The first of the two events --- Bartolo Mascarello: A Historical Perspective, 1958 - 2010 -- was a tasting dinner held at the 28º - 50º Maddox Street location. The event was scheduled to begin at 6:30 pm and I was one of the first to arrive. Antonio was still opening wines but Jacquesson Cuvée 738 was available and the Head Sommelier, Louis Dufouleurand, poured me a glass. Accompanying the Champagne was a selection of Charcuterie; Crab Salad, Mango Avocado, and Coriander on Crouton; Mozzarella and Cherry Tomato Bruschetta with Fresh Pesto; and Parmesan and Truffle Arancini.
|Crab Salad, Mango Avocado, and Coriander on|
In his opening remarks Antonio mentioned that we would be drinking 18 vintages organized into five flights, each flightwith a theme. All of the wines had been sourced from a single owner so provenanace was assured.
He went on to say that Mascarello is a traditional Piemonte producer that had been producing wine in the region for three generations. The first flight -- themed "ready to drink" -- would clearly exhibit the generational shift from Bartolo Mascarello to his daughter Maria Theresa. In Bartolo's days, Mascarello blended vineyards, fermented the grapes together, and allowed the resulting wine to mature slowly. More recently, the aging time has been shortened, the winery (and the wine) has been cleaner, and they now have the equipment to do proper destemming. Maria Theresa got rid of the old barrels, she procured a modern destemmer, and the grapes are ripening such that it is easier to separate the Nebbiolo stem from the grape.
The two charts following illustrate the viticultural and vinicultural practices of Maria Theresa as she described them in TONG 16.
The flights and themes for the tasting were as follows:
- Flight 1: Ready to Drink (2000, 2003, 2005, 1995)
- Flight 2: Cooler Vintages (1997, 1998, 1999, 2001)
- Flight 3: Classic Vintages (1986, 1989, 1990 1996)
- Flight 4: Four Greatest of Recent Vintages (2004, 2006, 2008, 2010)
- Flight 5: Because We Can (My characterization -- 1986 in Magnum, 1958 in Magnum).
©Wine -- Mise en abyme