Domaine Tortochot Chambertin: Stellar representation of a classic vineyard

Prior to the onset of Covid-19, and the attendant ill effects on commerce and community, Sunday was the day that our group normally gathered at Parkview (Winter Park, FL) for our Burgundy and BLT brunch. Each attendee brought a bottle of Burgundy to share and we bought dishes off the stellar Parkview menu.

Covid-19 drove us off the avenue and into the confines of our homes (some of us anyway) but that did not diminish our desire for community and bottles of Burgundy. We decided to not let distance and the virus get in our way and convened a Zoom tasting where everyone could participate from the comfort of their own home. As per usual, a bottle of Burgundy was a requirement.

I brought a bottle of 2012 Domaine Tortochot Chambertin to the party and Parlo created a killer BLT to accompany same. I describe the estate and the wine in this post.

Domaine Tortochot
The domaine is a 4th-generation, 12-ha Gevrey-Chambertin estate founded by Paul Tortochot in the 19th century. Today the estate is owned by sisters Brigitte and Chantal, with the latter managing day-to-day operations.

The Tortochot holdings in and around Gevrey-Chambertin are shown in the map below. In addition to the Grand Cru vineyards shown on the map, the domaine owns seven rows of vines in Clos Vougeot.

Tortochot Burgundy parcels
(Source:http://www.tortochot.com/en/burgundy-wines/)

Domaine Tortochot began a move towards organic farming with the planting of an experimental vineyard in 2003. A wholesale conversion to this farming method was undertaken in 2008.

The domaine's goals, as regards organic farming, are to: (i) promote good soil vitality through enrichment and (ii) permit good micro-organism development through the addition of hummus. Synthetic chemical substances are prohibited, with vine protection provided by the plant's natural resistance, supplemented, as necessary, by treatment with fungicides based on products such as rock powders, special sulfur or copper preparations, plant-based preparations, and fungal antagonists. Sex-confusion pheromones are used against grape worms.

As regards vineyard structure and practices:

• Vines are trained low and planted at 10,000 vines/ha
•  Vines are pruned in May and June to seven to eight bunches per vine
• Young shoots are removed in July to reduce extraneous sap flow
• Green harvesting is employed to ensure optimal ripeness of the remaining bunches
• A variety of grasses are deployed between rows to
• restore the vineyard ecosystem
• create hummus
• maintain a fauna of beneficial insects.

Grapes are harvested by hand based after attainment of an optimal sugar/acid balance. The grapes are destemmed and cold-macerated for four to five days prior to fermentation. Fermentation is facilitated by indigenous yeasts and includes twice-daily punchdowns and an end-of-day pumpover. The must is devatted and the pomace pressed after which the free-run and pressed juices are blended. The juice settles out for 24 hours before being transfereed to the cellar for malolactic fermentation and aging in 100% new, medium-toast, French oak barrels. The wine ages between 14 and 18 months before being bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Le Chambertin Vineyard
This 13.5 ha property is the most important vineyard in Gevrey-Chambertin and one of the top three in Côte de Nuits; it was so well regarded that the town, and seven of its vineyards, appended the name as a suffix to theirs.

The climate is continental with significant diurnal temperature shifts allowing daytime ripening and freshness-retention during the night. The vines reside on well-drained stony soils consisting of a thin layer of pebble-strewn, chalky topsoil over a deep rocky base.

Some of the notable vignerons who own property in this vineyard include Rousseau, Dugat-Py and Leroy; notable negociants are Latour and Bouchard.

The Tortochot holdings comprise 39.83 ares (0.98 acres) located on the highest part of the vineyard where the soil is much whiter and is very marly. This location suggests a less concentrated wine than grapes sourced from mid-slope.

Domaine Tortochot Chambertin 2012
The 2012 vintage was a difficult vintage in Burgundy as producers battled rain, hail, and mildew. According to Decanter, it was not an ideal year for organic and biodynamic domaines. Yields were restricted with varying quality even within a single domaine.

The wine was made as described previously with an 18-month aging period.

The wine was popped and poured. A strong barrel note upon opening but blew off quickly. Pinot fruit, baking spices, pepper and a slightly resinous character. Lean but good character. Balanced. Red fruit and coal. Cupric coating on the palate early gives way to a lengthy, drying finish. With time in the glass, perfection.


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