Orlando hometown favorite Victoria and Albert's reaps award as second-best fine dining restaurant in US

TripAdvisor annually awards best restaurant designations in US and worldwide categories based on reviews by individuals who have eaten at the establishments. This year's awardees were recently announced and hometown favorite Victoria and Albert's was ranked second best restaurant in the US fine-dining category. This is a well-deserved recognition for Chef Scott Hunnel and his crew and a feather in the cap for the Orlando food and wine scene.

Victoria and Albert's is a modern-American-cuisine-themed restaurant at Disney's Grand Floridian Resort and Spa.  The restaurant has impressive credentials: a recipient of the AAA Five Diamond Award, a Four Star rating from Forbes Travel Guide, and Scott Hunnel as Chef de Cuisine.  Chef Hunnel, a champion of fresh, locally produced, seasonal ingredients, is a 5-time James Beard "Best Chef of the South" nominee and was named Santé magazine's Culinary Professional of the Year in 2008.

Victoria & Albert's continues to roll along as a bastion of high-end fine dining even in the face of declining support for this style among area restaurants and patrons. The Chef (Scott Hunnel) is one of the most respected in Orlando and a seat at his table is second in desirability only to season tickets at Lambeau Field. 

The V & A kitchen

Chef Scott Hunnel at one of our many trips to his Chef's Table

Back in the good old days, Florida residents could book the Chef's Table at Victoria and Albert's for dinner and, over the years, we have used this privilege to good advantage. Disney has recently modified the Chef's Table requirements, however, restricting reservations to individuals actually staying at the Grand Floridian Resort. This is a bummer for locals as the environment, staff, food, and service are all impeccable and we loved holding special tasting events at the locale.

The Queen Victoria Room -- an enclosed 8-seater off the main dining room which serves the same menu as at the Chef's Table -- is still available for booking by locals. It is adjoining, and to the left of, the main dining room but it is a world removed. It also stands in stark contrast to the the Chef's Table: tasteful period decoration, quiet, privacy, enclosed, deficit of pots and pans hanging from the ceiling, no sous-chef testosterone on display.

Traditional setup for Queen Victoria Room
(Source: victoria-alberts.com)

Setup of the room for our event

Below is a recounting of one of our Chef's Table outings:

Amuse-Bouche: Soft-poached Quail Egg with Galilee Caviar; Chicken Liver Terrine; Cauliflower Panna Cotta; Porcini Miushroom Cappuccino

Maine Lobster with Herb Aioli and Miniature Greens

Alaskan Salmon with Bamboo Rice and Soy Beans

Herb-Crusted Ocala Rabbit and Sausage with Carrots

Poulet Rouge with Calamarata Pasta, Forest Mushrooms and Black truffles

Minnesota Elk Tenderloin with Braised Red Cabbage Tart

Australian Kobe-style Beef with Garlic Potato Puree

Fiscalini Cheddar, Gouda Reypenaer XO, Colston Bassett Stilton, Parmigiano Reggiano

Blood Orange Timbale with Array of Fruits on a Raspberry Veil






At the time I described the meal thusly: "This was an excellent night out.  Watching course after course prepared in front of our eyes and then delivered to our table with pomp and circumstance enough to make a Victorian historian proud, and then to caress our palates with a multiplicity of pleasing flavors, was a food-lover's dream.  The eye-pleasing symmetry of presentation was only outdone by the symmetry of the flavors on the palate."

Chef Hunnel with author's wife

And Chef Hunnel does not only restrict his activities to the ivory tower of the V & A environment. He gets out into the community to work with other chefs and to mentor the chefs of tomorrow. As a part of a number of Chefs working a James Beard Nominees Charity Dinner at Cress a few years ago, Chef Hunnel talked about these chefs being at the vanguard of a food and dining movement in Orlando which is aimed at providing residents and guests with an attractive culinary scene.

The staff at the restaurant is exemplary. Here is how I described our experience at one of our seatings in the Queen Victoria Room.

Our experience throughout the evening was wonderful. I have already described how pleasing the environment was and I would be remiss if I did not give a shoutout to the service staff. We had a husband and wife team rotating as the shot callers from course to course and they had a trying job. Not only did they have to announce the general course highlights, they also had to go to each seat with a dietary restriction and explain the contents of that plate. They did a really good job and contributed mightily to the success of the evening. The courses were brought in by uniformed waiters bearing covered plates on white chargers (not the horses). The covers were then removed in a choreographed fashion once all of the chargers had been placed on the table in front of the owning patron. No mistakes here.

The man, the cuisine, the team: the contributing factors to a deserved award.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Victoria and Albert's Queen Victoria Room: Chef's Table experience sans Chef

Back in the good old days, Florida residents could book the Chef's Table at Victoria and Albert's for dinner and, over the years, we have used this privilege to good advantage. Disney has recently modified the Chef's Table requirements, restricting reservations to individuals actually staying at the Grand Floridian Resort. This is a bummer as the environment, staff, food, and service are all impeccable and we loved holding special tasting events at the locale.

Recently it was brought to Ron's attention that the Queen Victoria Room -- an enclosed 8-seater off the main dining room which serves the same menu as at the Chef's Table -- was still available for booking by locals so he set up a dinner and tasting in order to check out its viability as a rotational site for our tasting events. The tasting diner was scheduled, and held, on July 18th and is the subject of this post.

The night had no specific theme -- just bring (good) wine and they would be flighted on location. We were the first to arrive and were welcomed warmly by Israel (the Maître d'Hôtel) and his reception staff. We opted to wait in the reception area until the others arrived so that we would all experience the new locale simultaneously. When Ron, Bev, and Linda arrived, we were ushered into the room.

It is adjoining and to the left of the main dining room but it is a world removed. It stands in stark contrast to the the Chef's Table: Tasteful period decoration, quiet, privacy, enclosed, deficit of pots and pans hanging from the ceiling, no sous-chef testosterone on display. I was liking this place already. The table setup and the presentation of our wines further added to the allure.

Traditional setup for Queen Victoria Room
(Source: victoria-alberts.com)

Setup of the room for our event

Ron ordered a bottle of Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blanc off the list while we wrestled with Israel about the wines that we had brought. His preference is to display/decant all of the wines up front while we are a little more cautious, especially as it relates to older Burgundies. Two of the wines that I had brought -- 2005 Masseto and 2006 Méo-Camuzet -- probably required decanting but we wanted to revisit that at a later time. Ron described the Champagne thusly: Toasty brioche; citrus with a touch of green apple; very refreshing.

At this time Israel stepped to the front of the room to officially welcome us and to introduce the menu. We would be having the same fare as the patrons who were currently at the Chef's Table but he understood all of the dietary restrictions in the room and those would be accommodated in the plates served. A total of 10 courses would be served. The Champagne was paired with the amuse-buche shown below, itself a study in contrasting flavors and textures.

Maine Lobster "jar" with Siberian Osetra Caviar

Upon completion of Israel's intro, we eased into a white Burgundy flight comprised of a 2007 Remoissenet Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatierres and a 1997 Remoissenet Montrachet. They both were gold in color with the Montrachet being just a little darker. The Montrachet exhibited a waxiness on the nose, a slight hint of tropical fruits, and tangerine. Andrew identified a creme brulée character. On the palate a dried-tangerine character with the waxiness on the nose manifesting as an oily texture. Long finish. The Puligny-Montrachet had notes of lime, sage, pepper, and a trace of phenolics. Lean and sharp on the palate with a long, balanced finish. The Montrachet was clearly the class of this pair. This flight was paired with the beautifully constructed Jumbo lump crab shown below.

Jumbo Lump Crab with Cucumber Gelée

We followed up the white Burgs with a red Burgundy flight: 1971 Remoissenet Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, 1966 Leroy Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, and 1983 DRC Richebourg. The Bonnes-Mares and Richebourg were disappointing and, thus, made the Leroy shine even brighter in comparison. The Leroy exhibited aromas of a musty closet, earth, and ripe red fruit. Great acidity on the palate along with a spiciness and a long dried-herb finish. Balanced. The Bonnes-Mares was pruney, piney, and resinous with balsamic and amarone tones. VA on the palate with a short finish. Unpleasing. The Richebourg was musty and moldy with notes of preserved dried cherries and orange rind. Disappointing on the palate. Disaggregated and lacking acidity. The lamb, which was paired with these wines, had a smoky, salty, herbaceous character which worked well with the wine that worked. The Leroy was the WOTF.

Hot "Smoked" Niman Ranch Lamb with Fuji Apple and
Curry Dressing

The Bordeaux flight consisted of that Old Faithful -- 1966 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion -- plus a 1966 Talbot and a 1986 Comtesse de Lalande. Thanks to Ron's never-ending supply of '66 La Mish, we have drunk this wine on many an occasion and we are never disappointed. This wine generally presents dill, smoke, tar, black olives, and perfect balance. Tonight was no exception. The Talbot showed blood, iron, spice, mint, anise, and baking spices on the nose. I felt a misalignment between nose and palate. Ron characterized it as "very rustic." I tagged the Pichon as having bell pepper notes along with brown shoe polish, cinnamon, clove, and beer. I found it to be tight, tannic, and linear. The fruit is not there currently and it is an open question as to whether it will outlive the tannins. Definitely does not compare well with the other wines in the group. La Mish as WOTF.

Fennel Crusted Diver Scallop in a Salt Bowl

One of the wines we were looking forward to with great anticipation was the 2006 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Premier Cru Cros Parantoux; and this wine delivered. It was the subject of a post all its own.

Poached Chicken Egg with Corn Foam

Ron's notes on the 1995 Chateau Rayas which followed indicate cherry, raspberry, and garrigue characteristics. In his estimation it is "Grand-Cru-Burgundy-like" and no other CdP "is in the same league."

Marcho Farms Veal with Peas, Carrots, and Morels

The next flight was a very uncharacteristic grouping of two of our very favorite wines. We have had these wines where the Vega Sicilia was paired with other Spanish wines and where the Masseto was either grouped with other Super Tuscans or with other Merlots. Vega-Sicilia is arguably the greatest wine from Spain while Masseto is one of the great Super Tuscans, the best Italian Merlot, and one of the finest Merlots in the world. They were flighted together because of a perception of an underlying "Pomerolian" nature to both. According to Ron, the 1970 Vega-Sicilia Unico exhibited dried red fruits, licorice, graphite, earth, and spice box. Very focused with polished tannins. Elegant and silky. Balanced. First-growth-like. The 2005 Ornellaia Masseto was very rich and very young with plentiful chocolate on the nose and palate. Pomerol-like. Excellent length on the finish. Needs another ten years to fully realize its potential. Drinking now but patience will produce even greater rewards. These wines were paired with an Australian Kobe-Style Beef with Potato Sphere.

The final bottle opened was a 1998 Guigal Ampuis Cote Rotie. Ron pegged its aromas as smoked meat, black olives, coffee, and spice box and expressed a fondness for the wine.

Selection of Cheese from Trolley

Peach Quark Panna Cotta

Peruvian Chocolate Timbale with Roasted
White Chocolate Gelato

Our experience throughout the evening was wonderful. I have already described how pleasing the environment was and I would be remiss if I did not give a shoutout to the service staff. We had a husband and wife team rotating as the shot callers from course to course and they had a trying job. Not only did they have to announce the general course highlights, they also had to go to each seat with a dietary restriction and explain the contents of that plate. They did a really good job and contributed mightily to the success of the evening. The courses were brought in by uniformed waiters bearing covered plates on white chargers (not the horses). The covers were then removed in a choreographed fashion once all of the chargers had been placed on the table in front of the owning patron. No mistakes here.

At the end of the evening Chef Hunnel came over to our room to chat us up. He missed us. He looked lost.

Sorry Chef, but you know the rules.


©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Cress Restaurant (Deland, FL) Charity Dinner: The Back Story

In a stunning coup for the benefitting charities, the city of Deland, and Cress Restaurant, Executive Chef Hari Pulapaka of Cress has gained the commitment of four of Orlando's leading chefs to prepare dishes for a charity dinner to be held at Cress Restaurant on August 29th.  The participating chefs are: Scott Hunnell, Chef de Cuisine, Victoria and Albert's, Disney's Grand Floridian Resort and Spa; James and Julie Petrakas, Chef/Owners, The Ravenous Pig, Kevin Fonzo, Chef and Owner, K Restaurant and Wine Bar; and, of course, Hari Pulapaka, Executive Chef and Co-Owner (along with wife Jenneffer) , Cress Restaurant.  All proceeds from the event will benefit Taste of the Nation - Orlando, the Coalition for the Homeless of Central Florida, and Central Florida Second Harvest Food Bank.  Having eaten at all of these restaurants, and considering the chefs among the best in Orlando, I perceive this to be a huge deal.  Wanting to get a better understanding of the genesis and objectives of the event, I interviewed Chef Hari on August 6th.  First, a little background on Chef Hari and Cress Restaurant.

Scott Hunnell, Chef de Cuisine, V&A

James and Julie Petrakas, Ravenous Pig

Kevin Fonzo, K Restaurant

Chef Hari Pulupaka, Cress Restaurant

Hari Pulapaka was born in present-day Mumbai and, after graduating from the University of Mumbai, came to the US to pursue graduate studies in Mathematics.  Hari was very successful in this pursuit with a Masters degree awarded by George Mason University in 1989 and a Doctorate by the University of Florida in 1995.  After teaching stints at Bethune-Cookman, Valdosta State University, and Gorgia Tech, Dr. Pulapaka arrived at Stetson University in Deland in 2000 and remains there to this day as a tenured Associate Professor in that institution's Mathematics department.

While teaching at Stetson, Dr. Pulapaka was afflicted with a self-described "midlife crisis" the upshot of which was attendance at Orlando Culinary Institute and, post-graduation, a Culinary Internship at Canoe (a high-end restaurant in Toronto, Canada) and a job as a Line Cook at Princess Cruise's Wilderness Lodge in Alaska.

According to Chef Hari, his stint at Canoe taught him about finesse and pizazz while his sojourn at the lodge taught him boldness in cuisine.  When the opportunity arose, he combined those characteristics with his affinity for spices into the locally grown, globally inspired entity that is Cress Restaurant.  The goal of the restaurant is to provide a charming atmosphere with great value for the customer using an upscale, refined approach within the context of the location.  The mission of the venture is to be responsible to the community and its needs and the sources of the products that make their way onto the Cress tables.  It was this understanding of the needs of the community, combined with Chef Hari's passion for philanthropy, that were the sources of inspiration for the upcoming event.

Cress Restaurant was going to be three-years-old on August 29th.  The restaurant had celebrated previous anniversaries with customer-appreciation events but Chef Hari wanted to do something larger and more meaningful for the third anniversary.  Chef Hari had been named a 2011 James Beard Nominee for Best Chef South, as had the chefs who will be cooking at the event.  Chef Hari felt that if he could get his fellow nominees to come to Deland and cook at his restaurant, it could be huge money-raiser for a worthy charity and fulfill his goal of doing something "larger and more meaningful" for Cress' third anniversary.  Once he got this idea in his head, he pursued it doggedly and, after a two-month effort, was successful in gaining their agreement to participate.  This was a tall order because: these are very important chefs in Orlando; they are very busy all of the time; they would be donating their time; and, finally, getting the calendars synchronized would require a herculean effort.  But he pulled it off.

The event will revolve around a 7-course meal, each course being paired with an appropriate wine.  Each chef decided what he/she was going to prepare and Chef Hari (i) placed them in the appropriate order and (ii) filled in perceived blanks with his courses.  Cress can seat 35 people and to date 28 attendees have been confirmed.  Ticket prices are $275 per attendee but the funds go to a good cause and it provides the attendee with an opportunity to taste all five of these high-end chefs in one place and at one time.

The critical succes factors of the event, as seen by Chef Hari, are: (i) that the event raises money (a foregone conclusion given the number of seats sold to date); (ii) flawless execution of the dishes; (iii) the attendees perceive an authentic experience; and (iv) the chefs feel, at the end of the day, that it was worth their time.  There are a number of challenges that will have to be overcome.  The Cress kitchen is small and hot, not the kind of environment these chefs are accustomed to working in.  He hopes that the feeling of being able to do what they want to do will far outweigh the frustration of working in cramped, hot surroundings.

In Chef's estimation, Deland, as a city, is happy and proud to be the venue for such a monumental meeting of culinary artists.  He is also proud of putting the event together and sees it as an opportunity for the Orlando culinary glitterati to taste some of his creations and provide  a "seal of approval."

There is no doubt that this event will be a feather in the cap for Cress Restaurant.  It will raise a lot of money for charity but, following closely on the heels of the James Beard nomination, this gathering of stars on the banks of the Deland River (well, not quite) serves to further cement Cress Restaurant as one of the "foodie-destination" restaurants in metro-Orlando.