I have previously reported on the grape-growing environment, viticultural practices, and wine types associated with the Zibibbo grapes grown on the island of Pantelleria. Herein I explore two of the wines produced from grapes grown in that environment: Donnafugata Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria DOC 2021 and Donnafugata Lighea Zibibbo Sicilia DOC 2021.
"The Rallo family has been making wine in Sicily since 1851, adopting the Donnafuguta name in 1983." The company operates two estates in western Sicily, one in the southeast, a fourth in the northeast (on the slopes of Mt. Etna), and a fifth on Pantelleria. Each has distinctive growing conditions, allowing Donnafugata to produce an impressive range of fine wines using both indigenous and international grape varieties" (nuvomagazine.com).
The grapes for Donnafugata Pantelleria wines are sourced from the Contrade highlighted in the map below. Not shown on the map is the fact that the vineyards are planted on terraced slopes hewn out of the deep, fertile, lava-origin, sandy, mineral-endowed soils.
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| (Source: Donnafugata) |
Donnafugata has planted 68 ha of vines on Pantelleria; 2500 vines/ha for Ben Ryé (2500 - 3600 vines/ha for Lighea) with yields of 4 - 5 tons/ha (5 - 6 tons/ha for the Lighea). The vines average 60 years of age with some of the ungrafted Phylloxera survivors being in excess of 100 years old.
Grapes are ready for harvesting between late July and early August. Harvesting is done by hand, with portions of the earliest-harvested grapes placed in the intense sunlight to reduce the moisture content and concentrate the bounty.
A second harvest takes place in early September. The grapes are selected in the field and further sorted on a vibrating table prior to pressing, followed by fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks.
It is at this point that the paths of the Ben Ryé and the Lighea diverge. The must intended for Lighea is brought to full fermentation, aged for 2 months in tanks, and further aged in bottle for 3 months prior to release on the market.
Ben Ryé fermentation, on the other hand, extends over one month. First, the previously dried grapes are destemmed, hand-selected, and batch-entered into the fermenting fresh wine must. During maceration, the dried grapes contribute "sweetness allied with freshness, acidity, and unique, persistent aromas." The Ben Ryé is aged for 7 months in stainless steel and an additional 12 months in bottle before release.
I tasted the 2021 vintages of both wines.
That was an excellent year for grape growing on Pantelleria. Rainfall levels were lower than normal and a warm August lowered grape quantity. Quality, however, was very high.
The Lighea was popped and poured. Hint of mint, green flowers, and green herbs on the nose initially. Sweet fruit coming to the fore with the passage of time. Bright on the palate, giving way to lime and dried citrus skin. Stony minerality and bitter finish. Over time settles down to a fresh, non-complex, young, dry white wine. Tasted 24 hours later and this wine was popping. Mint, turpentime, and lime on the palate with retention of the bitter finish. Brightness from beginning to end.
The Ben Ryé showed sweet citrus notes along with burnt orange, white raisins, and molasses. Complex, layered wine on the nose and palate. Thick, rich, viscous and enveloping of all aspects of the palate. Balanced. Rich, creamy, saline finish.
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Ben Ryé is a highly regarded Passito wine described by Millon (Italy in a Wine Glass) as "... a glorious, wondrous expression of the fermented grape: at once concentrated and complex, yet at the same time fragrant and exhilarating." It is a wonderful wine.
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