Fratelli Alessandria and G.B. Burlotto: The Renaissance of Verduno and Monvigliero

The Antonio Galloni celebration of Barolo is held annually in New York City and consists of (i) a gala dinner and (ii) a Masterclass tasting of 15 Barolos on the day after the dinner. This year's Masterclass was titled 2013 Barolo: Sublime Finesse and Elegance and featured 15 of the region's top producers discussing, in turn, their estate's 2013 vintage.

The wines were presented in flights and I will report on them in that fashion over a number of posts. I begin with the flight titled The Renaissance of Verduno and Monvigliero. This flight featured 2013 Monviglieros from Fratelli Alessandria and G.B. Burlotto presented by Vittore Alessandria and Fabio Alessandria, respectively.

Verduno
G.B. Burlotto was founded by Ignacio Burlotto and his nephew -- Giovanni Battista (G.B.) Burlotto -- was the winemaker from that time until his death in 1927. G.B. had a storied career as a winemaker and elevated the stature of both the estate and the town of Verduno as a result:

• He was a pioneer in the sale of Barolo wine in bottles rather than in casks or demijohns as was the order of the day.
• He was the official supplier of wines to the Royal House of savoy.
• He was the official supplier of wine to the Duke of Abruzzo's Arctic expedition.
• He was focused on wine quality and won many a gold medal as a result.

(According to North Berkeley Imports, in the 1870s, "... Verduno was the center of Barolo winemaking ... internationally recognized as the face of Barolo and sought out by collectors across the European continent.")

In the years following G.B.'s death, the farm lost its luster; as did Verduno. But Verduno has come to the fore again (a renaissance, according to North Berkely Imports) thanks in large part to the winemaking and marketing efforts of Fabio Alessandria, the great-great-grandson of Giovanni and the brothers Gian Battista and Alessandro (and Alessandro's son Vittore) of Fratelli Alessandria who, together, "are guiding the wines of Verduno back to the heights they once held."

Monvigliero
Verduno is the northernmost of the Barolo sub-zones and Monvigliero, its most famous cru, is one of its most northern vineyards. The River Tanaro runs through the cru and affects its microclimate as the warmth of the summer is mitigated by a cooling breeze that flows along its valley during the nights. This breeze contributes to a significant diurnal temperature variation, a variation that is important for the characteristics of the wine: perfect maturity of fine, gentle tannins. (IDTT 246, Levi Dalton interview of Fabio). For a fuller description of the Monvigliero cru, please visit here.

Burlotto Monvigliero
The grapes for the Monvigliero are drawn from a 2-ha, limestone-rich, south-facing plot whose vines are, on avearge, 45 years old. The grapes are not de-stemmed. They are gently foot-trod (allowing extraction of tannins without the green tannins and aromas that would result from rough handling of the stems) and fermented in open-top fermenters with indigenous yeasts. The grapes are macerated on the skins for 40 to 60 days, depending on vintage, with a submerged cap.

The skins are gently pressed vat-side upon completion of the maceration process and the first-press juice is added to the wine. The free-run and first-press wine are transferred to large wooden caks (33 to 60 Hl) for malolactic fermentation. Malolactic fermentation is long and slow as no attempt is made to help it along.

The Monvigliero is aged for an average of 24 months with as little racking as possible being done over the course of the process. The wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered and allowed further aging in bottle before being released to the market.

Fratelli Alessandria Monvigliero
Fratelli Alessandria owns 1.3 ha of the Monvigliero cru. This south-southwest wedge has a near-vertical slope at elevations ranging between 250 and 320 m. The 30-year-old vines are pruned Guyot at 4500 vines/ha.

The grapes are hand-harvested and then subjected to a 15+-day wild yeast fermentation with some post-fermentation maceration. The wines then spend 3 years in 20- or 30-hl Slavonian and French oak casks, 2 months in stainless steel tanks, and 6 months in bottle before being released for sale.

The Wines
These wines were both true to the cru: elegance and finesse. The Fratelli Alessandria showed delicate roses and violets along with dark herbs. Cherries and strawberries accompanying a tamarind flavor. Long finish. The Burlotto also showed delicate roses on the nose but with a hint of licorice. Elegant cherry on the palate along with retreating tamarind, strawberry, and black olives. Elegant, lengthy finish.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme