In February of this year, in a Wine Spectator article titled "What is Etna's Next Wine Wave?", Robert Camuto identified Carla Maugeri as one of the producers to watch.
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| Carla Maugeri |
According to Robert, Carla has teamed up with Tuscan-born winemaker Emiliano Falsini in order to realize a dream first pursued by her father (Renato) and his siblings 50 years ago.
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| Maugeri enologist Emiliano Falsini with author |
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| The author with Renato Maugeri and Brandon Tokash |
Maugeri is the effort by Carla and her sisters (Michela and Paolo) to restore their -- as they see it -- patrimony.
Brandon and I paid a visit to the estate and were guided through the lands and the wines by Gea Cali, the winery's Export Manager.
Gea welcomed us on to the property and first took us on a tour of an "eno-lodge" construction site. During the tour we encountered the remnants of the family's unsuccessful attempt at the winemaking business 50 or so years ago. A cellar full of bottles from the 1973 vintage bear testament to the futility of that effort.
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| Historical evidence of "ancient" Maugeri winemaking efforts |
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| More historical evidence of past Maugeri winemaking efforts |
We ventured into the vineyards after leaving the construction site. According to Gea, the Maugeri holdings are comprised of 83 terraces on 7 ha stretched between Contrade Volpare and Praino at 700 m elevation on Mt etna's eastern slope. The property -- 6 ha in Volpare, 1 ha in Praino -- is enclosed within an unbroken line of 28 km of lava dry stone. The amphitheater-shaped construct is constantly washed by sea breezes which contribute significantly to the health of the grapes.
The soils in the two contrade are similar -- sandy volcanic with high organic content and rich in minerals -- but Gea contends that the soil in Praino is more "tufa-like."
The Carricante grape is the heart and soul of the estate being, as it is, the basis of all wines with the exception of the Bianco Catarratto and the Etna Rosato (Nerello Mascalese). Vines are alberello-trained and are planted at 6000/ha.
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| Gea Cali and Brandon Tokash |
The Maugeri Carricante vines attain their highest quality levels in the Frontebosco and Frontemare vineyards in Contrada Volpare and Contrada Praino, respectively. Frontebosco is south-facing and, as such, has the highest number of hours of sunlight of any area of the property. Frontemaro faces the sea, while Frontebosco faces the forest. Both are moderated by their respective environments.
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| Frontebosco (Screenshot from maugeri.it) |
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| Frontemare (Screenshot from maugeri.it) |
In addition to Carricante, Catarratto (0.5 ha) and Nerello Mascalese are planted in Contrada Volpare. The Catarratto is planted on north-facing slopes while the Nerello Mascalese is planted in rockier areas.
The distribution of Maugeri wines by contrade and grape variety is shown below.
We repaired to the tasting room to taste these wines and to sample some of the Maugeri fare.
The first wine tasted was the 2023 Etna Bianco Superiore. That growing season was hot but with some rain in July. The vines were green-harvested in September (Historically, the fruits of the green harvest had been left on the ground but they are now being vinified.). The grapes were cryomacerated for 3 hours after which they were vinified in stainless steel tanks using selected yeasts. The wine was aged on the lees for 8 months in 60% French oak barrels and 40% stainless steel tanks. No malolactic fermentation or batonnage. The wine was fined and filtered prior to bottling. In the future this wine will be aged for a full year, 90% in steel tanks and 10% in oak barrel.
Sweet white fruit on the nose, along with a savory character, herbs, and salinity. Broad-based acidity on the palate which, over time, morphs into a fine-boned citrus. Persistence.
The Etna Bianco Superiore Frontebosco 2023 was treated differently in the cellar due to the added hours of sunlight that this south-facing vineyard received during the course of the growing season. Cryomaceration was extended to 8 hours. Vinification in stainless steel tanks followed by lees-aging in 60% Frenck oak barrels (old and new) and 40% steel tanks. No malolactic or batonnage.
Salinity, sweet white fruit, and green and dried herbs on the nose. Fuller bodied. Slowly enveloping salinity on the palate along with lime and a juiciness.
The grapes for the Etna Bianco Superiore Frontemare 2023 were cryomacerated for 3 hours prior to fermentation, 30% in stainless steel, 70% in French oak tonneaux.
Sage herbs, sweet white fruit, herbs, and mint. Rustic on the palate with some heat.
The Etna Bianco Catarratto 2023 (IGT Terre Siciliane) was fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged on its lees for 4 months with an additional 2 months in bottle. The wine is Catarratto in purity.
Full round mouthfeel. Palate-engaging. Persistent.
The 2023 Contrada Volpare Etna Rosato represents a firming up of the fermentation process for this wine. In 2021 this wine was fermented in oak while in 2022 it was fermented 50% in tonneaux and 50% in stainless steel. In 2023, after a few hours of cryomaceration the wine was fermented as it was in 2022. The wine spent 4 hours on its lees.
Red cherries, spice, blackpepper, and a long, sour finish. We also tasted the 2022 edition of this wine and it had similar characteristics except for a little more salinity.
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Maugeri is a relatively young estate -- the vines are 6 to 7 years old -- but they are, in their focus, exhibiting a maturity beyond their wine years. As newbies , they could attempt to force things and try to be everything to everybody. But no. They are making white wines on Milo. Fullstop. And that focus will stand them in good stead; especially in these formative years. Get really good at one thing before expanding into new areas.
In addition, because the vines are so relatively young, the wines will get better naturally (And they are pretty darn good at this time). According to Salvo Foti, Carricante vines need as much as 15 years to begin producing the highest quality wines. So Maugeri's future is ahead of it.
Excellent wines from an excellent team.
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