I had sought out recommendations from Remy Charest (noted Canadian wine writer) as to wineries to visit in Ontario. Hidden Bench Estate Winery was among the first names offered so I called them up and made an appointment for a tour and tasting. When I arrived at the locale, I was pleased to find out that Harald Thiel, estate founder and proprietor, would be the one conducting the tour. Harald poured us glasses of bubbly and then headed off to the vineyards surrounding the estate.
As shown in the map below, Hidden Bench farms three vineyards , all located in the Beamsville Bench sub-appellation of the Niagara Peninsula appellation. The Locust Lane Vineyard (8.5 ha/23 acres) was purchased in 2003, co-incident with the founding of the estate, Rosomel (9.2 ha/23 acres) in 2004, and Felseck (13.8ha/34 acres) in 2007. Locust Lane and Felsek Vineyards are located adjacent to the winery while Rosomel is located 6 km to the east.
Hidden Bench Estate Winery vineyards: Locust Lane (red rectangle), Felseck (red oval) and Rosomel (red hexagon). |
Beamsville Bench (Source: VQA Ontario) |
Harald Thiel explaining Niagara Lake climatic zones to the author |
Source: hiddenbench.com |
Source: hiddenbench.com |
Source: hiddenbench.com |
Table 1. Characteristics of the Locust Lane Vineyard
Variety | Number of Plots | Clones | Rootstock | Percent of Vineyard Vines |
Viognier |
3
|
642
| 3309, 102-14 |
6.8
|
Chardonnay |
6
| 548, 76, 95, 96 | Riparia, 104-14 |
21
|
Malbec |
1
|
598
|
3309
|
1.6
|
Pinot Noir |
9
| 777, 386, 114, 115, 667 | Riparia, SO4, 104-14, 3309 |
54.6
|
Riesling |
2
| 21 B |
3309
|
11.4
|
Merlot |
1
|
181
| Riparia |
9.6
|
Cabernet Franc |
1
|
214
| Riparia |
6.1
|
As shown above, a wide variety of clones and rootstocks are used in the Pinot Noir plots. In the case of the rootstocks, Harald mentioned that they are moving to Riparia and 3309 in new plantings as a response to climate change. My research shows that both of these rootstocks are medium resistance to drought conditions but this comes along with low tolerance for limestone soils (there is limestone in the Hidden Bench soil mix from Niagara Escarpment erosion).
Hidden Bench is certified organic with biodynamic principles. The enterprise utilizes oil seed radish as a cover crop to help in breaking up the soil. According to the Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural affairs, this is a relatively new use for oil seed radish and, while it is deeper-rooted than rye grass, "... it does not provide as much organic matter nor support for equipment." The cover crop is mowed just prior to picking.
In keeping with organic requirements, no synthetic herbicides or pesticides are used in the vineyard; pheremones are utilized in the battle against the grape berry moth and the grapes are covered to protect against marauding birds.
In my next post I will cover winemaking and the wines of Hidden Bench Estate Winery.
©Wine -- Mise en abyme
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