Today I read a post from burgundy-report.com titled The Louis Vuittonification of Burgundy (I love the title. It is so evocative) wherein the author is decrying the -- Burgundization of Burgundy? The author described some of the issues mentioned in the Galloni podcast but went even further. I have taken the liberty of summarizing the author's findings and placing it into a table juxtaposed with Galloni's perception of Burgundy and the areas where Barolo was becoming like Burgundy.
The question that arises is whether the full list of issues raised by the author presents a potential roadmap of where Barolo is headed. If Galloni sees Barolo becoming more like Burgundy, is this a path that is in Barolo's future? I hope not.
| Burgundy* | Barolo* | The Louis Vuittonification of Burgundy** |
| Inaccessible producers | Potential for this situation to develop | More and more doors being closed to the casual visitor |
| Big-Money investors | Potential future | |
| Expensive wines | Getting there | Step-change in global pricing since 2005 |
| Each vintage more ink being spilled on the cost of the wines than what is in the bottle | ||
| Bulk wine prices tracking the increases of the top labels | ||
| Many restaurants replacing 2nd and third level wines with 4th tier wines due to costs | ||
| Imbalance where Village wines from Cote de Nuits cost more than great 1er Cru from Cote de Beaunes | ||
| Land pricing and inheritance costs working their way through to the price of wine | ||
| Range of wines being offered to taste shrinking as Grand Cru bottles become too expensive to open | ||
| *The Burgundization of Barolo (On the Wine Trail in Italy) | ||
| **The Louis Vuittonification of Burgundy (burgundy-report.com) |
©Wine -- Mise en abyme
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