There is a consensus among the internet maps of Italy that Central Italy includes the regions of Tuscany, Umbria, Marche, and Lazio; beyond that, the consensus falls down. I have seen maps which add Emilia-Romagna to the mix. I have seen maps which add Abruzzo to the mix. And I have seen maps which add both Abruzzo and Molise to the mix. For the purposes of this effort, I will treat Central Italy as being comprised of the initial regions mentioned. The reasons for this are twofold: (i) Emilia-Romagno has already been discussed within the bounds of Northern Italy and, (ii) according to Wikipedia:
Abruzzo is considered a region of Southern Italy in terms of its culture, language, history and economy, although geographically it may also be considered central. The Italian Statistical Authority also deems it to be part of Southern Italy, partly because of Abruzzo's historic association with the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies.If Abruzzo falls within the sphere of Southern Italy then it stands to reason that the same will hold true for Molise.
The figure below captures the sparkling wine regions of Central Italy. Central Italy has four regions against Northern Italy's eight, less than half of the wine zones (31 versus 78), and a lower average wine zones/region (7.75 versus 9.75).
There is only one DOCG sparkling wine in Central Italy and no single sparkling wine standout on the order of Franciacorta or Alta Langa, for example.
A large part of the disparity in sparkling wines between North and Central Italy is locational. The more northerly regions are colder and produce crisper wines that are more conducive to sparkling wine consumption. Central Italy, on the other hand, has more of a Mediterranean climate -- and riper grapes -- over large parts of its surface area. In order to attain the acidity that is so integral to quality sparkling wine grapes, Central Italy producers have to source the grapes from higher-altitude vineyards.
The table below shows the wine varieties utilized in the production of Central Italy sparkling wines. A total of 99 varieties were employed in Northern Italy while 39 are utilized in Central Italy. Outside of the international cultivars, the most common varieties used across the Central Italy regions were Grechetto, Malvasia, and Trebbiano.
I now turn to a description of the sparkling wines in each of the Central Italy regions.
Toscana
As aptly described on tripadvisor.com, "The achingly beautiful Tuscany region of Italy is a touchstone of art, food, and culture. Made up of stunning countrysides and distinguished cities, Tuscany is the perfect escape for gastronomes, cognoscenti, and fans of the Italian Renaissance." The characteristic Tuscan landscape is a blend of gently rolling hills (66.5% of the region's 22,985 sq. km) leading to steep-peaked mountains (25%) and plains (8.5%).
But Tuscany is also a wine powerhouse, ranking sixth among Italian regions in overall wine production and third in terms of DOP wine production. It is renowned for its red wines with Sangiovese ruling the roost in Chianti, Montalcino and Montepulciano, and Bordeaux varietals prominent in the Maremma region (especially Bolgheri and Suvereto) as well as having some presence in Chianti and Montalcino.
Climate and soil composition in Tuscany is location-dependent. For example, Chianti-based producers operate in a continental climate with galestro and albarese soils while their coastal counterparts operate in temperate climates with stone- and rock-imbued clay soils.
Tuscany's focus on Sangiovese and red wines is reflected in the relative paucity of sparkling wines in the region. As shown in the following chart, a total of six DOCs offer approximately 11 labels to the market.
The Pomino DOC is Metodo-Classico-only. Four of the remaining sparkling DOCs are Charmat while sparkling wines made in the Maremma Toscana DOC could utilize either the Charmat or Metodo Classico processes.
The dominant variety used in these sparkling wines is Trebbiano Toscana; Pomino DOC (Metodo Classico) makes use of the classic Italian version of the Champagne varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Nero).
Toscana sparkling wines live in the deep, dark shadows of their red, still counterparts. There are no indications that this will change anytime soon.
Umbria
Umbria lies in the cultural and vinous shadows of its northwestern neighbor Tuscany but is renowned in its own right for its lush, rolling hills, its hilltop villages (Assisi, Perugia, Orvieto, Spoleto, Todi, Spello, Gubbio), and unique historic towns.
Umbria's main business activity is agriculture, with olive oil, truffles, sunflowers, and wine grapes as the primary offerings.
The Umbrian climate is continental; cold, rainy winters and dry summers. This climate is modified by the waters of Lake Trasimeno in the area west of Perugia.
Geologic processes through the ages have resulted in the following soils distribution in Umbria:
- Alluvial sediments and debris along major river valleys
- Gravels, sands, and clays deposited during the Pliocene and early Pleistocene
- Marly deposits during the Oligocene - Miocene
- Stratigraphic Umbria-Marche deposits from the Jurassic-Miocene
- In the southwest, volcanic deposits from the eruptions of the Vulsino volcano.
A few observations:
- None of the major Umbria DOC/DOCGs (Sagrantino de Montefalco DOCG, Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG, and Orvieto DOC) produce any sparkling wine
- A small number of varieties (six) have been formally designated by name for the production of sparkling wine. Only Valle d'Aosta (one) and Liguria (three) have fewer identified sparkling-wine-designated varieties
- A preponderance of the international varieties have been designated as raw material for sparkling wine production in Umbria. Only Spoleto DOC -- of the six sparkling wine DOCs identified in the chart above -- does not specify, by name, one of the international varieties for use in the production of its sparkling wine.
- Three of the sparkling wine DOCs are located in the north of the region, one in the middle, and two in the south.
- Two Metodo-Classico-only DOCs and one Charmat-only DOC. The remaining four DOCs allow a mix of both production methods
- The Spoleto DOC wine could have been designated a varietal sparkling wine.
Le Marche
The rugged environment of Le Marche provides a landscape that is less suitable for agricultural pursuits than is the case in neighboring Tuscany, Umbria, and Abruzzo, for example. The Apennine range forms the internal border of the region and descends almost to the Adriatic Sea, with arable land and living spaces confined to the river valleys and the coastline. The climate in the region is temperate, with a continental feel inland and Mediterranean along the coast.
At 878,000 hl of wine produced in 2018, Le Marche ranked 13th among Italian regions. Its calcareous soils provide optimal residence for Sangiovese, Trebbiano, Verdicchio, and Montelpuciano, among other varieties.
Given the length of its coastline, seafood is a key part of the Marchian diet. And the diet elevates the importance of white wine in the region, with the Verdecchios from Castelli di Jesi and Matelica having pride of place. Wine from the Pecorino grape is also growing in stature.
Below is a map of the sparkling wines of Le Marche.
Some observations:
- Most of these wines are, given their 85% minimums, in effect, varietal sparkling wines
- Most of the wines are made from indigenous rather than international varieties. The varieties of note are Aleatico, Biancame, Verdicchio, Maceratino, Passerina, and Vernaccia Nera
- Most DOCs allow both Metodo Classico and Charmat production
- A total of three red sparkling wines are produced in the region: Pergola DOC Spumante; San Ginesio DOC Spumante; and Vernaccia di Serrapetrona DOC Spumante.
Vernaccia di Serrapetrona DOCG
This wine has been described as an "idiosyncratic sparkling red wine produced from the local Vernaccia Nera." This territory was granted DOC status in 1971 and elevated to DOCG in 2003. It is one of the smallest classified zones in Italy with only 20 ha of vineyards and 5000 cases produced. Vineyards must be sited between 450 and 600 m elevation.
Other than the fact that it is a sparkling red wine, Vernaccia di Serrapetrona is also unique in its production method: three fermentations. The first fermentation involves up to 60% of the handpicked grapes. The remaining 40% is dried on straw mats and added to the wine in the following January for the second fermentation. After resting for a few months, the wine is placed into pressurized containers where it is fermented using the Charmat method.
The result of this process is "an intensely aromatic wine displaying a raspberry red color, aromas of strawberries and cranberries, a hint of spice, firm tannins and bright acidity,"
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC and Verdecchio di Matelica DOC
These are the two DOCs that are the temples to Verdicchio, with the former being more revered than the latter. The sparkling wines from both regions require a minimum of 85% of the Verdicchio grape and can be made using either the Metodo Classico or Charmat methods.
The grapes for Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi are grown in the hilly areas around the town of Jesi, an area endowed with calcareous clay and limestone-rich soils. The area is blessed with a relatively dry maritime climate with persistent gentle onshore (morning) and offshore (afternoon) winds providing defenses against fungal diseases such as grey rot and mildew.
The Verdicchio di Matelica vineyards are located further inland in more of a continental climate but with soils akin to its compatriot. Vineyard orientation in Matelica is east-to-west, a situation unique to that DOC. A total of 740 ha of vineyards are planted at 400m - 500m elevation.
In his Forbes article on Italian sparkling wines, Tom Hyland identified the Colonnara Tradition Brut as one of the best examples of Verdicchio sparkling wine that he has tasted. The wine, he says, "... offers subdued herbal notes in the finish, along with bright pear and melon fruit."
In that same article, Hyland spoke favorably of a number of Verdicchio/Chardonnay cuvées:
- Poderi Mattioli Dosaggio Zero -- vintage-dated blend that is aged 48 months on its lees
- Umani-Ronchi Extra Brut millesimato -- 65% Verdicchio, 35% Chardonnay
- Umani-Ronchi La Hoz -- 80% Verdicchio, 20% Chardonnay. The Verdicchio is aged in steel while the Chardonnay is aged in mid-sized oak barrels. The wines are aged on lees for 48 months.
Lazio is comprised of mountains (26.1%), hills (54%), and plains (19.9%) and is, according to Vinous' Ian D'Agata, uniquely suited to viticulture:
- Mild climate
- Rich and varied geological mix of soils (well-drained volcanic soils prevalent)
- Marine breezes
- Adequate rainfall
- Pronounced diurnal temperature shifts
- Plethora of high-quality native grape varieties.
The chart below shows the DOC regions which specify requirements for the production of sparkling wines within their appellations.
Some observations:
- Nine of the 30 DOC(G) regions have specifications for the production of sparkling wine
- There is only one case (Circeo DOC and Chardonnay) where an international variety is included in the specifications; otherwise, all indigenous varieties
- There is some clustering of production in the regions to the southeast of Rome
- For the most part, the specifications do not call for dominant-variety blends
- The Trebbiano variety is the most widely utilized variety in Lazio sparkling wines.
©Wine -- Mise en abyme
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