Tasting of selected Greek wines: The reds

My most recent post described a tasting that I hosted in Orlando for area Sommeliers, wine retailers, and collectors and, specifically, focused on the sparkling and white wines included therein. Based on the feedback of a subset of the attendees, the Karanika Brut Cuvees, the Domaine Zafeirakis Malagousia 2015, and the Domaine Costa Lazaridis Semillon 2014 were the most well-regarded of the wines tasted up to that point. This post will cover the red wines tasted on that day: the 2006 and 1999 Domaine Economou Sitia and several vintages of Domaine Porto Carras' Chateau Porto Carras,

As was the case for the previous posts, I have solicited feedback from selected participants and use their voices to report on the tasting. The panelists utilized thusly are:

• John Siudut, Proprietor, Vintage Vino
• Andres Montoya, Proprietor, The Wine Barn
• Jill Kathyrn Davis, Former Head Sommelier Capa Grill at the Four Seasons and Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse
• Ron Siegel, Collector
• Juan Valencia, Assistant General Manager and Sommelier Norman's at the Ritz Grande Lakes.

Domaine Economou Flight
I encountered this wine for the first time when I was in Athens for the 4th Anniversary Winelovers reunion. The 2006 was served as a part of a dinner we were having at Vintage Wine Bar and Bistro but the owner, Panos Kyriazis, mentioned to me that the recently released 1999 was even better. That sounded like a dare so I bit and purchased a bottle. It was good. So good that I went back the following evening in order to taste this wine again. Once I got back to the US, I sought out the wine and stocked both the 2006 and the 1999 in my cellar.

The figure below provides some background on the estate and its operating environment.

The panelists shared my view that this producer is doing an excellent job and that the 1999 vintage was the better of the two.

John thought that the Domaine Economou Flight was surprising considering the release dates of the wines. He really enjoyed the brooding power of the 2006 and the distinct power and structure of the 1999 which matured in the glass and was the better wine. These wines reminded Jill of Valpolicella in that they had a raisinated note with high acid.

Juan found the 2006 to be slightly oxidative and raisinated up front. Sweet and sour cherries appeared on the palate shortly thereafter. Supple tannins. Andres saw this wine as having "warm scents of garrigue, smoke, tar, and rose petal," the latter of which could be associated with Nebbiolo from warmer sites. "In the mouth it shows lead pencil, smoked plum, anise and currants, which make it seem closer to Cabernet on the finish."

The Economou 1999, according to Andres, had a beautiful nose of violets, grilled herbs, and red plum (it reminded him of Nerello Mascalese), shows high acidity, and finishes with intensity. This vintage is showing very well. Juan: "Wow. Muscular for its age. Very well structured in terms of acid, and tannin. Fruit was dried and fresh simultaneously."

Chateau Porto Carras Flights
I have described the Domaine Porto Carras environment in a prior post.

The Porto Carras was tasted in three flights: Flight 1 -- 2006, 1990, 1993, and 1989; flight 2 -- 1995, 2001, 1994, 1985; flight 3 -- 1981.

Ron said the dog ate his homework so he made an overall assessment. "As noted at the tasting I thought the 1993 and 2001 of your vertical stood out for me. Both were very Bordeaux-like and displayed beautiful red berry fruits with floral notes and baking spices. Elegant and balanced on the finish with good structure."

John thought that Domaine Porto Carras flights were the obvious highlight with "an amazing mix of vintages and flavors."  His favorites included the 1993 with its bold fruit and incredible length.  "The 2001 was nearly as good but the showstopper was the 1994, awash in mint and black fruit flavors ..." He would love a chance to taste this paired with an entree dish.  "And one cannot forget the 2006 magnum which I thought was the best right out of the gate but as the other wines settled in the glass it got slightly outpaced."

Juan's assessment of the flights were as follows:

Flight 1:

2006 - Young and fresh. Explosion of red fruit flavor with a slight barnyard funk. Taut and destined for greatness.

1990 - Muted and starting to fade. Might be past the zenith of opportunity in its lifespan.

1993 - Tar, canned vegetables, smoke, compost, all with a dash of brett. A hermit of a wine with stories to tell.

1989- Muted on the nose, wet earth and moss on the palate. Very little character.

Flight 2:

1995 - Delicious. So alive in every way; fruit, acid, tannin, everything. All the greatness of Bordeaux with a very original personality. My winner of the flight.

2001 - Wow. A little wilder than the other vintages we had so far. More of a farmhouse character of dried hay, brett, and basket of dried red fruit. Vibrant acidity lifting all the dimensions of flavor. Second favorite of the flight.

1994 - Comments all around were comparing to Grange. I am not as versed, but I got a very savory character out of this vintage. Like salted and cured meat, spice, herb. Umami.

1985 - First one was corked. Second one was much better, but still slightly flawed in my opinion. A meditative wine. The most thought provoking of the night.

Flight 3:

1981- Showing very well. Still fresh for its age. Elegant and wrinkled. I tried to listen to its story but I’m still learning the language of old wine.  

Andres' assessment of the flights:

Flight 1:

2006 - Petrol, smoke, cherry. Nice finish, reminds me of a Sangiovese-based Tuscan blend. 

1990 - Mint, eucalyptus, little fruit left on the nose or in mouth. Over the hill.

1993 - My #1 Wine of the tasting. Glorious nose of black currant, baking spice, black tea, anise, and peanut oil. Excellent mouthfeel, high acid. Very left bank Bordeaux-like! Reminded me of a Pichon-Lalande on the nose and the finish.

1989 - Faint smell of black tea and leather. Short finish. Over the hill.

Flight 2:

1995 - Green bean, eucalyptus, and "stemmy" aromatics. Smells underripe. Short finish.

2001 - My #2 (tie) pick - Excellent nose, black plum, licorice, grilled herbs, and smoke. Showing very fresh and still youthful, good acid, long finish.

1994 - My #2 (tie) pick - Excellent. Baking spice, tar, menthol, black currants and tanned leather. Reminds me of a Penfolds Grange from the early 90's. Seamless finish. Very complete. 

1985 - First bottle corked. Second bottle showed dried herbs, black tea and dusty tannins. Showing its age. 

1981 - Not showing any signs of life. 

The wines which garnered the most acclaim were the 1993, 1994, 2001, and 2006. And this mirrors what I had found with two of these wines that I had tasted while at the estate. At the time I had stated: "it was the Bordeaux blends that blew me away with spice, tobacco, cedar, dark chocolate, and vanilla notes accompanying a red-fruit character, velvety feel, and lengthy finish. The 1993 was just an evolved version of the 2006."

It is not clear to me what causes the variation in the vintages given the relatively even climatic conditions but methinks that the estate may have some storage issues because of the varying conditions of the bottles delivered to me. At its best this is a Bordeaux blend which is world class. When the purchase price is factored in, it becomes even more attractive.

*************************************************************************************************************

The group had not had extensive experience with Greek wines prior to this tasting and it was heartening to see the generally positive manner in which they reacted to the wines presented. An example of this sentiment was John's comments: "Thank you again for a great afternoon!  I enjoyed the tasting immensely and was very happy to attend along with a wonderful assemblage of wine people.  I haven't had Greek wine since my visit to the islands back in 2006, so I was surprised to taste so many interesting wines with complex structures. Again it was an honor to be invited and I look forward to the next lunch tasting."  Jill: "Overall, it was evident that Greek wine deserves our attention. All of the wines Keith selected were quality wines at ridiculously low prices considering. I am sure we will see much more from Greece in the future."

I look forward to sharing different Greek wines with this group in the not-too-distant future.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Orlando tasting of selected Greek wines: The sparkling and whites

Switching from absorption to evangelizing, I recently held a tasting of selected Greek wines for Sommeliers, retailers, and collectors here in Orlando. The tasting was held at Capital Grille (International Drive) on May 25th and included the following wines:

Sparkling: Karanika Brut Cuvee Speciale, Karanika Brut Cuvee Prestige, Karanika Brut Rose
White: Ktima Gerovassiliou Malagousia 2014, Boutari Malagousia 2015, Domaine Zafeirakis Malagousia 2015, Domaine Costa Lazaridis Semillon 2014
Red: Domaine Economou Sitia (2006, 1999), Domaine Porto Carras Chateau Porto Carras (2006, 1990, 1993, 1989, 2001, 1994, 1985, 1981).

All of the wines were sourced from the author's private collection.

This post will cover the sparkling and white wines with the reds being covered in a subsequent post. I solicited the perspectives of attendees post the event and use their voices herein.

Sparkling Flight

I have previously recounted my initial exposure to this wine as well as its growing conditions and production process.

John Siudut (Proprietor, Vintage Vino): "Sparkling is always a great way to begin any tasting and I was glad to share a toast at the beginning (Prior to the actual tasting, I had opened a few bottles of Chartogne-Taillet to serve as ice-breakers).  The first three wines in the sparkling lineup were all outstanding, but my favorite was the Rosé which held me riveted with its complex, fresh red fruit flavors and its beautiful length."

Jill Kathryn Davis (former Head Sommelier at Capa Grill at the Four Seasons and Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse): "I have only ever tasted Xinamavro as a red still wine. Karanika’s Brut surprised me. Who knew anyone was even making sparkling wine in Greece, let alone méthode traditionelle with organic Xinamavro grapes in Amyndeon." She thought that the Karanika wines "showed incredibly well" and that "the relatively new project has lots of potential."

Juan Valencia (Assistant General Manager and Sommelier, Norman's at the Ritz Grande Lakes) saw the Karanika Brut Cuvee Speciale as "dense and creamy" with "large gluttonous bubbles"and a "dried red fruit component." He felt that bright acidity was the driving force for this wine. For Andres Montoya (Proprietor, The Wine Barn) this wine was medium-bodied, with a light mineral quality, good acid, and a long, powdery finish. He found it to be a very nice introduction to Xinomavro.

Juan saw the Karanika Brut Cuvee Prestige as much more tropical than the Cuvee Speciale with bubbles that seemed a little finer. "On the palate, focused and angular. Reminiscent of dried apricots and green strawberries. Clean finish as was the case for the Speciale. For Andrew, this wine had a "fuller style, intense mouthfeel, poached pear, mineral and lightly yeasty character. High acid and salinity on the finish."

There was a lack of unanimity as regards the Karanika Brut Rose. As we saw above, it was John's favorite. Juan, however, described it as "tootie fruity" with slight residual sugar. To him it "seemed geared to the poolside consumer rather than serious wine drinkers" and had "lots of room for improvement." Andres described it thusly: dark pink color; intense nose of watermelon and red cherry; rich mousse; residual sugar is very evident. Finishes flat. Low acid.

All participants were amazed at the price point of these wines and clearly saw them, especially the Cuvees, as extremely good value for money.

White Flight
This flight consisted of three Malagousias and one Semillon, the latter of which had been gifted to me by Yiannis Karakasis on my most recent trip to Athens. I have covered the potential origins of Malagousia as well as the Ktima Gerovassiliou operations in prior posts.

John thought that this flight was pleasant but a slight step down in quality from the Sparkling wines. According to John, "I enjoyed the diverse profiles of all the wines and, although none of them reached outstanding, all three were in the good to very good range. I enjoyed the Domaine Zafeirakis Malagousia 2015 a great deal and was impressed by the balanced acidity. I would love to try it with some white fish to see how well it would pair with food. The Semillon was a hard read at first, but the richness and the fruit flavors opened up in the glass.

Malagousia is not a varietal with which Jill was very familiar. She felt that the selection of versions from different producers and regions allows one to see the varietal for itself. She found the varietal  aromatic and not overly acidic. Her personal favorite of the flight was the Domaine Zafeirakis.

Juan saw the Gerovassiliou Malagouzia 2014 as having "pretty white floral aromas, dried muscat, dried peach, nectarine flesh" and being refreshing on the palate. Andres concurred with that characterization: "floral, dry-muscat like, with orange blossom, honeydew and honeysuckle aromas. Reminds me of the dry muscats produced in Malaga by Victoria Ordonez (Botani)."

The Boutari Malagouzia 2015 had "Jasmine and artificial jasmine on the nose, almost like dish soap lavender. On the palate, the wine had an awkward steely character that fell flat. Somewhat awkward" (Juan). Andrew saw it as simple and clean with a light finish.

The consensus winner among the Malagousias was the Zafeirakis. Juan saw it as having "vibrant lavender and citrus oil on the nose. Bright acidity leading the way for ripe stone fruit on the palate. Winner of the lineup for Malagouzia." Andres struck the only discordant note finding it to be refreshing but less aromatic than the Gerovassiliou and having a simple finish.

The Costa Lazaridi Semillon was universally liked. Andres: "powerful, intense aromatics, poached pear, tangerine, vanilla bean, creamy mouthfeel. Reminds me of a Napa Chardonnay made in a full style but still showing good fruit, oak, and not overdone. Juan was equally poetic: "simply delicious. Exotic tropical fruit on the nose like guava flesh, overripe red mango, and golden pineapple. Meaty and brooding tropical fruit on the palate. Beautifully lifted finish. Like an echo that slowly fades.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Ristorante Il Centro: Priocca D'Alba's (Piemonte) contribution to culinary excellence

In the week or so that I recently spent in Piemonte, no higher praise did I hear, nor better dining experience had I, than for/at Ristorante Il Centro, the establishment owned by the Cordero family and located almost in the shadow of Chiese parrocchiale di San Rocco e Sant'Elisabetta in Priocca d'Alba.

Ristorante Il Centro (Used with permission)

Chiese parrocchiale di San Rocco e Sant'Elisabetta

I first encountered this restaurant at the Labor of Love (the Suzanne Hoffman book on Piemontese wine families) pre-launch dinner and was impressed by: the wine cellar (both its esthetics and content): the sommelier Giampiero Cordero (knowledge, charm, kindness, and engaging character): the food (pleasing in both appearance and taste; innovative); the ease with which a large party was handled; and the overarching sense of humbleness which emanated from all of the family members that I met.

As I went around Piemonte visiting wineries and other restaurants, the question invariably asked was "Where have you eaten while in Piemonte?" When I mentioned Il Centro, the feedback was universally positive. Luca Cigluiti of La Spinetta and Contratto said that it is the only restaurant in the region where he feels he could eat every day. The food, he said, was tasty and did not leave you feeling heavy upon completion. With all of the goodwill directed at the restaurant, we decided to pay a return visit and did so for its Sunday Brunch.

Before discussion of our brunch experience, some background is in order. A noted eatery had existed at the current location for 100 years before it came into the Cordero family by acquisition in 1956. Pierin Cordero and his wife Rita, abetted by the culinary skills of Pierin's mother Lidia, began to firmly imprint the Cordero name on this establishment. When Pierin died in 1970, Rita took the reins and continued to build on the gastronomic traditions established by Lidia. When Pierin died, Enrico was 18 years old and he left school at that time to take over management of the enterprise. Elis dropped into the restaurant seeking employment and one year later was running the kitchen. And today her culinary skills are widely lauded. Their children are involved in the family business with Giampiero having primary responsibility for cellar development and wine service while his sister, who is a journalist in New York City, is responsible for marketing and some financial aspects of the business.

Giampiero, his mom Elis (also the Chef), and his dad Enrico
with Suzanne Hoffman at the Labor of Love pre-launch dinner

The restaurant's philosophy is that tradition and innovation are not necessarily countervailing forces and that careful attention to both will continue to yield success. And the the success of the application of that philosophy is reflected in the wide acclaim that the cuisine has garnered. The restaurant also receives kudos for the cellar and its contents. The cellar has a table in its outer chamber where tastings or small dinners can be held and an inner chamber where more than 600 labels of regional and international wines are kept.

So back to the brunch. We chose to eat the 5-course tasting menu which drew three selections from the appetizers and one each from the first- and second-plate sections of the menu. The first two dishes ordered were Acacia Flower and Salumi (the salumi had a lighter color due to no chemicals being used in its preparation) preparation and Sweet and Sour Pepper and Anchovies. The acacia flower had been dipped in flour batter and then lightly fried and had a crunchy texture along with hints of sweetness and some salt. The pepper had been cured in-house from September of last year using sugar, olive oil, and vinegar,  a combination which provided an explosion of contrasting flavors in the mouth.

Acacia Flower and Salumi

Sweet and Sour Pepper and Anchovies

The first wine ordered was the Contratto For England Rosé 2010, a sparkling wine from the Alta Langa Metodo Classico DOCG. A clean, unyielding nose with a subdued mousse, strawberry flavor, and a bitter finish. Bitter rose water with limited persistence.

The second course ordered was a Veal Cooked Under Salt and Prawns with Asparagus. I had had the veal on my previous visit and it was still excellent. The saltiness calls out for an ameliorating liquid.The Prawns had been lightly fried in a lemon, ginger, and olive oil emulsion and was giving, with a dark brown color. Very pleasing. The asparagus had a piney flavor and a crunchy texture.

Veal Cooked under Salt

Prawns with Asparagus

A Smoked Sturgeon and Roasted Quail Salad followed. The sturgeon was the least favorite of my dishes as the earthiness and the texture did not work well together for me. It may also have been overdone. The Quail, on the other hand, was pleasing to both the eye and the palate. The little drumsticks just begged to be handled; and when they were, they rewarded with salt and smokiness, great texture, and perfect temperature. The breast chunks were well marinated and did not suffer from lack of proximity to a bone (How far away from a bone can you be if you are quail meat?). This latter dish was accompanied by home-made peppers and pearled onions.

Smoked Sturgeon

Roasted Quail Salad

I was pleased to see a 2011 GD Vajra Riesling on the Il Centro list. After consultation with Giampiero, I ordered a bottle. It reinforced my convictions regarding this wine. It had a light golden color, hinting at the development it had undergone. On the nose, initially, petrol, golden apple, white pepper, and a soapiness. On the palate pineapple (underripe), intense acidity, minerality, and tamarind. A long, drying finish which evolved into an intense chalkiness with a metallic undertone. After a while in the glass, the wine transitioned to lemon-lime dominance both on the nose and palate but still distinct petrol. Additional time in the glass brought grapefruit into the equation and a growing black pepper and Indian spice presence. Minerality still present. Wine more focused and weightier on the palate. Giampiero mentioned that, three or four years ago, there were only three or four Riesling producers in the region, with Vajra the leader. With the success of the pioneers, there are now over 20 Riesling producers in the region but Il Centro will only carry three; one of which is Vajra.

The Ravioli Stuffed with Pork Ribs and Sweetbreads and the Gluten-Free Pasta in Tomato Sauce were excellent dishes both. The Ravioli was another of the dishes I had tried previously and was excited to revisit.

Ravioli Stuffed with Pork Ribs and Sweetbreads

Gluten-Free Pasta

The final dishes were a Breaded Veal Steak with Salad and a Roasted Cod with Crispy Vegetable Thins. The veal was excellent with the soft inner core contrasting admirably with the textured, seasoned breading. The codfish was wonderful, a savory explosion of tomatoes and herbs. This dish was paired with a 2009 Marzino Abbona Terlo Ravera.

Breaded Veal Steak with Salad

Roasted Cod with Crispy Vegetable Thins

The dishes served were excellent but I would be doing the restaurant a disservice if I did not mention the service. Giampiero was an excellent Wine Steward, being there exactly when needed (whether for conversation or for wine orders) and his scope of knowledge (in terms of the wines and winemakers) is immense. He likes to think of the people who make the wine when he is drinking it as his enjoyment is increased if he knows its story.

The wait staff was well-trained and quietly efficient. You got the sense of them hovering just off set and rushing in at the slightest indication of need. Enrico was a presence, pitching in in a silent yet familiar manner. He knows everyone sitting around you, knows their life stories. His conversations with the guests are substantial.

In Piemonte? Visit this place. You have been before? Go again.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

A Labor of Love: The Launch of Suzanne Hoffman's book on Piemontese wine families

The big day had arrived. All of the years of hard work had resulted in a meticulously researched, professionally edited, and beautifully bound manuscript, a product – A Labor of Love – that Suzanne Hoffman could be proud of. And she was. But this was a big day in another sense. She would be launching the book in a formal ceremony with the families, and their families, in attendance. The slightest slip could undo years of work and do significant damage to her credibility; a credibility required to move this project forward and to underpin any future related efforts.

The launch event was held at Ca’del Baio, a Barbaresco estate. The program called for a 4:30 pm Apertivo (that word again) to be followed by a presentation and then refreshments and light fare. The day was overcast to begin with and the skies became increasingly ominous as the day progressed. By the time I arrived at the location, and maneuvered my car into a space on the approach road, it had begun spitting.

I had not visited Ca’del Baio previously and was impressed by the portions of the exterior visible to me as I made my way onto the property.

The settings were in place for the event. A large table was front and center of rows of chairs and benches. On each side of the table, a microphone-topped stand. On the table itself, four copies of the book, with yellow stickies positioned to mark the beginning of each section. Each family was being asked to sign on the page introducing their section and one the four books thus signed would be donated to charity.

Suzanne was flitting around welcoming and organizing everyone that came in. She was hyped. I finally got to meet Elatia Harris, Suzanne’s editor and tireless contributor to the group Writing the Kitchen. I also saw, and refreshed relations with, Francesca Vaira and her Mom and Anna Savino and her husband (Claudio Brizio) and son (Nico).

Francesca and Milena Vaira and Parlo

Parlo, Anna Savino, the author, Claudio Brizo, and Nico

The setup had the panelist table under cover on the patio with rows of chairs/benches spreading outwards from that central spot.  As the weather worsened, the decision was made to arrange the chairs and benches to the side of the table so that they too could take advantage of the protection offered by the patio cover.

And people kept coming. And the music kept playing. And beautiful music it was. A combination of recorded, modern-day-Sinatra-style music interspersed with live saxophone sessions of extremely high quality.

By the way, the Aperitivo never materialized. And it was probably a good thing because the start of the presentation kept getting pushed back (an over-apertivoed audience would probably not have been as sensitive to the finer points of the presentation that was eventually delivered). Eventually Suzanne gave the 5-minute sign; and the session began 10 minutes later.

Seated at the Panelist Table were Suzanne, Maurizo Rosso (author and estate owner), noted winemaker Chiara Boschis (whose hands are featured prominently on the cover of the book), and Pete Hagnauer, a friend from Switzerland who would be doing the Italian-to-English translation of Maurizio’s speech.

Pete Hagnauer, Chiara Boschis, Suzanne Hoffman, and
Maurizio Rosso

Maurizio was the first speaker and provided an excellent framework for Suzanne to work within. He himself had written a book (Mystique of Barolo) -- essentially an oral history of the men of the region –which served Suzanne "as a roadmap for editorial development" and as a "reference resource." He talked about a recent and important phenomenon wherein many wineries are now being run by women. Suzanne’s book, he said, captures this generational change (It was interesting watching the emotions sweep across Suzanne’s features as Maurizio went through various aspects of his speech: laughter; tears; smiling out at the crowd; recognizing and pointing to various individuals; and nodding in agreement as Maurizio mentioned a particular family or story.).

Maurizio said that Suzanne and her husband came from Switzerland expecting physical warmth; but they did not get that here. What they got instead was human warmth in the families that they met. He also went on to point out that Italy is a man’s world but it is the nonna (the Grandmother) who is the driver in the family. Suzanne has found this out, he said, and has covered it in her book. He then formally introduced Suzanne and passed her the microphone.

Suzanne Hoffman

Suzanne’s presentation was in English and Chiaris Boschis did the translation for those requiring same. Suzanne began by thanking, among others, Giovanna’s Grandmother (for inspiration) and the Grosso’s of Ca’del Baio (for their hospitality and inspiration over all the years that this book was gestating). She then did a roll call of the family names and asked the members representing each family to stand and be recognized on hearing their name. At this point we saw the first blip of the emotion that would break through with varying levels of intensity during the course of the presentation.

The roll call was by book chapter (each chapter covering a family)  and, as Suzanne explained, there was no order to the chapters except in two cases: Giovanna Rizzolio of Cascina delle Rosso and Chiara Boschis. They were the first two chapters due to the outsize roll thy played in the evolution of the book. She also made a point to the audience that many of these families did not know each other and she was hopeful that the book (and this event) would occasion their getting to better know each other. The list of names was like a Langhe, Roero, and Monferrato Hall of Fame: Scavino, Guiseppe Rinaldi, Bartolo Mascarello, …

At the conclusion of the roll call, Suzanne extended thanks to the persons who had contributed to the effort. She thanked the families for their patience and confidence in entrusting their stories to her. These families were definitely a part of the equation; but she also had a team.

She chose to publish the book “Indie”, she said, because she wanted to publish it now. She did not want to lose any more of the contributing family members prior to the book being published. She thanked Pierangelo Vacchetto for the images (She wanted photos that showed people as they were and the images provided accomplished that goal.). She thanked Diane Zaharunec who served as Press Representative when the presses began to roll in Verona. She thanked her Designer (Cindi Yaklich) and Copy Editor (Jody Berman), "both unseen, but present in spirit through their work." She thanked Elatia Harris, her Editor, who had traveled from Boston to be with her on this day. According to Suzanne, Elatia’s “ability to see into families hearts was amazing and a key reason why we have the book we have today.”

She thanked the printer, Verona Libri. She used them because they are good plus she wanted the authenticity of having a book on Piemonte wine families printed in Italy. She thanked her husband and publisher (another break in the voice), without whom she could not have done this. She also acknowledged Jeffrey Chilcott, Cellar master at Marchesi di Gresy who, she said, opened many a cellar door. And finally she thanked Alberto di Gresy for giving her the initial insight into the power of the nonna. “It is no accident that his words are the first words that appear in the book.”

She ended her presentation with a fiery, stirring, emotion-packed close which included an admonition to the families: “You do something for the world. Don’t you forget it.” This line brought the attendees to their feet and the applause was reminiscent of the finish of a great Barolo. No golf claps here. No crickets present.

At the conclusion of her presentation Suzanne took up a position at the table for what would turn out to be a marathon book-signing session. The attendees, meanwhile, repaired to the drink and fare stations.

Michaela at work

If one aspect of the launch event was to bring these families together, that goal was accomplished in spades as families lingered long after the presentation chatting, drinking wine, getting multiple copies of the book signed, and listening to the excellent music.

Maria Teresa Mascarello and the author

I have not yet reviewed the book but, post this event, and seeing the families in the manner that I have, this is a task that I am looking forward to with great anticipation.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Overview of the soils of Sicily

I recently made a visit to the eastern portion of Sicily and will be writing a number of posts on the wineries visited. I will intersperse the discussion of the wineries with details of the physical environment within which they operate. I begin in this post with an overview of the soils of the broader Sicily, drawing heavily on the scholarship of Nesto MW and di Savino (The World of Sicilian Wine).

According to Christopher Bargman (Geology and wine in South Africa, Geoscientist 15(4), April 2005), soil is the major influence on the growth of the vine plant as it provides: (i) a supply of water; (ii) anchorage in the ground; and (iii) a source of nutrition.  According to education.mhusa.com, " soil is more than just dirt."  It is, instead, "... a complex system of decomposed rocks that have been enriched over time by decomposed organic matter."  Nesto MW and di Savino see soil as being "composed of varying proportions of parent rock eroded in place; material transported by gravity, wind, water, or glacial activity; and organic material deposited in place or similarly transported." The classic soil profile is shown below.

Source: westone.wa.gov.au

According to Nesto and di Savino, Sicily is 15% flat, 60% hilly, and 25 percent mountainous, a situation precipitated by the slow contraction of the vast ocean lying between the land masses of Africa and Eurasia. This contraction, especially over the past 50 years, has pushed up the cretaceous limestone seabed -- formed by a mixture of mud, skeletons, and shells of marine organisms deposited over eons -- to form the mountains and hills that we see today. The below figure summarizes the distribution of parent rock and soils on the island while the table following details the characteristics of the differing soil types.

Soil Type	Location	Qualities	Disadvantages
Calcareous	Everywhere except northeast      corner and on some volcanic islands	Enhances water-holding capacity Soils white or pastel and reflect light Cooler than darker soils Vines tend to produce wines that are paler, more aromatic, higher in acidity, lower in tannins Suited to white wines If leached from limestone, the iron oxide residue tints the soil red (terra rossa)	Offers soil few nutrients
Volcanic	Etna Hyblaean Mountains Aeolian Archipelago Pantellaria	Soil particle size range from dust to rocks; sand predominates Rock types include pumice, lapilli (smaller particles of black volcanic rock) Tuff (hardened volcanic ash) Rich in micronutrients Usually very porous and allow easy exploitation by vine roots Inhospitable to phylloxera  Like clay soils, allow high degree of physiological development in grape skins	Poor in macronutrients nitrogen and phosphate
Schist	Relatively rare Some shaly schists in Nebrodi A complex mix of calc-shists and paragneiss (a harder foliated rock) in the Peloritani	Can store water between foliations for vine root access Can quickly decompose into sand, clay, or silt

Derived from Nesto MW and di Savino


©Wine -- Mise en abyme

A historical retrospective (1961 - 2011) of Vietti Barolo Rocche di Castiglione with Antonio Galloni and Luca Currado (Winemaker)

Antonio Galloni described his May 10, 2016 Vietti Barolo Rocche di Castiglione retrospective as a "once-in-a-lifetime vertical tasting ... going back to the inaugural 1961." All of the wines for the tasting (with the exception of the 1982 vintage) were acquired either from the Vietti cellars or the personal collection of the Currado family (The 1982 was secured from the the San Francisco restaurant Acquerello).

Used with permission. Courtesy of Vinous, LLC.

In his opening remarks, Antonio described this as a night of firsts. The attendees were drinking 2008 Pierre Péters Champagne at the reception and this wine remained unreleased at the time of the tasting. Antonio had brought it back from France in his suitcase in March. In addition, Luca Currado (Vietti winemaker), and his wife Elena Penna, were present, making their inaugural visit to one of these tastings. The 1961 Vietti Barolo was one of the foundations on which Barolo single-vineyard wines were built and the estate is honoring that event with a 50th-anniversary celebration, of which the Galloni retrospective was an integral part. The 1961 vintage was to be tasted tonight.

The wines were presented in five themed flights. This approach, according to Galloni, breaks up the palate and keeps everyone fresh. The wines had been opened at 4:30 on the day of the tasting and double-decanted. The younger wines were decanted first while wines from the 1980s were served out of decanters. The tasting was organized as shown in the table below.

Flight	Nomenclature	Inclusive Vintages
0	Reception	2008 Pierre Péters Brut Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons
1	To Start	1986, 1988, 1995, 2011
2	Years of Transition	1996, 1999, 2001
3	Modern Icons	2004, 2006, 2008, 2010
4	The Classics	1982, 1985, 1989, 1990
5	Back to the Beginning	1967, 1971

To Start
The first wine tasted was the 1986. Luca was attending enological school during this vintage when the area was hit by hail on a late morning in early May, causing the loss of 2/3 of the crop. If the hail occurs early enough, you can still make good wine. And they did. This was the wine of the flight. Balsamic, stewed fruit, iron, tea, dried rose petals, herbs and a savoriness on the nose. On the palate intense red fruit along with olives, mushroom, leather, licorice, and white truffle. Balanced with a long, elegant finish.

The 1988 exhibited dark fruit, earth, forest floor, and mushrooms on the nose. Short, sweet, and slightly porty on the palate. Brooding. Not as focused as the 1986. Antonio said that when this wine was introduced it did not attract a lot of commercial attention. The press was in love with the 1985 but old timers like the 1988. Luca indicated that this was his first harvest experience as winemaker with his father.

The 1995 had the longest maceration of any wine they have ever produced. Herby nose initially. Young, with a slight balsamic note. Very young wine on the palate. Antonio remarked that it was almost grape juice.

The 2011 showed an elegant nose with blue fruit, dark fruit, and herbs. Licorice and youthful on the palate. Non-complex but pleasant. Luca likes this vintage. He likes  a wine with acidity and he finds that even though this wine is opulent, it has great acidity. He thinks it will be good in the long term.

Grilled Spanish Octopus with Chickpeas and
Chorizo

Years of Transition
The 1996 was the wine of this flight. Balsamic, dried rose petals, and dried herbs on the nose. Tight focus. Elegant. Engages all elements of the palate. This wine will age forever. According to Luca, Rocche likes cool vintages and such conditions prevailed for this wine. Luca likes it because of its freshness. He called it "super classic."

The 1999 was restrained and elegant on the nose with hints of anise and licorice. Dried tamarind. Perfect balance. Great weight on the palate. Luca liked this wine a lot. It was a difficult wine to sell when he first delivered it to the market. He had been afraid that it would never mature but it started to open up three years or so ago.

The 2011 was the most opulent of the wines tasted to date. Dried fruits with a strong balsamic note. Young and fruity. Luca described it as monolithic while Antonio saw it as having a faster evolution than he had expected. According to Luca, the "most different" of the wines that we had tasted. If he had to do it over, he would harvest this wine earlier. It has more of a modern feel and does not have enough acidity. This wine can be drunk now.

Épaulettes: Rabbit & Reblochon Cheese Ravioli,
Black Truffle

Modern Icons
The 2004 exhibited spice, red fruit, lead pencil, and licorice. Unctuous. Sweetness on the palate along with great acidity, tar, licorice, and anise. Weighty. Rich, long finish. A long growing season and the first vintage of finesse in Barolo (Antonio Galloni).

The 2006 exhibited tar, earth, and licorice on the nose and licorice and anise on the palate. Virile and powerful but with silky tannins.

Herbs, earth, and intense red fruit on the 2008 nose. Sweet red fruit on palate. Medium complexity. Antonio described this as the most surprising vintage. Continues to improve.

Rich red fruit on the nose of the 2010 along with rose petal, mint, and tar. Rich red fruit and anise on palate. Powerful. Lengthy, tart finish. According to Antonio, has been fantastic from the beginning.

Lotte Rôtie: Roasted Monkfish, Foie Gras
Stuffed Morels, Potato, Red Wine

The Classics
According to Luca, these wines were all made by his mom and dad. They inspired him when he was a kid but the family never had the wherewithal to keep stocks of these wines in the cellar.

The 1982 showed Granny's attic, balsamic, soy, and a little maderization. Dried fruit on the palate. Mineral finish. Luca's dad liked this vintage and it is also a favorite of his. If he encounters it on a wine list, he buys it.

The 1985 had an aromatic nose. Hints of pumpkin, truffle, and sweet, bountiful red fruit. Balanced on the palate with a slight portiness. Pleasure to drink. First climate change vintage in Barolo, according to Antonio. Luca has it at its peak.

Sweet red fruit and licorice on the nose of the 1989 and earth, red fruit, and silky tannins on the palate. Lengthy finish. Luca terms this a "super classic."

The 1990 showed balsamic notes, red fruits, dried rose petals, and curry on the nose. On the palate sweet, concentrated red fruit accompanying good acid levels and a distinct curry flavor. Long finish.

Selle d'Agneau Grillée: Grilled Colorado Lamb
Loin, Mushrooms, Spring Onion, Mint Lamb
Sausage

Back to the Beginning
In this flight, some of the earliest Rocches. Beginning with the 1967 which showed dried herbs, portiness, and a stewed character. Not much on the body or finish. Appearance as of colored water.

The 1961 was salmon colored. Maderized with dried out lemon, bitter lemon, and orange rind. Good acid levels. Could be anything.

According to Luca, drinking these wines is like dancing with an old lady -- you have to be careful.

Selection de Fromages

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This had been an amazing night. The depth and breadth of the wines on offer was truly amazing and to have Luca and Elena present for this event added a level of authenticity and local knowledge that took the tasting to another level.

The dishes that accompanied the courses were excellent and the choice of locale continued Antonio's thrust to show that these Italian wines can thrive in non-Italian-cuisine settings

As a part of the 50th Anniversary Celebrations, Vietti had had 200 memorabilia gift boxes made to mark the occasion. Each attendee at the event left with one of those boxes which the estate had had shipped in for the event.

One of the interesting points of note was the performance of the oldest Rocches versus the 1958 Bartolo Mascarello which we had tasted in London three weeks prior to the Vietti tasting. The Mascarello had been tasted out of magnum and I had described it as pungent with a razor-sharp nose and focus and drinking younger than expected. This wine was vibrant in comparison to the 1961 and 1967 Rocches which both were (relatively) lacking in color intensity and varietal integrity. While storage conditions may play a role in the differences, it should also be remembered that the Mascarello is blended while the Rocche is not.


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