"The Barolos of Giacomo Conterno are among the most beautiful wines in the world: gorgeously pure and packed with flavors that feel almost three dimensional" -- Eric Asimov, New York Times.
"The estate is most renowned for the great Barolos Cascina Francia and Monfortino Reserve. The latter ... is regarded as one of the finest Barolos produced today and by many as the finest wine made from Nebbiolo in the world" -- Berry Bros & Rudd.
Ron, Bev, Parlo, and I visited with Roberto at the estate in 2017. In this post I revisit the learnings from that trip and remark on selected vintages of Monfortino that I have tasted through the years.
"The estate is most renowned for the great Barolos Cascina Francia and Monfortino Reserve. The latter ... is regarded as one of the finest Barolos produced today and by many as the finest wine made from Nebbiolo in the world" -- Berry Bros & Rudd.
Ron, Bev, Parlo, and I visited with Roberto at the estate in 2017. In this post I revisit the learnings from that trip and remark on selected vintages of Monfortino that I have tasted through the years.
Prior to World War I, Barolo was made to be drunk early and was sold in casks and demijohns. Giovanni Conterno purchased high-quality fruit from Serralunga d'Alba growers and made wine to be sold in his restaurant and to the general public. After son Giacomo returned from the war, he worked with his father to make an untraditional Barolo, one with significant aging potential. The formula that they hit upon -- extending the maceration time and aging in large wooden botti -- met early success and continues as the foundation of "the finest wine made from Nebbiolo in the world." The history of the estate from those early days on is captured in the chart below.
The fruit for the estate's flagship Monfortino is sourced from the 14-ha Serralunga d'Alba cru Francia; as is the case for the Barolo Francia (previously Cascina Francia). Five of the crus hectares are planted to Barbera with the remainder Nebbiolo. Both a Barolo (2 ha) and a Barbera (1 ha) are produced from Cerretta fruit. The recently purchased Arione vineyard (6 ha) has just been replanted with Nebbiolo. According to Roberto, all three crus have limestone soils and similar climates. The details of the fruit sources are shown below.
Monfortino is made from the best grapes in the greatest year and that search begins in the vineyard with selection and vinification of "proto-Monfortino" and Francia wines. The proto-Monfortino wines are subjected to higher fermentation temperatures and longer maceration time (4 to 5 weeks versus 3 to 4 weeks for the Francia) in search of greater structure (They are also aged for three additional years). A decision is made after tasting as to whether there will be a Monfortino that year. According to Roberto, "Francia you drink, Monfortino you chew." He tastes each wine 15 times a year and would have tasted the wines 40 to 50 times before making a decision. If the decision is made to not produce a Monfortino, the proto-Monfortino is plowed back into that year's Francia.
In terms of an overall winemaking process, everything is destemmed and the grapes vinified by plots. Fermentation is conducted in wooden conical oak vats (They had started out with wood, then switched to stainless steel. Twenty years ago they began using wood again.). He loves wood for fermentation because the thick staves keep the temperature well and, in his view, allow better polymerization.
Today they work with selected yeasts from their vineyard, determined after a lengthy research process. They are currently using two strains for Nebbiolo and three for Barbera.
All wines are aged in botti: 55-year-old Slavonian oak or newer Austrian oak barrels from Franz Stockinger. The Barbera is aged for 2 years, the Barolo for 4 years, and the Monfortino for 7 years. The wines are racked three times in the first year, first to get rid of the gross lees prior to malolactic, and the second and third for clarity. Beyond that, racking is based on taste (combating reduction and tannin).
Steel tanks are used when racking the wines or bottling. In no case is the wine held for more than 1 day in steel tanks.
Tasting Selected Vintages of Monfortino
Below I revisit some of the Monfortino vintages which I have had the pleasure of tasting, beginning with the youngest and working backwards. Most of these wines were tasted alongside my buddy Ron Siegel and, in a number of cases, his tasting notes are used (and noted as such).
2008 Monfortino -- Killing a baby. Showing power and finesse. Structured and elegant style that will need a lot more time (Ron's notes).
2002 and 2006 Monfortino -- Popped and poured the 2002. Should have given it more of a decant. Huge structure. Showing great power and length with lots of cherry, licorice, dried herbs, leather, tar, and rose petals. Second tasting, also popped and poured (thats what we do). Still structured, with a perfumed nose of dark fruits, menthol, tar, licorice, and tobacco (Ron's notes).
The 2006 was a beautiful vintage that was all about power and finesse. Showing great balance and structure. Notes of dark fruits, balsamic, licorice, tar, and rose petal (Ron's notes).
2000 and 2001 Monfortino -- The 2000 is aromatic with notes of violets and red cherries. Traditional Barolo notes of tar, licorice, spice, and balsamic are also evident. Concentrated. Balanced. Lengthy finish.
The 2001 shows classic Barolo notes of rose petals, tar, mint, and licorice accompanying cherry, cedar, spice and balsamic aromas. Concentrated, full-bodied, and balanced with silky tannins. Long finish.
1995 and 1999 Monfortino -- Roses, dark cherries, tar, herbs, and spices on the nose of the 1995. Dark fruit, minerality, and spice, along with a brisk acidity, on the palate. Lengthy finish.
The 1999 was licorice-forward with accompanying notes of black cherry, roses, tar, mint, earth, and blackpepper. Dark red and black fruit and balsamic flavors on the palate. Balanced, with integrated tannins.
1998 Monfortino -- Intense licorice along with tar, roses, dark berries, tobacco, mint, and spice. Sour cherry flavor on the palate. Concentrated and full-bodied. Integrated tannins and a full, long finish.
1982 Monfortino -- Dried red fruits, sour cherry, balsamic, rose petal, camphor, and saddle leather. Very sweet on the palate and coats the tongue with polished tannins. Nice acidity. Very nice vintage for Monfortino (Ron's notes).
1937 Conterno Barolo Riserva -- Tasted January, 2017. One of the most interesting aromatics that I have experienced this year. Notes of balsamic, pine tar, leather, orange peel, sweet brown fruits, and baking spices. Amazing complexity on the palate along with good acidity (Ron's notes).
Arguably the best wine coming out of Piedmont, Monfortino rewards patience.
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