Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion is, according to Berry Bros & Rudd, "... the greatest Graves wine after Haut-Brion and in some vintages is considered the superior wine of the two." This is one of our most-oft-consumed Bordeaux wines and I share some of those tasting experiences in this post.
The Estate
Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion is located in the Pessac-Leognan commune of the Graves sub-region of Bordeaux. The estate produces three wines: Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion (the estate wine); La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion (the second wine); and Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc. Vines for the red wines are grown on 26 hectares of gravelly soil layered on a sandy clay subsoil. The vineyard is planted to 43% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Cabernet Franc. The grapes are hand-picked at harvesting and sorted in the fields. The grapes for the estate wine are sourced from vines that average 27 years of age and the fermented juice is aged between 18 and 22 months in 80% new oak. The second wine is made from grapes picked from vines up to 7 years old as well as lower-quality grapes from older vines.
La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc was called Chateau Laville Haut-Brion prior to the 2009 vintage. The grapes (87% Semillon and 13% Sauvignon Blanc) for this wine are grown on a 2.5 hectare plot where the vines average 63 years of age.
La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc was called Chateau Laville Haut-Brion prior to the 2009 vintage. The grapes (87% Semillon and 13% Sauvignon Blanc) for this wine are grown on a 2.5 hectare plot where the vines average 63 years of age.
Tasting of Selected La Mission Haut-Brion Wines
I have tasted a number of vintages of this wine and recount those in the following.
La Mission Haut-Brion - Institute of Masters of Wine Tasting
Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion held, in conjunction with the Institute of Masters of Wine, a vertical tasting of selected vintages of its wines at London's Trinity House. The tasting was hosted by HRH Prince Robert of Luxembourg, President of Domaine Clarence Dillon S.A. (owners of La Mission Haut-Brion as well as its more famous sibling Chateau Haut-Brion), and Jean-Philippe Delmas, Estate Manager.
The wines on offer at the tasting were: La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion 2006; La Mission Haut-Brion (2005, 2003, 2001, 2000, 1998, 1990 and 1985); and Chateau Laville Haut-Brion 2006. The tasting panel was comprised of Prince Robert of Luxembourg, Jean-Philippe Delmas, Richard Bampfield MW (moderator) and John Salvi MW.
Panelist introductions were conducted by John Salvi and, in his opening remarks, he noted that the Delmas family have been caretakers of Dillon properties for 84 years, beginning with George Delmas in 1923 and continuing through to Jean-Philippe who took over from his father in 2004.
In his remarks, Prince Robert emphasized the "eminent history" of La Mission beginning with its founding in the early part of the 16th century. According to Prince Robert, when Domaine Clarence Dillon bought La Mission in 1983, the vines were not in good shape but an extensive replanting program addressed that issue. A new vat room was built in 1987 and a rebuilding of the remaining physical aspects of the estate launched soon thereafter. The most significant accomplishment, from his perspective, has been the attainment of a greater regularity in the quality of the wine.
The first wine tasted was the 2006 La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion. Beginning with the 2006 vintage, the grapes from the 5 hectares of the discontinued Chateau La Tour Haut-Brion, previously a distinct cru under the Dillon umbrella, was blended into La Chapelle. The 2006 vintage, following the 2005, was widely anticipated but was a disappointment in Pomerol and Graves due to late rain and a hot July. According to UK retailer BBR, this was, however, a very good vintage for Pessac-Leognan. It was primarily a Cabernet vintage but Merlot was also picked in good condition. BBR thought that the Cabernets from some properties (La Mission, for example) were stunning and produced "fine, well-balanced wines." The final blend for this wine is assembled after in-cask malolactic fermentation. In the case of the 2006 vintage, the blend was 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, and 20% Cabernet Franc. The wine was aged in 80% new French oak and had 13.5% abv. Dark fruits, earth, tobacco, cassis, and spice on the nose. Dark fruits and earth on the palate. Round, with a medium finish.
The next wine tasted was the 2005 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion. According to Jean-Philippe, 2005 was a dry year from winter through the end of harvest leading to what Chris Kissack called "... one of the greatest Bordeaux vintages of recent decades." The final composition of the blend was 69% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Cabernet Franc with alcohol levels of 14.5%. This wine was ripe, rich, and powerful, exhibiting notes of black fruits, coffee, licorice and vanilla and a mild green florality. Very long finish.
The third wine tasted was the 2003 La Mission Haut-Brion. This was Europe's heatwave year, with an extremely hot August. For this vintage, the chateau began harvesting fruit on August 13th, the earliest start date ever. The Merlot harvest began on the 18th of August (the Merlot suffered, according to Jean-Philippe) and the Cabernet Sauvignon on September 10th. The final composition of the blend was 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Franc. This wine was not as soft as the 2005 but had good structure and a finish of intermediate length.
The next wine tasted was the 2001 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion. The 2001 vintage in Bordeaux was characterized by warm weather in ealy February followed by cooling in late February and through most of the growing season. This cool weather was punctuated by rainfall in August. Jancis Robinson views this vintage as "very nicely balanced" but geographically patchy. BBR saw the best communes for reds as being St. Julien, Pauillac, Margaux, and Pessac Leognan. The final La Mission blend for this vintage was 63% Merlot, 35 % Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Cabernet Franc. This wine was reticent on the nose but had good weight on the palate, good balance, and a medium finish.
The 2000 vintage in Bordeaux was much anticipated and it delivered on its promise. According to BBR, the weather leading up to harvest was excellent and rain was almost non-existent. These conditions resulted in "ripe, succulent fruit" with "fine, firm tannins" and structure and depth reserved for only the finest Bordeauxs. The composition of the 2000 La Mission Haut-Brion was 58% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 11% Cabernet Franc. On the nose this wine presented black fruit, cassis and vanilla. It delivered on the palate along with a richness and lengthy finish.
The next wine in the series was the 1998 La Mission Haut-Brion. The vintage was characterized by variable weather during the growing season and dry conditions during the Merlot harvest in early September. Even though rain affected the Cabernet Sauvignon harvest in late September, the Pessac Leognan wines fared much better than their left-bank counterparts, probably because of their higher Merlot content. This was a 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot blend for La Mission. On the nose, notes of leather, dried black fruit, spices and olives. On the palate, soft tannins integrated into the fruit, excellent balance, richness, and a long finish.
A hot, dry summer yielded rich, age-worthy wines all across Bordeaux in 1990. The 1990 La Mission Haut-Brion blend in that year was 48% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the remainder Cabernet Franc. This wine is developing beautifully with bell pepper, cedar box, leather, graphite and an earthy minerality on the nose. The tannins are less integrated and this provides a slight drying-out on the palate but overall this wine has great balance.
The last red in the series was the Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion 1985. That year was described by BBR as an "extremely successful year in Bordeaux which produced some of the most immediately seductive and appealing clarets in living memory." On the nose this wine had great minerality, black fruit, leather, cedarbox, graphite and mild green beans. It exhibited richness and great length on the palate.
In commenting on the 2006 dry white wines from Bordeaux, Chris Kissack found then to be "... vibrant, packed with flavor, bright and lively," the result of cool weather during August and a resultant gradual ripening with retention of aroma and freshness. The 2006 Chateau Laville Haut-Brion was not the exception to this rule. For this wine the blend was 86% Semillon and 14% Sauvignon Blanc with the former adding structure and the latter acidity. On the nose tropical fruits, lime, grapefruit, honeydew melon, peaches, spice, and bland red pepper. Fresh, with some heat, on the palate.
The third wine tasted was the 2003 La Mission Haut-Brion. This was Europe's heatwave year, with an extremely hot August. For this vintage, the chateau began harvesting fruit on August 13th, the earliest start date ever. The Merlot harvest began on the 18th of August (the Merlot suffered, according to Jean-Philippe) and the Cabernet Sauvignon on September 10th. The final composition of the blend was 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Franc. This wine was not as soft as the 2005 but had good structure and a finish of intermediate length.
The next wine tasted was the 2001 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion. The 2001 vintage in Bordeaux was characterized by warm weather in ealy February followed by cooling in late February and through most of the growing season. This cool weather was punctuated by rainfall in August. Jancis Robinson views this vintage as "very nicely balanced" but geographically patchy. BBR saw the best communes for reds as being St. Julien, Pauillac, Margaux, and Pessac Leognan. The final La Mission blend for this vintage was 63% Merlot, 35 % Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Cabernet Franc. This wine was reticent on the nose but had good weight on the palate, good balance, and a medium finish.
The 2000 vintage in Bordeaux was much anticipated and it delivered on its promise. According to BBR, the weather leading up to harvest was excellent and rain was almost non-existent. These conditions resulted in "ripe, succulent fruit" with "fine, firm tannins" and structure and depth reserved for only the finest Bordeauxs. The composition of the 2000 La Mission Haut-Brion was 58% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 11% Cabernet Franc. On the nose this wine presented black fruit, cassis and vanilla. It delivered on the palate along with a richness and lengthy finish.
The next wine in the series was the 1998 La Mission Haut-Brion. The vintage was characterized by variable weather during the growing season and dry conditions during the Merlot harvest in early September. Even though rain affected the Cabernet Sauvignon harvest in late September, the Pessac Leognan wines fared much better than their left-bank counterparts, probably because of their higher Merlot content. This was a 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot blend for La Mission. On the nose, notes of leather, dried black fruit, spices and olives. On the palate, soft tannins integrated into the fruit, excellent balance, richness, and a long finish.
A hot, dry summer yielded rich, age-worthy wines all across Bordeaux in 1990. The 1990 La Mission Haut-Brion blend in that year was 48% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the remainder Cabernet Franc. This wine is developing beautifully with bell pepper, cedar box, leather, graphite and an earthy minerality on the nose. The tannins are less integrated and this provides a slight drying-out on the palate but overall this wine has great balance.
The last red in the series was the Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion 1985. That year was described by BBR as an "extremely successful year in Bordeaux which produced some of the most immediately seductive and appealing clarets in living memory." On the nose this wine had great minerality, black fruit, leather, cedarbox, graphite and mild green beans. It exhibited richness and great length on the palate.
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| Jean-Philippe Delmas |
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| Prince Robert of Luxembourg and Author |
A World of Cabernet Sauvignon at Vines Bar and Grill
I recently convened a tasting panel at the Vines Bar and Grill on Sand Lake Road in Orlando to investigate the characteristics of Cabernet Sauvignon grown under differing soil and climatic conditions.
The tasting was divided into four region specific flights: Bordeaux; Chile/Washington State/Bolgheri; Napa/Sonoma; and Margaret River/Coonawarra/Barossa Valley. The Bordeaux flight is definitely a left-bank flight and largely drawn from the Medoc, the primary Cabernet Sauvignon space in the region. The characteristics of the Medoc and Graves have been detailed in previous posts. This particular flight was comprised of the following wines: 1967 Chateau Montrose (St. Estephe); 1998 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac); 2003 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou (St. Julien); 1996 Chateau d'Issan (Margaux); and 2003 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion. Panelists notes are presented in this post.
The tasting was divided into four region specific flights: Bordeaux; Chile/Washington State/Bolgheri; Napa/Sonoma; and Margaret River/Coonawarra/Barossa Valley. The Bordeaux flight is definitely a left-bank flight and largely drawn from the Medoc, the primary Cabernet Sauvignon space in the region. The characteristics of the Medoc and Graves have been detailed in previous posts. This particular flight was comprised of the following wines: 1967 Chateau Montrose (St. Estephe); 1998 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac); 2003 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou (St. Julien); 1996 Chateau d'Issan (Margaux); and 2003 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion. Panelists notes are presented in this post.
The 2003 La Mission Haut-Brion was previously tasted at the Masters of Wine La Mission Haut-Brion tasting in London. At that time I had characterized the wine as having good structure and a finish of intermediate length. The panel picked up pencil shavings and graphite on the nose but all in all felt that the nose was not saying much. Ron said that La Mission for him meant scorched earth, tobacco, and road tar and he was not picking up any of that This wine had more of a Napa feel along with little acid and a middling finish. The sentiment was that while the wine was disjointed at this time, it would mature into a more pleasing wine with patience.
1982 Bordeaux Tasting at Bull and Bear
Flight V: Chateau Haut-Brion and Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion
The Haut-Brion was, disappointingly, maderized. The 1982 La Mission Haut-Brion had been awarded 96 points by Robert Parker. In our tasting we detected notes of mushrooms, earth, tobacco, molasses, and dried stewed fruits. Layered, complex, with a long finish.
White and Sauternes Flight: Chateau Laville Haut-Brion and Chateau d'Yquem
The Laville Haut-Brion had notes of crushed pineapple, ocean air, boat exhaust, linseed oil and a certain waxiness. On the palate freshness, gasoline, smoked lychees, stony minerality, volcanic ash. Dry, balanced finish. For us, a vino de meditazione.
The Haut-Brion was, disappointingly, maderized. The 1982 La Mission Haut-Brion had been awarded 96 points by Robert Parker. In our tasting we detected notes of mushrooms, earth, tobacco, molasses, and dried stewed fruits. Layered, complex, with a long finish.
White and Sauternes Flight: Chateau Laville Haut-Brion and Chateau d'Yquem
The Laville Haut-Brion had notes of crushed pineapple, ocean air, boat exhaust, linseed oil and a certain waxiness. On the palate freshness, gasoline, smoked lychees, stony minerality, volcanic ash. Dry, balanced finish. For us, a vino de meditazione.
Night of Wines at Victoria and Albert
This was a Bordeaux-only flight and was led off by a 1966 La Mission Haut Brion. Wow! It has been a long time since we had a Bordeaux that beat the Burgundies and this was the Groups’ WOTN. I can not keep my hands off this wine. This wine presented a kaleidoscope of flavors beginning with sweet blackcherry, smoke, tar, cigar box, soy, spice, and mineral. The finish is near perfect as it has reached it's peak and well stored bottles will keep for several more years (Ron's notes).
Miscellaneous Lunch/Dinner Tastings
La Mission Haut-Brion 2004 -- Notes of black fruits, cedar, leather, earth, forest floor, licorice, and tobacco. Medium-bodied. Showing good balance. Youthful and still slightly closed (Ron's note).
La Mission Haut-Brion 1978 -- Sweet black fruits with an earthy, tobacco, cedar, licorice, and a smoky, tarry note. Full-bodied on the palate with melted tannins. Very youthful. One of the great La Mishes (Ron's note).
La Mission Haut-Brion 1993 -- Classic example of how La Mish makes great wine in off vintages. Intoxicating nose of black fruits, mineral, road tar, earth, cedar, leather tobacco, licorice, and spice. I have not tasted a better 1993 Bordeaux (Ron's note).
La Mission Haut-Brion 1979 -- I love La Mish; including off-vintages. This wine showed sweet red and black fruits, forest floor, leather, road tar, licorice, cigar ash, and spice. A fully mature wine that is still drinking well (Ron's note).
La Mission Haut-Brion 1976 -- Notes of soy, tobacco, leather, cedar, cigar box, and mushroom. Savory on the palate. Blackcurrant and plum. Lengthy finish.
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One of my favorite Bordeauxs. Ron has acquired a ton of the 1966s and we have drunk a lot of those over the past many years.
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