Pedro Ballesteros Torres, in a 2/2/18 Decanter article on Spanish wine trends, wrote about newly emergent wine regions which have become so propelled by the aggregated effects of:
I undertook some research to determine why these regions should be considered emergent and summarize my findings herein.
- Developments in viticulture and oenology
- Climate change
- A resurgence of the perennial value of indigenous varieties
- A market eager to reward niche identities.
 |
| Emergent Spanish wine regions |
I undertook some research to determine why these regions should be considered emergent and summarize my findings herein.
Bierzo DO
Bierzo is a small, rural, remote, ancient region sited within the boundaries of the autonomous region of Castillo Y Leon
Why Bierzo DO as an Emergent Region?
One commentator sees the region's mineral-rich slate soil, continental climate, and intrepid winemakers combining to create some "truly memorable" red wines.
According to Michael Schacter, Mencia has been the fire for the fuel that is engulfing Bierzo.
Another commentator: "Bluntly stated, Bierzo is arguably Spain's most exciting wine region, where you can trade in the country's big-bodied, sometimes fiercely tannic Tempranillos and Garnachas for wines with exotic aromas, alluring flavor profiles and undeniable style."
One commentator sees the region's mineral-rich slate soil, continental climate, and intrepid winemakers combining to create some "truly memorable" red wines.
According to Michael Schacter, Mencia has been the fire for the fuel that is engulfing Bierzo.
Another commentator: "Bluntly stated, Bierzo is arguably Spain's most exciting wine region, where you can trade in the country's big-bodied, sometimes fiercely tannic Tempranillos and Garnachas for wines with exotic aromas, alluring flavor profiles and undeniable style."
Galicia
Located in the northwest portion of the Iberian penninsula, Galicia is known for cool, moderate temperatures and green, lush, rolling hills. Its five official DOs (Ribeiro, Ribeira Sacra, Monterrei, Valdeorras, and Rias Baixas) are known for crisp, aromatic white wines from Albarino, Loureiro, Torrontes, Godello, Caiño Blanco, and Treixadura.
Why Galicia as an Emergent Region?
According to Jancis Robinson:
According to Jancis Robinson:
... Galicia has been increasingly valued by Spaniards as their one source of fine, often exotically scented, crisp white wines. The top Galician wines, usually made from the Albariño grape, are some of the most sought after in Spain and have a growing following around the world.In addition:
- The complex, age-worthy wines of Valdeorras made from the formerly ignored indigenous variety Godello has been grabbing attention outside the region and the notice of experts such as Jancis Robinson
- "Ribeiro is building a reputation for fresh, elevated Treixedura-driven wines made from grapes planted on hillside terraces."
- Spanishwinelover.com observes that: "... Ribeira Sacra seems to have ticked off all the boxes to become a top player: breathtaking landscapes with dizzying vineyards; a great array of local grape varieties in the process of being recovered; the complexity derived from the diversity of soils, exposure, and elevations; and a generation of terroir-driven, quality-focused producers determined to leave behind the attitudes and short-sighted views of yesteryear."
Utiel-Requena
Utiel-Requena, named after two neighboring towns, is one of the largest DOs in Valencia. Its 34,000 ha of vines, 6000 wine families, and 100 wineries are distributed among nine towns and are the main economic drivers in the region.
Why Utiel-Requena as an Emergent Region?
There are a number of reasons for the rising stock of the region:
There are a number of reasons for the rising stock of the region:
- A new generation of winemakers
- In the early 2000s, Bobal was known for its "toothsome, juicy rosés." Since then, "serious attention to viticulture and subtle approaches to winemaking and blending to manage tannins has created wines with strong international appeal"(Decanter). "Production is much less aggressive, using macro- and micro-oxygenation, longer maturation periods, larger oak barrels, and a revival of tinajas (traditional clay jars for fermenting and ageing wine)." (imbibe.com)
- "Quality is prioritized over quantity, often employing sustainable, organic, and strictly rainfed viticulture, protrvtion of old vines, better canopy management, and close monitoring of phenolic maturation." (imbibe.com)
- "With the pressure of adapting to climate change, the demand for less interventionist viticulture, and the trend for fresher, crisper wines, Utiel-Requena with Bobal in its armory is guaranteed to keep making history" (Decanter).
- Wineries such as Bodega Mustiguillo, Dominio de la Vega, and Vina Memorias are pursuing the production of high-quality, terroir-driven wines. The co-operative Grupo Coviñas (which represents 3000 farmers covering 41% of DO land) "has become a very modern, quality-driven winery." (imbibe.com).
The Canary Islands
The Canary Islands is a group of islands 60 kilometers off the coast of Morocco (at its closest point) which, together, comprise the southernmost of Spain's autonomous regions. These islands were formed as a result of a mantle plume hotspot acting on the African plate as it wends its way to Morocco. The easternmost island -- Lanzarote -- emerged from the sea 20 million years ago while Hierro, the westernmost, was formed only 1 million years ago.
The Canary Islands is a group of islands 60 kilometers off the coast of Morocco (at its closest point) which, together, comprise the southernmost of Spain's autonomous regions. These islands were formed as a result of a mantle plume hotspot acting on the African plate as it wends its way to Morocco. The easternmost island -- Lanzarote -- emerged from the sea 20 million years ago while Hierro, the westernmost, was formed only 1 million years ago.
Why the Canary Islands as an Emergent Region?
The region is blessed with ungrafted plants and this, combined with the mineral-rich volcanic soil and mountain elevations, lends itself to the production of dry, acid-driven white wines.
The region is blessed with ungrafted plants and this, combined with the mineral-rich volcanic soil and mountain elevations, lends itself to the production of dry, acid-driven white wines.
Aragon
Aragon is a culturally significant autonomous Spanish community, and a DO, which hosts four other DOs within the confines of its border: Somontano to the north and Campo de Borja, Cariñena, and Calatayud to the south. The landscape covered by these DOs range from snow-capped peaks in the north, to parched plains in the south, and green hills in between.
Until the 1990s, large-scale farming and bulk-wine production were the heart of the Avignonese wine industry; a lot more of the wine is bottled today. Garnacha is the main cultivar planted but there is significant representation from Cariñena and Tempranillo.
Why Aragon as an Emergent Region?
According to spanish-living.com:
Aragon has concentrated on improving its wine production techniques, selecting the grape varieties with an eye to quality and streamlining traditional cultivation methods. The progress that has been made is noteworthy, though more pronounced in some regions than in others.
The Balearic Islands
The Balearic Islands, the autonomous division of Spain located off its east coast, are, due to their excellent climate, sandy beaches, and natural beauty, one of Europe's most popular holiday destinations.
The Balearic Islands, the autonomous division of Spain located off its east coast, are, due to their excellent climate, sandy beaches, and natural beauty, one of Europe's most popular holiday destinations.
There are a number of reasons why these islands can be considered as emergent (Cellartours.com):
- International varieties now appear with increasing frequency across the islands' vineyards
- Fresher, more aromatic whites are now the mainstay of production
- A new generation of winemakers are bringing a sense of the importance of terroir to wines and winemaking and are utilizing their best sites to produce wines of class and quality
- The wines have moved beyond the local tourist market and have begun to make waves on the Spanish mainland.
Alicante
Alicante was awarded DO status in 1957. It is divided into two major zones and the area between:
Alicante was awarded DO status in 1957. It is divided into two major zones and the area between:
- La Marina -- the northernmost region, sited in the coastal area between the towns of Denia and Calpe. The climate here is Mediterranean with annual rainfall of 500 mm. The soil is limestone and the vines are dedicated to the Moscatel grape.
- Vinalpo -- the southernmost region. Large, more inland section between the towns of Villena and Pinoso. The climate is continental and dry with rainfall of 300 mm/year. Primarily produces red wines from Monastrell. Iconic red is sweet Fondillon made from overripe grapes in the Rancio style.
- El Comtat -- the area between the two, both in terms of geography and climate. Produces both dry red and sweet white wines.
Why Alicante as an Emergent Region?
Alicante was once known as a region of bulk production and indifferent quality. However, according to Cellar Tours, a new generation of winemakers has come to understand which varieties fit their territories and, as a result, are producing some excellent blends that are more familiar to the world markets. In addition, these producers are also focusing on elegant and fresh reds,
According to BBR, the renovation of the infrastructure and vineyards in the region have helped rehabilitate Monastrell's reputation as it now produces "fleshy, concentrated, complex wines with intense violet and redcurrant notes."
Alicante was once known as a region of bulk production and indifferent quality. However, according to Cellar Tours, a new generation of winemakers has come to understand which varieties fit their territories and, as a result, are producing some excellent blends that are more familiar to the world markets. In addition, these producers are also focusing on elegant and fresh reds,
According to BBR, the renovation of the infrastructure and vineyards in the region have helped rehabilitate Monastrell's reputation as it now produces "fleshy, concentrated, complex wines with intense violet and redcurrant notes."
Empordà
La Costa Brava, the coastline that runs along Spain's northeastern shore, is best known for its beaches and resorts and less so for the DO Empordà that lies just inland of it. This lack of identity was so palpable that the DO appended the coastline's name to its own in order to elevate its visibility. The name is thus, officially, Empordà-Costa Brava.
La Costa Brava, the coastline that runs along Spain's northeastern shore, is best known for its beaches and resorts and less so for the DO Empordà that lies just inland of it. This lack of identity was so palpable that the DO appended the coastline's name to its own in order to elevate its visibility. The name is thus, officially, Empordà-Costa Brava.
Why Empordà as an Emerging Region?
According to Decanter:
According to Decanter:
A bunch of young, highly motivated winemakers, fresh from their oenology studies, are busy remaking the ancient terraces and dry stone walls, resurrecting old vines -- principally Garnatxa and Carinyena -- and planting new ones. Their wines have bags of character and a strong sense of place, marked by the Mediterranean and given a good dose of tough love by the Tramontana winds that blast across the mountains from the north stressing and airing the vines in equal measure."According to Laura Masramon (lauramasramon.com):
In the 1990s, a group of young wine experts … returned to the farms. Their grandfathers had preserved very old vines, some of which are over a hundred years old. The new generation used these vines and their expertise to create unique, authentic, wine … the young enologists seek to revive the regional varieties to the point of mastering them and understanding them in depth. Thus they obtain wines that express the terroir of the Empordà. They are modern wines but at the same time speak to us of those 2700 years of history.
Jumilla
Jumilla is a 19,000 ha DO in Murcia, a small region on the coast of southeast Spain. Its specialty is wines made from the Monastrell variety (80% of the region's plantings).
Jumilla is a 19,000 ha DO in Murcia, a small region on the coast of southeast Spain. Its specialty is wines made from the Monastrell variety (80% of the region's plantings).
Why Jumilla as an Emergent Region?
Jumilla has re-invented itself as a producer of modern, fruity red, white, and Rosé wines. Improved vineyard management, and outside investment in new equipment from industry heavyweights in other Spanish regions, have led to a remarkable increase in wine quality. The result is a new generation of "characterful" wines, some organic, and the majority red, in which the rediscovered Monastrell grape is showing promising results in the hands of skilled winemakers.
Jumilla has re-invented itself as a producer of modern, fruity red, white, and Rosé wines. Improved vineyard management, and outside investment in new equipment from industry heavyweights in other Spanish regions, have led to a remarkable increase in wine quality. The result is a new generation of "characterful" wines, some organic, and the majority red, in which the rediscovered Monastrell grape is showing promising results in the hands of skilled winemakers.
Sierra de Gredos
Sierra de Gredos is a mountainous wine growing region. located about 100 km west of Madrid, which has been gaining attention due to old Garnacha vines planted at elevations ranging between 600 and 1200m.
Why Sierra de Gredos as an emergent region?
Natasha Hughes MW, sees many of Spain's younger winemakers turning "... to the creation of fresher, more aromatic wines that are designed to reveal their terroir rather than their cooperage" and "one of the areas spearheading the insurrection is the Sierra de Gredos" where "a treasure trove of old vines" are being adapted "to the production of complex, refined wines."
In addition (Jancis Robinson):
- The region is proximate to Madrid
- There is a flowering of newcomer producers in a region that had heretofore been dominated by Cooperatives
- High quality juice is produced from the older vines
- The stylistic profile of the delicate Garnachas produced in the region is attractive to discerning consumers.
Penedès DO
Penedès DO straddles both the Barcelona and Tarragona provinces.
Why Penedès as an Emergent Wine Region?
The region is at the forefront of moving vineyards to organic and biodynamic farming. Beyond that it is not clear why Torres positioned it as an emergent region. Cava has been made there for a while as, have solid white wines. Red wines are ascendant but they are not readily available outside the region. Penedès DO is engaged in the battle for Cava supremacy but that is a battle to carve up an existing cake and I see nothing therein which is "emergent" level.
The region is at the forefront of moving vineyards to organic and biodynamic farming. Beyond that it is not clear why Torres positioned it as an emergent region. Cava has been made there for a while as, have solid white wines. Red wines are ascendant but they are not readily available outside the region. Penedès DO is engaged in the battle for Cava supremacy but that is a battle to carve up an existing cake and I see nothing therein which is "emergent" level.
No comments:
Post a Comment