Eisele Vineyard is the iconic Calistoga estate famed for its production of world-class Cabernet Sauvignons and Sauvignon Blancs. The quality of the Araujo (most recent prior owners) wines, and the repute of the estate, was of such that Artemis Domaines (owners of Chateau Latour and Chateau Grillet, among other labels) made the trip across the ocean in 2013 and, unbidden, made an offer for the estate.
History of the Estate
A table on the left side of the estate's reception area exhibits a number of wine bottles, each displaying the label of a winemaker who has, over time, made vineyard-designated wines with grapes sourced from this vineyard.
As shown in the timeline below, the vineyard's history stretches as far back as does the history of To Kalon and grapes have been planted continuously on the property for the duration.
When the vineyard was purchased by the Eiseles, they became 60+-year-old grapegrowers. They offered their grapes to Paul Draper of Ridge and he produced a vineyard-designated wine in 1971.
The Araujos bought the vineyard in 1990 and, in short order, built a winery and produced a wine under their own label. The 1991 harvest was shared between Joseph Phelps and the Araujos and they both produced wines under their individual labels.
During their tenure, the Araujos elevated the property from a great vineyard to one of the world's great estates. They introduced organic (1998) and biodynamic (2000) farming with all herbs and preparations used in the latter management process sourced from the vineyard.
When the vineyard was purchased by the Eiseles, they became 60+-year-old grapegrowers. They offered their grapes to Paul Draper of Ridge and he produced a vineyard-designated wine in 1971.
The Araujos bought the vineyard in 1990 and, in short order, built a winery and produced a wine under their own label. The 1991 harvest was shared between Joseph Phelps and the Araujos and they both produced wines under their individual labels.
During their tenure, the Araujos elevated the property from a great vineyard to one of the world's great estates. They introduced organic (1998) and biodynamic (2000) farming with all herbs and preparations used in the latter management process sourced from the vineyard.
Our visit was arranged by Ron Siegel who had met Jean Gerandeau (Sales and Marketing Director, Artemis Domaines) at a Chateau Latour dinner held in Chicago by Hart Davis Hart. I had attended a Wine on the Way Eisele Vineyard Wine Dinner with Antoine Donnedieu de Vabres (Estate Manager) and had had extensive dialogue with him on the integration and labeling strategy. I was excited to see what progress had been made since that discussion.
The estate is 162 acres in size, 38 of which are under vine. It is located to the east of Calistoga and is surrounded by the Palisades Mountain Range, a situation which provides protection from the north winds while still allowing cooling by the westerly breezes that make their way through the Chalk Hill Gap. The nights are cool, resulting in meaningful diurnal temperature variation and its beneficial effect on the fruit.
The vines rest on volcanic cobbly soils which have been washed down from the Palisades and deposited as an alluvial fan by Simmons Creek -- the waterway bisecting the property -- and its tributary. There are gentle slopes between the creek bed and the foothills, the result of long-term gravitational and weathering effects upon the deposited rocks.
Intense storms during the winter months contribute to soil deposition but the creek dries up during the summer months leaving the vines dependent on depth-resident ground water. The stony subsoil facilitates the efforts of the deep roots to get at this water. Irrigation is only utilized when necessary.
The map below shows the configuration of the Eisele Vineyard.
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| Vineyard map (Source:eiselevineyard.com) |
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| Source: eiselevineyards.com |
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| Sonia Guerlou (Hospitality Manager), Ron, and Bev |
The vineyard is divided into 13 blocks and 40 sub-blocks reflecting “the nuances of soil and subsoil.” The varieties planted in the vineyard are as follows:
· Cabernet Sauvignon – the best Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from the plots around Simmons Creek. Less complex wines are made from the younger vines in the eastern part of the vineyard.
· Cabernet Franc
· Petit Verdot – Fully ¾ of the vineyard is devoted to the production of the three Bordeaux varieties
· Syrah – first planted in 1978
· Sauvignon Blanc – both Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Musque planted on the eastern side of the property
· Viognier – Initially planted for co-fermentation with the Syrah; in some years there is enough product to make a varietal wine.
Vines average 25 years of age and are farmed according to biodynamic principles. The estate uses its own herbs and preparations from the vineyard.
Transition Winemaking
With the purchase of Eisele Vineyard, Artemis Domaines gained responsibility for harvesting and production of the 2013 vintage. They, obviously, were responsible for all aspects of the 2014 vintage. We will first examine the production parameters to determine any changes between these two vintages. This assessment will also allow us to get a full inventory of the wines produced by the estate.
With the purchase of Eisele Vineyard, Artemis Domaines gained responsibility for harvesting and production of the 2013 vintage. They, obviously, were responsible for all aspects of the 2014 vintage. We will first examine the production parameters to determine any changes between these two vintages. This assessment will also allow us to get a full inventory of the wines produced by the estate.
Cabernet Sauvignon Estate – In both 2012 and 2013 the wines were made with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon fruit. The winemaking schema employed included: vigilant sorting; slow fermentation with gentle extraction; and barrel-aging with a careful choice of toasts and origins tailored to each vineyard block.
Altagracia – The Altagracia exhibited significant changes in its varietal composition between 2012 and 2014 with the Cabernet Sauvignon percentage increasing and Merlot and Malbec losing their place in the blend. Cabernet Sauvignon went from 71% in 2012 to 81% in 2014 while both Merlot and Malbec went from 6% and 4%, respectively, in 2012 to zero in 2014. The winemaking schema was the same as for the estate Cabernet Sauvignon.
Sauvignon Blanc – The Sauvignon Blanc is generally a blend of Sauvignon blanc (lean, gravelly structure) and Sauvignon musque (slightly exotic flavors). In 2013 this wine was made from 100% Sauvignon blanc while the 2014 and 2015 versions had 68% and 78%, respectively. In 2012 the mix was 75% musque and 25% blanc. It appears as though Eisele Vineyard tried a 100% Sauvignon Blanc in their first year and then thought better of it subsequently.
Beginning with the 2013 vintage this wine was subjected to extended elevage on lees with fermentation and elevage in a combination of stainless steel, French oak, and cement egg. In 2015 the fermentation percentage distribution was: concrete egg, 20%; used oak, 42%; stainless steel, 18%; and new oak, 20%.
Syrah – The Syrah is whole-cluster-fermented in small tanks and aged for 21 months in 50% new French oak. The wine had 1% Viognier in 2012 but was 100% Syrah in 2013.
Viognier– These grapes are whole-cluster-pressed and fermented with native yeasts. The wine is aged sur lie with batonnage in 50% stainless steel and 50% used oak.
Tasting the Wines of Eisele Vineyard
The following notes are curated from a series of tastings in which I participated and have been reshuffled for temporal consistency. The tastings include: post-estate-visit tasting; Antoine Donnedieu de Sabres, Eisele Vineyard Estate Manager, Luma tasting hosted by Wine on the Way; a Wine Barn Best Cabernet Sauvignon tasting; 2014 DWCC BYOB in Montreux, Switzerland; a Breakthru Beverage Tasting at Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse in Orlando; and various and sundry lunches and dinners with Ron, Bev, and Parlo.
The 2015 Eisele Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc was reminiscent of a Semillon on the nose. Creaminess, lime, and a burnt character on the palate. Persistence, with a cupric finish which morphed into stainless steel. Ranks among the best Sauvignon Blancs in the Valley.
2013 Eisele Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc -- A beautiful wine. Citrus, goosberry, herbs, and tropical notes on the nose. Bright but balanced on the palate. Mineral. Long, limey finish.
2012 Araujo Altagracia Proprietary Red -- This wine had been opened two hours prior to the tasting and double-decanted. It exhibited chocolate, toast and red fruit on the nose with a savory herb note and oak on the palate and finish.
2013 Eisele Vineyard Altagracia Proprietary Red -- This wine had also been opened 2 hours prior and showed marked differences from the 2012. It showed as more elegant, was less weighty on the palate, and was mineral, lean, and focused.
Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 -- Andrew MacNamara MS pulled this out of his hat as the surprise wine of the night. Way too early. Powerful primary dark fruit and structure aplenty but it gives warning of a fulfilling future.
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| Andrew MacNamara holding court while holding the 2014 close |
There were marked differences between the Eisele Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 and 2013 tasted at the estate. The sense of increased elegance and a fine-boned character evident in the 2013 Altagracia was also present in the comparative tasting of the Estate Cabernet Sauvignons. Ron felt that you noticed more of the oak, riper fruit, and a California style in the 2012 whereas, in the 2013, the fruit is pure and clean, with no noticeable oak. The great structure and balance of the 2013 reminded him of a First Growth Bordeaux.The year 2013 was an exceptional vintage in Napa but I have no doubt that the new aging regime contributed to some of the differences that I observed between the two vintages and, in so doing, made a great wine even better.
2011 Araujo "Eisele Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon -- Complex and powerful while still retaining its elegance. Blackberries, raspberries, graphite, baking spices, mint, licorice, and chocolate on the nose. Rich and deep on the palate with ripe cherries and graphite evident. Full-bodied with a long, deep finish.
Araujo Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 -- This is a mighty fine wine, exhibiting layered complexity both on the nose and palate. Dark cherry, violets, earth, baking spices, dark chocolate and eucalyptus on the nose. Smooth on the palate with dark and red fruit notes, chocolate, and baking spices. Full-bodied and balanced, with well-integrated tannins. Lengthy finish.
Araujo Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 -- Blackberries, blueberries, and currants on the nose along with licorice, eucalyptus, earth and cedar. Restrained and balanced. Silky tannins and long tarry finish.
Araujo Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 -- Dark red and black fruit on the nose along with forest floor, chocolate, licorice, tobacco, eucalyptus, and baking spices. Complex on the palate with the fruit following through. Rich mouthfeel but balanced. Silky tannins. Long finish.
Araujo Estate Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 -- Great California wine. Was the consensus number one wine of a tough California night including 1994 Dominus. Unlike the 1991 Dominus, you know that this is a New World wine from California. Medium-bodied in an opulent style with good balance and length. Showing notes of blackberry, creme de cassis, forest floor, graphite, licorice, and violets (Ron's notes).
Araujo Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 -- Powerful. Blackfruits, licorice, spice, cocoa on the nose. Dense and full-bodied with silky tannins and a long finish.
Araujo Estate Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 -- Not the greatest Napa vintage ever. Not as fruit prominent as some of the other wines tasted. Earth, leather, tobacco, red fruit on the nose. Integrated tannins. Medium length.
Araujo Estate Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 -- This was supposed to be a great year in Napa but some of the wines have not held up well. Red and black fruit on the nose with licorice, eucalyptus, earth, and smoke. Black and red fruit on the palate along with dried herbs and earth. Fine tannins. Long, elegant finish.
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As Sonia kept pointing out during our vineyard visit, Artemis Domaines purchased an iconic estate at the top of its game and with a strong and loyal customer base. As in any acquisition of this type, the operating principle is "do no harm." That is, do not give the customer base any cause for concern. The challenge for Artemis was to establish an identity separate from the Araujos without giving the impression they were changing the core product (which was a very high-value product to begin with).
The strategy chosen was to elevate the vineyard name above all else. This goal was accomplished over a three-year period of "gentle, subtle changes." The result is shown in the photo below. The 1991 label shows the vineyard name in the center and the estate name in the bottom right. Both of these textual components are of similar size. The 2013 label has no estate name and the vineyard name is featured prominently, with a font size larger than on the 1991 label.
The strategy chosen was to elevate the vineyard name above all else. This goal was accomplished over a three-year period of "gentle, subtle changes." The result is shown in the photo below. The 1991 label shows the vineyard name in the center and the estate name in the bottom right. Both of these textual components are of similar size. The 2013 label has no estate name and the vineyard name is featured prominently, with a font size larger than on the 1991 label.
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