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Tuesday, April 20, 2021

In pursuit of that white wine to complement my red: Roagna Derthona Montemarzino Timorasso 2017

Franco Ziliani (Italian blogger and wine critic) has proposed a number of factors that are driving named Langhe producers towards Timorasso wines:
  • They are impressed by the work of Massa and his disciples
  • They understand the greatness of Timorasso
  • They want to expand the the range of their reds with an important white
  • Vineyards are a bargain in Colli Tortonesi when compared to the sky-high costs in Barolo and its surrounds.
In the case of Roagna, we can add another factor: according to the literature, Luca came upon an inheritance of one ha of Timorasso vines. 

The chart below shows the sources of grapes for the Langhe producers alongside their more "indigenous" compatriots.


I will cover the Roagna Timorasso offering in this post.

According to Benchmark Wine Group:
When the Barbaresco region was officially classified in 1890, there were only a handful of families making wine ... and the Roagna family was one of them. The family-owned Piemontese producer is known for its Barbaresco Crichët Pajé cuvee, ... The estate also releases a Barbaresco Riserva, numerous single-vineyard Barbaresco bottlings, a Barolo from the Pira Vineyard, a Dolcetto d'Alba, and a Barbera d'Alba. Throughout their long history in the region, the estate has gradually acquired around 30 acres of vines in Barbaresco cru vineyards as well as 17 acres in Barolo. They are also known for their partnership bottlings with owners of other prestigious vineyards throughout Italy. The wines are made with little intervention to stay true to how wines were made when the winery first began operating.
Roagna farms 1 ha of Timorasso vines at 400 m in Montemarzino where the soils are mainly limestone-clay and rocks with a high level of active limestone. The 35-year-old vines are farmed according to organic principles. The grapes are hand-harvested and fermented with natural yeasts in large French oak casks. The wine is subsequently aged for 2 years in a large French oak cask. The initial vintage of this wine was 2014.

The 2017 edition of this wine is a powerhouse.


Pale yellow in color with a slight cloudiness. Initially, herbs and pink rose water on the nose with black pepper and sweet fruit lurking in the shadows. Complex and layered, pulling your nose deeper into the glass as you seek more extensive aroma interaction. Gum arabic and green mango close out the initial observations.

A wall of acid at the first go round on the palate, giving way to lingering green mango flavor and a mineral sensation. Great weight. Almost austere. Juicier with residence. Acidity retreats to reveal a savoriness and salinity with a bitter finish. 

This wine will continue to reward the patient drinker.


©Wine -- Mise en abyme

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