An Exploration of the slopes and terroirs of Mt. Etna with the wines of Benanti Viticoltori as guides

I have utilized discussion with, and the writings of, Benjamin North Spencer (New Wines of Mt Etna), the writings of Bill Nesto MW and Frances di Savino (The World of Sicilian Wine), and  discussions with Antonio and Salvino Benanti (Benanti Viticoltori) as inspiration for the construction of a terroir map of Etna DOC.

Given Benanti's coverage of most of the zones identified in the map above, we thought it would be interesting to taste through the Benanti portfolio in order to seek out terroir differences. We felt that the common viticultural and winemaking practices of Benanti would minimize the number of non-terroir differences as opposed to a tasting with multiple vendor representatives across the population of wines. The Benanti Etna DOC coverage is illustrated in the chart below while its product portfolio -- plus relevant information -- is shown in the chart immediately following.

We did include one vintage each of the Gaja/Graci Idda Bianco and Rosso wines in order to allow cross-producer assessments in common growing zones.

Tasting Design

The tasting was held on June 29 at F&D Prime Steakhouse in Lake Mary and the wines were deployed  into the following flights:

Flight 1: Metodo Classico Sparkling Wines

Flight 2: Etna Biancos

Flight 3: Etna Rosato

Flight 4: Etna Rossos

Flight 5: Etna Rosso Riservas

The tasting group is pictured below.

The Tasting

The tasting notes were contributed by the author, Sean and Eric. 

Flight 1: Metodo Classico Sparkling Wines

Wine #1. Benanti Noblesse Brut Carricante 2019 (Carricante (C) from E and S slopes)

Mint, yeast, and spice on the nose. Nice round mouthfeel. Bright, lees, mineral bubbles, salinity, and a lengthy finish. 

Eric saw this as dry, with pineapple notes, minerality, and yeast evident.

Wine #2. Benanti La Morèmio Brut Rosato 2020 (Nerello Mascalese (NM) from S slope)

Faint strawberry and yeast on the nose. Whisper of bubbles on the palate. Bright acidity. Wine-like. 

According to Eric, yeast and a hint of strawberry on the nose. Low bubble content.

Flight 2: Etna Biancos

Wine #1. Benanti Etna Bianco 2021 (C from E and S slopes)
Broad on the nose and palate. Mineral, salinity, and spice. 

For Eric, this wine was meaty on the nose. Dry on the palate with a mild finish.

Sean— Pale golden color. Refreshing. Tart, yet dry. Decent acid on the sides of the tongue. Apples and peaches on the nose and on my palate. Nice pool or beach wine. 

Wine #2. Benanti Contrada Rinazzo Etna Bianco Superiore 2021 (C from E slope)

Herbs and stemminess on the nose. Salinity, acidity, and minerality on the palate.

Eric saw this as having a full to minimal fruit component and a short mineral expression. He thought it would pair well with a seafood medley.

Sean — Floral nose. Bigger taste than the Etna Bianco. Syrupy. May be too young, or needs more time to really enjoy. Citrus.

Wine #3. Benanti Pietra Marina Etna Bianco Superiore 2017 (C from E slope)

Mineral on the nose and palate. Lime skin on the palate.

Eric saw this as having a full fruit component with lime Margarita on the nose. Dry with light to medium minerality.

Sean — Very nice. Favorite thus far. Silky. Good acid. Another good one for food pairings. Mineral. 

Wine #4. Benanti Contrada Cavaliere Etna Bianco 2021 (C from S slope)

Thyme and herbaceousness on the nose. High acid and salinity on the palate.

Eric -- High salinity. Slightly unbalanced. Short finish.

Sean — Golden in color. Florals and tangerine on the nose. Dry. Good acidity. A nice food wine. Nice flavors. Almond paste on the palate. A bit of licorice also. A bit of some salinity, which makes it more interesting. Fav wine.

Wine #5. Gaja IDDA Bianco Sicilia DOP 2021 (C from s slope)

Mint and minerality on the nose. Smooth on the palate with good acidity and a great round mouthfeel. I take back everything bad I have ever said about this label.

Eric got baked pineapple, mint, and tropical fruit skins on the nose. Balanced with base lines of salinity, acidity, and minerality. High palate finish of fruit.

Sean — Good. Apricotish, with maybe apples. Nice acid, so another food wine. Some minerality, which I do enjoy. 

The wines from the different slopes were characterized by salinity, acidity, and minerality with the southwestern slope exhibiting a little more fruit and salinity.

Flight 3: Etna Rosato

Wine #1. Benanti Etna Rosato 2021 (NM from SE slope)

This wine was not tasted at the dinner as it slipped through the hands of the Somm (That's you Al). However, we took it to lunch a few days later. Strawberry and minerality on the nose and these carry through to the palate along with tamarind and salinity. Long, mineral finish.

Flight 4: Etna Rosso

Wine #1. Benanti Etna Rosso 2021 (NM (80 - 85%) and Nerello Cappuccio (NC) (20 - 15%) from N, SE, and SW slopes)

Slate and red fruit on the nose. Tannic on the palate along with tomato flavors and a full round mouthfeel.

Eric posits ripe raspberry, and tomato peel. Slow on the mid-palate. Cioppino would be the ideal pairing.

Sean -- Violet floral notes on the nose, tar on the palate. Not terribly into this one. 

Wine #2. Benanti Contrada Dafara Galluzzo Etna Rosso 2021 (NM from N slope)

Assorted boxed chocolates as it relates to aromas (Eric). Smooth, grippy tannins. Deep, ripe red fruit. Dried cranberry. Fresh, sunny, bright red blend.

Wine #3. Contrada Calderara Sottano Etna Rosso 2021 (NM from N slope)

Black fruits and spices with evident tannins. Long fruity finish.

According to Eric, full body with a velvet smooth finish.  

For Sean: Tannic. Could be good with red meat. Good with food -- something spicy. Dark cherries on the mouth.

                                                                    

Wine #4. Benanti Contrada Monte Serra Etna Rosso 2020 (NM from SE slope)

Eric -- Immediate sweet red licorice , candied cherry, and simple syrup on the nose. Tight, sharp tannins on the palate with lively, "popping" fruit on the finish.

Wine #5. Benanti Contrada Cavaliere Etna Rosso 2021 (NM from SW slope) — Santa Maria di Licodia

Red fruit, herbs, and spice on the nose. Medium-bodied. Ripe tannins and lengthy finish.

Eric -- Cough medicine on the nose

Wine #6. Benanti Nerello Cappuccio Terre Siciliane Rosso 2021 (NC from SW slope) — Santa Maria di Licodia

Dried flowers and cherries on the nose. Medium-bodied with an ephemeral finish.

Eric -- Ripe, pleasant cherry. Short finish with notes of black and red pepper and faded cough syrup.

Wine #7. Gaja IDDA Etna Rosso 2021 (NM from SW slope) — Biancavilla

Violets and black cherry on the nose. Ripe fruit on the palate. Low acidity. Smooth.

Eric -- Wet tobacco on the nose. Moroschino cherry, mint, slate minerality, and faint cough drop on the palate.

Flight 5: Rosso Riserva

Wine #1. Benanti Rovittello Particella No 341 Etna Rosso Riserva 2016 (NM (90%) & NC (10%) from N slope)

Focused, with notes of florality, ripe fruit, and spice on the nose. Concentrated and balanced on the palate. Mineral with a lengthy finish.

Eric -- Rich red fruit. Tannin-dominant.

Wine #2. Benanti Serra Della Contessa Particella No. 587 Etna Rosso Riserva 2016 (NM (85%) & NC (15%) from SE slope)

Elegant. Ripe red fruit and mineral on the nose. Medium-bodied with light tannins and a lengthy finish.

Eric -- Full red fruit with slightly stewed components and spice.

While all slopes exhibited ripe fruit the fruit from the southern slopes seem to evince even riper characters and Eric consistently mentions a sweet medicinal character in those wines.

Attendee Observations

Brian Herbst — I gotta say, the tasting proves me right. The whites are always fantastic. I was trying to follow the reds but it was difficult with placement sometimes but that’s on me. To me the reds need some age. That’s my start. I always will love the whites.

Al Archibald — I actually liked the whites more than I did the reds… the whites were just elegant ..  they had some hints of stone fruit and not as much lemon and lime as does a Sauvignon Blanc.. also way more refreshing. The acidity is not overpowering but enough for a good finish. The whites were actually more balanced than I thought they would be. The sparkling wines were actually good. I definitely need to drink more.

Now the reds were good, calling a Pinot Noir to mind. Red fruit and medium alcohol, which made it delightful to drink — and even better with food. The complexity increased with oxygenation. You actually taste everything you smell on the palate.

Richard Cohen — I was pleasantly surprised by the quality. I thought the sparkling wines were ordinary. The whites were very balanced and enjoyable. All but two of the reds were great. They were balanced and food friendly, begging to have something with a red sauce or a spicy Cioppino. I may be crazy but I thought I got a hit of cranberry in them.  I don’t think these wines are meant to age. Have to find a local merchant that carries them. Thank you for the opportunity. I really enjoyed. 

Sean Hall — Well this go around I fear I was too distracted by Matt’s constant banter. I think I only really focused on the whites, and then Matt poured one of his massive Cali cabs, which destroyed my palate. 

©Wine -- Mise en abyme