- Developments in viticulture and oenology
- Climate change
- A resurgence of the perennial value of indigenous varieties
- A market eager to reward niche identities.
I have been providing brief overviews of each of these regions, as well as detailing the reason(s) why they are considered emergent. I continue herein with details on the region Sierra de Gredos.
Sierra de Gredos is a mountainous wine growing region. located about 100 km west of Madrid, which has been gaining attention due to old Garnacha vines planted at elevations ranging between 600 and 1200m. The region, which currently is not a specified D.O., spreads across the provinces of Avila (VdT Cyl), Madrid (D.O. Viños de Madrid), and Toledo (D.O. Méntrida) but falls within the regulatory framework of Viños de la Tierra de Castilla y León.
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| Sierra de Gredos circled in red. Modification of Quentin Sadler map sourced from catavino.net |
This wine area was previously known for its production of bulk wine with transition to the production of quality inhibited by (David Furer, Sommelier International, 3/23/18):
- Its relative invisibility, even to knowledgeable wine professionals
- It had only been established as a wine production zone since the 1990s
- Growth had been stunted by economic difficulties, beginning with the financial crisis of 2008
- Lack of an official designation.
Grape growing is centered around three valleys:
- Valle de Alberche
- Slightly hotter and drier than the rest of Sierra de Gredo
- Dominated by granitic sand
- The western portion imparts the most mountain influence to the grapes due to altitude, diurnal variation, and shadowing from rains
- The noted wine village of Cebreros is located within this valley
- Valle Alto Alberche
- Extremely continental
- Very cold at nights
- Higher in elevation; as much as 1200 m
- Valle de Tiéter
- Rainier
- Mediterranean
- Elevations up to 1000 m.
In general, the climate can be characterized as warm continental. Soils are mainly granitic and sandy with some slate around the village of Cebreros in Avila province.
The primary varieties grown in the area are Garnacha (red) and Albillo Real (white). Garnacha especially thrives in the higher altitudes and northern exposures that exist in villages such as El Tiemblo and Peña Caballera and produces wines that are more acidic and tannic than similar varieties grown in the south of France and SE Australia. The difference in structure is a result of the higher elevation and nutrient-poor soils in Sierra de Gredos. The indigenous Albillo Real is farmed organically and produces wines that exhibit structure and a salty minerality and, when fully ripe, a Viognier-like honeyed, floral character.
Vinification is conducted in either large oak barrels or clay jars (tinajas) using natural yeasts and very little sulphur. Garnacha wines are subjected to lengthy maceration on the skins, sometimes lasting up to as much as 60 days.
The Sierra de Gredos Garnachas have been described as Burgundian and less extracted and more ethereal than the majority of Spanish Garnachas. Lettie Teague, in describing the wines of Commado G (a producer from the region) said it was "like meeting Burgundy and Rhone Valley in high altitude Spain."
Why Sierra de Gredos as an emergent region? Natasha Hughes MW, sees many of Spain's younger winemakers turning "... to the creation of fresher, more aromatic wines that are designed to reveal their terroir rather than their cooperage" and "one of the areas spearheading the insurrection is the Sierra de Gredos" where "a treasure trove of old vines" are being adapted "to the production of complex, refined wines."
In addition (Jancis Robinson):
- The region is proximate to Madrid
- There is a flowering of newcomer producers in a region that had heretofore been dominated by Cooperatives
- High quality juice is produced from the older vines
- The stylistic profile of the delicate Garnachas produced in the region is attractive to discerning consumers.
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The regions identified as emergent by Torres in his initial article are:
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