Esca grapevine trunk disease: History, economic impact, monitoring and management

Grapevine trunk diseases (GTDs)  -- caused by bacterial and/or fungal pathogens -- occur worldwide and, once established in the vineyard, are (i) incurable and (ii) new infections are difficult to control (Morris). Rosace, et al., see these diseases as representing "an emerging and significant problem for Italian vineyards. Among the most common in many viticultural areas in the world and in Europe is esca."

My 2017 report on esca focused on the Guyot-Poussard training system (as promoted by Siminot and Sirch), one of the few preventative approaches in the market at that time. A more comprehensive approach to esca disease management and control has since been advanced. I examine that approach in this post.

Esca History

According to Mugnai, et al., references to esca-like symptoms can be found in several Greek and Latin texts but more precise descriptions can be found in medieval works:

• Kitab al-Felahah by Ibn al-Awani, (a Spanish Muslim who lived in Seville at the end of the 12th century)
• Opus Ruralasium Commodorum by Pietro di Crescenzi (born in Bologna around 1233).

This disease was first successfully controlled in 1903 when sodium arsenite showed its ability to limit esca and other wood diseases. This product was so successful that research on esca essentially came to a halt in 1920.

The first scientific studies on esca were conducted in France and were focused on a disease then known as apoplexy, or folletage, where affected grapevines suddenly withered and did not resume growth thereafter. In 1905, a researcher named Ravaz discovered that a disease with similar symptoms was already known in the region of Smyrna and was called "iska" therein. In the same timeframe, Pierre Viola was informed that folletage was also familiar to the grapegrowers in Squinzana in the Italian province of Lecce; they called it esca. Viola proposed that folletage/apoplexy be heretofore called esca.

In 1926, Viola presented his list of esca symptoms. With the exception of "tiger stripes" all of his indications were eventually reassigned to other diseases. 

The accepted symptology of esca that resulted from this first wave of research was wood rot, apoplexy, and chlorosis and necrosis of the leaves. This result was achieved by gradually reducing a superfluity of initial proposed symptoms (Surico).

As mentioned previously, the efficacy of sodium arsenite vis a vis esca had rendered research on the disease moot in the post-1920 period. This changed in 1980 when talk of a potential ban on sodium arsenite began in earnest. The product was deemed to be highly toxic and carcinogenic and was eventually banned in France in 2001 and the rest of Europe in 2003.

The loss of this key anti-esca tool led to second wave (1980 - 2000) of research into the disease. This second wave "has led to a better understanding of the internal symptoms of esca and the etiology of the disease" (Surico). It was determined that:

• The vascular symptoms are directly attributable to the fungi Phaeoacremonium aleophilium and Phaeomoniella chlamydospora
• The main agent that causes woodrot of grapevine is the basidiomycete Formitiporia mediterraneo.

The first international workshop on esca (held in Siena in 1999) led to the formation of new hypotheses on the disease. These hypotheses are illustrated in the chart below.

The current context for esca is shown in the chart below.

Symptoms appear on mature grapevines in vineyards (Úrbanz-Torres, et al.):

• First, symptoms appear as dark red (red cultivars) or yellow (white cultivars) stripes on leaves. These eventually die and become necrotic.
• As the disease progresses, it causes:
• Gray to dark-brown speckling of berries, known as "black measles"
• Sudden wilting of the vines, including shriveling of the fruit that normally occurs in summer and is known as "vine apoplexy"
• A dieback of the entire grapevine.

"Esca vascular symptoms include primarily a white rot characterized by a yellowish spongy mass of wood, usually in the center of the trunk and/or cordons, which can be observed alone or along with dark-brown to black spots in the xylem vessels" (Úrbanz-Torres, et al.).

Economic Impact of Esca

According to Jane Anson, vineyards across Europe has been losing 10 - 20% of their vines to Esca. In France, 11% of total grapevines have been rendered non-productive by esca while Spain saw its affected vineyards increase from 1.8% to 10.5% between 2003 and 2007. The incidence of infection among Central and Southern Italy's older vineyards ranges between 60% and 80% (Body).

Esca Management and Control

Guyot-Poussard Training System
The principle behind the G-P pruning system (or soft pruning, as it is called in some circles) is simple: If pruning wounds are a gateway for pathogen entry into the vine, then let us seek to reduce the number and severity of those wounds. The hypothesis is that the probability of new infections would decline with a reduction in the number and size of pruning wounds.

The soft-pruning method was adopted by Lafon from a training system used in France in the early 20th century and eventually renamed Guyot-Poussard. It has been further refined and evangelized by the Italian duo of Simonit and Sirch who have traveled around the world preaching the benefits of the approach and who train practitioners of the system at their school in Italy.

The system uses small cuts in the upper portions of the cordon to promote continuous horizontal development of adjacent perennial spurs. The small cuts reduce the size of wound desiccation, minimizes the inward-facing size of the desiccation, and, through their placement on the upper part of the structure, leaves unobstructed channels at the lower part of the established structure. The system structure is depicted in the figure below.

Illustration of the Guyot-Poussard pruning system.
Note the pruning cuts st the top of the cordon
allowing the free flow of sap along the bottom
portion of the cordon (Source:marceaubourdarias.fr)

According to Infowine, this system:

• Reduces the probability of new GTD infections
• Promotes more homogenous development of phenological stages
• Promotes more balanced vegetative growth and more balanced ripening.

A 2016 study of the system as applied in a German vineyard has shown that:

• Activities such as shoot removal are more extensive and important in maintenance of the training system
• Leaf removal at flowering and fruit set requires less manpower
• A higher amount of work is required in the early years
• G-P pruning 37.7 hours/ha while traditional takes about 23 hours/ha
• Transition from a traditional to a G-P pruning system will take several years
• G-P a demanding pruning method and requires significant training before implementation.

According to Bowman, Simonit and Sirch assert that their approach will "double the life of a vineyard and dramatically reduce the incidence of grapevine trunk diseases." Bowman goes on to say that there is no scientific evidence as regards claims about sap flow but that a 2006 study by Geoffrion and Renaudin showed a 50% reduction in Esca-affected vines in G-P-pruned vines when compared to traditional Guyot-pruned vines.

G-P a la Simonit and Sirch has been implemented in a number of high-profile vineyards to include Domaine Leroy, Ornellaia, Chateau Latour, Haut-Bailly, and Louis Roederer. I have previously mentioned Tenuta du Trinoro and Barboursville Vineyards. According to Delbecque, 60% of the producers in the Sancerrois vineyard have trained their employees in this method while 80% have at least one person competent in this approach.

This approach, however, has been perceived to be too narrow in scope and a more comprehensive model of monitoring and management has been advanced.

Comprehensive Monitoring and Management

Managing the disease requires, firstly, a clear understanding of its parameters. According to Rosace, et al.:

• The disease is spread by spores which can be transported by wind, water splashes, and insect vectors
• Spores can end up on a plant's open wounds (pruning cuts or wounds caused by severe weather), thus spreading the disease in the vineyard (One of the characteristics of traditional pruning systems is numerous large pruning wounds in the grapevine trunk with the potential for (i) intrusion of desiccated material into the interior of the trunk -- and the interruption of sap flow therein -- and (ii) serving as the infection pathway for GTD fungi (Infowine)).
• Fungi can remain dormant in plants for years 
• Symptoms can appear in the vineyard inconsistently

Monitoring and managing the disease in the vineyard is, therefore, a complicated issue which is well-served by an integrated approach (Rosace, et al.):

• Good agricultural practices -- helps to prevent infections of the trunk by pathogenic fungi
• Correct planting of new vines
• Choosing the right pruning methods and times
• Disinfecting the tools used during pruning activities on diseased plants
• Correctly managing pruning residues, soil, and irrigation
• Preventive practices 
• Use of protective products on pruning wounds
• Pruning sealers
• (bio)fungicides (In recent years fungi of the genus Trichoderma have become popular in protecting wounds)
• Interventions for recovering infected plants
• In the case of diseased plants, curetage has led to positive and significant results in the case of diseased plants
• Removal of diseased wood to save the vine
• Ancient practice
• Pollarding
• Removing fractions of the infected plant until the healthy wood is found.

According to Monis, it is best to prune as late in the season as possible because the vine is more active in the spring and will heal faster. In addition, most fungal trunk disease pathogens release their spores during the rainy seasson thus there will be proportionally fewer spores around in the Spring. Monis also recommends avoiding large pruning wounds, cutting close to the trunk, and pruning after long periods of rain.

Bibliography

Jane Anson, Anson on Thursday: The Prada of Vineyard Pruning, Decanter, 12/10/2015.

Nicolas Body, Esca history and economic impact, alltech.com, 8/8/2019.

Antonio Graniti, et al., Esca of Grapevine: A Disease Complex or a Complex of Diseases, Phytopathologia, 39(1), September 2006.

Judith Monis, Ph.D, Vineyard Fungal Trunk Diseases: Prevention and Control, thegrapevinemagazine.net.

L. Mugnai, A. Graniti, G. Surico, Esca (Black measles) and Brown Wood-Streaking: Two Old and Elusive Diseases of Grapevines, Plant Disease, Vol. 83, No. 5, 1999.

Maria Chiara Rosace, Sara Legler, Vittorio Rossi, An increasing threat to Italian vineyards: Pathogenic fungi and esca complex, 1/15/21, sincerely.it.

Guiseppe Surico, Towards a redefinition of the diseases within the esca complex of grapevines, Phytopathologia Mediterranean, 2009 (48), pp. 5 - 10.

J.R. Úrbaz-Torres, et al., Grapevine Trunk Diseases in British Columbia: Incidence and Characterization of the Fungal Pathogens Associated with Esca and Petri Diseases of Grapevine, Plant Disease, 98(4), April 2014.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Emergent Spanish wine regions: Jumilla

Jumilla is a 19,000 ha DO in Murcia, a small region on the coast of southeast Spain. Its specialty is wines made from the Monastrell variety (80% of the region's plantings).

Jumilla DO within the broader Murcia wine region. Red oval
highlights Jumilla color scheme (Source: vineyards.som)

The climate here is arid and continental with drought always a threat. When the rains do come, they are very heavy and pose a threat to blossoms and ripening grapes. An elevated central plateau (400 - 800 m elevation) moderates the heat somewhat.

The landscape is composed of wide valleys and plains with sandy or loamy soils prevalent. The volume of lime in the soil is a key aid in moisture retention.

Most grapes are planted on the mountain-enclosed plateau. Ninety-four percent of the grapes are organic.

Why Jumilla as an Emergent Region?
Jumilla has re-invented itself as a producer of modern, fruity red, white, and Rosé wines. Improved vineyard management, and outside investment in new equipment from industry heavyweights in other Spanish regions, have led to a remarkable increase in wine quality. The result is a new generation of "characterful" wines, some organic, and the majority red, in which the rediscovered Monastrell grape is showing promising results in the hands of skilled winemakers.

******************************************************************************************************

The regions identified as emergent by Torres in his initial article are:

• Balearic Islands
• Utiel-Requena DO
• Galicia
• Bierzo
• The Canary Islands
• Penedès
• Alicante
• Empordà
• Jumilla
• Sierra de Gredos
• Arribes DO
• Aragon

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Emergent Spanish wine regions: Emporda

Emporda is another of the Torres-identified "emergent" Spanish wine regions.

La Costa Brava, the coastline that runs along Spain's northeastern shore, is best known for its beaches and resorts and less so for the DO Empordà that lies just inland of it. This lack of identity was so palpable that the DO appended the coastline's name to its own in order to elevate its visibility. The name is thus, officially, Empordà-Costa Brava. All of 1826 ha, Empordà is one of Spain's smallest DOs. It gained its classification in 1972.

DO Empordà

The climate in the DO is Mediterranean but the strong Tramontana winds, while aiding in disease- and frost-prevention, can inflict damage on the fruit during the growing season. Average annual rainfall is 600 mm.

The main soil types are sand, slate, and decomposed gravel with the majority being of a sandy texture and with low organic material content. Alluvial soils predominate in the plain while slate and granite predominate in the mountains and mountainsides. Altitudes range from 0 to 260 m.

A majority of vines are in excess of 30-years old and are planted at altitudes of 200m. The bulk of the plantings are Macabeo, Garnacha Blanca, Garnacha Tinta, and Cariñena, with a growing presence of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Merlot. Sixty percent of the region's wines are red, 17% Rosé, 19% white, and 4% dessert.

The area has traditionally been known for a heavy, sweet red wine, made from sun-dried Garnacha grapes, and a Carignan-based Rosé. Recently, however, it has gained a reputation for planting a wide range of local and international varieties and it is their young red wines that are garnering fame for their "expressiveness and surprising quality."

Why Empordà as an Emerging Region?
According to Decanter:

A bunch of young, highly motivated winemakers, fresh from their oenology studies, are busy remaking the ancient terraces and dry stone walls, resurrecting old vines -- principally Garnatxa and Carinyena -- and planting new ones. Their wines have bags of character and a strong sense of place, marked by the Mediterranean and given a good dose of tough love by the Tramontana winds that blast across the mountains from the north stressing and airing the vines in equal measure."

 According to Laura Masramon (lauramasramon.com):

In the 1990s, a group of young wine experts … returned to the farms. Their grandfathers had preserved very old vines, some of which are over a hundred years old. The new generation used these vines and their expertise to create unique, authentic, wine … the young enologists seek to revive the regional varieties to the point of mastering them and understanding them in depth. Thus they obtain wines that express the terroir of the Empordà. They are modern wines but at the same time speak to us of those 2700 years of history.

******************************************************************************************************

The regions identified as emergent by Torres in his initial article are:

• Balearic Islands
• Utiel-Requena DO
• Galicia
• Bierzo
• The Canary Islands
• Penedès
• Alicante
• Empordà
• Jumilla
• Sierra de Gredos
• Arribes DO
• Aragon

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

"Emergent" Spanish wine regions: The Canary Islands

The Canary Islands is a group of islands 60 kilometers off the coast of Morocco (at its closest point) which, together, comprise the southernmost of Spain's autonomous regions. These islands were formed as a result of a mantle plume hotspot acting on the African plate as it wends its way to Morocco. The easternmost island -- Lanzarote -- emerged from the sea 20 million years ago while Hierro, the westernmost, was formed only 1 million years ago.

Source: seriouseats.com

The islands are characterized by rugged terrain, a hot and humid climate, potential volcanic activity, and extreme winds. It is one of the most extreme winemaking regions in all of Spain. The image below shows the stone walls which have been erected to guard vines against those extreme winds.

Rock walls protecting the vines from the hot African winds
(Source: cellartours.com)

Counterbalancing those challenges, however, are the abundance of rich volcanic soil and extremely old vines. The Phylloxera louse that ravaged European vineyards never reached the islands so many of the vines there are one hundred years+ old.

Six of the seven islands have been awarded DOs, with Fuerteventura the exception. With the exception of Tenerife, which has five DO zones, the DO in each case is island-wide.

Fully 40% of the agricultural land in the islands is taken up with viticulture and white grapes are the majority. White grapes include Malvasia, Listan Blanco, Gual, Verdello, Forastera, and Albillo, among others. The red grapes are Listan Negro, Negramoll, Tintilla, and Baboso.

Tenerife
Tenerife is the largest island in the Canary Island archipelago. It is dominated by El Teide, at 3,718 m (12,200 feet), the tallest mountain in Spain.

Tenerife's climate is tropical but is moderated by the mountain and the moisture-laden clouds brought to the area by the trade winds. These clouds are blocked by the mountain, depositing the moisture on its northern face and foothills. Temperatures are mild in the north while the south registers little or no rain and intense heat.

Soils are volcanic, with ash and volcanic rock, and a wealth of organic matter, in the north while the south features jable (a white volcanic ash) and clay sandy soils with good water-holding capacity.

Why the Canary Islands as an Emergent Region?
The region is blessed with ungrafted plants and this, combined with the mineral-rich volcanic soil and mountain elevations, lends itself to the production of dry, acid-driven white wines.

******************************************************************************************************

The regions identified as emergent by Torres in his initial article are:

• Balearic Islands
• Utiel-Requena DO
• Galicia
• Bierzo
• The Canary Islands
• Penedès
• Alicante
• Empordà
• Jumilla
• Sierra de Gredos
• Arribes DO
• Aragon

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Emergent Spanish wine regions: Penedès DO

Penedès DO straddles both the Barcelona and Tarragona provinces.

Map of Penedes DO (Source: Penedes DO)

The region is wide and open, covering, as it does, a long strip of land between the sea and the mountains. It is divided into three distinct zones (see map above):

• Penedès Superior -- the land near the inland mountain range; higher rainfall and larger contrasts between minimum and maximum temperatures; the soil is a mix of limestone, sand, and clay.
• Penedès Marítime -- the land between the sea and the coastal hills. The climate here is a mild Mediterranean (due to its proximity to the sea) and the soil is a mix of limestone, sand, and clay.
• Penedès Central -- the plain between Superior and Marítime. The climate is a mix of the two and the soil has the same composition.

The Tramonta wind blows in from France in the winter but is diminished by the Montserrat Range.

White grape varieties are dominant with 4/5ths of the 15,200 ha devoted to their plantings. The white grapes are Xarel.lo (the most widely planted with 7000 ha under vine), Macabeu, Parellada, Chardonnay, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc. Red varieties include Garnatxa, Monastrel, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Samó, and Ull de Llebre.

Penedès is known for its still wine and its Cavas. In the case of the still wines, most are drunk in the year after bottling. The Cava producers have upped their game by introducing a category (2014) called Classic Penedès which covers traditional and ancestral Cava production with a requirement of 100% organic, 100% Penedès, and 100% Reserva (minimum 15 months aging).

Why Penedès as an Emergent Wine Region?
The region is at the forefront of moving vineyards to organic and biodynamic farming. Beyond that it is not clear why Torres positioned it as an emergent region. Cava has been made there for a while as, have solid white wines. Red wines are ascendant but they are not readily available outside the region. Penedès DO is engaged in the battle for Cava supremacy but that is a battle to carve up an existing cake and I see nothing therein which is "emergent" level.

Parés Baltà Hisenda Miret 2017: A wine from this Emergent Region

Vines were first planted in the area that surrounds the winery back in 1790. Current family ownership stretches back to 1978 when Mr Joan Cuisine took control of the winery.

The enterprise controls five vineyards but the one of interest to us is Finca Cal Miret in the town of Sant Martí Sarroca. The vines are resident on deep, brown agrillaceous limestone soils at elevations ranging between 298 and 325 m and inclines of between 5 and 15%. Varieties planted include Garnatxa, Xarel.lo, Macabeu, Syrah, Merlot, and Muscat.

All of the Parés Baltà vineyards are Demeter-certified biodynamic. Initial studies began in 2010, with the first biodynamic treatments produced, and applied, in 2011. Vineyards are cultivated without the use of herbicides, pesticides, or fertilizers. Sheep provide fertilization material to the vineyards in the period following the harvest. The estate practices green pruning -- to increase air circulation and sun exposure -- and green harvesting -- to increase concentration and character in the remaining grapes.

Hisenda Miret is a 100% Garnatxa wine which is fermented in stainless steel for 3 weeks with thrice-daily punchdowns. The wine is aged for 5 months in new and 2-year-old French oak barrels.

The 2017 edition of this wine showed intense red fruit and a florality out of the glass. It jumps out at you. Complex. The intensity carries through to the palate. The tannin makes its presence felt, as does the acidity. Lengthy finish. I loved this wine.

******************************************************************************************************

The regions identified as emergent by Torres in his initial article are:

• Balearic Islands
• Utiel-Requena DO
• Galicia
• Bierzo
• The Canary Islands
• Penedès
• Alicante
• Empordà
• Jumilla
• Sierra de Gredos
• Arribes DO
• Aragon

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

"Emergent" Spanish wine regions and the causal factors

Pedro Ballesteros Torres, in a 2/2/18 Decanter article on Spanish wine trends, wrote about newly emergent wine regions which have become so propelled by the aggregated effects of:

• Developments in viticulture and oenology
• Climate change
• A resurgence of the perennial value of indigenous varieties
• A market eager to reward niche identities.

The regions identified by Torres as emergent are illustrated in the map below.

Emergent Spanish wine regions

I undertook some research to determine why these regions should be considered emergent and summarize my findings herein.

Bierzo DO

Bierzo is a small, rural, remote, ancient region sited within the boundaries of the autonomous region of Castillo Y Leon

Why Bierzo DO as an Emergent Region?
One commentator sees the region's mineral-rich slate soil, continental climate, and intrepid winemakers combining to create some "truly memorable" red wines.

According to Michael Schacter, Mencia has been the fire for the fuel that is engulfing Bierzo.

Another commentator: "Bluntly stated, Bierzo is arguably Spain's most exciting wine region, where you can trade in the country's big-bodied, sometimes fiercely tannic Tempranillos and Garnachas for wines with exotic aromas, alluring flavor profiles and undeniable style."

Galicia

Located in the northwest portion of the Iberian penninsula, Galicia is known for cool, moderate temperatures and green, lush, rolling hills. Its five official DOs (Ribeiro, Ribeira Sacra, Monterrei, Valdeorras, and Rias Baixas) are known for crisp, aromatic white wines from Albarino, Loureiro, Torrontes, Godello, Caiño Blanco, and Treixadura.

Why Galicia as an Emergent Region?
According to Jancis Robinson:

... Galicia has been increasingly valued by Spaniards as their one source of fine, often exotically scented, crisp white wines. The top Galician wines, usually made from the Albariño grape, are some of the most sought after in Spain and have a growing following around the world. 

In addition:

• The complex, age-worthy wines of Valdeorras made from the formerly ignored indigenous variety Godello has been grabbing attention outside the region and the notice of experts such as Jancis Robinson
• "Ribeiro is building a reputation for fresh, elevated Treixedura-driven wines made from grapes planted on hillside terraces."
• Spanishwinelover.com observes that: "... Ribeira Sacra seems to have ticked off all the boxes to become a top player: breathtaking landscapes with dizzying vineyards; a great array of local grape varieties in the process of being recovered; the complexity derived from the diversity of soils, exposure, and elevations; and a generation of terroir-driven, quality-focused producers determined to leave behind the attitudes and short-sighted views of yesteryear."

Utiel-Requena

Utiel-Requena, named after two neighboring towns, is one of the largest DOs in Valencia. Its 34,000 ha of vines, 6000 wine families, and 100 wineries are distributed among nine towns and are the main economic drivers in the region.

Why Utiel-Requena as an Emergent Region?
There are a number of reasons for the rising stock of the region:

• A new generation of winemakers
• In the early 2000s, Bobal was known for its "toothsome, juicy rosés." Since then, "serious attention to viticulture and subtle approaches to winemaking and blending to manage tannins has created wines with strong international appeal"(Decanter). "Production is much less aggressive, using macro- and micro-oxygenation, longer maturation periods, larger oak barrels, and a revival of tinajas (traditional clay jars for fermenting and ageing wine)." (imbibe.com)
• "Quality is prioritized over quantity, often employing sustainable, organic, and strictly rainfed viticulture, protrvtion of old vines, better canopy management, and close monitoring of phenolic maturation." (imbibe.com)
• "With the pressure of adapting to climate change, the demand for less interventionist viticulture, and the trend for fresher, crisper wines, Utiel-Requena with Bobal in its armory is guaranteed to keep making history" (Decanter).
• Wineries such as Bodega Mustiguillo, Dominio de la Vega, and Vina Memorias are pursuing the production of high-quality, terroir-driven wines. The co-operative Grupo Coviñas (which represents 3000 farmers covering 41% of DO land) "has become a very modern, quality-driven winery." (imbibe.com).

The Canary Islands
The Canary Islands is a group of islands 60 kilometers off the coast of Morocco (at its closest point) which, together, comprise the southernmost of Spain's autonomous regions. These islands were formed as a result of a mantle plume hotspot acting on the African plate as it wends its way to Morocco. The easternmost island -- Lanzarote -- emerged from the sea 20 million years ago while Hierro, the westernmost, was formed only 1 million years ago.

Why the Canary Islands as an Emergent Region?
The region is blessed with ungrafted plants and this, combined with the mineral-rich volcanic soil and mountain elevations, lends itself to the production of dry, acid-driven white wines.

Aragon

Aragon is a culturally significant autonomous Spanish community, and a DO, which hosts four other DOs within the confines of its border: Somontano to the north and Campo de Borja, Cariñena, and Calatayud to the south. The landscape covered by these DOs range from snow-capped peaks in the north, to parched plains in the south, and green hills in between.

Until the 1990s, large-scale farming and bulk-wine production were the heart of the Avignonese wine industry; a lot more of the wine is bottled today. Garnacha is the main cultivar planted but there is significant representation from Cariñena and Tempranillo. 

Why Aragon as an Emergent Region?

According to spanish-living.com:

Aragon has concentrated on improving its wine production techniques, selecting the grape varieties with an eye to quality and streamlining traditional cultivation methods. The progress that has been made is noteworthy, though more pronounced in some regions than in others.

The Balearic Islands
The Balearic Islands, the autonomous division of Spain located off its east coast, are, due to their excellent climate, sandy beaches, and natural beauty, one of Europe's most popular holiday destinations.

There are a number of reasons why these islands can be considered as emergent (Cellartours.com):

• International varieties now appear with increasing frequency across the islands' vineyards
• Fresher, more aromatic whites are now the mainstay of production
• A new generation of winemakers are bringing a sense of the importance of terroir to wines and winemaking and are utilizing their best sites to produce wines of class and quality
• The wines have moved beyond the local tourist market and have begun to make waves on the Spanish mainland.

Alicante
Alicante was awarded DO status in 1957. It is divided into two major zones and the area between:

• La Marina -- the northernmost region, sited in the coastal area between the towns of Denia and Calpe. The climate here is Mediterranean with annual rainfall of 500 mm. The soil is limestone and the vines are dedicated to the Moscatel grape.
• Vinalpo -- the southernmost region. Large, more inland section between the towns of Villena and Pinoso. The climate is continental and dry with rainfall of 300 mm/year. Primarily produces red wines from Monastrell. Iconic red is sweet Fondillon made from overripe grapes in the Rancio style.
• El Comtat -- the area between the two, both in terms of geography and climate. Produces both dry red and sweet white wines.

Why Alicante as an Emergent Region?
Alicante was once known as a region of bulk production and indifferent quality. However, according to Cellar Tours, a new generation of winemakers has come to understand which varieties fit their territories and, as a result, are producing some excellent blends that are more familiar to the world markets. In addition, these producers are also focusing on elegant and fresh reds,

According to BBR, the renovation of the infrastructure and vineyards in the region have helped rehabilitate Monastrell's reputation as it now produces "fleshy, concentrated, complex wines with intense violet and redcurrant notes."

Empordà
La Costa Brava, the coastline that runs along Spain's northeastern shore, is best known for its beaches and resorts and less so for the DO Empordà that lies just inland of it. This lack of identity was so palpable that the DO appended the coastline's name to its own in order to elevate its visibility. The name is thus, officially, Empordà-Costa Brava.

Why Empordà as an Emerging Region?
According to Decanter:

A bunch of young, highly motivated winemakers, fresh from their oenology studies, are busy remaking the ancient terraces and dry stone walls, resurrecting old vines -- principally Garnatxa and Carinyena -- and planting new ones. Their wines have bags of character and a strong sense of place, marked by the Mediterranean and given a good dose of tough love by the Tramontana winds that blast across the mountains from the north stressing and airing the vines in equal measure."

 According to Laura Masramon (lauramasramon.com):

In the 1990s, a group of young wine experts … returned to the farms. Their grandfathers had preserved very old vines, some of which are over a hundred years old. The new generation used these vines and their expertise to create unique, authentic, wine … the young enologists seek to revive the regional varieties to the point of mastering them and understanding them in depth. Thus they obtain wines that express the terroir of the Empordà. They are modern wines but at the same time speak to us of those 2700 years of history.

Jumilla
Jumilla is a 19,000 ha DO in Murcia, a small region on the coast of southeast Spain. Its specialty is wines made from the Monastrell variety (80% of the region's plantings).

Why Jumilla as an Emergent Region?
Jumilla has re-invented itself as a producer of modern, fruity red, white, and Rosé wines. Improved vineyard management, and outside investment in new equipment from industry heavyweights in other Spanish regions, have led to a remarkable increase in wine quality. The result is a new generation of "characterful" wines, some organic, and the majority red, in which the rediscovered Monastrell grape is showing promising results in the hands of skilled winemakers.

Sierra de Gredos

Sierra de Gredos is a mountainous wine growing region. located about 100 km west of Madrid, which has been gaining attention due to old Garnacha vines planted at elevations ranging between 600 and 1200m. 

Why Sierra de Gredos as an emergent region? 

Natasha Hughes MW, sees many of Spain's younger winemakers turning "... to the creation of fresher, more aromatic wines that are designed to reveal their terroir rather than their cooperage" and "one of the areas spearheading the insurrection is the Sierra de Gredos" where "a treasure trove of old vines" are being adapted "to the production of complex, refined wines."

In addition (Jancis Robinson):

• The region is proximate to Madrid
• There is a flowering of newcomer producers in a region that had heretofore been dominated by Cooperatives
• High quality juice is produced from the older vines
• The stylistic profile of the delicate Garnachas produced in the region is attractive to discerning consumers.

Penedès DO

Penedès DO straddles both the Barcelona and Tarragona provinces.

Why Penedès as an Emergent Wine Region?
The region is at the forefront of moving vineyards to organic and biodynamic farming. Beyond that it is not clear why Torres positioned it as an emergent region. Cava has been made there for a while as, have solid white wines. Red wines are ascendant but they are not readily available outside the region. Penedès DO is engaged in the battle for Cava supremacy but that is a battle to carve up an existing cake and I see nothing therein which is "emergent" level.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Emergent Spanish wine regions: Galicia

Galicia is also tagged by Pedro Ballesteros Torres as and "emergent" Spanish wine region.

Located in the northwest portion of the Iberian penninsula, Galicia is known for cool, moderate temperatures and green, lush, rolling hills. Its five official DOs (Ribeiro, Ribeira Sacra, Monterrei, Valdeorras, and Rias Baixas) are known for crisp, aromatic white wines from Albarino, Loureiro, Torrontes, Godello, Caiño Blanco, and Treixadura.

Galicia (Source: wineandvineresearch.com)

Two of the five Galicia subzones (Monterrei and Ribeira Sacra)  are described in greater detail in the following sections.

DO Monterrei
DO Monterrei takes its name from the medieval castle which dominates the area.

Monterrei Castle

The DO falls within the Douro River Valley (as most of its vines are planted in the valleys along the Tamega River, itself a tributary of the Douro) and has two sub-zones (Slopes of Monterrei and Monterrei Valley) and three growing districts (Pazo de Monterrei, Oimbra, and Tamaguelos).

The climate is continental, warm and dry during the summer and very cold in the winter. The mountain ranges proximate to the DO, combined with its distance, limits the moderating influence of the Atlantic Ocean. The rain-shadow effect -- caused by the mountains -- limits annual rainfall to 23 inches, less than 1/4th the 93 inches experienced by Rais Baixas, a DO that is closer to the ocean.  During the ripening period, the area experiences 20-degree diurnal temperature variation.

Elevations in the DO range between 300 and 900 m.

There are three major soil types in the DO:

1. Slate and Schist
2. Granitic and sandy -- low pH soils resulting from the erosion of granitic rock
3. Sedimentary.

Soil composition will vary depending on altitude.

Aromatic white varieties (Godello, Treixadura, Dona Blanco, Albarino) comprise 67% of all plantings.

Ribeira Sacra
While Galicia is primarily known for its white wines, Ribeira Sacra is known for its reds; and, especially, its Mencia.

Winemaking in Galicia originated with the ancient Romans and those traditions were upheld during the Middle Ages by the monks who resided in the still-evident monasteries. This religious history is captured in the DO name -- Ribeira Sacra -- which translates to Sacred Shore. But this winemaking tradition collapsed with the Italy-wide movement from farms to cities in the last century, resulting in the loss of know-how and varieties.

Riberia Sacra attained its DO in 1996. Its approximately 1200 ha (2965 acres) hugs the the contours of the Miño and Sil rivers prior to their convergence and the transit of the surviving Miño into Portugal,. The landscape is dominated by steep slopes and river canyons with some vineyards resident on 50-degree slopes. The steepness of these slopes require "heroic" farming a la Mosel and Liguria.

Source: https://ribeirasacra.org/

While the Galician climate is considered Atlantic, Riberia Sacra's remove from the coast renders it continental: long, warm summers and cold, wet winters. Soils here are well-drained slate and granite.

Spanishwinelover.com observes that: "... Ribeira Sacra seems to have ticked off all the boxes to become a top player." There are some challenges, however:

• Removing a single ha of traditional vineyard, including stone walls and a railing system to transport harvest cases uphill, costs between 80,000 and 100,000 euros. Solution is potentially to replace stone walls with soil terraces
• Villages are empty
• Difficult to hire people; once hired, they need to be trained.

Why Galicia as an Emergent Region?
According to Jancis Robinson:

... Galicia has been increasingly valued by Spaniards as their one source of fine, often exotically scented, crisp white wines. The top Galician wines, usually made from the Albariño grape, are some of the most sought after in Spain and have a growing following around the world. 

In addition:

• The complex, age-worthy wines of Valdeorras made from the formerly ignored indigenous variety Godello has been grabbing attention outside the region and the notice of experts such as Jancis Robinson
• "Ribeiro is building a reputation for fresh, elevated Treixedura-driven wines made from grapes planted on hillside terraces."
• Spanishwinelover.com observes that: "... Ribeira Sacra seems to have ticked off all the boxes to become a top player: breathtaking landscapes with dizzying vineyards; a great array of local grape varieties in the process of being recovered; the complexity derived from the diversity of soils, exposure, and elevations; and a generation of terroir-driven, quality-focused producers determined to leave behind the attitudes and short-sighted views of yesteryear."

******************************************************************************************************

The regions identified as emergent by Torres in his initial article are:

• Balearic Islands
• Utiel-Requena DO
• Galicia
• Bierzo
• The Canary Islands
• Penedès
• Alicante
• Empordà
• Jumilla
• Sierra de Gredos
• Arribes DO
• Aragon

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Emergent Spanish wine regions: Aragon

Aragon is, according to Pedros Ballesteros Torres, an "emergent Spanish wine region."

Aragon is a culturally significant autonomous Spanish community which hosts four DOs within the confines of its border: Somontano to the north and Campo de Borja, Cariñena, and Calatayud to the south. The landscape covered by these DOs range from snow-capped peaks in the north, to parched plains in the south, and green hills in between.

Aragon DO
(Source: wineandvinesearch.com)

The climate is continental, with altitude as a key modifier. The Pyrenees and other elevated areas in the north, and some areas in the south, are cooler. Vineyards in these locations are sited at between 500 and 1000 m altitude. Conversely, altitude in the middle of the DO comes in at around 200 m.

The cierzo (north wind) is a strong, dry, and very cold wind channeled by the Ebro River Valley. It mitigates temperatures as well as disease uptake on the fruit or vines.

Soils herein are predominantly chalk and clay.

Until the 1990s, large-scale farming and bulk-wine production were the heart of the Avignonese wine industry; a lot more of the wine is bottled today. Garnacha is the main cultivar planted but there is significant representation from Cariñena and Tempranillo. 

Internal DOs

DO Somontano

DO stautus awarded in 1984. The vines are planted in the terraces of the valleys that lead to the northern part of the Ebro Valley. This zone produces balanced, fruity red wines (a mix of international and indigenous varieties) and crispy, refreshing whites (Macabeo, Garnacha Blanca, Chardonnay, among others). 

DO Campo de Borja

This DO is blessed with a plethora of Garnacha vines, some with serious age. An extreme continental climate with fog from the Ebro River adding humidity.

Production is primarily young red and rosé wines with white wines only 8% of the total. In addition to Garnacha, Tempranillo, Mazuelo, and Cabernet Sauvignon are the red varieties planted.

The wines from this region are "denser, with more fruity aromas and personality than Cariñena wines."

DO Cariñena

This region was awarded DO status in 1932 but has a wine-making history which stretches back to Roman times. It was first officially delimited in 1696. 

The climate is continental, with the extreme temperatures, low rainfall, hail, and cierzo providing a multitude of challenges for the area's growers. Most of its vineyards are located on the Cariñena Plain and its surrounds where the soil is limestone over rock, slate, or alluvial.

Garnacha is the most widely planted red (55%) while Macabeo is the most popular white variety.

DO Calatayud

This region was awarded DO status in 1989.

The climate is continental, with very hot and dry summers, very cold winters, and significant temperature excursions. The climate is mitigated by vineyard altitude: the south-facing slopes of the Sierra de Virgin mountain range can reach elevations of up to 800m. The area can experience frost for over half the year with the attendant threat of vine damage.

The soils are loose and rocky with generous limestone contribution. They are well drained. 

Big, bold reds from Garnacha (75% of plantings) are the region's staple wine. Other red varieties include Tempranillo and Mazuelo. The white varieties are Macabeo, Malvasia, and Chardonnay.

Why Aragon DO as an Emergent Region?

According to spanish-living.com:

Aragon has concentrated on improving its wine production techniques, selecting the grape varieties with an eye to quality and streamlining traditional cultivation methods. The progress that has been made is noteworthy, though more pronounced in some regions than in others.

******************************************************************************************************

The regions identified as emergent by Torres in his initial article are:

• Balearic Islands
• Utiel-Requena DO
• Galicia
• Bierzo
• The Canary Islands
• Penedès
• Alicante
• Empordà
• Jumilla
• Sierra de Gredos
• Arribes DO
• Aragon

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Emergent Spanish wine regions: Utiel-Requena DO

Pedro Ballesteros Torres, in a 2/2/18 Decanter article on Spanish wine trends, wrote about newly emergent wine regions, areas propelled by the aggregated effects of:

• Developments in viticulture and oenology
• Climate change
• A resurgence of the perennial value of indigenous varieties
• A market eager to reward niche identities.

I have been providing brief overviews of each of these regions, including the reasons why they are considered emergent, in a series of blog posts. I continue herein with DO Utiel-Requena.

Utiel-Requena, named after two neighboring towns, is one of the largest DOs in Valencia. Its 34,000 ha of vines, 6000 wine families, and 100 wineries are distributed among nine towns and are the main economic drivers in the region.

The DO is located on a high plateau (elevation between 900 and 600 m) 70 km inland from the Valencia coast. The climate is Mediterranean with continental influences and significant diurnal temperature variation. The region averages 450 mm of rain per year.

Source: wineandvineresearch.com

The soils are either alluvial or clay with limestone deposits and are well-drained. The elevation decreases as one moves from the interior to the east with the highest subzones in the west producing wines of higher acidity, lower alcohol, and bright fresh fruit aromas.

The main variety in the DO is the indigenous Bobal which, at 23, 712 ha, occupies 72% of the planted vineyard area; and 53% of those vines were planted in excess of 40 years ago. Planting density ranges between 1600 and 400 vines/ha. "The name is derived from bovale, or bull, as the irregular cone-shaped bunches are supposed to resemble a bull's head."

The highest level of the Spanish appellation system is Vino de Pago and El Terrarazo, a vineyard in this DO, attained this status in 2010.

El Terrarazo
El Terrerazo is one of 19 Vino de Pagos in Spain and the first in the Communidad Valenciana. El Terrarazo was granted Vino de Pago status -- the highest level in the Spanish appellation system -- in 2010.

Spanish wine appellation system
(Source:https://www.winescholarguild.org/)

Vino de Pago requirements are as follows:

• The site must be a single vineyard
• The vineyard must be owned by the estate producing the wine
• The vineyard must fall within a registered DO
• The vineyard must demonstrate unique characteristics that make it worthy of accessing that status

El Terrarazo's geographic location is indicated by the two red circles in the map below.

The characteristics of El Terrerazo are as follows:

• 800 m elevation
• Dolomite limestone with a chalky/sandy texture
• 100% Bobal
• Vines dating back to 1945 and 1970
• Non-irrigatedf Gobelet system
• Traditional viticulture; ground maintained with an alternating vegetable.

Why Utiel-Requena as an Emergent Region?
There are a number of reasons for the rising stock of the region:

• A new generation of winemakers
• In the early 2000s, Bobal was known for its "toothsome, juicy rosés." Since then, "serious attention to viticulture and subtle approaches to winemaking and blending to manage tannins has created wines with strong international appeal"(Decanter). "Production is much less aggressive, using macro- and micro-oxygenation, longer maturation periods, larger oak barrels, and a revival of tinajas (traditional clay jars for fermenting and ageing wine)." (imbibe.com)
• "Quality is prioritized over quantity, often employing sustainable, organic, and strictly rainfed viticulture, protrvtion of old vines, better canopy management, and close monitoring of phenolic maturation." (imbibe.com)
• "With the pressure of adapting to climate change, the demand for less interventionist viticulture, and the trend for fresher, crisper wines, Utiel-Requena with Bobal in its armory is guaranteed to keep making history" (Decanter).
• Wineries such as Bodega Mustiguillo, Dominio de la Vega, and Vina Memorias are pursuing the production of high-quality, terroir-driven wines. The co-operative Grupo Coviñas (which represents 3000 farmers covering 41% of DO land) "has become a very modern, quality-driven winery." (imbibe.com).

******************************************************************************************************

The regions identified as emergent by Torres in his initial article are:

• Balearic Islands
• Utiel-Requena DO
• Galicia
• Bierzo
• The Canary Islands
• Penedès
• Alicante
• Empordà
• Jumilla
• Sierra de Gredos
• Arribes DO
• Aragon

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Emergent Spanish wine regions: DO Arribes

Pedros Ballesteros Torres has identified a number of "emerging Spanish wine regions," areas that merit that moniker due to the aggregated effects of:

• Developments in viticulture and oenology
• Climate change
• A resurgence of the perennial value of indigenous varieties
• A market eager to reward niche identities.

DO Arribes is numbered among this lot. Its 380 ha of vines are planted on the higher, flatter ground and steep terraces facing the Douro and Tormes Rivers and its erosion-legacy plains. 

DO Arribes

The climate in Arribes is Mediterranean, with quality-enhancing diurnal temperature variation. The soil is sandy and shallow with embedded loose granite and quartz pebbles, all resting on a bed of slate. Some rocky outcroppings can be found at various points along the riverbanks.

The red varieties grown here include the the native Juan Garcia, along with Tempranillo, Rufete, Bruñal, Garnacha, and Mencia. Ninety percent of the vines planted are red varieties. White wines are made from Malvasia (the dominant variety), Verdejo, and Albillo.

The red wines are generally single-variety -- and generally Juan Garcia -- but blends are becoming more important with the passage of time. The blend must contain a minimum of 60% of the lead cultivar.

The majority of the vines are trained gobelet due to Juan Garcia's sensitivity to grey rot.

******************************************************************************************************

The regions identified as emergent by Torres in his initial article are:

• Balearic Islands
• Utiel-Requena DO
• Galicia
• Bierzo
• The Canary Islands
• Penedès
• Alicante
• Empordà
• Jumilla
• Sierra de Gredos
• Arribes DO
• Aragon

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

An Assyrtiko wine tasting organized by Cinque Wine Bar (Athens, Greece): Domaine Hatzimichalis, Gaia Winery, and Avantis Santorini Winery

I chatted with Yiannis Karakasis MW on InstagramLive during the lockdown as to the current and future states of Greek wine. When the conversation turned to Assyrtko, he stated thusly:

There are over 2000 ha of Assyrtiko vines planted nationwide, with 40 - 45% of those plantings in Santorini. If you have a scale with minerality on one side, and fruit on the other, Santorini comes down hard on the minerality side with high minerality, saltiness, and evaporating smoke. If you go to mainland Greece, the Assyrtiko is broader, with more fruit. In the islands, the Assyrtiko is balanced between fruit and acidity.

The Assyrtiko tasting organized by Cinque Wine Bar would allow us to test this hypothesis as two of the wines were from Santorini while the third was from mainland Greece. Below I provide a brief description of each of the estates.

The Producers

Domaine Hatzimichalis

This estate was founded when Dimitris Hatzimichalis purchased land in the Atalanti Valley (Central Greece) in 1973, an area which had, hitherto, been "home to a tradition of small-scale viticulture." Grapegrowing in the region is advantaged due to its location "between the cool breezes of Mount Parnassus and the Euboean Gulf of the Aegean Sea."

The estate is spread over 220 ha planted to a total of 25 varieties. The Assyrtiko vines are from a 4-ha vineyard named Alepotrypa, the soil of which is clay loam with hints of limestone and sand. Fifty percent of the vines are newly planted - 5 years ago -- while the remaining 50% were grafted onto 20 - 25-year-old rootstock originally utilized by Chardonnay scions.

All of the work in the vineyard is done by hand, inclusive of harvesting. The grapes are vinified in stainless steel tanks after which they spend six months aging on the lees.

The estate was represented at the tasting by Leonidas Hatzimichalis.

Gaia Winery

This is a very important estate in the context of Greek wine history. According to Yiannis Karakassis, along with Alpha Estate, Domaine Geravassilou, Ktima Kir Yianni, Ktima Pavlidis, Boutari, and Sigalas, Gaia sits firmly in the first wave of producers that established the foundations of Greek wine.

Gaia produces wine both in Santorini (PDO Santorini) and Nemea (PDO Nemea - PGI Peleponnese). The grapes and wine for this tasting were sourced from Santorini. I have previously detailed the Santorini environment but will summarize it here as presented on the Gaia website:

• Volcanic, nutrient-poor porous soil that is phylloxera-free
• Long hours of sunshine
• Paucity of rainfall
• Sea mist and strong winds during the summer
• Humidity retained by the soil for plant use
• Basket-training system for the indigenous Assyrtiko vines
• Protection from warm winds and intense sunlight in the summertime.

The climate on Santorini is Mediterranean -- which is generally favorable for grape-growing -- but vintage quality on Santorini is determined by: rainfall intensity; absence or presence of heat waves in June and early July; and the nighttime humidity in the July-August period.

The Gaia Santorini vineyard is planted with 70 - 80-year-old, own-rooted vines which yield about 3000 kg/ha. No irrigation is allowed on the island.

The grapes for the Gaia Wild Ferment are carefully selected from the Pyrgos vineyard. The grapes are subjected to a 12-hour cold soak before being placed in 1000L stainless steel tanks and new French, American, and Acacia barriques for wild-yeast fermentation. The wines are stirred on the lees every second day.

We were led in the tasting of the Gaia wine by Giannis Paraskevopoulos. He is the co-owner of the estate and its Oenologist in addition to being a Professor at the University of Oenology in Athens.

Avantis Santorini Winery

The Avantis Santorini estate was launched in 2012 by winemaker Apostolos Mountrichas. The estate is located at 200 m elevation on volcanic soil. The estate owns 1.5 ha of land and purchases grapes to meet its overall needs. Yields are at 13.75 hl/ha.

Grapes for the Afoura wine are harvested and then cold-soaked for 24 hours prior to pressing in a vertical hydraulic basket press. The juice is then funneled into stainless steel tanks where it is fermented using indigenous yeasts. Post-fermentation the wine is transferred to 1000L oak barrels for aging. The wine spends 12 months on the lees with batonnage every 15 days. The wine is filtered prior to bottling.

We were led in the tasting by Nikitas Prassas of Cinque Wine Bar. On hand was the Oenologist Kotseridas George who is a Professor of Oenologie at the University of Agriculture, Athens, and also serves as a Consultant to Avantis Winery.

Tasting the Wines

The first wine tasted was the 2019 Hatzimichalis Assyrtiko Atalanti Valley. Leonidas predicted that this wine would show fruit aromas plus the Assyrtiko character. For me it was very aromatic. Lime and salinity on the nose with those two characteristics carrying through to the palate, along with a mineral character, acidity, and a lengthy finish. It would end up exhibiting a little more heft than was the case for the Gaia.

The Gaia 2019 Assyrtiko Wild Ferment showed minerality, a marine character, salinity and mint on the nose. A skin-contact texture on the palate along with citrus skin, salinity, minerality, and bright acidity. Minerality dominant. 

I tasted the 2011 edition of this wine back in 2012 and had noted smoke, dill, baking spices, and burnt citrus on the nose, Searing acidity. Saline and some oak tannins. The most floral of the wines in the flight, A slight vegetal note. Spicy.

Avantis Santorini Winery 2018 Afoura -- A fino note on the nose along with oiliness and barrel notes.  Slightly honeyed. Wooden notes flow through to the palate. I am not a big fan of wooded Santorini Assyrtikos.

Observations and Comparisons

The tasting provided three different characters for us to analyze in that even though the latter two wines were from Santorini, the Afoura was aged in wood.

Assyrtiko is clearly one of the leading white grape varieties in the world. In a 2012 tasting in New York City organized and hosted by Wines of Santorini, Jordan Mackay, the panel leader, stated that he found the wines from Santorini striking and "... one of the most singular and distinctive wines in the world." Yiannis Karakasis MW says that "Santorini always works because they produce great wine" and he views Assyrtiko as a starting point for anyone looking to begin an exploration of Greek wine.

I traveled through North Greece back in 2015 and tasted a few Assyrtikos there. My observations at the time were as follows:

The Assyrtikos encountered in North Greece were fruitier and had less mineral and acidity characteristics than their Santorini counterparts. I think that this variety, under the proper conditions, and with the proper winemaking, can be a winner for the region. I tasted tank- and barrel fermented samples at Wine Art Estate and found the former to have complex tropical notes, riper fruit, and less minerality than the wines of Santorini while the latter had toast notes and a harmonic combination of fruit and oak. I was more tolerant of oak in the North Greece Assyrtiko than I am with it in a Santorini Assyrtiko.

In Closing

I would like to once again express my sincerest thanks to the team at Cinque Wine Bar for putting this long-distance event together. I enjoyed it immensely and found it educational to boot. I would also like to thank all of the winery representatives for taking the time to share your knowledge and your wines with us. And, finally, I would like to thank the winelover community for fostering the kind of environment wherein members so selflessly undertake activities which redound to the benefit of members beyond themselves.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Prelude to an Assyrtiko tasting organized by Cinque Wine Bar (Athens, Greece)

Cinque Wine Bar continues to have and hold a warm and cuddly place in my heart. A Winelover group visited Athens in early 2016 to celebrate one of our acclaimed anniversaries. Brandon Tokash and I arrived in the afternoon prior to the start of the official proceedings and decided to do dinner that evening. 

Author and Brandon Tokash

Later in the evening we were joined by Sharon Parsons, Lidia Rizzo, and Sarah May Grunwald and, during the course of our wine-fueled conversation, Sharon mentioned that she had been contacted online and invited to pay a visit by someone from a Cinque Wine Bar. We did not have any scheduled events until the evening of the following day so we "offered" to accompany her. It was a deal.

On the day of the visit, Brandon and Lidia left early to explore so Sharon and I agreed to meet them later at Cinque. We took a taxi at the appointed time, struggled a bit getting there, but eventually made it. It was love at first flight.

Evangelie Tseliou and Greg Prassas (owners) are the nicest people you will ever meet; and their wine and food offerings and suggestions are stellar. We became fast friends immediately and ended up spending most of a fantastic day at their establishment. 

From left: author, Sharon, Brandon, Lidia, Greg

Brandon, Lidia, Sharon, John, Parlo, and I had made arrangements to spend three weeks in early autumn of last year with Greg and Evangelie at their Athens and Mykonos locations and for some winery visits but the pandemic got in the way.

Anyway, when Evangelie approached me and asked whether I would be willing to participate, along with a number of other Winelovers, in a Zoom Assyrtiko tasting, I jumped at the opportunity. One of my favorite people would be mailing me multiple bottles of Assyrtiko -- one of my favorite white wines -- at no cost to me, so that I could commune in real time with some of my favorite winelovers. This was a no-brainer.

There was some delay in receiving the wines but this only heightened the anticipation. By the way, all of my fellow attendees were equally excited about participating and were equally effusive in expressing their appreciation for the opportunity that Evangelie, Greg, and Nikitas had afforded us. After all, we were spread around the globe. And they had to coordinate the logistics, follow up with recalcitrant customs brokers, and uncaring bureaucracies, coordinate speakers, etc. They did an awesome job.

I will cover the actual tasting in a follow-up post.

©Wine -- Mise en abyme

Emergent Spanish wine regions: Sierra de Gredos

Pedro Ballesteros Torres, in a 2/2/18 Decanter article on Spanish wine trends, wrote about newly emergent wine regions thus acclaimed based on the aggregated effects of:

• Developments in viticulture and oenology
• Climate change
• A resurgence of the perennial value of indigenous varieties
• A market eager to reward niche identities.

I have been providing brief overviews of each of these regions, as well as detailing the reason(s) why they are considered emergent. I continue herein with details on the region Sierra de Gredos.

Sierra de Gredos is a mountainous wine growing region. located about 100 km west of Madrid, which has been gaining attention due to old Garnacha vines planted at elevations ranging between 600 and 1200m. The region, which currently is not a specified D.O., spreads across the provinces of Avila (VdT Cyl), Madrid (D.O. Viños de Madrid), and Toledo (D.O. Méntrida) but falls within the regulatory framework of Viños de la Tierra de Castilla y León.

Sierra de Gredos circled in red. Modification of
Quentin Sadler map sourced from catavino.net

This wine area was previously known for its production of bulk wine with transition to the production of quality inhibited by (David Furer, Sommelier International, 3/23/18):

• Its relative invisibility, even to knowledgeable wine professionals
• It had only been established as a wine production zone since the 1990s
• Growth had been stunted by economic difficulties, beginning with the financial crisis of 2008
• Lack of an official designation.

Grape growing is centered around three valleys:

• Valle de Alberche
• Slightly hotter and drier than the rest of Sierra de Gredo
• Dominated by granitic sand
• The western portion imparts the most mountain influence to the grapes due to altitude, diurnal variation, and shadowing from rains
• The noted wine village of Cebreros is located within this valley
• Valle Alto Alberche
• Extremely continental
• Very cold at nights
• Higher in elevation; as much as 1200 m
• Valle de Tiéter
• Rainier
• Mediterranean
• Elevations up to 1000 m.

In general, the climate can be characterized as warm continental. Soils are mainly granitic and sandy with some slate around the village of Cebreros in Avila province.

The primary varieties grown in the area are Garnacha (red) and Albillo Real (white). Garnacha especially thrives in the higher altitudes and northern exposures that exist in villages such as El Tiemblo and Peña Caballera and produces wines that are more acidic and tannic than similar varieties grown in the south of France and SE Australia. The difference in structure is a result of the higher elevation and nutrient-poor soils in Sierra de Gredos. The indigenous Albillo Real is farmed organically  and produces wines that exhibit structure and a salty minerality and, when fully ripe, a Viognier-like honeyed, floral character.

Vinification is conducted in either large oak barrels or clay jars (tinajas) using natural yeasts and very little sulphur. Garnacha wines are subjected to lengthy maceration on the skins, sometimes lasting up to as much as 60 days. 

The Sierra de Gredos Garnachas have been described as Burgundian and less extracted and more ethereal than the majority of Spanish Garnachas. Lettie Teague, in describing the wines of Commado G (a producer from the region) said it was "like meeting Burgundy and Rhone Valley in high altitude Spain."

Why Sierra de Gredos as an emergent region? Natasha Hughes MW, sees many of Spain's younger winemakers turning "... to the creation of fresher, more aromatic wines that are designed to reveal their terroir rather than their cooperage" and "one of the areas spearheading the insurrection is the Sierra de Gredos" where "a treasure trove of old vines" are being adapted "to the production of complex, refined wines."

In addition (Jancis Robinson):

• The region is proximate to Madrid
• There is a flowering of newcomer producers in a region that had heretofore been dominated by Cooperatives
• High quality juice is produced from the older vines
• The stylistic profile of the delicate Garnachas produced in the region is attractive to discerning consumers.

******************************************************************************************************

The regions identified as emergent by Torres in his initial article are:

• Balearic Islands
• Utiel-Requena DO
• Galicia
• Bierzo
• The Canary Islands
• Penedès
• Alicante
• Empordà
• Jumilla
• Sierra de Gredos
• Arribes DO
• Aragon

©Wine -- Mise en abyme