Friday, April 24, 2020

Emergent Spanish wine regions: Bierzo

Pedro Ballesteros Torres, in a 2/2/18 Decanter article on Spanish wine trends, wrote about newly emergent wine regions which have become so propelled by the aggregated effects of:
  • Developments in viticulture and oenology
  • Climate change
  • A resurgence of the perennial value of indigenous varieties
  • A market eager to reward niche identities.
I am in the process of providing brief overviews of each of the identified regions, including the reasons why they are considered emergent. I cover Bierzo herein.

Bierzo is a small, rural, remote, ancient region sited within the boundaries of the autonomous region of Castillo Y Leon (it is shown in the northeastern portion of the map of the autonomous region below).



The region (awarded DO status in 1989) has surged in popularity after Alvaro Palacios (of Priorat fame) established vineyards there with his nephew Ricardo Pérez. It is divided into two terroirs: Bierzo Alta, a mineral-rich, mountainous terrain with terraced vineyards; and Bierzo Bajo, a "wide and verdant plain."

Bierzo's climate is continental but much cooler than Castillo Y Leon inland areas due to its relative proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. The Cordillera Cantábria to the north protects  the vineyard from north winds while the Sierra de los Ancares to the northwest calms the force of Atlantic storms.

Average rainfall is 720 mm/year.

The soil is predominantly slate and granite on the higher slopes with alluvial soils of quartz and clay in the lower reaches.

Mencia is the undisputed star variety of Bierzo. This recently prominent red grape accounts for 2/3rds of the region's planted vines. The slate and granite soils allows the Mencia grape to produce riper wines with greater mineral character and less alcohol than any other region in Castilllo Y Leon. According to Michael Schacter (Wine Enthusiast's Editor of Spanish and South American Wines), "when vinified properly, it delivers wines with purity of fruit, superb structure, fine balance, versatility at the table and good to excellent value." Premium examples of the wine are "typically characterized by intense yet smooth flavor, often including floral and spicy notes."

The other red variety of note in the region is Garnacha while the whites are Doña Blanca, Godello, Palomino, and Malvasia.

The wines of the region are shown in the table below.

Table 1. Selected Wine Types and Styles in Bierzo DO
Type
Style
Variet(ies)y
Requirements
White

Godello and Doña Blanca complemented by Palomino and Malvasia in different percentages


Gran Reserva

> 6 months in oak; > 18 months in bottle
Rose

Mencia (50%) and mixing red or white grapes


Gran Reserva

> 6 months in oak; > 18 months in bottle
Red
No oak
> 70% Mencia
First or second year wine

Crianza

> 2 years aging; > 6 months in oak barrel of < 300 L

Reserva

> 3 years aging; > 12 months in oak barrel of < 300 L

Gran Reserva

> 5 years aging; > 18 months in oak barrel of < 300 L; remaining period in bottle

Why Bierzo as an Emergent Region?
One commentator sees the region's mineral-rich slate soil, continental climate, and intrepid winemakers combining to create some "truly memorable" red wines.

According to Michael Schacter, Mencia has been the fire for the fuel that is engulfing Bierzo.

Another commentator: "Bluntly stated, Bierzo is arguably Spain's most exciting wine region, where you can trade in the country's big-bodied, sometimes fiercely tannic Tempranillos and Garnachas for wines with exotic aromas, alluring flavor profiles and undeniable style."

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The regions identified as emergent by Torres in his initial article are:

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

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