Nus	Red	Vien de Nus (50%), Petiti Rouge (30%), other authorized	5 mos; Superiore 8 mos
	White (Dry, Sweet)	Nus Malvoisie, Pinot Grigio
Torrette	Red	Petit Rouge (20%), Pinot Noir, Gamay, Fumin, Vien de Nus, Dolcetto, Majolet, Prematta	5 mos; Superiore 8 mos

Table 3. Subzone wines.

As shown in the table above, Picotendro is produced in the Donnaz and Arnand-Montjovet sub-zones. The Donnaz Picotendro has a higher percentage of the core varietal, and fewer potential blending partners, than does the other. Picotendro is grown close to the border with Piemonte and is not dissimilar to Chiavennasca (Valtellina) in that it is light, delicate, and aromatic with minimal structure and tannin.

Beyond Picontendro, another well-regarded wine is VDA Blanc de Morgex et La Salle. This white wine is made from Prié Blanc grapes grown on south-facing slopes between the municipalities of Morgex and La Salle. The vines grow ungrafted as no Phylloxera attacks have occurred in that specific zone. These wines have good minerality and acidity.

Wine production is primarily by Coop, with the fruits sourced from member growers. A limited number of growers produce their own wine for the market. Annual production is approximately 330,000 cases of which 30,000 is DOC.

Sparkling Wine in the DOC
DOC sparkling wine production is only allowed in the Morgex and La Salle subzone and, as such, is made from 100% Prié Blanc. Hundreds of tiny old vineyard plot -- a total of 70 ha -- dot the two communes and provide fruit to the five growers and the Coop.

Prié Blanc, also known as Blanc de Morgex, is native to the region. It is adapted to the alpine temperatures and the rigors of the growing season: It is late budding so is less susceptible to spring frosts; it is early ripening, a plus in the alpine setting. Ian d'Agata, in the same Vinous article describes Prié Blanc as "a delicately perfumed wine (in both still and sparkling versions) that is not only a great match with many ... fish and vegetable dishes but is also one of Italy's best aperitifs."

Two of the most notable sparkling wine producers in the region are Caves Mont Blanc and Ermes Pavese. Caves Mont Blanc is a Coop that controls 18 ha through its 80 grower-owners. It is the foremost producer of Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle. It produces a Brut and Extra Brut with the difference being a 15-month bottle aging for the former and 17 months of the latter. Ermes Pavese produces between 700 and 1200 bottles of its zero dosage sparkler only in riper years. According to Madrose, this sparkling wine is "as unusual as it is delicious, ... at once rich and quite dry, speaking clearly of its Alpine origin, with delicate smokiness and lemon curd on the nose and full earthy minerality on the palate."

These are small-production wines that are difficult to obtain outside the market.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme