The consistent threads that have emerged through my tastings of Timorasso wines are salinity, bright acidity, and mineral notes. This combination of aromas, tastes, and textures calls to mind for me wines made from Assyrtiko and Carricante in their native regions.
In this post I seek to validate, or discard, my assertions as to the similarities of these wines. The post will examine the varieties in alphabetical order.
Assyrtiko
The Assyrtiko grape, according to Yiannis Karakassas MW (one of the world's leading expert on this variety), probably originated on the volcanic island of Santorini from whence it spread to other parts of Greece and other regions of the world. Today Santorini is home to 800 ha (40% of Greece's plantings) of Assyrtiko vines.
According to Yiannis, there are key differences in Assyrtiko grown in different parts of Greece. "If you have a scale with minerality on one side and fruit on the other, Santorini comes down hard on the minerality side, with high minerality, saltiness, and evaporating smoke. If you go to mainland Greece, the Assyrtiko is broader, with more fruit. In the islands, the Assyrtiko is balanced between fruit and acidity."
Diving further into Santorini Assyrtiko, Yiannis sees these wines as having/being:
- A distinctive taste of rocks and salt
- Tight and firm in its youth with stone or tropical fruit aromas, depending on the ripeness, along with the telltale rocky saltiness.
- Vertical and powerful on the palate with the unique combination of high alcohol (up to 15.5% abv) and high acidity (pH can be as low as 2.8 and TA as high as 7.5 g/l).
The Santorini Growing Zone
The 73-square-kilometer archipelago of islands, the southernmost landmass in the Cyclades chain, lies 113 km to the north of Crete, the largest and most populous of the Greek isles and itself famed for its ancient Minoan society. Santorini is one of the European Union's protected designation of origin (PDO) regions with PDOs for dry and sweet white wines. The characteristics of the zone are summarized in the chart below.
In addition to the lack of moisture, another significant challenge to Santorini viticulturists is the stiff wind that buffets the island during the growing season and could damage the berries if they were exposed to the elements. The solution that has been employed for eons is to (i) eschew vine density and (ii) train the vines such that they can afford protection to the otherwise vulnerable berries. Vine canes are intertwined and trained into a circle and the berries grow within this protective cordon. The circular structure can be positioned above ground or in a below-ground hollow where the top of the vine is parallel to the surface.
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| Source: Winesfromsantorini.com |
Santorini vines are, for the most part, in excess of 50 years old. Vines are retained until the yield is almost zero or when the vine dies. When the vine is no longer productive, it is replaced by a branch from a nearby vine which is buried to a depth of 30 cm into the soil. After that branch has developed its own roots and has begun producing berries (a period of between 3-5 years) it is cut away from the tethering parent.
Wine Styles
Santorini Assyrtiko dry wines conform to the following styles:
- Classic -- taut; made from 100% Assyrtiko
- Blended with Athiri and/or Aidani; wines are broader and softer
- Lees aging
- Few months to two years on lees
- Fills out the mid-palate and balances the bright acidity
- Can add more complexity
- Oak -- best examples display a creamy, toasty complexity.
Aging
Due to demand pressures and the cost of library maintenance, the Santorini producers have not built out extensive libraries of their wines. Yiannis recently conducted a seminar on aged Assyrtikos and noted that (i) the wines can age but are inconsistent and subject to bottle variation and (ii) brilliant examples exhibit no signs of fatigue, showing, instead, pale colors and nutty, toasty characteristics.
Carricante
This section draws from my original research, email exchanges with Benjamin North Spencer and Brandon Tokash, and Benjamin’s book The New Wines of Mount Etna.
This section draws from my original research, email exchanges with Benjamin North Spencer and Brandon Tokash, and Benjamin’s book The New Wines of Mount Etna.
Carricante is an ancient white variety -- prevalent on Mt Etna's eastern face -- that yields low-potassium, low-pH, high acidity wines (benanti.it). The bunches are of average length at ripening, with medium-sized berries of a green-yellowish color.
Frank Cornelissen, one of the leading winemakers on the mountain, has historically viewed the variety as too acidic to produce world-class wine. Ian d'Agata, author of Native Wine Grapes of Italy, on the other hand, is quoted in Szabo's Volcanic Wines thusly: "potentially one of Italy's greatest cultivars ..." that "... when properly tended to, yields wines of great longevity and intense mineral character."
The variety (The New Wines of Mt Etna):
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| Carricante (tenutaterrenere.com) |
The variety (The New Wines of Mt Etna):
- Is the result of a natural crossing between Montonico Pinto and Scacco
- Is the primary white wine grape variety on Mt Etna
- Produces pale yellow wines with beautiful freshness and savory flavors
- Is most often blended with Catarratto, Minella Bianca, and non-aromatic Sicilian varieties to create sophisticated still table wines with great aging potential
- Is productive, but when grown above 400 m, the loading decreases and the quality improves
- Exhibits a slight petrol or kerosene scent in some wines
- Produces its best examples in the Milo area of Mt Etna.
According to Salvo Foti, famed Sicilian viticulturist, Carricante vines have to be somewhere between 10- and 15-years old in order to begin giving great concentration. Salvo said that both his father and grandfather worked Carricante and the wine's high acidity was extremely important in the days before widespread access to refrigeration. The wine is also great for raw fish, the main dish in the area.
There is a saltiness in the east side Carricante that is lacking in wines made from grapes grown on the north side of the mountain.
There is a saltiness in the east side Carricante that is lacking in wines made from grapes grown on the north side of the mountain.
A few years ago I attended Contrada dell'Etna and drank only the white wines from Etna's east and southeast flanks in order to imprint the characteristics of those wines on my senses. The key observation coming out of that exercise was as follows:
As is the case for the Santorini Assyrtikos, Carricante-based wines from the east to south flanks of Etna are characterized by salinity, minerality, and acidity and, at optimum, these characteristics meld extremely well. These characteristics also allow the wines to age well (based on my experiences drinking aged Benanti Pietra Marina wines). While the characteristics of the wines are consistent, the quality of individual wines will vary based on winemaking practices, elevation, soil composition, and other related factors.
The Growing Environment
Mount Etna has a mountain climate in a southern setting. In general, warm days, cool nights, winter snow, winds, and sunny days. The steep vineyards grow on well-drained volcanic soils which forces the vines to dig deep in search of nutrients. Vineyards are planted to high density with a low-yield training system. Labor intensity is high.
Climate in the area of interest
As shown on the below chart, growing conditions in the east and southeast differs from the conditions in the north and southwest.
The southeast and eastern slopes are unprotected from the autumn and winter rains but the combination of rapid runoff and early morning sun contribute to their attractiveness as growing regions (especially for whites).
The volcano's southeast flank experiences markedly different climatic conditions than north-slope-resident wineries. First, it is warmer in the southeast than in the north; 4 to 7 degrees warmer, as a matter of fact.
Second, with no protective layer of mountains, the region bears the full brunt of the wind and rain coming in off the Ionian Sea. In the fall and spring, dry winds form over North Africa, pick up moisture over the Mediterranean, and barrel into the Sicilian coast at upwards of 50 miles an hour. These winds are called Scirocco and an event can last from 1/2 day to several days. The wind makes it easier to farm organically as it helps to keep mold at bay.
Third, the southeast is unprotected from the autumn and winter rains but the combination of rapid runoff and early morning sun contribute to its attractiveness as a growing region 9especially for whites).
As shown on the below chart, growing conditions in the east and southeast differs from the conditions in the north and southwest.
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| Derived from Nesto and di Savino |
The southeast and eastern slopes are unprotected from the autumn and winter rains but the combination of rapid runoff and early morning sun contribute to their attractiveness as growing regions (especially for whites).
The volcano's southeast flank experiences markedly different climatic conditions than north-slope-resident wineries. First, it is warmer in the southeast than in the north; 4 to 7 degrees warmer, as a matter of fact.
Second, with no protective layer of mountains, the region bears the full brunt of the wind and rain coming in off the Ionian Sea. In the fall and spring, dry winds form over North Africa, pick up moisture over the Mediterranean, and barrel into the Sicilian coast at upwards of 50 miles an hour. These winds are called Scirocco and an event can last from 1/2 day to several days. The wind makes it easier to farm organically as it helps to keep mold at bay.
Third, the southeast is unprotected from the autumn and winter rains but the combination of rapid runoff and early morning sun contribute to its attractiveness as a growing region 9especially for whites).
Wine Styles
Etna DOC has established the following requirements for its white wines:
- Etna DOC Bianco -- to be made from Carricante (> 60%), Catarratto (< 40%), and up to 15% of other non-aromatic grapes such as Minella or Trebbiano
- Etna DOC Bianco Superiore -- to be made from Carricante (> 80%) and Catarratto or Minnella (< 20%). All grapes to be sourced exclusively from the area of Milo on the eastern side of the volcano.
According to The New Wines of Mount Etna, young Carricante is quite shy. It has a "pale color with subtle aromas and flavors of white flowers, pear and citrus." If blended with Minella, that variety adds a "spicy, white peach profile to the blend." The 100% Carricante wine is a "crisp Etna Bianco with increased acidity, temperate fruit, and saline flavors" with the finest wines showing their best after 4 years in the bottle.
In conversations with Benjamin and Brandon, they had the alcohol of the Carricante wines ranging between 11% and 14.5%, with the most fine (Benjamin) at 13%.
Aging
According to The New Wines of Mount Etna, the best flavors arrive through extended aging. As the wine ages, "the light citrus profile ... evolves to sun-dried citrus zest, ginger, herbs, and toasted almonds."
Only three Superiore producers (Brandon) use oak. For Benjamin, oak adds roundness, a sense of body, subtle autolytic characteristics, a creaminess, and concentrated flavors. Brandon prefers his Etna Bianco Superiore unoaked. He "really enjoys the salinity, minerality that sometimes vibrates on the lips, fruit, and acid that shines through. It gives an ummuddled sense of layered clarity that integrates well with aging."
Timorasso
Kerin O' Keefe (one of today's leading Italian wine experts) refers to Timorasso as "one of the most exciting wines coming out of Italy right now" which "boasts more depth, body and complexity than many Italian whites." Berry Bros and Rudd, a historical UK wine retailer, tags the wine as "one of the most exciting autochthonous grape varieties to surface in recent years." These, and many other such laudatory comments, have been directed at wine made from the Timorasso variety.
Characteristics
"Timorasso is a native grape variety of the province of Alessandria, with a quality white-berried grape, grown essentially in the Curone, Grue, Ossona, and Val Borbera valleys, in an area where the vine finds a valid 'habitat' thanks to the soil, sunshine and the position sheltered from the winds" (Consorzio).
"Timorasso is a native grape variety of the province of Alessandria, with a quality white-berried grape, grown essentially in the Curone, Grue, Ossona, and Val Borbera valleys, in an area where the vine finds a valid 'habitat' thanks to the soil, sunshine and the position sheltered from the winds" (Consorzio).
According to stradacollitortonesi.com, the Timorasso variety is a part of the ampelographic heritage of Liguria, Piemonte, Lombardia, and Emilia Romagna and is assumed to have originated somewhere between Liguria and Piemonte. The characteristics of the variety are shown in the chart below.
Cultivation Challenges
Cultivation of the variety is challenging and has partly been responsible for it going from one of the most planted white varieties in Piemonte to being convincingly supplanted by Cortese in Alessandria. Elisa Semino (quoted in Civita del bere): "... difficult to follow in the vineyard, because it has thick foliage and the shoots must be well-managed: they must be sorted in the row when they are still young so as not to break them. It has good production but requires green pruning to rebalance the right amount of branches/vine."
In a conversation I had with Marco Volpi of Cantine Volpi, he mentioned that the variety had experienced a steady decline over the preceding century due to (i) the amount of work required in the vineyard, (ii) its susceptibility to illness, and (iii) its relatively low yield. For the best results, he said, the grape has to be harvested at optimal ripeness but care has to be exercised in this pursuit as it is susceptible to sunburn. Leaves have to be removed to provide access to sunlight but should not be the leaves that provide direct shade from the sun.
In response to a question regarding the pros and cons of Timorasso, Gian Paolo Repetto (Vigneti Repetto) said that the only pro was the possibility of producing a great wine. That has to be balanced against a number of negatives:
- It is a difficult variety to grow
- Material sticks to the equipment during pruning and have to be constantly cleaned off
- Double and triple buds at bud break; these have to be cleaned out manually
- The short distance between buds are a disease risk
- Sunburn is an ever-present risk.
A grower with both Timorasso and Cortese in his/her vineyard will put three times more work in the vineyard for the former. Growers deserted Timorasso in the past because the market did not reward them for the effort expended.
The Wines
Writing about Walter Massa wines in Wine Spectator, Kerin O'Keefe states thusly:
When young, Vigneti Massa's full-bodied Timorasso wines boast alluring floral scents, creamy apricot and apple flavors, and bright acidity. As they age, they gain in mineral complexity and boast dried fruit, almond and honeyed notes seamlessly balanced with fresh acidity. I've tasted numerous vintages over the years, and the wines evolve beautifully for at least fifteen years. As the vines get older, these superb whites may increase their aging potential.
I tasted a 2016 Cascina Montagnola Morasso and reported as follows:
Light gold color. Viscuous in the glass. Sage on the nose at first blush. Elevated, high-toned, and elegant, initially. Sea spray and lemon grass. Weighty on the palate, with spice, acidity, minerality, salt, lime, and a bitter character, all preceding a cupric finish. This is a complex wine. With a little time, a slatey, rocky minerality emerges, along with a furriness reminiscent of a tannin texture. The palate is fully cleansed with each new taste. With further residence, petrol, lychee, phenolic, saline, menthol, and spice notes along with a saline-acid-pine mix on the palate. Broader on the palate with time. An excellent wine.
Growing Environment
In the past, the vineyards were widespread in the valleys previously mentioned, valleys which are "notoriously wild and difficult for many agricultural crops." The Timorasso vine prefers poor and marginal soils with especially limited water reserves. The current Timorasso growing environment is illustrated in the chart below.
The average vineyard size in the chart above is based on a total of 43.2 ha spread over 18 vineyards. It should be noted that Volpe (10 ha) and La Spinetta (5 ha) represent almost 1/3 of the total hectares. If their numbers are removed from the population, the average vineyard size declines to 1.76 ha.
Observations
- These wines have similar profiles as it relates to salinity, acidity, and minerality but Timorasso is more aromatic and structured than either the Assyrtiko or Carricante
- The Timorasso and Assyrtiko present a higher alcohol profile than does the Carricante
- Both the Timorasso and Carricante exhibit petrol notes with age
- The use of oak is much more advanced in Santorini than in Etna Bianco Superiore or Timorasso but Timorasso has the stuffing to handle oak well
- Surprisingly low levels of malolactic fermentation across the three environments
- Volcanic soils in Santorini and Mt Etna; Calcareous clay dominant in Colli Tortonesi.
- Low rainfall levels in Colli Tortonesi and on Santorini; significant rainfall on the east flank of Mt Etna.
- Relatively stressed vines in each location
- Strong winds from sea in all three locations.
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