The launch of Continuum represented an attempt to resurrect (in short order) the Robert Mondavi branch of the winemaking family tree. The line from Cesare, founder of the Mondavi winemaking tradition, ran through his sons Robert and Peter. Robert was pushed out of the family-owned Krug Winery and founded Robert Mondavi Winery. This family winery was partially lost to the Market and fully lost when bought out by Constellation in 2004. "The sale of the company left the family wealthy but adrift." Peter, on the other hand, retained Krug as a family business -- one of his proudest achievements -- and has passed it on to his sons Peter Jr. and Marc.
For the Robert Mondavi branch, the world would be unbalanced if wine was not being produced on their side. They had the funds coming out of the sale to Constellation and the requisite winemaking know-how. It was up to Robert's kids, then, to uphold the family honor. And so they did, with Tim and his sister launching the Continuum label.
I have previously discussed the pedigree and operations of the estate and will, herein, recount a recent tasting of its first 10 vintages.
The charts below provide background material on the estate, its wine blends, grape sources, and wine production environment.
The tasting was organized into the following flights:
- 2022 Sentium, 1980 Mondavi Fumé Blanc -- White wines
- 2005, 2006, and 2007 Continuum -- No Merlot and fruit sourced from Constellation vineyards
- 2008 and 2009 Continuum -- Transition in fruit source from Constellation to Pritchard Hill
- 2010 and 2011 Continuum -- All fruit from Pritchard Hill but not all Estate-grown
- 2012, 2013, and 2014 Continuum -- All Sage Mountain Vineyard fruit.
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| The Tasting Team. From left, clockwise, Caryn Reiker, Laurie Levin, Matthew Martin, Fred Wittenstein, Carol Lopez-Bethel, Al Archibald, Richard Cohen, Sean Charles Hall, and the Author |
Flight 1: 2022 Sentium and 1980 Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc
It was thought that these Mondavi Family bookend wines would serve as perfect lead-ins to the main event. The Fumé Blanc was Robert Mondavi’s first hit wine and here was his granddaughter Chiara seeking to recreate that magic by releasing a Sauvignon Blanc through the Continuum vehicle.
These wines are both primarily Sauvignon Blanc but the similarity ends there. Chiara sourced her grapes from Mendocino County and fermented them in small lots in equal parts concrete, neutral French oak barrels, and small stainless steel vessels. The 2022 edition of this wine was aged for 9 months on the lees with regular, gentle stirring applied throughout fermentation and aging. The wine was racked off the lees and blended with 7% Semillon prior to bottling.
The wine was disappointing. Perfumed nose of sweet white fruit which carried through to the palate in an unflattering manner. No attack and a flaccid finish.
Just 13 years removed from its launch vintage, the Robert Mondavi 1980 Fumé Blanc Reserve Special Selection is a wine that demands your full attention.
This vintage is considered one of the most outstanding in Napa, reflecting “the exceptionally high acid-to-sugar balance developed” during the growing season. The wine experienced 7 hours of skin contact with 7% of the blend barrel-fermented and 46% aged in contact with the lees. The wine was aged for 12.5 months in new French oak barrels and blended with 5% Semillon post-aging. These specific bottles were part of a unique wine kit selected for the first (1981) annual Napa Valley Wine Auction.
This wine was spectacular from the get go and improved with residence in the glass.
The wine had a rich golden brown color. On the nose, carmelization, beeswax, figs, mint, tangerine, and orange rind. Bright acidity initially with almost a crystalline affect at the palate rear. Lemon flavor along with green and dried herbs
After some time in the glass, dried tamarind, hot pepper, and used bourbon barrel. A long, bitter, metallic finish. After additional time, Tokaji-like effect without the sweetness. Absolutely stunning wine.
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Flight 2: 2005, 2006, and 2007 Continuum
The 2005 exhibited chocolate-covered red fruit and silky tannins while the 2006 showed dark fruit, tobacco, leather, and spice. An elegant wine which presented a step up from the 2005.
The 2007 was a crowd pleaser: Red and black fruit, lavender, cassis, spice, forest floor, and graphite. Balanced, with a lengthy finish.
Flight 3: 2008 and 2009 Continuum
The 2008 Continuum exhibited red and dark fruit, minerality, leather, and lead pencil. Concentrated yet balanced. Tannins fully integrated. Lengthy finish.
Rich red and dark fruit on the 2009 along with leather, spice, tobacco, and a florality. Medium body with a savoriness and integrated tannins. Long finish.
Flight 4: 2010 and 2011 Continuum
For the 2010, rich dark fruit, earth and baking spices. Balanced, with a lengthy finish.Dark fruit, plum, graphite, leather on the 2011. Balanced with deep, complex flavors and a long finish.
Flight 4: 2012, 2013, and 2014 Continuum
The 2012 showed dark fruit, chocolate, and graphite enveloped in a tannic shell while the 2013 showed a similar fruit profile accompanied by notes of forest floor, tobacco, graphite, and cassis. This full-bodied wine had a long, tannic finish. The 2014 showed rich dark fruit, leather, earth, baking spices, chocolate, and tobacco. Full-bodied on the palate with aflavor pull-through. Smooth tannins and a long, smooth finish
Post-Tasting thoughts of Selected Participants
Overall the wines were good, not great. Certainly not for the price. I liked the 06 and 13 best. I went back and forth on the 07. -- Fred
It was very interesting and informative. I liked the 1980 Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc and the 2013 Continuum. Of the horizontal I felt it had opened the most. I was surprised that these didn’t have the typical Napa fruit bomb. I got a green olive taste. I think I liked the Sage Mountain Vineyard wines the best. -- Richard
I thought they were great. Not your typical Cali. In order: 2013, 2007, 2005. -- Matt
I like Continuum wine in general. Some tend to be a bit typical big Cali, sometimes a bit too much for me, but also can be a nice accompaniment to steak or lamb, or salts and fats. Definitely a food wine. The ones which stood out the most to me were the 07, which is typically a vintage which I usually enjoy from Cali. I know you said it was at its end, but I actually felt it was young and in need of some air to open it up more. It was improving the longer it was in the glass. I would buy another bottle of that to try over the course of an evening and watch it evolve. 13 is another favorite vintage, so not sure I’m just leaning into my historically favored vintages out of habit, but that 13 was one which lingers on in my mind these days after the tasting as one of the top wines served. I didn’t really take notes, so just going on what I remember from the tasting. If I recall correctly I also liked the 05 vintage, but most definitely the 07, and 13. The 1980 white was interesting in that I rarely get white wine that old. The other white, while I get what they wanted to do with it, it just didn’t really work for me. If it was all there was to drink at some event I could easily quaff it down. Could be good at the beach perhaps, but not one I’d typically purchase myself.
Thanks again for organizing this. I think the food at the Vineyard paired well with the wines. I need to frequent that restaurant a bit more.
All in all a good time was had with good wine and good people. -- Sean
Thanks, I thoroughly enjoyed the lineup. My overall favorite of the night was the 1980 Fumé Blanc; remarkably preserved, nuanced and totally interesting. You suggested that it was a stellar year and yet that still doesn't explain all of how it kept its acidity and complexity. Good winemaking, I would guess. I could have sat with it for an hour. Of the reds, although I did not find the variances by vineyard and blend to be as expansive as expected, they worked together well. The '07 was the most approachable and easy to drink, I liked the '09 the best. -- Carol
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Like Carol, even though not a part of the main line of the tasting, I thoroughly enjoyed the 1980 Fumé Blanc. The Continuum's seemed to operate within a defined range of good not great. The wines tend towards balance. Most of the wines in the tasting were purpose-bought but I did not feel the urge to immediately go add the label to my collection.
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