Feudi Cavalieri: Old vines on Etna’s southeast slope

Brandon, Lidia, and I were in the midst of a glorious week of rest and relaxation at Portopalo di Capo Passero when I received a message from Frank Morgan (@drinkwhatyoulike) indicating that he would be on Mt Etna as a part of the Etna Days congress and that we should try to connect. During the course of our communication I was able to determine that he would be visiting Feudi Cavalieri on the day of our return to Mt Etna and I communicated same to Brandon. Margherita Platania, owner of the estate, was a very good friend of Brandon and Lidia. Brandon called her up and arranged for us to visit simultaneously with the Etna Days crew.

We arrived at Feudo Cavalierei prior to the Etna Days guests and were welcomed by Margherita's husband and son and the latter proceeded to describe the estate to us.

The estate has been owned by the Platania D'Antoni family since 1880. Wines were originally bottled by Margherita's great grandfather but he eventually ceased that activity to concentrate on grapes and bulk wine. Through the years the property had been divided up between various family branches. When Margherita's father passed away, she inherited his share and used that as a platform from which to acquire the parcels that she did not own in order to recreate the original holding. 

The 20-ha property is located in Contrada Cavaliere (in the Comune of Santa Maria di Licodia) at elevations ranging between 900 and 1000 m. Of the 20 ha, 10 are planted to vines with the remainder occupied by woods and fruit trees. Plants and vines are underlain by black sandy soils and ripiddu, rich in minerals and tending to acidic, which are coralled by lava stone terraces.

Feudi Cavaliere resident in Contrada Cavaliere

By this time the Etna Days crew had arrived and, after the appropriate salutations and greetings, we broke off into two groups to tour the vineyard.

Margherita welcoming the Etna Days group

During our walk, Margherita's son went over some of the material that he had already shared with me but also added additional material. The vineyard is planted to Nerello Mascalese (60%) and Carricante with vines being trained either Alberello or spurred cordon. Some of these vines are 200 to 300 years old. Newer vines are sourced through massal selection. 

The estate is farmed organically with Margherita herself taking care of the trees and vines. 

Upon completion of the vineyard tour, we did a walk through the cellar and tasted a selection of the estate's wines. Wines made from the pre-phylloxera vines are bottled under the Millemetri label while newer vines are bottled under the Contrada Cavalieri label.

The first wine tasted was the 2020 Etna Bianco Contrada Cavaliere. This wine spent 1 year on its lees. Herbs, salinity, minerality and citrus skin on the nose. Lime, minerality, salinity, and pepper on the palate. Marked intensity to the pepper and salinity. A drying finish.

The 2016 Millemetri Etna Bianco was an absolute gem. This 100% Carricante is sourced partly from old vines and partly from newer plantings at elevations ranging between 950 and 990 m. The wine was aged on its fine lees in stainless steel tanks for 1 year. 

Herbs, citrus skin, salinity, and mint on the nose. The wine forms a small, compact ball of citrus and salinity with a juicy undertone on the palate. Lengthy finish.

The Millemetri Red is 100% Nerello Mascalese sourced from grapes grown at 950 m. The wine was aged 15% in new oak and the remaining 85% in second- and third-pass barriques. The wine spent an additional 12 months in bottle prior to release on the market. 

The 2018 version of this wine had a slight muskiness accompanying elevated strawberry aromas and potpourri. Light on the palate but with some spice. Firm tannins.

Brandon Tokash, Frank Morgan, and the author.

We attempted a tasting of the Rosé, but the wine was defective. The star wine of the tasting was the 2016 Millemetri Bianco and this further reinforced my developing bias for Carricantes from Milo and the southeast slope of the DOC. The age of the wine only served to accentuate the quality of this vintage for this producer.

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