Count me in as a Timorasso (white wine from Piemonte's Colli Tortonesi DOC) believer

The recently revived Timorasso cultivar has been described by Kerin O' Keefe (one of the leading Italian wine experts) as "one of the most exciting wines coming out of Italy right now" and "boasts more depth, body and complexity than many Italian whites." Berry Bros and Rudd, a historical UK wine retailer, tags the wine as "one of the most exciting autochthonous grape varieties to surface in recent years." I have seen these and many other laudatory comments regarding the Timorasso wine so I purchased a bottle of Vigne Marina Coppi Fausto 2011 in order to conduct an independent evaluation.

According to stradacollitortonesi.com, the Timorasso variety is a part of the ampelographic heritage of Liguria, Piemonte, Lombardia, and Emilia Romagna and is assumed to have originated somewhere between Liguria and Piemonte. The characteristics of the variety are shown in the chart below.

In addition to the above, it is known that the variety thrives in poor soils and sites with good ventilation and exposure. It prefers altitudes above 350 m. The thick skin protects it against disease and weather.

The grape was on the verge of extinction in the 1980s when Walter Massa, of Vigneti Massa, encountered a few vines in his vineyard and began experimenting with them. He was so pleased with the initial results that he begun searching out vines in neighboring vineyards. As time went by, neighboring producers noted his success and began producing the wines also. Today there are 20 producers bringing Timorasso wines to market and associated vineyards have grown from 3 ha in 2000 to 150 hectares today.

Timorasso wine is certified for production in the 40 communes around Tortona Hill that comprise the Colli Tortonesi DOC.

Timorasso can be deployed in Colli Tortonesi DOC as follows:

• Bianco -- any proportion; min 10% alcohol
• Bianco from subzone Terra di Libarna -- minimum 60% Timorasso plus OANWG (other authorized nonaromatic white grape); min 11% alcohol
• Varietal Timorasso -- mimimum 95% Timorasso plus OANWG; 12% alcohol; minimum 10 months aging
• Riserva -- 12% alcohol; min 21 months aging
• Spumante from subzone Terra di Libarna -- minimum 60% Timorasso plus OANWG; min 11.5% alcohol; can range from extra brut to extra dry; made via Charmat method.

The wine I selected for my Timorasso exploration was the 2011 Fausto from Vigne Marina Coppi. The winery is shown in the map above as being located in the town of Castellania. Climate in this area is continental, with significant diurnal temperature variation (positive for acidity retention) and very low precipitation.

The vineyards are located in a natural amphitheater halfway up the hillside, protecting the vines from the harsh north winds. The soils underlying the vineyards are lime-rich sedimentary marls with strata of grey-blue Sant'Agata marls that are 30% sand, 50% clay, and 15% lime.

Fruit for this particular wine are drawn from the Gabetto and Montagnina vineyards. These vineyards are trained Guyot at 5000 vines/ha density. The estate is farmed organically and follows integrated pest management principles.

As regards winemaking, the grapes are soft-pressed and then partially cold-strained off the must. After alcoholic fermentation the wine is transferred to steel tanks for 10 months of maturation inclusive of manual battonage. The wine is aged in-cellar for an additional 6 months after bottling.

This was an exceedingly complex wine, showing different facets based on temperature and residence in the glass. I poured a little into the glass before the wine got to optimal drinking temperature and was assailed with notes of turpentine, pine, sweet white fruit, and minerality, all coming at me in waves. On the palate, salinity, hint of rubber, a piney-mentholated character, and a late-arriving hot-pepper/blackpepper finish. A weighty wine.

As the second pouring, after further chilling, sweet pine, honey dew melon, and white flowers on the nose. A palate-coating character which yields to a mineral blackpepper finish. Lime skin acidity, with acidity intensifying with residence in glass. I paired the wine with a hard cheese and it was a good coupling.

Overall, a sweet floral nose wrapped in a herb overcoat. With passage of time, a metallic, cupric note appears on the palate. Settles in as a weighty Carricante. Closest wine that I have had to this character is an aged Benanti Pietra Marina (Not saying that it is a Pietra Marina. Nothing is. Just saying that it brings it to mind).

Excellent wine. I cant wait to examine other producer offerings.

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