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Monday, October 2, 2023

Revisiting the Chianti Classico UGAs

I have previously treated the Chianti Classico zonation initiative, based largely on reporting from Decanter. I revist and expand on that effort based on recent work on the topic by John Szabo MS in his vehicle, Wine Align.

According to John Szabo, the Chianti Classico zonation effort is a continuation of the quality pursuit launched by the Consorzio when it introduced Gran Selezione as a quality level above Riserva. The purpose of that initiative was twofold:
  1. Distinguish some of the highest quality wines from the denomination
  2. Claim a secure spot in the luxury-wine tier.
That effort can only be viewed as a success:
  •  154 wineries now make at least one Gran Selezione wine
  • That class accounts for 5% of the region's production but 13% of its revenue, a clear testament to market acceptance of the value proposition
The zonation process is illustrated below. 


Chianti Classico declined to pursue UGAs based on soils and topography because of the geologic complexity of the area. As shown in the chart below, the region possesses a diversity of soils: marl (San Casciano Val di Pesa); calcareous clay (Greve and all zones at lower altitudes); sandstone (backbone of Chianti Mountains); limestone (central and southern portions of the district); and tufa (around Castelnuevo Berardenga). When limestone and sandstone are found in alternating layers, that soil is called Galestro. Clay-limestone mixes are called Alberese. According to Berry Bros & Rudd, "The sandy alluvial soils of the lower sites yield fuller, meatier wines while the limestone and galestro soils of the higher vineyards deliver finer, more ethereal examples" (bbr.com).


"The UGA areas are thus not mapped out exclusively according to geology or elevation or microclimate, even if these elements are of course taken into consideration. But the real boundaries were drawn up along cultural and historical lines, refining areas of broadly shared historical heritage and winemaking philosophy." Eleven areas were specified with eight going into effect immediately and three slated to be implemented subsequently. The initial specification only includes the Gran Selezione category. 



The charts above contain much greater detail than previously reported on the geologic characteristics of the UGAs as well as the characteristics of the wines emanating therefrom.

As regards the UGA wines, a producer can place the name of the UGA on the label if the grapes are sourced exclusively from within the UGA. This requirement will be applied retroactively to include wines from the 2022 vintage.

Beginning with the 2027 vintage, UGA wines will be required to contain a minimum of 90% Sangiovese, with the remainder of the restricted to a limited number of native Italian red grape varieties. This latter requirement shuts out the international varieties Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.


©Wine -- Mise en abyme

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