Wednesday, March 21, 2018

Book Review: Robert Walters' Bursting Bubbles -- A Secret History of Champagne and the Rise of the Great Growers

I first became aware of Robert Walters through his writings in The World of Fine Wine and, as a matter of fact, drew heavily on his writings for posts on whether Champagne can be considered a fine wine and the characteristics of grower-producers in the Champagne region. His writings were incisive and thought-provoking and the memories provided the impetus for me to acquire his book when it was published.

The book, according to the jacket text, takes us on a journey to visit some of the "artisanal" producers who have arisen in the Champagne region over the past 20 years while also revealing "a secret history" of the region and dispelling "many of the myths that still persist about this celebrated life style."

It is probably challenging to release your Champagne effort in the same year as Peter Liem introduced his epic (Champagne) and shortly after David White brought his excellent effort (But First, Champagne) to market. The David White book is exceptionally strong on the history of Champagne (as is the Liem book) and provides excellent synopses of the sub-regions, negociants, and grower-producers. The Liem book is strong on the production side but sets out to change the way we think of the terroirs of Champagne and Champagne as a terroir wine.

Walters argument is, that for the most part, Champagne is not a terroir wine. As a matter of fact, "for most commercial Champagne, much of the wine's aroma, flavors, and texture comes from the winemaking process rather than from the grapes themselves." Champagne, as he sees it, is a highly manipulated beverage whose prestige is largely due to excellent marketing. And, the success of the current product set, using the current practices, motivate strongly for the status quo.

There is a small group of growers, however, who have bucked the generic approach in pursuit of the goal of Champagne as a wine reflective of its terroir. These producers apply viticultural practices designed to yield ripe fruit (anathema in the region) and cellar practices that are less manipulative in order to produce wines that are more expressive of their terroirs. Walters characterizes the methods of these "Superior Grower Producers" as follows:
  • Own or manage their own vineyards
  • Make wines from their own grapes
  • Begin with a desire to make wines that reflect their origins
    • Single-vineyard or single-commune wines
  • Manage the vineyards with little or no chemical input
    • Biodynamic or organic
  • Plow the soil
  • Seek lower yields than customary for the region
  • Pursue intense fruit so that lower dosage is needed
  • Use dosage in minimal amounts (when used) to balance acidity
  • Mature slowly; no fining or filtering.
The products emanating from this process are wines first and Champagne second, according to Walters.  They are drier, more vinous, clean, pure, and long of finish.  They tend to age well and, in his view, are better with food than a traditional Champagne.

The Growers that fit this mold include Egly-Ouriet, Selosse, Agrapart, Larmandier-Bernier, Jérome Prévost, and Cedric Bouchard. In discussing Selosse and Egly, Walters states thusly:
I have often heard comparisons in France between Anselme Selosse and Francis Egly. These two are certainly the most iconic grower-producers in their respective areas and grape varieties: Egly in the Montagne de Reims and with Pinot Noir-dominant wines, and Selosse in the Côte des Blancs with Chardonnay-dominant wines (for the most part). In many ways, they are the foundation stones of the great grower movement and as such they share much common ground. Both blazed trails that others could follow. Both were heavily influenced by Burgundy. Both aim for fully ripe fruit and harvest significantly later than their colleagues. And both utilise the barrique as their maturation vessel of choice. Undoubtedly, Selosse, as a more outspoken, open and charaismatic figure, has been far more influential on the grower movement in general, yet the Egly legacy is also significant.
This is a very small group of players (less than 5% of Champagne exports come from this group) and is declining in number as members yield to the siren song of increasing grape prices.

Walters does an excellent job of detailing why Champagne is not, for the most part, a great wine (when compared to the characteristics used to define great wine in broader France) and telling the stories of the grower-producers. He builds psychographic portraits of these growers and then tries to trace these traits into their wines.

I have issues with the organization of the book though. I found the cover art to be intriguing but thought that the title layout was a bit too much (By the way, a more playful slipcover is employed in the Australian market. I like it.).

There are maps on the inside back and front covers which show the locations of the producers but there is no context when you first see them and there are no references within the book to them. The author spends a lot of words describing travels between the locations while a reference to the maps might have sufficed.

The content is organized roughly as follows: Topic #1; Mythbusting; Producer visit; Mythbusting; Topic #2 ... This breaks up whatever flow there is/should be. The reader probably would have been better served by a more cohesive organization with the mythbusting topics all put into one place in an Appendix or elsewhere. I was not exactly sure of the benefits associated with busting these myths once again anyway.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Saturday, March 17, 2018

Bruno Giacosa's Falletto di Serralunga: A tasting of selected vintages (La Pizza Fresca, NYC)

The announcement of Bruno Giacosa's death hit higher on the scale for me as I had attended a tasting of selected Giacosa wines at La Pizza Fresca just two weeks prior. That tasting, led by Levi Dalton of I'll Drink to That fame, covered four instances of each of his Falletto MGA Barolo offerings. The wines, and the accompanying dishes, are shown below. A description of the terroir precedes the discussion of the tasting.

The MGA is illustrated in strawberry in the figure below. The Le Rocche del Falletto portion is shown as a golden wedge to the north.

Giacosa made his wines with purchased fruit until he bought the "majestic" Falletto vineyard in 1982. This vineyard, it is widely agreed, became the source of one of his greatest Barolos. The Giacosa formula for great vineyards is: (i) high hill country positioning, (ii) south to southwest sun exposure, and (iii) amphitheatre-like vineyards; Falletto fits this profile almost perfectly.

The Giacosa wines from this vineyard are labeled Falletto (white label) and Rocche del Falletto (from four south-facing plots on the upper slopes of the vineyard. The Rocche del Falletto plots support the crus oldest vines (35+ years) grown in clay and calcareous soils.

The Riservas spend an additional 6 months in wood -- and an additional year in bottle -- over the white labels.

Vintage Conditions
The table below shows the vintage conditions for each of the years from which wines were drawn for the tasting.

Vintage Falletto Le Rocche del Falletto Le Rocche del Falletto Riserva Vintage Conditions (as per Jancis Robinson)

More structure and potential than 1997; some very fine elegant wines


Very good quality. Voluptuous Barolo and Barbaresco; recalls 1997

X Very good partly thanks to a heatwave from mid-August to mid-September. Nebbiolo exceptional with excellent acidity, ripeness, and great flavor definition. For the long term

X Excellent quality from an early vintage. In the mold of 1999 and 1997 rather than for the long term. No shortage of ripeness or structure; an occasional shortage of acidity


Heatwave vintage. Oldest vines managed to withstand the weather and yield some exceptional wines

X Well-balanced wines


Reduced crop of decent but unremarkable wines for medium-term drinking

X Low-yielding year but good quality fruit

The Tasting
After the appropriate amount of social banter, Brad (proprietor of La Pizza Fresca) called us to order. In his opening remarks he mentioned that this tasting had been in the works for several years and that Bruna (Bruno's daughter) could not come due to her father's ill health and her responsibilities. The tasting, however, had Bruna's blessing. He then turned the floor over to Levi Dalton.

Levi then gave attendees a lecture (in the positive sense) on the history of Bruno Giacosa and the Falletto vineyard (he also gave credit to Ken Vastola for being the repository of a lot of the information that he was providing).

Brad and his Nixonian move as MD Savino asks
"What am I doing here?"

Levi asking attendees to go light on him prior
to the start of the event

Paul Tocci (R) thinking about DRC

There were no dogs in the Falletto flight. The 1998 showed violets, florality, red fruits, and baking spices on the nose. Rich, sour finish. Levi said this was a vintage wherein one can find accessibility. He liked it. The 2000 showed spice, red fruit, earth, mushrooms, and a savoriness. Red fruit on the palate. Great weight. Elegant, clean finish. The 2001 had licorice, tobacco, smoke, and sweet red fruit on the nose. Leaner than the preceding wines. Medium-bodied. Red fruit and tar on palate. Lengthy finish. The 2004 showed tamarind, tar, blackberries, spice and a mineral note. Massive. Sour red fruit. Structured. Time is its best friend.

Carpaccio di Manzo

Agnolotti di Zucca

All of the wines in the Rocche del Falletto flight showed well. The 1998 showed tar, roses, strawberry, earth, and soy on the nose. Minerality, balance and a lengthy finish. The 1999 showed dark cherries, roses, tar, earth, and balsamic notes. Dark fruits on the palate preceding a lengthy finish. The 2003 belied its vintage. Ripe fruit, tar, and herbs on the nose but balanced. The 2005 showed dried rose petals tar, and licorice on the nose. Savory with drying tannins. Lengthy finish.

Pizza Margherita

A dark, rich power, along with lengthy finishes, seemed to be the hallmark of the Rocche del Falletto Riservas. In addition, the 2000 showed licorice, herbs, and mint on the nose and well integrated tannins on the palate. The 2001 showed sweet red fruit and an earthiness on the nose, the former of which was evident on the palate along with great texture and balance. The 2004 had similar nasal characteristics as the 2001 along with more traditional Barolo characteristics and herbs. The 2007 was redolent with cherry and tobacco notes.

This was a high-quality tasting both in terms of the wines on offer and the job done by Levi. Bruno Giacosa wines are legendary; and they are legendary for a reason. So there was no surprise there.

This was the first tasting that I had attended where Levi was honchoing and I was pleased. Levi has a self-deprecating personality -- both in terms of speech and mannerisms -- but that disappears once he is in front of an audience and begins to delve into this area which he is obviously passionate about. This was a terroir tasting as presented by Levi. While many presenters see wine dinners as an opportunity to say a few words between dishes, Levi expounded on the terroir of Falletto Bruno Giacosa, and the wines at great length. It was superlative.

Levi was ably assisted by Eric Guido (Morrell) who dutifully held up a map at one point during the tasting but, more importantly, tasted through all the wines prior to the start of the event to ensure that only quality bottles made it through.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Sunday, March 11, 2018

Bruno Giacosa: Memorializing the "Maestro of Nebbiolo" with attendance at a "timely" wine dinner

I had never met Bruno Giacosa so, on his death, I could not pen touching and heartfelt tributes such as done by Laura Seal (Decanter), Antonio Galloni (Vinous), Jeremy Parzen (DoBianchi), Bruce Sanderson (Wine Spectator), and Monica Larner (Robert Parker Wine Advocate). But I was able snag a spot at a previously scheduled Wine Watch Bruno Giacosa tasting dinner, attendance at which, I felt, would allow me to pay hommage, in my own little way, to his monumental contributions to this space that we all love.

All of the tribute-payers mentioned above remarked on his taciturnity. Beyond that, they marveled at his "ability to recognize the best growing sites" and "his encyclopedic knowledge of Langhe cru sites." Antonio Galloni referred to him as the "maestro of Nebbiolo" and credited him with a number of innovations:
  • The first producer in Piedmont to wholeheartedly embrace the philosophy of single-vineyard cru Barolo and Barbaresco
  • One of the first to have a state of the art cellar with temperature control
  • An early adopter of French oak.
The most comprehensive knowledge base on Bruno Giacosa is curated by Ken Vastola on his site I summarize some of his key information on Bruno Giacosa, and his Barolos and Barbarescos, in the chart below.

I have previously described the new Wine Watch Wine Bar where the dinner was held. I stepped into the bar and was heartened to see that the mood was upbeat. Andrew Lampasone (the proprietor) was pouring Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis with abandon and I did not hesitate to join in the mix.

The tasting was fully subscribed. The wines on offer are shown in the figure below. I posted this picture to instagram real-time and the feedback was "great tasting but those 'sale' prices are crazy" and "I'd hate to think his passing spiked pricing ..."

The dinner began with the 2014 Dolcetto d'Alba paired with a Beef Tartare with a Quail egg and aioli sauce. Sweet dark plummy fruit on the nose with dark notes on the palate. Medium-bodied with a hint of tannins. Almond finish.

The 2014 Barbera d'Alba showed ripe cherry fruit on the nose and was juicy and approachable on the palate. Easy drinking.

After the introductory wines, we switched to the cru Barbarescos and Barolos, beginning with the 2011 Santo Stefano. As indicated on, this will be the final bottling of this label. Savory on the nose along with coal and spice. Complex. Great weight on palate. Balanced. Drinking beautifully.

The 2012 Barbaresco Asili was floral. Rosewater, cigarette, and smoke on the nose. Explodes on the palate. Silky tannins. Beautiful rounded mouthfeel giving way to a lengthy finish.

The 2009 Rocche Falletto showed tar, tobacco, and dark fruit on the nose. Builds to a crescendo on palate. Weighty. Long finish.

The 2011 Falletto showed red fruit, rose petals, tar, and spices on the nose. Great weight on palate. Rich. Slightly aggressive tannins. Lengthy finish.

Tar, kerosene, asphalt were the the characteristics associated with the nose of the 2008 Falletto Riserva, Tamarind on the palate. Balanced. Metallic finish.

Roasted Butternut Squash Ravioli with Pine Nuts

Osso Buco

The 2001 Barbaresco Rabajà Riserva was one of my favorites of the night. Tobacco, tar, dried rose petals, and cigarettes on the nose. Fine-boned on palate. Tamarind. Elegant. Long, sour finish.

The 1996 Asili Riserva had notes of licorice, mint, smoke, and tobacco on the nose. Rich, sour red fruit on palate. Tamarind and spice. Tannins not yet fully resolved.

This was a meaningful tasting. It was not packed with stellar vintages of Giacosa's greatest wines (such as, for example, the La Pizza Fresca tasting held two weeks prior) but it was a tasting of his wines shortly after the announcement of his death and everyone in that room felt and understood the import of the moment. This tasting had been scheduled and announced weeks in advance; his passing made it more than a run-of-the-mill wine tasting dinner.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Thursday, March 8, 2018

Tasting the wines of Dougos Winery (Larissa, Greece) with Yiannis Karakasis MW and Thanos Dougos at Ammos (NYC)

I have visited, and written about, a fair number of North Greece wineries so when Yiannis Karakasis MW invited me to join him at a Dougos Winery wine-tasting dinner in New York City, I jumped at the opportunity to support him, as well as to add to my knowledge base of the region and its wines.

The dinner was held on Monday night of this week at Ammos, a Greek restaurant located at 52 Vanderbilt Avenue in New York City. The restaurant has a cozy bar oppsite the entrance, a main dining area to the left of the bar, and a small banquet/meeting room one level up. The banquet room has a U-shaped seating configuration and a large-screen TV to support video presentations if required. The dinner was held in this room.

I arrived a little early so I sat at the bar and renewed my acquaintance with the Wine Art Estate Malagouisa. Yiannis arrived a little while later and we had a joyous reunion. At this time he introduced me to Thanos, the owner of Dougos Winery.

After a while we were summoned upstairs for the dinner and tasting. Before I describe the event, some background on the region and the winery.

The Region
The wines featured in the tasting are primarily associated with the Rapsani PDO appellation. Rapsani is a protected designation of origin (PDO) in the Greek appellation schema. Its physical and legal characteristics are elaborated in the chart below.

The vineyards proper are located on the southern slopes of Mount Olympus and its "mainland mediterranean" climate is modified by the surrounding mountains and forests as well as by the Thermaic Gulf of the Aegean Sea. One of the heralded aspects of the environment is the 10 - 15 ℃ temperature variation between day and night, a condition which, it is held, "enhances phenolic ripeness and aromatic concentration of the grapes."

The Estate
Dougos Winery was founded in 1991 and is currently managed by Thanos (agriculturalist) and Louiza (chemist and oenologist) Dougos. It is located in the Tempi Valley at the foot of Mt Olympus while its 30 ha of vineyards are situated in Prosilia and Tourtoura (on the mountain's northeast slope) at elevations ranging between 550 and 700m. The vineyard soils are a iron-rich sand-clay mix over a schist subsoil.

The vineyards are farmed organically and sports yields of between 5 and 8 tons/ha from a mix of Greek (Xinomavro, Krasato, Stavroto, Limniona, Roditis, Assyrtiko) and international (Syrah, Grenache rouge, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc) varieties.

The Tasting
We were called to order and Yiannis and Thanos introduced to the group (They began smiling shortly after the picture below was snapped).

Yiannis Karakasis MW and Thanos Dougos

After a short video on the winery, and prior to the first dishes being brought out, Yiannis conducted a Masterclass on some old Dougos vintages.

The first wine tasted was the Rapsani PDO 2014. This wine is a blend of Xinomavro (40%), Krasato (40%), and Stavroto (20%). The grapes are fermented in stainless steel tanks and then transferred to barrels for malolactic fermentation and aging. The wine is aged for 12 months in French and American oak and an additional 12 months in bottle.

The wine showed tomato, red fruit, spices, meat, and leather. Red fruit on the palate. Late-arriving tannins. According to Yiannis, the wine can be drunk early but is best after 3 years. He mentioned that this had been a challenging vintage with unripe tannins. He referred to it as "a classic vintage."

Next up was the 2010 Rapsani PDO Old Vines, a mix of 65% Xinomavro, 25% Krasato, and 10% Stavroto. The vines here are 65 years old. Fermentation same as for the Rapsani PDO but aging is 16 months in 25% new French oak. Bottle aging for 1 year. Yiannins identified this as a ripe vintage. Black fruit, leather, and baking spices on the nose. Lean and complete on the palate. Ripe tannins. Understated power.

The 2011 Rapsani PDO Old Vines showed tomato paste, tomato leaf, leather, and earth on the nose. Fully developed. Licorice, dark fruit, tomato, and iron on the palate.

The 2012 Old Vines exhibited complexity on the nose: brown shoe polish, spice, licorice, and baking spices. Granny's attic on nose and palate. Lengthy finish.

The wine of the night was the 2008 Meth'Imon Opsimo. This is a blend of equal parts Limniona, Syrah, and Grenache rouge. This wine was advertised as being made in an Amarone style. But it was much more balanced with no overt sweetness or alcohol. Complex. Salinity and savoriness on both the nose and palate. Lengthy finish. A pleasure to drink.

At the conclusion of the Masterclass the dinner service began. The meal reminded me of my trip through North Greece where I was always told that we would be having a light lunch, or  pre-lunch, and I would come away feeling as though I had eaten a dinosaur. The food was excellent but it was too much. We had what I considered as three appetizers and two main courses plus dessert. I quit halfway through the first of the main courses. By the way, I normally eat at Milos whenever I am in NYC; going forward Ammos is going to get a lot of my time. High-quality food and service.

Crispy zucchini fritters, graviera and feta cheese,
mint evoo, tzatziki

Crispy calamari with lemon caper aioli

Maryland lump crab cake with lemon caper aioli

Slowly cooked lamb shank in a homemade tomato
sauce over Greek orzo casserole

Grilled rack of lamb over traditional Greek

Wonderful tasting. Yiannis and Thanos deserve combat pay for managing through a couple of attendees who wanted to evaluate each wine (loudly) on its by-the-glass potential.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Sunday, March 4, 2018

Ceretto, Brovia, Roagna, Cordero di Montezemolo, and Poderi Colla: Barolos from Castiglione Falletto and Monforte

The Antonio Galloni celebration of Barolo is held annually in New York City and consists of (i) a gala dinner and (ii) a Masterclass tasting of 15 Barolos on the day after the dinner. This year's Masterclass was titled 2013 Barolo: Sublime Finesse and Elegance and featured 15 of the region's top producers discussing, in turn, their estate's 2013 vintage.

The wines were presented in flights and, to date, I have reported on the following: The Renaissance of Verduno and Monvigliero, The Art of the Blend, The Classicism of Brunate, The Emergence of Novello and Ravera, and the Nuances of Margheria. In this post I report on the first flight which featured 2013 Barolos from Ceretto, Brovia, Cordero di Montezemolo, and Poderi Colla and a 2012 Barolo from Roagna.

Antonio Galloni kicking off the Masterclass

This was the most atypical of the flights:
  • Five wines versus two
  • Set at the commune level (with the exception of the Barolo-blend flight, all flights were intra-cru comparisons)
  • Four of the five wines were from Castiglione Falletto
  • Each of the Castiglione Falletto wines was from a different MGA
The particulars of the flight are shown in the table below.

Commune Producer Wine MGA Vineyard Winery Representative
Castiglione Falletto Ceretto Barolo Bricco Rocche Bricco Rocche

Alessandro Ceretto

Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia Rocche di Castiglione

Alex Sánchez

Roagna Barolo Pira Vecche Viti Pira

Luca Roagna

Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Enrico VI Villero

Alberto Cordero di Montezemolo
Monforte d’Alba Poderi Colla Barolo Bussia Dardi Le Rose Bussia Dardi Le Rose Pietro Colla

I begin with a brief look at the wine-producing regions under consideration and will then examine the wines tasted.

Castiglione Falletto
"Even if the vineyard surface cultivated for the production of Barolo places it solely in sixth place among the townships, Castiglione Falletto, in terms of notoriety, certainly cannot be considered a township of secondary significance given that, not merely producers of great fame but also, and above all, vineyards of exceptional prestige, can be numbered within its confines" (Masnaghetti). Whew. That was a long sentence. But you get the point. Castiglione Falletto, as a commune, is highly regarded.

The map below shows the location of the Castiglione Falletto MGAs from which the wines included in this flight were drawn. Rocche di Castiglione and Villero were numbered among my 18 Greatest Barolo Vineyards and are described here. Information on Bricco Rocche and Pira follow.

Bricco Rocche
As per
This Castiglione Falletto vineyard is the smallest geographic area within the Barolo specification and comprises just over 1 hectare. It is the most prestigious part of what was once called La Serra and is nestled between the Villero and the Rocche (rock face) of Castiglione, which represents the best of the top parts; it can be considered a monopole as the whole parcel is the exclusive property of the Ceretto family.
The height of the vineyard is optimum, going from 350 to 370 meters above sea level, with southeast to southwest exposure. The earth (sandstone of Diano) reinforce the ideal sense of balance, suggested by the geographic location, and see good percentages of sand, silt and clay. 
According to
Pira is ... exposed to the southeast, ... it derives from the disintegration of the Rocche di Castiglione. It is a GMA and property of our family since 1989, the year it was purchased. It has ... a unique soil and microclimate, as it is protected in the upper part by the Rocche di Castiglione and downstream from the woods with a stream coming from the Bussia di Monforte. The cultivated vines are Barbera, Chardonnay and mainly Nebbiolo, in which we can classify 6 different micro-plots according to the composition of the soil, which goes from the limestone rock of the Rocche to the bluish marl, and according to the age of the vines. 
At 292.3 ha, Bussia is the second largest MGA in Monforte d'Alba (and the Barolo Zone as a whole), bested only by Bricco San Pietro which weighs in at a massive 380.09 ha. The various vineyards included in the Bussia MGA are shown on the map below.

This is a 7-ha vineyard located in the hamlet of Dardi in Bussia Soprano. The best plots are located above the village. The topmost point of the vineyard is known as Mondoca. According to the winery website, this vineyard was the first to be vinified separately by Beppe Colla back in 1961, thus allowing him to place the cru name on the label.

The Wines
The available data on the physical characteristics of the individual vineyards and their viticulture and viniculture practices are presented in the table below followed by my perception of the resulting wines.

Characteristic Ceretto Bricco Rocche Brovia Rocche Roagna Pira Cordero di Montezemolo Poderi Colla
Vineyard Size 1 ha from one source; 1.4 ha from another 1.5 ha 4.88 ha
8 ha (of which 6 planted to Nebbiolo
Elevation (m) 340 - 370m

300 - 350
Exposure SE to SW SE SE S S and SW
Soil Silty loam (Sandstone of Diano) Lean, slightly sandy, loose calcareous soil Layers of alternating white limestone, gray and blue marl, and sand with a high mineral content Calcareous and micronutrient rich

Vine Training Guyot

Vine Density (Vines/ha)

4000 viness/ha


Year Planted

Oldest plants date back to 1937

1978 - 1985

Harvesting Hand Hand

Reception Hand sort Light pressing and separation of stalk Immediately destemmed and crushed

Destemmed and crushed
Fermentation Vessels Stainless Steel

Oak SS

Yeasts Native

Pre-fermentation pied de cuve

Fermentation Period

15 - 20 days 10 days; submerged-cap maceration for 70 - 90 days 6 - 10 day maceration, 10 -12 days fermentation 12 - 15 day maceration

Barrel Aging 12 mos 310 l oak barrels; moved to 25 Hl oak casks for remainder of elevage 2 years in 30 Hl Frenck oak casks Aged in neutral oak for 5 years 20 months in barriques Aged ionic casks for 24 - 28 months

None None

Bottle Aging

18 - 24 months

In his presentation, Alessandro Ceretto stated that the wines were fantastic from fermentation through aging. And that showed on the resultant 2013 Barolo Bricco Rocche. This wine was floral with violets and beautiful red fruit notes. The wine explodes on the palate with dried red fruit, rose petals, lovely acidity, great weight, and a long dry finish.

Alex Sánchez said that the 2013 Rocche del Brovia was very different on the nose than on the previous night. Elegant nose. Hint of tar, roses, and persimmon. On the palate sour persimmon, tar, and silky tannins. More intensity on the palate than was the case for the Ceretto. Long coating on palate. Bitter finish.

The 2013 Roagna 2012 Barolo Pira Vecchie Viti showed broad-based red fruit, shoe polish, and green flowers. Full round on the palate with drying fruit, dried rose petals, and silky tannins. Long, silky finish.

The 2013 Barolo Enrico VI showed hints of coconut, licorice, and dark fruit. Sweet fruit on the palate. Weighty with lengthy finish.

The 2013 Poderi Colla 2013 Barolo Bussia Dardi Le Rose was elegant with dried rose petals and bright red fruit on the nose. Power on the palate. Very different from the previous wines. Lenghty finish.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme