Sangiovese: the variety at Italy's core

As I work my way through the sparkling wines of Italy, I have been diverted from time to time by the urge to dig deep into the details of significant varieties on the Italian wine landscape. Such was the case for Grechetto and Grechetto Gentile; and such is the case for Sangiovese.

Sangiovese is the most widely planted of the Italian varieties (63,000 ha; 10% of all plantings) and is the basis for some of the most important wines in Central Italy. The grape, the name of which translates to "Blood of Jove," is small-to-medium in size, round-to-oval in shape, and grows in tight clusters with wings at the shoulders. The skin is thin, with a deep-blue to dark-purple color. The flesh is translucent, seeded, and endowed with high acidity and medium-to-strong tannins.

In addition to the name Sangiovese, the variety has been referenced variously as: Sangiovese grosso, Sangiovese piccolo, Sangioveto, Sangiogheto, San Gioveto, San Zoveto, Prugnolo, Morellino, Brunello, and Nielluccio.

Research has shown it to be the offspring of Calabrese Contenuova and Ciliegiolo but this finding has been disputed by subsequent, competing research results.

Clones
It was previously thought that the grape had three manifestations -- Sangioveto in Chianti, Prugnolo Gentile in Montepulciano, and Brunello (Sangiovese Grosso) in Montalcino -- but clonal research initiated in 1980 (representatives from Banfi, the Chianti Classico Consortium, and the Universities of Florence, Perugia, and Milan) showed that:

1. Sangiovese is a family of highly adaptive grapes
2. There are two biotypes: Tuscan (57 clones) and Romagnon (13 clones).

In further work, Banfi has identified 650 clones in the Montalcino zone and has studied and registered 15 of them. The Banfi study has assessed a number of characteristics (berry size and weight, sugar accumulation, color capability, and tannin polymerization capability) and found significant variation from clone to clone. The team also found that Sangiovese is, moreso than other grape varieties, adaptable to different growing environments.

A total of 70,948 ha of Sangiovese is planted worldwide, with 63,000 ha of that total located within the borders of Italy. Argentina (2804 ha), Romania (1700 ha), Corsica (1633 ha), California (1371 ha) and Australia (440 ha) are the other "significant" players on the field. Within Italy, plantings are concentrated within the Central provinces but are also to be found in Lombardia, Emilia Romagna, Valpolicella, Campania, and Sicily.

Wine Characteristics
Jancis Robinson sees Sangiovese wines ranging along a spectrum which includes mulberries, prunes, spice, tobacco and (sometimes) leather and chestnut. "It tends to be savoury rather than sweet and, if not fully ripe, can smell distinctly farmyard-like."

Ian D'Agata, of Vinous, sees "violet aromas and black tea leaf on the nose and a red fruit profile (red currants and strawberries in cooler areas, red cherries in warmer areas) on the palate  with leather and underbrush notes appearing as the wine ages."

According to Vine Pair, the traditional characteristics of Sangiovese are as follows:

• Ripe and tart red fruit (particular sour cherry)
• Savory herbs (fennel, rosemary, thyme)
• Non-fruit notes to include tomato, iron and balsamic
• Minerality (clay, dark rock)
• Medium- to full-bodied
• High acid
• High tannin.

As has been pointed out previously, however, the Sangiovese character is strongly influenced by the soil in which it is planted. The variety clearly has an affinity for Tuscany, attributable, it has been said, to the limestone levels in the region. There are higher levels of limestone in the soils of Montalcino and Chianti Classico than in the more clay-based soils of Chianti; the difference in wine quality is illustrative. The chart below shows the variety's character as represented in some of its most famous wines in its most famous region.

In addition to Toscana, Sangiovese can be found in:

• Emilia-Romagna -- Sangiovese di Romagna is the most important Sangiovese zone outside Tuscany. The wine has to be a minimum 95% Sangiovese and expressions range from full-bodied and tannic to lighter, fruitier options, based on location
• Umbria -- The grape is used in the Montefalco Rosso DOC (60 - 80%); Torgiano Rosato and Rosso DOC (> 50%); and Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG (> 70%)
• Marche -- Some pure expressions but primarily used as a blending agent (up to 15%) with the Montepulciano grape in Rosso Conero
• Lazio -- Important red wine grape in this province.

Sangiovese has aging potential but the vast majority of its wines are consumable in the earlier parts of their lives. Brunello is an exception in that it requires 5 - 10 years to be optimal. Most other Sangiovese wines are ready at around 5 years and peak at around 10.

Winemaking
Sangiovese's high acidity, light color (due to a lack of acylated anthocyanins), and light body can be problematic for winemakers. They have, however, devised a number of methods to add body and texture to wines made from the variety.

Varietal Blending
Winemakers have historically blended Sangiovese wines with other varietals in order to complement its attractive qualities and fill in some of the gaps. These historical blending partners include Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Mammolo, Colorino, and white grapes Trebbiano and Malvasia.

Since the late 20th-century, it has become fashionable to blend Sangiovese with Bordeaux varietals, especially Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Cabernet Sauvignon adds "rich saturation and structure" while Merlot adds lushness and softness. Chianti limits Cabernet Sauvignon to 15% of the blend.

Clonal Blending
Growers are utilizing  the newly commercialized clones that have emerged from research to affect the character of their wines. Banfi has taken the lead in clone blending, choosing 15 of them as being best-suited to its microclimate and preferred style of Brunello. One of these clones provides more violet aromas, another provides greater acidity, while a third provides deeper color.

Other Tactics
A number of other tactics have been deployed:

• Utilization of grapes from extremely low-yielding vines
• Adjusting fermentation temperature and length
• Extending maceration from a period of 7 - 12 days to a period ranging between 3 and 4 weeks
• Use of new French oak for aging rather than the traditional large, used oak botti
• Transferring the wine to new French oak barrels for malolactic fermentation results in higher levels of tannin polymerization and a rounder, softer mouthfeel
• Wine flavor is enhanced due to Sangiovese's sponge-like acquisition of sweet vanilla and other oak components from the barrels.

Sangiovese and Food
According to Food and Wine, "Pair Sangiovese with rare steaks, roasted game birds (or wild boar), rich chicken or mushroom dishes or anything with tomato sauce. On her Il Palazzone blog, Laura Gray, the Estate Manager, shared a wonderful recipe for Onion and Paprika Beef Spezzatino to accompany the estate's 2013 Brunello. It looks fantastic.

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I took a detour from sparkling wines and happened upon the "Blood of Jove."

©Wine -- Mise en abyme