Wednesday, March 24, 2021

"Emergent" Spanish wine regions: The Canary Islands

The Canary Islands is a group of islands 60 kilometers off the coast of Morocco (at its closest point) which, together, comprise the southernmost of Spain's autonomous regions. These islands were formed as a result of a mantle plume hotspot acting on the African plate as it wends its way to Morocco. The easternmost island -- Lanzarote -- emerged from the sea 20 million years ago while Hierro, the westernmost, was formed only 1 million years ago.

Source: seriouseats.com
The islands are characterized by rugged terrain, a hot and humid climate, potential volcanic activity, and extreme winds. It is one of the most extreme winemaking regions in all of Spain. The image below shows the stone walls which have been erected to guard vines against those extreme winds.

Rock walls protecting the vines from the hot African winds
(Source: cellartours.com)

Counterbalancing those challenges, however, are the abundance of rich volcanic soil and extremely old vines. The Phylloxera louse that ravaged European vineyards never reached the islands so many of the vines there are one hundred years+ old.

Six of the seven islands have been awarded DOs, with Fuerteventura the exception. With the exception of Tenerife, which has five DO zones, the DO in each case is island-wide.

Fully 40% of the agricultural land in the islands is taken up with viticulture and white grapes are the majority. White grapes include Malvasia, Listan Blanco, Gual, Verdello, Forastera, and Albillo, among others. The red grapes are Listan Negro, Negramoll, Tintilla, and Baboso.

Tenerife
Tenerife is the largest island in the Canary Island archipelago. It is dominated by El Teide, at 3,718 m (12,200 feet), the tallest mountain in Spain.

Tenerife's climate is tropical but is moderated by the mountain and the moisture-laden clouds brought to the area by the trade winds. These clouds are blocked by the mountain, depositing the moisture on its northern face and foothills. Temperatures are mild in the north while the south registers little or no rain and intense heat.

Soils are volcanic, with ash and volcanic rock, and a wealth of organic matter, in the north while the south features jable (a white volcanic ash) and clay sandy soils with good water-holding capacity.

Why the Canary Islands as an Emergent Region?
The region is blessed with ungrafted plants and this, combined with the mineral-rich volcanic soil and mountain elevations, lends itself to the production of dry, acid-driven white wines.

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The regions identified as emergent by Torres in his initial article are:

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

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