I was unfamiliar with Domaine Porto Carras prior to my visit there as a member of a group sponsored by The Wines of North Greece. That shortcoming was quickly addressed by the quality of the people, facilities, and the Chateau Porto Carras wine. I became a big fan.
Domaine Porto Carras is located on the western side of the middle finger (Sithonia Municipality) of peninsular Halkidiki which is, itself, a part of Greek Macedonia. The maps below show the placement of Domaine Porto Carras within the broader geographical context.
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| Macedonia Region within Greece (inset) and Halkidiki within Macedonia. Source: askelena.com |
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| Domaine Porto Carras location in Sithonia on the Halkidiki Peninsula |
The top level wines in the Greek appellation system are wines designated PDO and the Porto Carras vineyards on the slopes of Mt. Meliton constitute a single-domaine PDO called Slopes of Meliton. The characteristics of that PDO are displayed in the figure below. The Domaine also makes wines that are classed as PGI Sithonia, an appellation which encompasses grapes grown anywhere on the Sithonia peninsula, and PGI Halkidiki which encompasses grapes grown anywhere in that geographic area.
At 4500 acres Domaine Porto Carras is the largest organic vineyard in Greece.
Originally purchased by Mr Carras in 1963, 27 ha were eventually planted to vine in 1967 after careful planning and testing of vineyard sites by professors from Thessaloniki School of Agronomy and Athens Vine and Wine Institute. The post-experimentation design had white varieties planted close to the sea while red varieties were planted at higher elevations. The famed Bordeaux Oenologist Emile Peynaud collaborated with the estate from 1970 to 1975.
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| Stergios with Robin Gheesling (right) and Olga Mosina |
After our tour of the Slopes of Meliton we got back into the transporter and made our way to the Limnio Vineyard. The vineyard is separated into two 5-ha plots and the grapes are used both for a standalone varietal and as a component in a Bordeaux-style blend. The characteristics of this ancient variety are explored here.
After a brief tour of the winery led by Oenologist Eyfrossyni Drossou, we returned to Melissanthi Hall to taste the wines of the Domaine.
After a brief tour of the winery led by Oenologist Eyfrossyni Drossou, we returned to Melissanthi Hall to taste the wines of the Domaine.
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| Stainless steel tanks (Courtesy Domaine Porto Carras) |
Of the white wines tasted, I was pleasantly surprised by the Assyrtiko. Of the reds, while the Magnus Baccata merits attention, it was the Chateau Porto Carras Bordeaux blends that blew me away with spice, tobacco, cedar, dark chocolate, and vanilla notes accompanying a red-fruit character, velvety feel, and lengthy finish. The 1993 was just an evolved version of the 2006. This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Limnio and is aged in French oak for 24 months and then for an additional year in bottle.
After the tour and tasting we travelled to the Porto Carras Grand Resort and had dinner at one of the restaurants.
Orlando Tasting
I was so impressed with this wine that I had two cases of older vintages shipped back to the US so that I could hold a tasting with a group of friends. The panelists pulled together for the event were as follows:
- John Siudut, Proprietor, Vintage Vino
- Andres Montoya, (then) Proprietor, The Wine Barn
- Jill Kathyrn Davis, Former Head Sommelier Capa Grill at the Four Seasons and Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse
- Ron Siegel, Collector
- Juan Valencia, former Assistant General Manager and Sommelier at the former Norman's at the Ritz Grande Lakes.
Flight 1:
2006 - Juan saw this as young and fresh. It exhibited an explosion of red fruit flavor with a slight barnyard funk. Taut; and destined for greatness. Andres described this wine as exhibiting petrol, smoke, and cherry and a nice finish. It reminded him of a Sangiovese-based Tuscan blend. For John, "one cannot forget the 2006 magnum which I thought was the best right out of the gate but as the other wines settled in the glass it got slightly outpaced."
1990 - For Juan, this wine was muted and starting to fade. He thought it "might be past the zenith of opportunity in its lifespan." Andres had similar sentiments: "Mint and eucalyptus with little fruit left on the nose or in mouth. Over the hill."
1993 - Ron saw this wine as very Bordeaux-like, displaying beautiful red berry fruits with floral notes and baking spices. Elegant and balanced on the finish with good structure. Juan saw tar, canned vegetables, smoke, and compost, all with a dash of Brett. A hermit of a wine, he said, with stories to tell. Andres: "My #1 wine of the tasting. Glorious nose of black currant, baking spice, black tea, anise, and peanut oil. Excellent mouthfeel, high acid. Very left-bank Bordeaux-like. Reminded me of a Pichon-Lalande on the nose and the finish." For John, this wine exhibited bold fruit and incredible length.
1989- Muted on the nose, wet earth and moss on the palate. Very little character (Juan). Andres agreed: "Faint smell of black tea and leather. Short finish. Over the hill."
Flight 2:
1995 - For Juan this was "... delicious. So alive in every way; fruit, acid, tannin, everything. All the greatness of Bordeaux with a very original personality. My winner of the flight."
Andres was on another continent: "Green bean, eucalyptus, and 'stemmy' aromatics. Smells underripe. Short finish."
2001 - Juan: "Wow. A little wilder than the other vintages we had so far. More of a farmhouse character of dried hay, Brett, and a basket of dried red fruit. Vibrant acidity lifting all the dimensions of flavor. Second favorite of the flight."
In this case, Andres agreed: "My #2 (tie) pick - Excellent nose, black plum, licorice, grilled herbs, and smoke. Showing very fresh and still youthful. Good acid and a long finish."
For John this wine was almost as good as the 1993.
For Ron, similar to the 1993, this wine was very Bordeaux-like, displaying beautiful red berry fruits with floral notes and baking spices. Elegant and balanced on the finish with good structure.
1994 - Juan: "Comments all around were comparing this wine to Penfolds Grange. I am not as versed, but I got a very savory character out of this vintage. Like salted and cured meat, spice, herb. Umami." For Andres, "my #2 (tie) pick - Excellent. Baking spice, tar, menthol, black currants and tanned leather. Reminds me of a Penfolds Grange from the early 90's. Seamless finish. Complete."
John saw this wine as the showstopper and he would love to have it paired with an entree.
1985 - First one was corked so I opened another. According to Juan, the second one was much better, but still slightly flawed. A meditative wine. The most thought provoking of the night.
For Andres, the second bottle showed dried herbs, black tea, dusty tannins, and its age.
Flight 3:
1981- Juan: "Showing very well. Still fresh for its age. Elegant and wrinkled. I tried to listen to its story as I continue to learn the language of old wine."
Andres declined to cosign Juan's assessment. From his perspective the wine was showing no signs of life.
The wines which garnered the most acclaim were the 1993, 1994, 2001, and 2006. And this mirrors what I had found with two of these wines that I had tasted while at the estate. And in the case of the 1993 and 2006, this mirrored what I had found when I tasted those wines at the estate. At its best this is a Bordeaux blend which is world class. When the purchase price is factored in, it becomes even more attractive.
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The historic Porto Carras Grand Resort, which, in addition to Domaine Porto Carras, includes hotels, a marina, a housing development, and an 18-hole golf course, was built initially by Yiannis Carras and then acquired in 1999 by the Stengos Family's Technical Olympic Group. Yliana Stengos managed Domaine Porto Carras and I was pleased to call her a friend. The resort was sold to Belterra Investment earlier this year and the impacts of the sale on the vineyard is still to be determined. I reached out to the new organization earlier in the year to gain their participation on one of my Instagram Live Chats but they declined the invitation.
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