At its core, Colli Tortonesi's Cantine Volpi is committed to sustainability and community, qualities brought into focus by a recent locally beneficial initiative. While conducting background research for my conversation with Marco Volpi -- the 5th generation in the family business -- I came across an article in the local paper lauding the company for its contributions in cleaning up a local park. When I queried Marco about this, he indicated that the winery had committed its entire staff (owners, managers, workers) to a full-day-cleanup of this 10-ha park, an effort which resulted in the removal of 550 empty beer bottles and sundry other detritus and a cleaner, more welcoming environment for locals. Community and sustainability.
As I alluded to in the foregoing, Marco was my guest on an InstagramLive chat exploring Cantine Volpi's history, operations, and experience with, and production of, the Timorasso variety. Marco is the first to tell you that he is not yet a technical expert -- having only returned to the family business in December of 2019 after a 4-year stint (was initially supposed to be four months but he grew to like his allotment of 28 free beers per month) with the Heineken brewing company -- but he acquitted himself admirably, showing especial strength in family history, markets, and Timorasso potential.
The Volpi family has been producing wine in the Tortona hills since 1914 and while Cantina Volpi is, in the scheme of things, a small-to-medium-sized business, it is a large enterprise in the region. It produces region-typical wines (Barbera, Timorasso, Cortese) from a mix of owned and rented vineyards and purchased fruit (see below).
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| Zerba (Source:cantinevolpi.it) |
The La Zerba holding was acquired in 2003, the culmination of a generations-long pursuit initiated by Marco's grandfather and continued by his father. It is farmed organically, with the company declaring its intent in 2011 and gaining certification of the Barbera in 2015 and the Timorasso in 2018. The current 2 ha of Timorasso will be supplemented by an additional 3 ha planned for 2022.
Organic farming, according to Marco, is not common in Colli Tortonesi due to the time and cost expenses. Cantine Volpi has been lucky in that recent summers have been great. If they encounter summers such as the one in 2014 - characterized by significant rainfall -- organic farming may be problematic. In 2014, even though practicing conventional agriculture, Cantine Volpi did not produce a Timorasso vintage. The major vine diseases in the area are downy mildew and powdery mildew.
As regards the soils, Marco sees them as similar across the region but differences can still be encountered in individual vineyards. For example, at La Zerba, you will encounter a Barbera zone, then a Timorasso zone, then another Barbera zone, based on varying soil characteristics. Timorasso soils are generally indicated by the presence of large white rocks in the marl and clay. Red and dark colored soils are not deemed suitable for Timorasso vines.
Thirty years ago Timorasso plantings ranged between 3 and 5 ha for the entire region. The variety had experienced a steady decline over the preceding century due to (i) the amount of work required in the vineyard, (ii) its susceptibility to illness, and (iii) its relatively low yield.
For the best results, the grape has to be harvested at optimal ripeness but care has to be exercised in this pursuit as it is susceptible to sunburn. Leaves have to be removed to provide access to sunlight but should not be the leaves that provide direct shade from the sun.
Timorasso produces a structured, mineral, aged wine. If picked optimally it will produce alcohol levels ranging between 13 and 16%. The wine evolves further in the bottle with increasing levels of a honeyed character.
Cantine Volpi has conducted a number of experiments with the variety over the years and has come to the conclusion that it is best suited to a simple white wine vinification; that is, no maceration, no malolactic fermentation, no racking. The Cantine Volpi "recipe" for Timorasso production is illustrated in the chart below.
According to Marco, the Volpi Timorasso tends to be fresher than its compatriots due to a lower alcohol level -- 13.5% -- which translates to easier drinkability.
Ninety percent of the company's production is sold into export markets, the heterogeneity of which, according to Marco, minimized the Covid impact on the company.
Non-Volpi Timorasso producers that meet with Marco's approval include La Colombera, Pomodolce, and Vigneti Repetto. He also likes Cantina Sociale because it is " a fundamental element in the system."
In terms of the future, Marco sees Colli Tortonesi as being at a very delicate phase, a phase at which they should be encouraging investment and discouraging speculation. He feels that they should be attracting capital and he is not necessarily on board with allowing "foreign" producers to buy grapes and process them outside the region and still get to affix the DOC label to their wines. He is supportive of those who come in and buy vines and gives a nod of approval to the Barolo producers in this regard. Those who come into the region and invest are making a positive contribution and should be encouraged.
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This conversation was very important in providing a large-producer-view of Timorasso production in the region, the advantages of market access that is currently not available to the smaller producers (a full treatment of the Cantine Volpi markets and marketing can be found on the video of our conversation (@wineorl on Instagram)), and some of the potential dangers inherent in organic certification.
The Cantine Volpi Timorasso production "recipe" is by no means the accepted approach in the region. As I noted in a previous post, Timorasso producers, on avearge, macerate their wines for 44 hours prior to alcoholic fermentation. I have not yet run the numbers on malolactic fermentation and racking.
Finally, it was interesting to note the daylight between Cantine Volpi and the Consorzio in the determination as to who gets to label their wines Colli Tortonesi DOC.
An entertaining and informative discussion.
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