Brunello di Montalcino DOCG

Montalcino, centered on a little hilltop town located 110 Km south of Florence in the southern portion of Siena province, is home to Brunello di Montalcino DOCG and its associated wine, one of the most famous, revered, and sought after in all of Italy.  The town, sitting at 1900 feet above sea level at its highest point, encompasses approximately 24,000 hectares and is bordered by the River Orcia to the south, the River Asso to the east, and the River Ombrone to the north and west.

Source: http://www.atlantawineschool.com/images/thumbpages/montalcino.html

Of the 1200 or so hectares available for viticulture in the area, slightly less than half is used to grow Sangiovese Grosso (its official name) or, as it is more commonly called, Brunello di Montalcino.

Source: http://www.wine-toscana.com/tuscany.htm

Montalcino has a warm, Mediterranean climate that is cooled by its altitude. The area is one of the warmest and driest (20 inches of rainfall per year) in Tuscany but that is tempered somewhat by cool evening breezes. The warm, dry conditions allow the grapes to ripen fully, an end result that is aided and abetted by the protection from hailstorms and rainfall that is afforded by the Amiato mountain range to the south.

Source: http://www.casasantapia.com/maps/brunellomap.jpg

In general, the soils in Montalcino are sandier and have greater limestone content than is the case for the remainder of the Chianti region. To the north and east, the soil is primarily clay with a high volcanic-sandstone content. In the western third, the soil is a calcium-rich, chalky gravel marl over a clay subsoil. At the highest point the soil is schist-based.

The 1200 hectares of Montalcino suitable for viticulture is located between 300 and 500 meters above sea level.  The most desirable vineyards are located on south-facing slopes where the intense sunlight and cool maritime breezes lead to more powerful, complex wines.  Grapes grown on north-facing slopes tend to ripen at a slower pace and have distinctively different aromas and flavors.  Due to the steepness of the terraces, manual harvesting is the norm.

Brunello (the name means "little dark one," a reference to the brown hue of the skin) di Montalcino is one of Tuscany's eight DOCGs, a status it obtained in 1980. Sangiovese Grosso is a clone of the Sangiovese grape which produces wines with rich fruit, quality tannins, and elevated acidity, factors which contributes to long ageing.  The production rules for Brunello di Montalcino are as follows:

• 100% Sangiovese Grosso produced within the delimited zone
• Vineyards must be planted on hills with good exposure at altitude not surpassing 600 meters
• Maximum yield of 80 quintals/hectare
• Maximum of 2.7 kilos of wine/vine
• 68% of yield can be called Brunello
• Aged a minimum of 2 years in wood and 4 months in bottle; Riserva to be released a minimum of 5 years after harvest
• 12% minimum alcohol
• All production operations to be carried out within the production zone
• Wine required to undergo chemical and tasting tests prior to bottling in order to receive certification
• May only be sold in Bordeaux-style bottles

Brunello di Montalcino wines have been described variously as "full-bodied and earthy," with a muskiness on the nose and red berries on the palate.  The wine is generally characterized by significant tannin, concentration without jamminess, blackberry, black cherry, chocolate, and leather.  The wine ages slowly and gracefully and pairs well with hearty Tuscan dishes such as wild boar.  Some of the important Brunello producers are Altesimo, Casanova di Neri, Poggio Antico, Siro Pacenti, and Biondi-Santi.

A second tier wine, Rosso di Montalcino DOC, was introduced in 1990 to allow wineries to market a Sangiovese Grosso after 1 year rather than the four years they traditionally wait to introduce the Brunello. Rosso is less expensive than Brunello and is also lighter, less intense, and easier to drink.

Brunello di Montalcino wines have historically been matured in large old Slovenion oak casks which impart no flavors to the wine.  The wine produced using this traditional method has been characterized by some as tannic and dry and "modernists" have sought to address this complaint by ageing in new French oak barrels.  These barrels soften the Sangiovese tannins and contribute a "lingering" vanilla flavor to the wine.

The Consorzio di Vino Brunello di Montalcino is responsible for the protection of Brunello's "welfare and reputation."  It does so through activities such as marketing the wines, rating the vintages , and ensuring that DOCG standards are adhered to by association members.  This voluntary association was created in 1967 and now represents about 250 producers.

A World of Cabernet Sauvignon: Chile, Washington, and Tuscany

I recently convened a tasting panel at the Vines Bar and Grill on Sand Lake Road in Orlando to investigate the characteristics of Cabernet Sauvignon grown under differing soil and climatic conditions. The tasting was titled ‘A World of Cabernet Sauvignon’ and its intent and framework were detailed in a previous post.  The tasting was divided into four flights: Bordeaux; Chile/Washington State/Bolgheri; Napa/Sonoma; and Margaret River/Coonawarra/Barossa Valley.  The Bordeaux flight was covered previously.  The second flight, covered herein, included the following wines: 1997 Don Melchor (Maipo Valley, Chile); 2006 Quilceda Creek (Columbia Valley, WA); 2003 Leonetti Reserve (Walla Walla Valley, WA); and 1998 Ornellaia (Bolgheri, Tuscany). 

The 1997 Don Melchor (Parker 94 points) from Concha Y Toro was the first wine tasted in this flight.  The Puente Alto Vineyard, the source of the grapes for this wine, is located south of Santiago in the Maipo Valley at elevations varying between 1200 and 1500 feet. The climate is Mediterranean with 350 to 450 mm of rain annually and thermal oscillation in excess of 68 degrees. The soil is a combination of riverine deposits and eroded rock. The winery contends that its proximity to the Maipo Canyon renders its vineyards the coolest in the region. The Puente Alto Vineyard consists of contiguous sub-divided plots with each of the six Cabernet Sauvignon blocks having its own distinctive style.


Panel tasting notes:  This wine exhibited a lot of green on the nose; bell pepper and dill.  Ron felt that it showed up as new world immediately but, while enjoyable, he found it non-complex.  Andrew indicated that he would not call it non-complex; rather, he would say that geographically it is an indication of Chilean Cabernet.  Vegetal notes are more pronounced in the wines of Chile, especially Cabernet Sauvignon, and lends to them being easily distinguishable.  In response to a query about the ripeness of the fruit Andrew said that the grapes were ripe enough but this is the way that the grapes have adapted to the land.  Ron commented that these wines were no longer the value they used to be.

On the palate, mint, camphor and eucalyptus flavors, clay, very soft acidity, and a rich mouth feel.  A lot of fruit and indications of a hot vintage.  Uni-dimensional.

The 2007 Quilceda Creek (Parker 100 points) was the next wine up.  Quilceda Creek was founded in 1979 and produces a signature Cabernet, two single-vineyard Cabs, and a red blend.  Grapes for the signature Cabernet are sourced from the Tapteil,  Klipsun, and Discovery vineyards. Tapteil Vineyard is a 25-acre property owned by Larry Pearson and located in the Red Mountain AVA.  It is planted to Cabernet Sauvignon (15 acres), Cabernet Franc (2 acres) and Merlot (2.5 acres).  The Cabernet Sauvignon is known for concentration of color and supple tannins while the Merlot is known for the production of rich, dark wines. The vineyard sits between 750 and 900 feet on Warden silt loam soil and has a southwest facing slope.  Klipsun Vineyard sits on 280 acres – of which 120 are planted to vine (28 acres Merlot, 60.7 acres Cabernet Sauvignon, 5.2 acres Semillon, 12.6 acres Sauvignon Blanc, 5 acres Syrah, and .5 acres Nebbiola – on the western slope of Red Mountain.  This vineyard produces 300 tons of grapes annually and its fruit is renowned for structure and aromatics.  It has been designated one of the top 25 vineyards in the world by Wine and Spirits magazine.  Discovery Vineyard (Horse Heaven Hills AVA) was first planted in 2005 and is home to 17 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, 6 acres of Syrah, and 1 acre of Petit Verdot.  It sits between 500 and 590 feet on wind-blown loess over fractured basalt soil with a south/southeast aspect.

Panel tasting notes:  According to Ron, Quilceda Creek has averaged 99 Parker points since the 1999 vintage.  He remembers Parker’s 1999 tasting notes describing Quilceda Creek as somewhere between a Margaux and a La Mission Haut-Brion so he called the winery immediately and got on their mailing list.

Dulce de leche and caramel on the nose.  Rich and creamy on the palate and reminiscent of cake batter.  Great mouth feel.  Acid and tannin balance out the massive fruit structure.  Highly extracted without being jammy.  Still young but loads of promise.  In Ron’s opinion not a 100-point wine.

The third wine tasted was the 2003 Leonetti Reserve (Parker 97 points).  Leonetti Cellar sources fruit for its wines from Seven Hills, Loess, and Mill Creek Upland Vineyards.  Seven Hills Vineyard was planted in 1980 and, as such, was one of the first vineyards in Walla Walla.  It is currently owned by Gary Figgins, Marty Clubb, and Bob Rupar and its output is sold to 25 premium wineries.  The 235 acres of vineyard sits on Edingford silt loam (wind-blown glacial loess) at between 850 and 1050 feet elevation.  Loess Vineyard sits on 28 acres at 1050 to 1150 feet elevation on Walla Walla silt loam soil.   The primary varietals are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,  Petit Verdot, and Malbec and the wines are known for intense aromatics, red and dark fruits, and balance.  Mill Creek Upland is a 16-acre property sitting between 1485 and 1600 feet elevation with a south/southwest aspect.  The soil is Athena and Walla Walla silt loam.  Primary varietals are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Sangiovese.  Wines exhibit traditional mountain fruit characteristics with dry, dark color, great acidity, dark fruits and dried herbs.

Panel tasting notes:  Raspberry and blackberry on the nose along with a certain creaminess.  The components of the wine hang together well.  Beef stock and petrol flavors.  Well integrated tannins.  Ron described the wine as refreshing and in a “perfect place” in terms of development.  Andrew felt that this wine presented much better on the nose than it did on the palate.  This wine was selected as the wine of the flight.

The final wine in this flight was the 1998 Ornellaia.  This wine was rated 93 points by Robert Parker but was rated 96 points by Wine Spectator and crowned 2001 Wine of the Year by that publication.  Full details on the Ornellaia vineyards and winemaking practices are contained in the post on my visit to the Ornellaia estate.

Panel tasting notes:  On the nose vegetal aromas, tobacco, dried earth, spice. Overall, though, a somewhat muted nose (panel agreed on the need for some more decant time).  A lively debate on the Bordeaux-ness of this wine ensued.  Ron felt that it was Bordeaux-like while I argued for the intrusion of some new world elements into the mix.  We felt that the wine was timid on the attack but built well towards the mid-palate.  Great balance.  Well integrated, even in this youthful phase, with the promise of phenomenal longevity.

The room was abuzz.  We were oblivious to the world outside our glass-encased room.  We were drinking very good wine and engaging in spirited discussions about those wines. There was an intoxicating level of dynamism and give and take.  We were in a zone and learning, and tasting, and debunking myths and sacred cows.  I was loving it.

Next up, Napa and Sonoma.

Columbia Valley: Marquee Cabernet Sauvignon Region

As a part of my reporting on the World of Cabernet Sauvignon investigation, I am developing profiles of the Cabernet Sauvignon regions not previously covered in this blog.  Columbia Valley and Walla Walla Valley in Washington fall within that category and are profiled in this post.

Washington is second only to California in US grape production.  Due to the rain-shadow effect of the Cascade Mountains, most of the state’s quality wine production occurs to its east where rainfall averages 6-8 inches per year.  Irrigation in the wine regions is primarily from riverine sources.

Primarily due to the Cascades, Washington State wine regions operate in a continental climate of hot dry summers and cold winters.  The state’s location at 46 degrees north latitude provides 17 hours of daylight in the growing season (two more hours per day than Napa) and this, combined with extreme diurnal temperatures, allows for good ripening with acid retention.  The free draining sandy soils and cold winters serve as repellents to the phylloxera louse.

Columbia Valley

The Columbia Valley AVA (established in 1984) extends over central and southern Washington and juts into the northern portion of Oregon.  Spread over 11 million acres, this is the largest AVA in the state and itself contains a number smaller AVAs to include Yakima Valley, Red Mountain, Walla Walla Valley, Horse Heaven Hills, Rattlesnake Hills, Wahluke Slope, and Snipes Mountain.  Ninety percent of the grapes grown in Washington are sourced from the 6,851 acres of vineyards planted in this AVA.

At 46 degrees to 45 degrees N, Columbia lies on the same parallel as the famed French wine regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy.  The climate is continental but on a day-to-day basis, it is desert-like with hot days and cool nights.  With annual rainfall of 6 to 8 inches, irrigation from the Columbia River and its tributaries is a requirement.  In addition to being a water source for the vineyards, the Columbia and its tributaries also serve to moderate summer and winter temperatures.  The area is subject to vine-killing winter freezes which mandate replanting of damaged vines.  The cold weather, along with sandy soils, is credited with keeping the phyloxerra louse at bay allowing the vines to sit on their own rootstocks.

The soil in the Columbia Valley AVA is primarily silt, sand, and loess sediment.  Most of the regions vines are planted on south-facing slopes thus increasing solar radiation in summer and  drainage in the winter months.

The most widely planted grape varieties in the region are Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Syrah.  Some of the notable wineries include Quilceda Creek, Columbia Crest, Chateau St. Michel, Col Solare, and Owen Roe.

The Cabernet Sauvignons of Washington are characterized by an easy drinking style with lower levels of tannin than enmcountered in Bordeaux and Napa. The blog site winepeeps.com has described the Cabernets from the region as a great Cab at a fair price. The site has noted that Washington winemakers are migrating away from weedy, vegetal characteristics which they see as being associated with the younger Cabernet Sauvignon wine regions.

Walla Walla Valley AVA

This is an arid zone of 530 square miles with vineyards that stretch over into northern Oregon.  The area contains 1600 acres of vineyards and 100 wineries.

The area experiences very little rainfall due to the Cascade Mountains rain shadow and, as for the larger Columbia Valley AVA, irrigation is a key enabler.  The AVA has a 200-day-long growing season which is characterized by hot days and cool nights.  The area is subject to sudden temperature shifts  as cold air from the Blue Mountains on occasion is trapped in the valleys.  Growers are always on guard for the possibility of killing freezes during the winter.

Basaltic lava flows millions of years ago formed the Columbia Plateau of which the Walla Walla Plateau is a part.  Ice age floods have contributed rich, silty soils and huge boulders.

The primary varietals grown are Cabernet Sauvignon (41%), Merlot (26%), and Syrah (16%) along with small amounts of Cabernet Franc (4%), Sangiovese (2%), and Chardonnay (2%).  Some of the more important wineries include L’Ecole No. 41, Leonetti Cellar, Cayuse Vineyard, and Woodward Canyon.

Red Mountain AVA

The Red Mountain AVA -- the smallest in the state -- is fully encapsulated within the Yakima Valley AVA which is, in turn, a part of the larger Columbia Valley AVA.  The AVAs 4000 acres is comprised of a steep, south-facing slope running along the eastern edge of Yakima Valley.  The area supports 15 local wineries with its 600+ acres of vineyards but it is better known for providing grapes for some of the most acclaimed wines in the state.  The primary varietals grown in the AVA include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese, Malbec, and Petit Verdot.

Red Mountain is desertic with 5 inches of rainfall per year, hot days (90 degrees), and cool nights (50 degrees) and experiences warmer temperatures and more sunlight than any other AVA in the state.  The Yakima river moderates temperature wjhile the cool air from the north flows down the hillside and cools the grapes.

The AVA lies between 500 and 1500 feet elevation.  The soil is a result of flooding action on the rocky landscape 10,000 years ago which resulted in deposits of nutrient-rich topsoil comprised of high-alkaline, high-calcium-carbonate gravel.

The AVA is known for its powerful, high-tannin red wines with "intense concentration of red berry flavors."  The area is especially known for its structured Cabernets and the use of Clone 8 Cabernet fruit results in Napa-style wines. 

Horse Heaven Hills AVA

Horse Heaven Hills was awarded AVA status in 2005.  The AVA, falling within the bounds of the Columbia Valley AVA,  covers 57,000 acres, is 50 miles long and 20 miles wide, and lies between 300 and 1800 feet elevation.  Of the AVAs 9644 planted acres, 2400 fall within the state of Washington, with the remainder in Oregon.  The region suports 28 vineyards and 6 wineries with Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah as the primary planted varietals.

Vineyards lie on south-sloping benches along the Columbia River and are exposed to much more wind than vineyards in other Washington AVAs.  These strong winds act as deterrents to rot and fungus while serving to thicken the grape skins and concentrate the juices.

A World of Cabernet Sauvignon: The Bordeaux Flight

I recently convened a tasting panel at the Vines Bar and Grill on Sand Lake Road in Orlando to investigate the characteristics of Cabernet Sauvignon grown under differing soil and climatic conditions.  The tasting was titled A World of Cabernet Sauvignon and its intent and framework were detailed in a previous post. 

The tasting was divided into four region specific flights: Bordeaux; Chile/Washington State/Bolgheri; Napa/Sonoma; and Margaret River/Coonawarra/Barossa Valley.  The Bordeaux flight is definitely a left-bank flight and largely drawn from the Medoc, the primary Cabernet Sauvignon space in the region. The characteristics of the Medoc and Graves have been detailed in previous posts.  This particular flight was comprised of the following wines: 1967 Chateau Montrose (St. Estephe); 1998 Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac); 2003 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou (St. Julien); 1996 Chateau d'Issan (Margaux); and 2003 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion.  Panelists notes are presented in this post.

Chateau Montrose is a Second Growth estate located in the commune of St. Estephe.  The uni-block, 65-hectare property lies on sloping ground in close proximity to the Gironde River.  The influence that the Gironde exerts is reflected in the fact that the estate harvests a full two weeks prior to any of the other Medoc properties. The estate is planted to 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 8% Cab Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot.  The vines lie on gravel and black sand which, in turn, lies on a clay and marl subsoil.  The gravel in the soil originated in the Massif Central and the Pyrenees and aid in grape maturity by absorbing heat during the day and releasing it during the night.on gravel soil.  The estate produces  a Cru wine as well as a second wine named La Dame de Montrose. The estate wine is generally 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc.  Fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks with a 30-day post-fermentation maceration for the estate wine.  The first wine is aged in 70% new French oak for 18 months while the second wine is aged in 20% new oak for 12 months.  The estate produces 19,000 and 9,000 cases, respectively, of its first and second wines.

The 1967 Montrose (Parker 82 points) was the first wine tasted.  It had notes of cedar, saddle leather, mint, must, and earth.  It was less-than-mouthfilling with dusky tannins and a hollow finish.  Ron Seigel (one of our panelists and someone who has probably drunk more old Bordeaux than anyone else in Orlando) reminded us that 1967 was a tough year in Bordeaux with lots of rain.  He doubted whether any other wine from that vintage would have held up as long as the Montrose had.

Chateau Mouton-Rothschild is a 75-hectare, First Growth vineyard located in the commune of Pauillac.  The estate is 40 meters above sea level on soil comprised of gravel over a base of sand, clay, marl, and limestone.  The vines, which average 50 years of age, is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot.  The estate produces two red wines (Estate and Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild) and one white (Aile d'Argent). The Estate wine undergoes natural-yeast fermentation in large wooden vats with 15-25 days maceration and 22 months in oak before bottling. Average annual production is 25,000 cases. 

The next wine tasted in this flight was the 1998 Mouton (96 points Parker).  This particular vintage was 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc.  Some pencil and graphite on the nose but this wine appeared to be in a closed phase.  All of the blocks are in place to reward a future drinker.  We placed this wine on the side to revisit later on in the tasting. 

Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou is a 75-hectare Second Growth estate located in the commune of St. Julien on the bank of the Gironde at a point where the estuary is 4 miles wide.  The Gironde, because it moves large masses of air past the estate, moderates the temperature providing heat in the winter and coolness in the summertime.  The estate sits on an outcropping of Gunz gravel and the small white stones: (i) enhance soil drainage; (ii) reflect sunlight onto the tightly planted grapes during the daytime: (iii) store energy during the daytime and releases it during the nighttime hours; and (iv) keeps the ground from drying out during hot periods. The vines are 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and average 35 years of age.  In addition to the primary wine, the estate also produces a second wine (La Croix de Beaucailllou) from grapes grown on this property.  Two other wines (Chateau Lalande-Borie and Chateau Ducluzeau) are produced with grapes from other properties.

The grapes are hand-picked and sorted in the vineyards.  Batches are individually fermented (14 days) in stainless steel tanks with a 7-day maceration and twice daily pumping over.  Malolactic fermentation occurs in concrete vats and the resultant wine is placed in new French oak barrels for 18 months. 

The next wine up was the 2003 vintage from this estate.  This vintage was a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot aged in 80% new oak and had been awarded a score of 96 by Parker.  The wine had a tannin index of 80, alcohol of 13.28, acidity of 3.10, and pH of 3.8, characteristics which show excellent balance, according to the winery. On the nose hints of chocolate and clove and ripe fruit.  On the palate this wine had a good feel, structure, and body with persistent soft tannins on the back end.  Because of the heat in 2003, this wine had a Napa structure but without the jamminess and alcohol. Excellent finish.  According to Russell, one of our panelists, this wine had the structure and body to be in the game for the long haul.  @thewinebarn indicated that he was not getting as much on the palate as the nose was promising but was pleased with the acidity levels. This wine was eventually selected as the wine of the flight by the panelists.

Chateau d'Issan is a Third Growth estate located in the commune of Margaux.  It is located on a 150-hectare property of which 52 hectare have been allocated to vineyards (30 hectares to production of the estate wine and a second wine Blason d'Issan; 11 hectares to the production of a third wine Chateau de Candale (Haut Medoc) and 11 hectares to the production of a third wine Moulin d'Issan (Bourdeaux Superieur)).  The soil is a combinbation of Gunzian gravel and clay-limestone. The vines are 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and average 35 years of age. The wines undergo a 6-day fermentation followed by 20-day maceration.  The estate wine is aged in 50% new oak for 16 months.  Annual production of the estate wine is approximately 10,000 cases.

The 1996 vintage of the estate wine (89 Parker) was tasted in this flight.  It was reminiscent of medicine and iodine and bell pepper.  On the palate it tasted of wet mold, underripe fruit, and tannin.  This was an unbalanced wine with massive drying out on the palate.  Ron said that he would have expected more from a 1996 Margaux as that commune had great wines in that year.

Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion is located in the Pessac-Leognan commune of the Graves sub-region of Bordeaux. The estate produces three wines: Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion (the estate wine); La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion (the second wine); and Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc. Vines for the red wines are grown on 26 hectares of gravelly soil layered on a sandy clay subsoil. The vineyard is planted to 43% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Cabernet Franc. The grapes are hand-picked at harvesting and sorted in the fields. The grapes for the estate wine are sourced from vines that average 27 years of age and the fermented juice is aged betwen 18 and 22 months in 80% new oak. The second wine is made from grapes picked from vines up to 7 years old as well as lower-quality wine from older vines

The final wine tasted in this flight was the 2003 La Mission Haut-Brion. For this vintage, the chateau began harvesting fruit on August 13th, the earliest start date ever. The Merlot harvest began on the 18th of August (the Merlot suffered, according to Jean-Philippe Delmas, Estate Manager) and the Cabernet Sauvignon on September 10th. The final composition of the blend was 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Franc.

This wine was previously tasted at the Masters of Wine La Mission Haut-Brion tasting in London.  At that time I had characterized the wine as having good structure and a finish of intermediate length.  The panel picked up pencil shavings and graphite on the nose but all in all felt that the nose was not saying much.  Ron said that La Mission for him meant scorched earth, tobacco, and road tar and he was not picking up any of that This wine had more of a Napa feel along with little acid and a middling finish.  The sentiment was that while the wine was disjointed at this time, it would mature into a more pleasing wine with patience.

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The first flight was a wonderful platform from which to launch the remainder of the tasting.  Everyone was in excellent spirits, wine was flowing, and the give and take around the table was wondrous to behold.  At that time I did not want to be elsewhere.  One of the things to notice coming out of this tasting is that the Bordeaux drinkers were referring to the 2003 Bordeaux vintage as producing Napa-structured wines, thus revealing a little of the thought process that they have built up over time.

In my next post I will cover the AVAs of Columbia Valley and Walla Walla and then follow that up with the tasting of the second flight.

A World Of Cabernet Sauvignon Tasting: The Wines

In a recent post I characterized the qualities of Cabernet Sauvignon and its place in the varietal firmament. Wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes exhibit different characteristics in differing soil and climatic conditions. For example, cool-climate Cabernet Sauvignon wines tend to show notes of green capsicum and cedarwood while the same varietal in warmer temperatures tends to express blackberry and black olive notes. In an effort to explore and investigate this phenomenon, I pulled together a tasting that I labeled A World of Cabernet. This tasting was held at Vines on Sand Lake Road in Orlando on June 25th, 2011.

The tasting panel for this investigation included some of the more notable Orlando-area wine collectors and they contributed all of the wines for the event. The requirements for a wine to be included in the tasting regime were as follows: (i) originate in one of the designated wine regions; (ii) have a minimum of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon in the finished product; and (iii) be a minimum of five years old.

For the purpose of this tasting the wines were divided into regional flights: Bordeaux; Washington State/Chile/Bolgheri; Napa/Sonoma; and Australia.

In upcoming posts I will discuss the regions, estates, and tasting notes with special emphasis on regional differences.

1982 Bordeaux Tasting at the Bull and Bear

The now-legendary 1982 vintage is considered a marker in the history of Bordeaux wines due to (i) exceptional wines across the region and (ii) the emergence of Robert Parker as a force to be reckoned with in the wine-prognostication arena.  Propelled by the siren song of the vintage, a group of us got together at the Bull and Bear Restaurant at the Waldorf Astoria to taste a representative sample of wines from this noted vintage.  The results of that tasting are reported herein.

The touchstones of the vintage were (i) a successful and populous flowering in June and (ii) heat throughout the summer capped by a September heatwave.  The large crop of super-ripe that was harvested produced wines which were, according to the NY Times, "rich, supple, tremendously fruity, full-bodied, and already drinkable."

Skeptics took the position that the wines from the 1982 vintage lacked balance and were destined for short shelf lives.  Robert Parker stood alone in describing this as one of the all-time great vintages; and history has borne him out.  In a 2000 retrospective tasting of 61 of the  wines from 1982 Parker assigned 100-point scores to Lafite, Latour, Mouton Rothschild, Pichon Lalande, Leoville Las Cases, and Lafleur.

The tasting was divided into five red flights, and a sixth flight which had one white wine (Chateau Laville Haut-Brion Blanc) and a Sauternes (Chateau d'Yquem).  Each of the red flights was associated with a Bordeaux commune: Pomerol (I), St. Julien (II), St. Estephe (III), Pauillac (IV), and Pessac-Leognan (V).  Chateau La Lagune does not fall into any of the foregoing communes so it was arbitrarily assigned to Flight IV.

Flight I: Chateau Certan de May, Chateau L'Evangile, and Chateau Latour à Pomerol.

The first wine tasted was the Certan de May, a 98 point wine as rated by Parker.  A slight hint of green on the nose accompanying aromas of butternut, smoky vanillin, sweet herbs, red fruits and cedar.  Slight oiliness on the nose.  On the palate a round mouthfeel, tobacco, vegetality, with medium acid and a slight drying characteristic.

The L'Evangile was rated 96 points by Parker.  Aromas of dried rose petals, potpourri, acorn-fed meat, prosciutto, sugar cane, and cedar box.  On the palate reinforcement of aromas along with a chocolate creaminess and a long finish.  This wine was judged to be the wine of the flight by participants.

The Latour à Pomerol was rated 94 points by Parker in 2009.  On the nose carnation, smoke, cigar box. More of a Medoc than a Pomerol feel on the palate. Short, hollow finish.  Definitely the least complex of the wines in this flight.

Flight II: Leoville Barton, Gloria, and Leoville Las Cases

The Leoville Barton was rated 90 points by Parker.  Soil, wet stones, mint and vanilla on the nose.  Rich, almost creamy on the palate.  One dimensional. Adynamic finish.  Turned out to be the least complex of the wines in the flight.

Chateau Gloria was rated 91 points by Parker.  On the nose bacon fat, roasted nuts, black olives.  On the palate mocha, late-arriving coffee.  Elegant. Great balance and acidity.

The Leoville Las Cases (95 Parker) had notes of carmelized chocolate pudding, fresh pine, spice box vanilla, and sweet tobacco.  This wine was concentrated, a "big boy." On the palate, stiff tannins with a rich, lush, long finish.  This wine is still in its youthful phase.  This was the wine of the flight.

Flight III: Chateau Montrose,  Chateau Cos d'Estournel, and Chateau Calon-Segur

The Montrose (96 Wine Spectator) exhibited traces of volatile acidity.  Vanilla, rust, and metal on the nose.  Leather and cassis on the palate.  Good balance and long finish.

The Cos d'Estournel (Parker 96) exhibited notes of black fruit.  This wine was rich and concentrated with black olives showing through on the palate.  Balanced with acidity and fruit retention. Wine of the flight.

The Calon-Segur (92 points Parker) had almost pungent blood and iron characteristics along with soy sauce, worcestershire sauce, cedar, and some vegetality.  Blood and minerality on the palate.  Medium finish.

Flight IV: Chateau La Lagune, Chateau Pichon Baron, and Chateau Pichon Lalande


The La Lagune (90 points Parker) showed red and black fruit, cassis, leather, and cedar on the nose. Fruit comes through on the palate in addition to tobacco and earth.  Round mouthfeel and medium finish.

The Pichon Baron (92 points Parker) had green notes, mushrooms and vanilla on the nose.  Good round mouthfeel. Good balance. Palate-coating with a great finish.

The primary characteristics of the Pichon Lalande (100 points Parker) were roasted pine nuts and coffee.  Lush creaminess. Well balanced. Very long finish. Wine of the flight and, in a close tussle with the L'Evangile, wine of the night.

Flight V: Chateau Haut-Brion and Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion


The Haut-Brion (94 points Parker) was, disappointingly, maderized.

The 1982 La Mission Haut-Brion had been awarded 96 points by Robert Parker.  In our tasting we detected notes of mushrooms, earth, tobacco, molasses, and dried stewed fruits.  Layered, complex, with a long finish.

White and Sauternes Flight: Chateau Laville Haut-Brion and Chateau d'Yquem

The Laville Haut-Brion had notes of crushed pineapple, ocean air, boat exhaust, linseed oil and a certain waxiness.  On the palate freshness, gasoline, smoked lychees, stony minerality, volcanic ash.  Dry, balanced finish.  For us, a vino de meditazione.

The d'Yquem (92 points Parker) showed talcum powder, botrytis, creme brulee, cinnamon, and sweet white flowers along with hazelnut, almonds, coconut and lemon.  On the palate nutty and rich. Dry, long finish.

All in all it was a wonderful evening and as we went into the post-tasting dinner, we did so with a sense of accomplishment, a sense of having "crossed over to the promised land" and surviving to tell the tale.

Towards a Unitary Wine Drinking Architecture

With regional/commune wine-production centers, and local foods that are perfectly matched to these wines, the Mediterranean countries of France, Italy, and Spain have long stood as the epitomization of national wine culture.  In her book French Wine Drinking Culture ..., Marion Demoisser details a number of changes in French wine production and consumption which have had material, deleterious effects on the perceived "strong national wine drinking culture."  These forces are not unique to France, as both Spain and Italy are experiencing generational change in the choice and place of drinks.  I posit that these tectonic changes are a forcing function for a decline in the national wine drinking culture.

According to Demoisser, French wine consumption stood at 170 liters per capita on the eve of WWII but had fallen to 54.8 liters by 2007 (it was 45.23 liters per capita at the end of 2009, the last year for which data are available), an almost 300% decline in a period wherein the population increased by 48%.  This decline is attributable to a number of factors: (i) In 1980, 50.7% of the population drank wine on a daily basis compared to only 20.7% in 2005; (ii) wine has been replaced by water and other beverages in many instances as the liquid accompaniment to meals; (iii) a government clampdown on drinking and driving; (iv) an increased focus on healthy living, especially among the younger generation; and (v) an increase in beer consumption among young people.

Along with the reduction in consumption, France has seen changes in the profile of wine drinkers as well as in the types of wine being consumed.  Prior to 1970, the bulk of the wine being consumed was Vin de Pays and it was being drunk primarily by the urban and working poor.  In recent years AOC wines have been consumed in greater volume while the "plonk" wines have been on a steady downward slide.  AOC wine production went from 15,535 hectoliters in 1994-1995 to 17,536 hectoliters in 2005-2006.

In contrast to the negative forces highlighted above, the country has experienced, and,in some cases, continue to experience, a number of "new architecture" forces.  According to Demoisser, France has seen, among others: (i) a post WWII economic transformation and the emergence of a new middle class; (ii) a flight from villages to towns; (iii) transformation of the French diet and the rise of the "chef king"; (iv) acceptance of the bourgeois model of wine drinking as "moderate, ritualized, and status-oriented" as opposed to the prior working-class model; (v) the rise of wine as a focus of consumption rather than an accompaniment to a meal; (vi) the birth of wine tourism; and (vii) a proliferation of clubs, activities and discourses devoted to wine.

These opposing forces have seen the demise of wine as a staple of the French diet and "its rise as a cultural and aesthetic object" and the culture transitioning from a perception of ubiquitous wine knowledge to a three-tiered society with (i) 38% of the population (2005 figures) self-identifying as non-wine-drinkers; (ii) a middle grouping --- which she characterizes as the "wandering drinker" -- which has limited knowledge and only drinks occasionally; and (iii) the wine lover.  A large number of activities, media, and locales have sprung up to meet the needs of the wine lover resulting in a situation where, in France, "... there have never been so many wine lovers with such a prolific knowledge of wine."

I posit that the architecture described by Demoisser as the new French reality already exists in the US.  As pointed out in my most recent post, 90% of the wine in the US is drunk by 20% of the population and we have about 44 million "wandering drinkers."  There are a wide range of wine-related activities available for the initiated in both wine- and non-wine- producing areas and the opportunities for dialogue with like-minded individuals are endless.  The ease of interaction and communication with self-professed and acclaimed experts, flying winemakers, and oenologists allows the wine lover to readily expand his/her base of knowledge and create a wider chasm between that group and the wandering drinker.

I posit that this architecture will be the dominant wine drinking architecture for the foreseeable future given the technologies available today and the ease of transit between nations.  The architecture will drive dialogue with like-minded people wherever they are and will increase the challenge of wine marketers as they strive to bring new wine drinkers aboard.