A proposal for forestalling the Balkanization of Cava

DO Cava and "renegade" producers seeking to disassociate from a wounded brand are at the beginning of a journey that potentially leads to disaster for all involved. I propose an approach for disaster-avoidance.

There are two models for producer success in the wine world: (i) be a producer in a well-known wine region (not a guarantee for success but gets your feet in the door) or (ii) build a product brand (of course one can build a brand in an established region -- DRC in Burgundy, for example).

In the first instance, I can point to famous regions such as Burgundy and Piedmont (known for their terroir-based, varietal wines), Bordeaux (known for its stellar Cab- and Merlot-based blends), Tokaj (kingly sweet wines), and Champagne (the pinnacle of sparkling wines). In the second instance, I can point to wineries such as Sassaica, Ornellaia, and Grattamacco which downgraded to a regional classification so that they could make the quality and style of wine that they wanted to. They ultimately were successful and built their individual brands. But, also, because they were located in Bolgheri, they were eventually able to elevate that region also.

For the most part, recent producer activity has revolved around branding your terroir/style first and then using that as a lever with which to lift all boats. In the sparkling wine space we see the region-promotion efforts of the Franciacorta Consorzio; we see the Piedmont sparkling wine producers coming together under the Alta Langa banner; and we see the British sparkling wine producers casting about for an umbrella name under which they can launch their assault on Champagne.

Within the context of the foregoing discussion, then, the fractured approach being undertaken by the various Cava factions will only lead to Balkanization of the region. The Corpinnet group, for example, will be focused on building a brand, an exercise which has to first tie that brand to a territory then, subsequently, tie that construct to quality. That would take a lot of time and money; and with no guarantee of success.

Balkanization of Cava

I propose herein a more holistic approach. First, it is crazy to have a single brand named Cava covering sparkling wine made all over the country. The regional variation in quality, grapes used, etc., are not a recipe for customer retention. Rather, I propose that Spanish sparkling wine made outside of a core zone be associated with the region wherein it is made. This occurs in France where sparkling wine made outside of Champagne is called Crémant (Crémant de Bordeaux, for example). There are a fixed set of quality requirements under which these wines are made but grape variet(ies)y are not uniform. I propose that the word Cava remain associated with these non-core sparkling wines (Cava del Rioja, for example).

I then look at Champagne for the model for the organization of the central sparkling wine area. In that the name Cava would now be associated with the non-core zones, a new name would have to be surfaced; and it probably should be a known geographic area.

There would be sub-zones within the defined area and named vineyards within those sub-zones. Sub-zones would be demarcated based on soil and/or climate characteristics but the production characteristics would be similar across the region. Further, the production requirements within the core zone would be stricter than would be the case for the outlying areas.

If a single producer -- or a group of producers -- wanted to establish higher standards, they would be free to do so; and could tout that in their marketing materials. They would not, however, be allowed to place any group-specific material on the label.

DO Cava and the producers are playing "small ball" here. The problem confronting them requires a "big-picture" solution before everyone gets locked into intractable positions. The solution I have proposed here may mean decentralization of the sparkling wine authority down to the regional DOs -- loss of power for DO Cava -- but it would be in furtherance of a good cause.

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