An exploration of selected Alto Adige wines

Orlando is a dyed-in-the-wool Napa Cab town but a small number of wine bars, retailers, and wine-services providers (Tim's Wine Market, Digress, Wine Bar George, and Slate Wine & Spirits Academy (SL&SA), for example) from time to time host tasting events aimed at the acid hounds among us. One such recent event was a SL&SA-hosted event titled Explore Alto Adige - Sudtirol Wine Region: Italy's Brightest Gem.

This is the fourth or fifth high-value, no-cost tasting that I am aware of that Jeanne K. Reilly MW has organized for her community of interest. Her modus operandi is to opportunistically engage a visiting winemaker, or other wine-aware personnage, and gaining a commitment from them to present their wines to her group. The "volunteer" in this case was May Matta-Aliah, DWS, CWE, the Alto Adige US Brand Ambassador. May led us in an informative lecture on the region and a tasting of six of its wines. I have previously reported on the region and will thus focus on the tasting in this post.

May Matta-Aliah, DWS, CWE

The wines included in the tasting were as follows (all wines were Alto Adige DOC):

White Wines
1. Nals Margreid Pinot Bianco Sirmian 2014
2. Elena Walch Sauvignon Castel Ringberg 2016
3. Castelfeder Gewürztraminer Vom Lehm 2018

Red Wines
1. Colterenzio Winery Lago di Caldaro 2016
2. Produttori San Michele Appiano Pinot Nero 2015
3. Cantina Andriano Lagrein Rubeno 2015.

White Wines
Nals Margreid Pinot Bianco Sirmian 2014
The current Nals Margreid is the end-product of the Kellerei Nals Cooperative, founded in 1932, and subsequent combinations with Magreid-Entikler (1985) and the remnants of the Schramsberg Coop (2007). The Coop is owned by 138 winegrowers farming a total of 145 ha (359 acres).

The grapes for the wine are grown in the Sirmian area, "... an authentic grand cru area ... within the Terlano sub-region where Italy's best Pinot Bianco are grown." The vines are, on avearge, 13 years old and reside on soils comprised of moraine debris and porphyry bedrock plus gneiss, mica, and marble inclusions. The vineyards are found at elevations ranging between 550 and 680 m.

The Pinot Bianco Sirmian was first produced in 1971. The grapes are fermented in stainless steel tanks after which they undergo malolactic fermentation and 8 months aging in 20 - 30Hl oak barrels.

Notes: A green floral note , sweet white flower, pineapple and pepper spice. On the palate, bright acidity, lemon lime, tartness, minerality. Persistence on palate and lengthy finish. Alcohol burn.

Elena Walch Sauvignon Castel Ringberg 2016
Elena Walch is a leading Alto Adige wine estate farming 60 ha in, among others, top cru vineyards Vigna Castel Ringberg (Caldaro) and Vigna Kastelaz (Tramin). Castel Ringberg, at 20 ha, is Alto Adige's largest cru. Its modestly steep slopes are mostly chalky moraine with loamy and sandy soils.

The Sauvignon is fermented 85% in stainless steel (with extended yeast contact) and 15 % in barrique with assemblage just prior to bottling.

Notes: This wine exhibited a nuanced complexity. Florality, pungency, rust, green papaya, green bark, green herbs. Broad on the palate. Not as bright as the Pinot Bianco. Spicy. long, hot finish.

Castelfeder Gewürztraminer Vons Lehm 2018
Castelfeder is a 60-ha estate located in the middle of South Tyrol's southeast vineyards. The vineyards are planted on medium-heavy clay and loam soils at 300 - 500 m elevation.

Grapes are handpicked and cold-macerated for 12 hours before being gently pressed and fermented in stainless steel. The wine spends 6 months on lees.

Notes: Gewurtz nose. Sweet barley, sweet sop, lychee and lifted aromatics. Light on the attack but weighty on the mid-palate. Slight pricking of effervescence. Juicy. Mineral. Bitterness. Long, hot finish.

Red Wines
Colterenzio Lago di Caldaro 2018
Colterenzio Winery was founded in 1960 when 28 winemakers left the historical Cornarono wines to found a new venture. Today the Coop has 300 winegrowers farming 300 ha at elevatioins ranging between 230 and 650 m. The estate's Schiava vines are planted on hillside vineyards sited on morainal soils mixed with sand and eroded porphyry deposits.

Grapers are gravity-fed from the receiving area to the destemmer-crusher area. Red grapes are destemmed, crushed, and transferred to stainless steel tanks for fermentation. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and four months of refinement in those tanks.

Notes: Floral. Faded rose, strawberry, and sweet red fruit on the nose. A lot more power than indicated by the color. Not a lot going on in terms of flavor complexity. Mineral. Metallic finish.

Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano Pinot Nero 2015
Cantina San Michele was founded in 1907 in the land surrounding the town on the outskirts of Bolzano. A total of 340 families are involved in the cooperative.

The growing area experiences over 2000 hours of sunshine per year and significant diurnal temperature variation enabled by wartm ventilation from the south during the day and fresh breezes from the Mendola Massif during the evening hours.

Soils are moraine debris and limestone gravel at altitudes ranging between 400 and 550 m.

Notes: Darkest of the three red wines. Faded rose, dried herbs, spice, and elegance. Restrained on the attack but intensity increases as the wine makes its way to the back of the palate. Salinity. Thick and creamy. Gentle, late-arriving tannins. Rich, lengthy finish.

Cantina Andriano Lagrein Rubeno 2015
This estate was founded in 1893, the first of its kind in the area. It was absorbed into Cantina Terlano in 2008 but its operation and wines have been kept separate from the larger enterprise.

The estate's 70 ha of vineyards experience cooler growing conditions due to being in the sjadow of Mount Gantkafel and only being exposed to direct sunlight from early morning to mid-afternoon. Soils are eroded sedimentary rock of dolomitic rock and calcareous stone at altitudes ranging between 260 and 340 m.

Lagrein in this area dates back to the 17th century, one of the oldest in the South Tyrol region. The northeast-southeast exposed vineyards sit on red clay soil with gravel and stones at 250 m.

Grapes are handpicked and fermented in stainless steel tanks, then transferred to large oak casks for malolactic fermentation.

Notes: Deep, dark, brooding nose with earth and pruned dark fruit. Weighty, minty and licorice on the palate. Dark fruit with great acidity. lack of mid-palate. Sweet finish. Barkiness. Unfulfilling.

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In general, the white wines were more appealing than the reds, not unexpected in that the region's whites are highly regarded. In the case of the reds, the Pinot Nero was attractive. In general these wines are high in alcohol but the diurnal variability ensures balancing acidity retention.

In terms of pricing, these wines represent good value for money with the highest priced (the Pinot Nero) coming in at $46. The whites average $23. I would purchase the Pinot Nero and any of the whites if the opportunity presented itself.

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