One of the new wineries pushing Armenia into the broader wine world is Karas Winery of the wine branch of Tierras de Armenia CJSC, an entity owned by Argentinian-Armenian entrepreneur Eduardo Eurnekian. The Director of Operations at Karas is Juliana Del Aguila, Eurnekian's niece. The family has been making wine in Patagonia for over a decade.
Karas Winery owns over 400 ha of vineyards in Armavir, one of the most well-regarded of the Armenia wine regions. Vineyards in this region rest on mineral rich soils at elevations ranging between 800 and 1200 m.
The climate in the vicinity of Karas Winery is dry continental, with rainfall averaging 300 m annually.
The soil is medium-to-heavy, lightly eroded clay formed from basalt. It includes high levels of carbonate and limestone, volcanic tuff, and alluvial stone. It is very rocky and low in organic matter. The latter condition is remedied by the use of natural compost and organic fertilizer.
The Karas vineyards are located at 1000 m and are farmed organically and sustainably. The varieties planted therein are as follows:
| Whites | Reds |
| Chardonnay | Areni |
| Viogner | Khndokhni |
| Kangun | Syrah |
| Malbec | |
| Tannat | |
| Montelpuciano | |
| Petit Verdot | |
| Cabernet Franc | |
| Merlot |
The winemaker is Gabriel Rogel from Argentina. He is ably assisted by the famed Michel Rolland in the role of Consulting Winemaker.
We evaluated two of the wines in the Karas portfolio: the 2018 Karas Areni-Khndoghni and the 2015 Karas Reserve.
The 2018 Karas Areni-Khndoghni is a blend of 40% Areni and 60% Khndoghni, the characteristics of which are included in the chart below.
The grapes are hand-harvested into 20 kg boxes and transported to the winery for table selection. The selected grapes are cold-macerated for 5 days prior to a 25-day alcoholic fermentation. Malolactic fermentation is conducted in tanks.
Green herbs initially, followed by an explosion of fresh fruit. Berry driven with a brown sugar character. Definite tumeric note. Bone dry with juicy sweet fruit on the palate. Low tannin and high acidity. Mineral. According to the estate, the acidity and structure are contributed by the Areni variety while the dark fruit flavors are delivered by the Khndoghni.
The Karas 2015 Reserva is a blend of 40% Montepulciano, 25% Cabernet Franc, 20% Syrah, and 15% Malbec. The grapes are hand-harvested into 20 kg boxes and transported to the winery for table selection. The selected grapes are cold-macerated for 5 days prior to a 20-day alcoholic fermentation. Malolactic fermentation is conducted in tanks after which the wine is aged for 14 months in Armenian* and French oak barrels.
Smoke and chocolate along with roasted bell peppers, an oiliness, cayenne pepper, and sandalwood. Complex and layered. Medium-bodied with high acidity and a bright explosion of fruit. Black olives and tea arrive late. Bitter, creamy finish.
When I initially smelled the Reserva, I immediately said "this is a Michel Rolland wine." It was very expressive on the nose and invited the taster in. The indigenous-variety blend was, comparatively, retiring. It was far less complex than the Reserva and had an unassuming finish. The winemaking team obviously knows how to work the international varieties but are either confronted with less expressive local varieties or are still working to master them. It should be noted that the Areni-Khndoghni had an excellent quality:price ratio.
*Armenian oak barrels impart unique tastes to the wine. The oak is more intense than French oak due to the comparatively lower humidity in its source forests in Nagorno-Karabakh. It is also darker and less porous. It must be properly handled to ensure that tannin levels are controlled. Given its intensity, Armenian oak requires less time to impart its flavors to the wine. It provides intense sweet tones (such as vanilla), spiciness, and a eucalyptus aroma.
©Wine -- Mise en abyme
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